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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › century clutch problem
05-22-2016 04:39 PM  17 months agoPost 1
kenb

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cloquet, minnesota carlton

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I have a century 4 head helicopter that keeps going through clutches. I'm using scale blades from aerodyne that weigh 182 grams. Fiberglass blades weigh about 117 grams. I'm thinking that these blades are too heavy for the clutch? Anybody else have this problem?

ken berg

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05-23-2016 01:32 AM  17 months agoPost 2
DCORSAIR

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Selma, Calif.

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Yep, tried the Century 5 blade head, RCA scale blades with the Century plastic clutch bell and fried it, never tried the metal one from Century because of other issues with their scale mechanics besides the clutch, got rid of the mechanics before I could try the metal one. I heard that the metal clutch bell will work better, which one do you have??

D. Lee.....t.Born again.t.....

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05-23-2016 01:52 AM  17 months agoPost 3
co_rotorhead

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Centennial, CO, USA

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I do not have a clutch in any of my scale helicopters, but I have tried the 182g 600mm plastic RC Aerodyne/ScaleModel blades on my helis. In my opinion they're not great. They are very heavy and there have been reports of the blades warping over time at the root due to the weight. Not to mention I found them to not fly very well, either. I initially bought them in hopes they would look more scale than other blades, but ultimately it just wasn't worth it.

It wouldn't surprise me if the problems you're experiencing are a result of the increased weight/drag of these blades. Definitely worth trying a set of lighter FG or CF blades.

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05-23-2016 02:24 AM  17 months agoPost 4
Copter Doctor

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Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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ken, if your head speed is on the low side, the clutch will experience slipping and then heat up resulting in a fried clutch bell, see if a hogher rpm helps. you can tell before bad things happen by feeling the clutch bell after a few mins of hovering, if its warm or hot, its slipping, it should be at (oat) outside air temp under normal conditions. the metal clutch does help a bit too.

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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05-23-2016 02:50 AM  17 months agoPost 5
kenb

rrNovice

cloquet, minnesota carlton

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century clutch

I'm using the plastic one. I tried different speeds and even a different engine, same problem, fried 3 clutches, guess I'm a slow learner. Had good luck with century mechanics till now. I ordered a lighter set of blades to try and a new clutch. The aerodyne blades look pretty scale, but they're very heavy compared to fiberglass ones. Thanks for the interest and info! I'll let you what happens.

ken berg

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05-23-2016 07:11 AM  17 months agoPost 6
oldfart

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Vancouver, Canada

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The plastic clutch bell system found on the basic $200 to $250 dollar mechanics was designed for use with two 550mm blades turning at rotor speeds of 1400 to 1900. That is why their 50 sized helis, like the Falcon SE, Raven, and NX50, used the same clutch and fan, but went to a metal clutch bell. They also used a different primary gear. It changed the gear ratio to one that worked better with the lower engine speeds of the larger 50 sized motors of the day. This helped insure the wings of the clutch would engage the bell with adequate centrifugal force.

At lower head speeds, specially with standard gearing, using heavier heads and/or heads with more drag, will certainly result in slippage that will run the stock plastic bell at much higher temps then they are designed for.

If you use the electric conversion, in this type of installation, then I would recommend using it with the motor pinion engaged directly to the primary gear and not to use the clutch.

Phil

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06-16-2017 02:55 PM  4 months agoPost 7
kenb

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cloquet, minnesota carlton

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hello,
Two other fixes. Lower clearance between clutch shoe and bell to about .002. I have a century 4 blade head and this works great! The other fix by century is to increase the engine rpm sooner, I haven't tried this but, I think it would work. Ken

ken berg

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