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HelicopterMain Discussion › Whats the proper way to setup a Heli using Norm, stunt 1,2 etc.
10-05-2015 03:29 AM  26 months agoPost 1
ssrobzoom

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Tn

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When I started flying Electric Helicopter did not really exist and I learned on Nitro Helis.

I was taught the proper way to setup a Helicopter was something like this:
Norm throttle idle to full with pitch -3 to 100%
Stunt 1 was use throttle 100-60-100, Pitch close to 15 to 80% using a throttle “V” curve on throttle
Stunt 2 was use throttle 100-80-100, Pitch close to 10 to 90% using a throttle “V” curve on throttle

Should this type setup be used on Electrics?

I see some folks not using a normal mode with electrics, with 0 to 100% throttle in Norm, they use Norm with a gov set to 50% or higher with soft start enabled at mid stick.

Starting to fly:
They turn on their radio having the throttle in the mid stick position with zero pitch and then turning on the receiver battery if used. Then hook up the main flight batteries arming the helicopter making it ready to fly. Then walk the helicopter to the starting point at the field, set it down and turn off throttle hold to spool up still with throttle at mid stick.

I would think they have their radio setting something like this:
Normal with throttle 100-50-100, Pitch close to 15 to 80
stunt 1 was use gov 60, Pitch close to 10 to 90%
No “V” curve settings just flat throttle
stunt 1 was use gov 80, Pitch close to 10 to 90%
No “V” curve settings just flat throttle

With going from Heli to Heli and not having a consistency if you fly Nitro and Electrics. Some might get confused as how the Heli setting react on each model.

Also, this seems to me, like a safety issue too.
I’m just trying to understand the safest way of handling the bigger electrics with proper setup.

.

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10-05-2015 03:39 AM  26 months agoPost 2
mr dan

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Stockton Calif

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Some do and some dont. For me I do not use normal mode as typically intended. I use N mode as a 3rd stunt mode . All three modes governed N@2000. ST1 @2150, ST2@2250 for example. I do use TH and release when ready to spool up. Its become a habbit and Ive never had a mishap using it this way.

"R.I.P Roman" Citizen 0094 in the Nation

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10-05-2015 04:24 AM  26 months agoPost 3
ssrobzoom

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Tn

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Mr Dan

Do u fly both electric and nitro?

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10-05-2015 05:42 AM  26 months agoPost 4
mr dan

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Stockton Calif

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No. Just electric. Funny thing is with regards to throttle curves, I run spartan Vortex units on my helis, and use the egov rather than the castle govenor. Castle requires you as a user to set each mode you set using a flat curve for each desired headspeed starting from mode (N) 30% flat , then st1 65% then st2 100% flat, where Spartan vortex govenor requires the curves within the radio to have a "V" curve as you with a nitro.

"R.I.P Roman" Citizen 0094 in the Nation

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10-05-2015 06:11 AM  26 months agoPost 5
AWittleWabbit

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O.C., CA

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I wouldn't get too caught up in the %s in the radio. For anything but the throttle it's still good practice to use as much as the throw as reasonably possible. So I wouldn't think in terms of %.

The governor complicates the discussion so I'll leave it out for now. I flew glow first so I believe I get where you're coming from. I flew my 450 non-governed for a long time. The lack of soft start really necessitated the use of a shallow TT curve in normal to get it going. Once going, the straight v curves in idle up were usually good enough.

With a good (YGE/Kontronic) soft start, the spool up is smoother than I have the patience for. For a traditional radio flying an E Heli with SS/gov, I used a TC something like 0 75 75 75. I let the SS/gov do the finessing. Having transitioned from glow and having my share of hot starts, It just seemed natural to do so. I like that I have to move the thr/coll to get anything spinning. For the extra safe, toggling Thold while walking out to the line is an extra bit of security too. Not to mention slamming the T/coll to the rekit position turned off the motor.

I recently switched to the Mikado V control. I don't know super well yet and haven't tried a glow ship on it yet. To get things spinning, I have to hit 2 toggle switches. It took getting used to! But I do like that I have to do 2 things before things spin.

I think with any Heli big or small, it's important to have two things (maybe more?) to deliberately do before things start spinning. And of course, a quick way of shutting it down like Th hold. Just my 2 cents.

Heli-itis sufferer.

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10-05-2015 12:07 PM  26 months agoPost 6
TheMainShaft

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Southlake, TX - USA

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Safety at startup for electrics

Why don't the FBL controller manufactures borrow an idea from the drones and have a stick gesture sequence (like both sticks in the corner for 3 sec) to initialize? I think this would be much safer.

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10-05-2015 03:33 PM  26 months agoPost 7
jbiter

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Sebring, FL

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The only electric I have is a 450 with a Jazz controller so my normal TC starts at zero like rabbits.

I personally like to set up normal pitch curves with -3 to 10 because it makes small collective adjustments while doing hovering maneuvers easier. I am definitely in a minority in this thinking now days.

If what you are doing works for you, I wouldn't change it.

