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HelicopterFlybarless Rotor Head SystemsFutaba CGY › CGY750 version 2.0 coming!
12-25-2016 03:46 AM  11 months agoPost 161
iyoy

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Bacolod City,​Philippines

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Version 2.0

I'm looking to buy my first CGY750 so I just want to confirm if the version 2 mentioned in this thread is the current version of the gyro. Thanks.

iyoy

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12-25-2016 05:14 AM  11 months agoPost 162
gouki

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philippines

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yes v2.0 is the latest for the gy750

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12-26-2016 12:52 AM  11 months agoPost 163
wjvail

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Meridian,​Mississippi

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OK. A few days have passed and I've had a little time to work on my issue.

For postarity sake.... I was able to tune out my poor aileron rolls with the "Flight Tuning" menu and the "Control Authority Aileron" function. The default value is 40%. With my previous servos I liked the way the helicopter flew with 50%. Apparently my new servos are fast enough and strong enough to cause a problem. Resetting the Control Authority back to the default 40% cured my problem.

Current draw is still very high. I will have to put in a bigger battery if I want to keep flying this setup.

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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12-27-2016 08:33 PM  11 months agoPost 164
nickmaxwell

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Huntsville, AL

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Bill,

Sounds like you already fixed your roll problem in general. CNT Auth most definitely can cause what you describe. I am slightly surprised at 50 it would cause it, but with different blades/helis/servos anything is possible.

As I have mentioned in the past, CNT Auth is how quickly the cyclic reaches/tries to follow stick command, so if the stick command is faster than what the model can actually deliver (do to blade limitations/swash plate throw/etc.) it will oscillate trying to reach that desired rate. That is why when you move the stick slowly, it has no issues.

It COULD be that with the new servos they might need less SWS RATE so that your existing parameters work. I would assume when you put the new servos in, you went back and made sure that the set SWS RATE still produces 9 degrees? Different servos throw differently for certain PWM input, so if you havn't already it would be good to do a base SWASHset set-up again just to make sure everything still measures as it should.

I also think that might be needed as when you say you are feeling like you are pulling too much current, small and fast (maybe not seen by the eye) oscillations and jitters could be going on causing the current consumption.

My glow models usually use about 375-450mAh for a tank of fuel with Futaba HV servos.

Most have found the 2.0 software actually reduces current consumption from previous CGY firmware versions. With the really fine tuned precomps, the gyro is having to correct for error and overshoot less often reducing servo jitter and movement.

Nick

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01-04-2017 10:26 AM  10 months agoPost 165
Chris.C

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Hong Kong

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I have been using F3C mode in V2.0 until today. I switched it over to 3D mode in my Urukay Carbon. So far just did some hover in windy conditions.

Observations:
- seems like 3D mode is more accomodating to stiff head, with everything remains same, I cranked up the ELE head gain to 140, head response to 1, without any wobble,so I guess I will continue to increase the head gain.
BTW, what is the down side of head gain too high?
- the hovering swash seems not level in 3D mode with default head gain at 80,
- cyclic speed was at 140d/s same like before but it gave slower response in 3D mode,
- switched over to 3D mode also reset the rudder speed to default, something like 720d/s

What else I should look at before I switch on the idle up?
My idle up head speed is at 1930rpm.

Thanks,

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01-04-2017 09:11 PM  10 months agoPost 166
nickmaxwell

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Huntsville, AL

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Chris,

Your results make good sense.

There is a pretty big difference between the background (internal calculations) settings of F3C and 3D. 3D mode is a very oscillation free/refined gyro combination.

Heading Hold Gain too high will lead to a possible oscillation on elevator that will damp out after a few oscillations. So if you are seeing a couple fast and small oscillations, that then damp out but also may drift/bounce in the process, that means the Heading Hold gain is too high.

The Head Gain (set by TX) is too high when the model yields a sticky feeling or possibly aggravated oscillation, meaning an oscillation that builds up or is caused by wind/stick input.

For F3C type hovering you want the gains as high as possible, the feeling will not get too stick in hover, mostly you'll only see that during aerobatics.

Regarding the control rates. I am guessing that in F3C mode you were far overshooting 140d/s as F3C mode does not have a constant rate control as 3D mode does (internally in version 1.3/4 the parameter RATE.CST effected this). So in 3D mode it is likely holding 140 degrees per second pretty well, and to make it faster you just need to increase the CYC Rate.

Regarding the tail rotor, yeah it does reset. Simply go into the RUD EXPERT menu and change the degrees per second (d/s) to whatever you feel is best.

Regarding switching to idle up to do aerobatics, if you are using Condition switching toggled by the flight condition switch, just make sure that all your C2 conditions are set properly and what you want. Nothing will be reversed or cause a crash, but naturally if you fly the model in aerobatics with very high gains set for hovering, it will feel pretty bad and likely bobble a lot.

Nick

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01-05-2017 02:23 PM  10 months agoPost 167
wjvail

rrKey Veteran

Meridian,​Mississippi

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Nick... Thank you for your reply. It has taken me a day or two (or week) to write back simply because I haven't been able fly since my last post. A combination of poor weather and an unfortunate fit of work got in the way.

There is an old saying in motorcycles - 90% of all carburetor problems are electrical. In my case, I think I am trying to tune my 750 while still sorting out damper problems. My Tempests have always been fussy about dampers. If damper hardness and head speed isn't just right, they wobble and shimmy.

In most cases I could eliminate the problem very quickly with soft o-ring dampers - a Band Aid fix at best. Now with a FBL head, fast/strong servos and a Futaba 750 controller, I can no longer get by with 60D o-rings. Soft o-ring dampers were OK with my previous servos but not up to the job with upgraded units.

I have changed the dampers to 90D one piece dampers but believe these are now too stiff. I likely have a wobble, but because my servos and controller are of sufficient quality, I'm not seeing it. As you suggested it would explain why my battery consumption is so high.

Please keep the posts coming. Listening to you and Dr Ben speak on the subject is motivating. Knowing there are knowledgeable people out there with real answers makes it easier to get out there and burn some fuel and charge some batteries.

Cheers,

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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01-06-2017 08:28 PM  10 months agoPost 168
nickmaxwell

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Huntsville, AL

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Bill,

Understand. Hopefully once you get the dampening where you like it, then the flight control will start to behave normal.

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01-09-2017 04:13 AM  10 months agoPost 169
Chris.C

rrVeteran

Hong Kong

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Thanks Nick.

At the past weekend, I managed to get 2 Urukay Carbon(mine and my friend's) flying to our liking in 3D mode.

In tuning my friend's Urukay, initially I was not able to tune out the wobble in hovering without reducing the gains to a much lower level than mine. His CGY sensor was sitting on the same aluminum plate with the main gear and motor. Then we decided to move the sensor onto a separate carbon plate behind main mast. It is like magic that all the wobble gone at maximum Tx head gain.

We do use condition switch so we have C2 for aerobatics. We have tuned the CGY to fly great in aerobatics as well but I have a question. On the current set up, what happens if I increase the Expo from existing -30% to -60 or higher, sametime, I increase the control authority?

Chris

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