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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › MD500E BUILD QUESTION
10-20-2015 05:24 PM  26 months agoPost 21
trekrider586

rrVeteran

Sylacauga,Al

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Lookin good. Welcome to the heli addiction, if you want to come and fly at our field, just give me a shout. I am working on a 600 size MD 500 and I have a Augusta 119 plus several 3d helis. The guys at our field love to see those scale helis, so bring it on up.

it's better to ask for forgiveness than for permission

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10-20-2015 09:02 PM  26 months agoPost 22
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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Thanks trekrider586, I might take you up on that sometime, however right now I haven't got a current AMA card so having to make do at open fields and yard at the moment.

Got a question about the mounting blocks. Has anyone made one out of a solid piece of hardwood, like oak? I don't think it would be much heaver, if any.

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10-20-2015 09:45 PM  26 months agoPost 23
BAMAGUY

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Alabama

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If I slid the battery down by about an inch the front clears it. I can still get the strap around the top portion of the battery in this possition. Think I'll have any issues with this?

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10-21-2015 03:18 AM  26 months agoPost 24
Krachdumy

rrNovice

Pembroke Pines, FL.

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That's good for scale flying. But, no inverted flying or inverted hovering. Just in case you get a wild itch. Having the battery where you have it should actually help with the center of gravity (CG). The MD500 tends to be tail heavy. Check the CG when you are done. If it's tail heavy you should balance it out with more weight in the front.

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10-21-2015 04:06 AM  26 months agoPost 25
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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Unfortunately I can't post a picture because it was someone else's heli I was repairing and I delivered it to him this past weekend. Krachdumy's solutuion is probably better than mine. What I did was set the mechanics in the fuselage and marked a spot on the inside of the fuselage where the side frames of the mechanics were close on both sides in an area where I could epoxy in some small plywood formers that would almost touch the side frames. I then attached a small wedged shaped piece of stiff foam on either of the side frames with ca to fill the gap and secure the top of the mechanics to keep them from moving side to side. I hope this is a little more clear.

As to the solid piece of hardwood, I would think that it would be significantly heavier than the plywood am I'm not sure why you would want to do that?

Andrew

Thumper

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10-21-2015 04:09 AM  26 months agoPost 26
Thumper217

rrApprentice

Slidell, LA - USA

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I just re read your post and figured out you were talkin about the small blocks that go between the mechanics and the plywood base, duh. I think that would be fine. I have also used hard plastic blocks for this.

Thumper

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10-21-2015 12:22 PM  26 months agoPost 27
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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TAIL SERVO MOUNT- the servo is too big to leave on the boom without making some sort of bracket to have it mounted under boom and centered. Even if I do that, I'm still having to make control rod. Can I use the original mount tray that's in the lower rear of the frame?

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10-21-2015 03:08 PM  26 months agoPost 28
Krachdumy

rrNovice

Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Hi Bamaguy,

Yes, my MD500 is the Trex450 Pro with the tail servo mounted inside the frame. I believe yours is also a Pro. There are several versions of the Trex 450. For example, There's the Sport and Sports v2. If you mount the tail servo inside the frame you will need a longer tail servo rod. There are several online hobby stores that carry them. You will need to measure yours and find one longer by looking at the specs. The length will be listed.

On the larger 600 size we found out the servo needs to be mounted on the top of the boom with the rod going from the front top to the bottom rear. You can try that on the 450. There's a small space in the fuse right behind your flybarless unit. I'm not sure the same will work on the small 450. Either way you will need a longer servo rod.

Your 450 seems to have decent parts. Scorpion motor, KST servos, AR7200, etc. Make sure your heli is flying perfect and your radio is dialed in before you assemble the scale. The fuse is very thin and wont handle crashes well.

Finally, with the servo removed from the boom, the heli will slide in even further. The boom has a hole at the rear. That hole has to clear the fuse. Otherwise you can't mount the tail. You can use a Dremel to sand down the rear a bit. But not much. That hole needs to clear.

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10-21-2015 03:15 PM  26 months agoPost 29
Krachdumy

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Pembroke Pines, FL.

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I sent you a PM with instructions I found.

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10-21-2015 06:46 PM  26 months agoPost 30
Krachdumy

rrNovice

Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Hi Bamaguy,

----------
"I see that he used the stock tray and boom clips in his set up. I've got the Gold n rods in but I'm thinking that this might be the better option."
----------

I'm not sure I follow. The tray as in battery tray. Then yes, the tray you are using will work fine. Use Velcro on the battery and 1 strap on the upper part.

You got me on the Gold n rods. I have no idea what they are. I think the best thing is to mount the servo on the frame. Fully test the tail in flight. Then, assemble the heli. As long as your frame has a servo mount then you are set. If not, then you have to improvise. The tail rod guides (boom clips) are required. You must use them in addition to the foam ring I suggested. The foam ring just makes the fuselage more stable.

If you mount the servo in the frame, then you will require the tail linkage rod part number H45158. You can make it if you have a lathe or the ability, but it's so cheap it's not worth making it.

Good luck...

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10-21-2015 07:16 PM  26 months agoPost 31
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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when I said tray, I ment the servo mount that attaches inside the rear of the frame. It's currently mounted to the boom but won't fit in the fuse so I was asking since I would have to move it and make a boom mount extention of some sort, would it be better to use the Align part that fits into the frame?
The Gold n rods are the plastic housing and inner piece and allows it to flex so it'll mount to the boom along the center.

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10-22-2015 03:31 AM  26 months agoPost 32
Krachdumy

rrNovice

Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Hi Bamaguy,

Your heli should have part number H45031A. It's the tail servo mount for the frame. Your servo should go mounted inside part H45031A. That will remove the servo from the tail boom and allow you the clearance you need.