Jeff

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10-05-2015 06:22 PM  26 months agoPost 8
Noble_Drow

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Mishawaka IN USA

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I personally don't run a normal mode on my helis. Depending on how many flight modes you have. I run my "normal mode" flat 65% th, I start up in this mode. Then s1 is flat 80%, s2 flat 95%. Then my pitch values on all are 0-100%. This makes it easier for me even while landing. Also no matter what Id recommend at least 15% Expo on ele, Aile, and rudder. Hope you find this helpful.

Blade 450x modified, 180cfx, mcpx bl, trex 450 pro v2 clone, dx6i, phoenix sim

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10-05-2015 07:04 PM  26 months agoPost 9
ICUR1-2

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Ottawa, Ontario

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I still set up my electrics like my nitro. since going FBL and using governor mode. I haven't used throttle curves in years.
I still use normal mode and keep it linear

anything larger than a 500 I would use a separate battery for the rx, so I can arm it first.

same for bench testing I use a separate power supply for the rx regardless of size

spending time, paying attention

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10-05-2015 08:26 PM  26 months agoPost 10
ZS-JAF

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Houston, TX

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Seems like there is no official way. Do what is easy and safest for you. I am only an electric user. I have pitch on all curves liner 100/-100 and flight modes equal 3 different throttle curves. I just flick off throttle hold to spool up and hit it to land/auto. I went this route to avoid ever flipping inverted and going to idle power. I also triple check my esc, to make sure they will not arm until zero throttle is given.

I have a 3D heli, I don't understand why it doesn't do 3D

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10-06-2015 02:35 AM  26 months agoPost 11
bigdog714

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Rochester, MN U.S.A.

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Dito!

I have flown both, 84 helis so far.......but that's a different issue! LOL.

I fly Castle in gov mode, with Flatt line throttle settings, 30%, 70%, 100%. Hold setting at 0%, and I always add two clicks to the end points when calibrating the ESC, just for pot drift. Even in gov mode you can use a throttle curve for normal mode so you feel more in control on spool up, especially with a first spool up.

Head speeds usually vary 150-200 rpm for each step from Normal to Idle 2 depending on the size of the heli.

My pitch curves are all 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%,100%, full control all the time.

All fun all the time!

MD 800
Logo 600SE
Logo 14/500 Carbon
Ballistic 700
HD 500V2
Hirobo 50E
Avant 90E

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10-06-2015 03:10 AM  26 months agoPost 12
pctomlin

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Texas

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Similar to ZS-JAF and Bigdog, all electric and switch off throttle hold to spool up. Also set throttle cut to another switch as a safety. Have to have both switches off to spool up, no accidents bumping throttle hold off while carrying the heli and transmitter to the flightline.

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10-06-2015 05:08 AM  26 months agoPost 13
Noble_Drow

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Mishawaka IN USA

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I think the unspoken bottem line with all "idle up settings" is you don't have to mentally switch from a 0° mid stick mentality. Which provides an increased practice of collective control. If you can land under any idle up you are on the right path...

Blade 450x modified, 180cfx, mcpx bl, trex 450 pro v2 clone, dx6i, phoenix sim

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10-06-2015 05:32 AM  26 months agoPost 14
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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New to Electric also

I asked KDE a question about setting up my motor (X700XF-535-G3) with my JIVE PRO 120+ and here was the response:
For the setup, the motor is directly compatible with the JIVE PRO 120+, so the good news is - it’s relatively plug-and-play.
Simply follow the instructions for the JIVE, program to MODE 4 (helicopter governor mode), set the throttle in your radio to a flat-line 80% (80-80-80-80-80) for the idle-up, and you’re there.

The Auto-Timing algorithm works flawless with the KDE Direct XF motors, so no need to change to a fixed-timing or any concerns.
Can someone explain what this means coming from flying nitro's... do I have to use a switch to get the motor to turn or can I increase the throttle like on a nitro and slowly (or however fast I want) increase the stick to get more power from 0-50% stick?

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10-06-2015 05:39 AM  26 months agoPost 15
Noble_Drow

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Mishawaka IN USA

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A flat th curve meant the motor has, ex. 80% power at all stick positions. With electric you don't have to worry about over reving at 0 pitch like you may on a nitro. A flat curve for electric provides little to no bog on off 0 pitch changes. Mid stick should be 0° pitch for all idle up modes. So in example a tictock should have no bog on the motor unless your going to extreme values which you'll hear the blades before bog...

Blade 450x modified, 180cfx, mcpx bl, trex 450 pro v2 clone, dx6i, phoenix sim

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10-06-2015 05:43 AM  26 months agoPost 16
Noble_Drow

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Mishawaka IN USA

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And yes it is proper to have to turn on your TX, then apply th hold prior to powering the esc. Must have the stick mid pitch or less and release th hold. The motor will now start up. After flight simply apply th hold again to stop the motor and blades.

Blade 450x modified, 180cfx, mcpx bl, trex 450 pro v2 clone, dx6i, phoenix sim

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10-06-2015 05:48 AM  26 months agoPost 17
Noble_Drow

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Mishawaka IN USA

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Basically, setting up without a normal setting is like flying and auto rotating a landing then jumping directly back into idle up for full flight again. You don't want positive pitch at motor start up or your heli may jump, 0 or negative will keep you planted. I personally use just under mid stick at start up.

Blade 450x modified, 180cfx, mcpx bl, trex 450 pro v2 clone, dx6i, phoenix sim

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