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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  S-76 Build
09-07-2016 02:49 AM  12 months agoPost 61
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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That is just too freeking cool!!
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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09-07-2016 04:25 AM  12 months agoPost 62
g5sean

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Savannah, GA

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Nice work Andrew! Mechanics coming together nicely and nice step action!

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09-08-2016 12:18 PM  12 months agoPost 63
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Emile - Thanks for the info, I am going to have to look into incorporating a "squat switch" into the gear. I'm thinking maybe some sort of micro switch or something. Anybody have any ideas?

Barry-Thanks I've also thought it would be a cool detail to do but I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to pull it off. I basically tried to copy the mechanism from the full size from what I could gather from photos. The turnbuckles on the outboard struts being adjustable is what made it possible.

Sean - Mechanics are awesome! The positioning of them is going to work out really well with the tail alignment. I added a clutch for the cool spool up effect. Now all I need are some low profile HV servos but my budget isn't ready for that cause the only ones I can find that are suitable are the JRPSMP91T2 that are $180 a piece!

I was hoping to make it to Dalton for a little "show & tell" and to get some pointers but I'm not going to be able to make it this year. I'm really going to miss hanging out with everyone.

Andrew

Thumper

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09-08-2016 12:34 PM  12 months agoPost 64
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Thinking about servos and looking for advice...

How much torque is required for the cyclic servos? I am planning on having a HV system running on 2s lipos and I am just wondering what do I need for a four blade head with 950mm blades on a helicopter that's probably going to weigh around 40lbs? The mechanics require a low profile servo and the ones that were recommended have 300oz(21kg) at 7.4volts. But there are some out there that have 140oz (10gk) at 7.4volts that are significantly less expensive. Don't want to cut corners to save a buck but is all that torque really required?

Andrew

Thumper

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09-08-2016 01:40 PM  12 months agoPost 65
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Servos

JR 8917 HV's all around on my 34...
Check them out...

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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10-14-2016 04:59 PM  11 months agoPost 66
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Stan, I like those servos but I need low profile ones that will fit in my frames.

I found these, MKS HBL 575 SL and decided to order a set to give them a try. They definitely fit and I will be anxious to see how they work. If anyone has any experience with these servos please chime in and let us know what you think...

Thumper

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10-14-2016 09:31 PM  11 months agoPost 67
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Spec's

Hi Andrew,
The specs look good... 233 @ 7.4 and the stab system will like the .06 speed.
Light'm up and let us know how they work... be very critical of the returning to center while your checking...

You should have this baby abouot ready to go!!!!

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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10-15-2016 02:55 PM  11 months agoPost 68
bwellmaker

rrKey Veteran

Long Island

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Andrew,

Good find. I will have to look real hard at those for my 67 if I ever get back to it.

Your bird is looking real nice as well.

B

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10-18-2016 11:05 PM  11 months agoPost 69
Thumper217

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Slidell, LA - USA

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Stan I hope to get them installed into the mechanics this weekend and will let you know how they behave, but it will be awhile before I can really test them in flight

Butch I'm sure you'll get back at it soon. I look forward to more of your posts.

I was thinking about the mechanisms for the steps...Once I get bulkheads, stringers and floors in place they will be very difficult to access. I was not real confident in the plywood "gearbox" so I made these up instead...

It's probably overkill but I had the aluminum angle laying around and I needed the metal work practice. I won't tell you how many times it took me to get the holes for the gears drilled in the correct spot to get a good gear mesh, let's just say I'm glad I had several feet of angle laying around cause I needed most of it to make up these two boxes that are less than 2" long

Thumper

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10-19-2016 12:05 AM  11 months agoPost 70
bwellmaker

rrKey Veteran

Long Island

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Holy Gear Box Bat Man.

That schit is diesel.

Nice job Mang.

B

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10-19-2016 12:36 AM  11 months agoPost 71
g5sean

rrNovice

Savannah, GA

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SCHWIIINNGGG!!! I'll second Butch, nice job Andrew! Like the servos too.

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10-19-2016 01:48 AM  11 months agoPost 72
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Like a Brink's truck, but it sure won't break!!
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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10-23-2016 03:53 PM  11 months agoPost 73
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Well the low profile servos aren't going to work with the PEKA swash that I have. The side frames interfere with the linkage rods.

I could put some longer ball links on the swash but I'm not sure I'll be comfortable with that.

So when all else fails try some servos that you already had on hand and find out that they work perfectly (should have tried that from the beginning)!

I'm using the JR adjustable arms and had to move the balls in from the 17mm position to the 14mm position in order to clear the anti-rotation A-arm collars. This puts the rods at a slight angle but I can live with that. I did make some sleeves for the A-arm shaft to replace the collars so I can move the balls back out to the 17mm position and get the rods to be nearly parallel to the main shaft but I'm not sure I necessarily need too. I will probably get better resolution from the 14mm position at the cost of the angle of the rods. Anybody have any opinions on which might be better?

Thumper

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10-24-2016 03:46 AM  11 months agoPost 74
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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I'd keep them at the 14mm position. You'll never see any issue with the slight angle that the links are at. Just run the servos through all of the collective and cyclic extremes to make sure that they don't bind and you should be good to go. Here's an example for you to see the angles on my MD500 and my Lama. Check out the length of the swash balls on the MD500, the servos were running quite a bit of travel on that set up and she flew butter smooooooth...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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10-24-2016 12:15 PM  11 months agoPost 75
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Thanks Barry, I don't seem to have any binding in either position and so I will stick with the 14mm. The links are shorter than what I am used to dealing with so the angles seem to be more extreme. It all moves smoothly and with the short links the swash will remain in the doghouse with the rotor just above the top of the fuselage.

Andrew

Thumper

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11-23-2016 06:23 PM  10 months agoPost 76
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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I've been working on the front landing gear and landing gear doors. It's taken a lot of work and rework to get it right but I am finally happy with the result. First some pictures of the full size...

Thumper

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11-23-2016 06:33 PM  10 months agoPost 77
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Now here's my version starting with the hinges...

Then the doors themselves...

And here they are installed...

Thumper

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11-23-2016 06:56 PM  10 months agoPost 78
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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11-23-2016 07:12 PM  10 months agoPost 79
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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wonderful work!
will the strut be shock absorbing as well?

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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11-23-2016 08:03 PM  10 months agoPost 80
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Thanks Emile.

The strut does move up and down. Not really shock absorbing because I needed the spring to be weak so it would compress all the way. The reason for that is that the wheel is also steerable (that's what the long bolts on either side of the strut are). When the strut is compressed a pin moves out of a slot so it can turn but when the weight is taken off the strut extends and the pin goes back into the slot centering the wheel so it can retract properly.

Thumper

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