I agree that it's better to use Align parts when possible. If you need help with finding the right servo or combination some pictures will help. It's good to ID your heli version. I'm seeing 10 different versions of the Trex 450 going as far back as the Trex 450SA.

Good luck..

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10-22-2015 03:54 AM  26 months agoPost 33
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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Heli is a Trex 450 Pro DCF FBL 6s with the following

Scorpion 2221-2010 HKII 6S motor
Caste Creations Edge Lite 50 ESC with governor/logging capability
KST 215 cyclic servos
Futaba S9257 Tail servo
Lynx DFC Arms
Align 3G Carbon Fiber main blades
Aluminum FBL mount
Align 45C 1250 MAH batteries with EC3 connectors

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10-22-2015 06:57 AM  26 months agoPost 34
Krachdumy

rrNovice

Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Perfect. Page 15 of the manual shows you have the tail servo mount H45031A. Your tail servo will fit right in. All you need is the tail linkage rod H45158. No other modification is needed.

Once you move the servo from the boom to the frame, test the heli. Make sure your servo arm is centered with equal throw on both sides and the tail holds well. Then you should be able to finish the built.

Good luck..

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10-22-2015 01:53 PM  26 months agoPost 35
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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One More Option

In my gallery, on page 2, you can see how I took care of a tail servo location..

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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10-22-2015 11:54 PM  26 months agoPost 36
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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Got the servo and linkage rod mounted. The rod was part of the spare parts that I got with the heli. I've got to learn the tail set up. I test hovered it in my yard and as soon as it lifted it started to spin, HH had to be reversed in the RX. I then took it to the park to try it out and got it in a hover and noticed the rotor also needed to be reversed. I was proud that in both cases, I was able to keep my composure and safely land, fix the issues and take right back off again. Starting to get some confidence.
Today I flew around a little to get the feel of the reactions of forward flight. No it wasn't pretty and it wasn't any particular circuit either. It was actually just get it started moving and trying to get it under control without it getting away from me. At any rate I felt good and felt that I accomplished something new today.
I wanted to make sure heli flew good before I took the tail back off but I'm hoping that this setup will work inside the fuse boom. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
The wire is coiled neater than the pic shows.

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10-23-2015 03:32 AM  26 months agoPost 37
Krachdumy

rrNovice

Pembroke Pines, FL.

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Looks great! When "we" lack skills, it's helps that the heli has an excellent setup. There are several videos online that explains the Beastx tail setup. Make sure you aren't binding the tail left or right when you go all the way to either side.

A new AR7210BX will be out soon. It's an upgrade to your AR7200. I heard it has an optional SAFE feature that if you let go the sticks the heli will level off in SAFE mode. It's a worthy upgrade for newer scale pilots.

Speaking of taking it to the park. AMA membership is the way to go. AMA will insure you as a member. That's important. You will benefit by being an AMA member. Sign up now and you are good until 2017.

Good luck with the built and enjoy it!

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10-25-2015 02:15 PM  25 months agoPost 38
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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Ok guys, need some more advice.
For the time being Ill use a throttle curve till I can get a castle link. I've got it set pretty well for sport, upright, flying. Took it out and tested everything.
This morning I put loctite on all screws and got it put in the fuselage just sitting on the blocks. I'm going to make new blocks based on the height of these. The boom isn't centered in the fuselage boom because of the linkage brackets. I've got it as close to center as I can based on the swash linkage. If you look at the pic of the top you'll see that the bracket doesn't sit in the cutout for it which causes the electronics to be forward. However, it sits enough to the rear that the hole in the tail clears and the tail assembly will mount.
Will the tail off center be an issue? I do have the flexable rods that I can revert to if need be. should I redo the linkage with it instead?
Also what is a source for the 2mm x 25mm screws needed for the vertical fin?
Thanks for your help.

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10-25-2015 10:44 PM  25 months agoPost 39
BAMAGUY

rrNovice

Alabama

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Well I didn't hear back from anyone before I gat a chance to work on it some more. I figured I would give it a shot before changing up the linkage.
I made some solid blocks out of some black walnut. Worked better than I figured. I was thinking about how to mount them to the heli frame. At first I thought I would step drill a center hole but after thinking about it for a while, come up with some small angle pieces that fit perfect. Now I've got four anchor points at the corners instead of just the two in the center.
I put some foam around the tail boom and left the slit where the wire comes out, tail works smooth with no binding at all. The foam I used was from a 90 elbow that the big box store had in the plumbing for wrapping pipe and it was less that a dollar. I just cut about an inch off of it and kept trimming the length till it closed up small enough to be a pressed in fit. Works good and the color matched the color of my boom.
I've got to find some 2mm screws to mount the tail fin but wanted to test it out today, spool up and hover at least, to check for vibrations. I trimmed down an old fin to fit behind the canopy boom and it worked.
I checked the CG by making a hook from wire to go around the main rotor linkage, either side of center, and with the battery slid down about an inch, the heli balanced out level.
Is that good or is it better to be pitched forward some?
For maiden I left it level. Hovered through tow batteries and all went well. I really like the look of it in the air and it'll look even better when I get the tail fin mounted.
I'll post a video if I figure out how.

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10-25-2015 11:23 PM  25 months agoPost 40
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Looking good...

I think your machine is looking real nice... sits fine on the skids.. as far as your cg, I like just a pit of nose down... maybe 2-4 degrees, so not very much at all... as far as your tail wire, it sounds like it is working properly after you testing, so I would stay just the way you have it...

I am not sure if I have any 2mm bolts long enough for you.. but I will check in the morning when I get into the shop.. if so, I can drop them in the mail to you.. let me look and then we can get shipping info...
Nice job

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › MD500E BUILD QUESTION
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