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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Check my idle setting
04-06-2015 11:42 PM  3 years agoPost 1
don s

rrElite Veteran

Chesapeake, VA

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To keep my engine from loading up at idle, I have the cam screw slot turned halfway between horizontal to ground and full lean.

I have read before that the idle screw slot should be basically parallel to the ground once the engine is tuned.

Is this an indicator that I need to further lean the top end?

EDIT: OS 55HZ

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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04-07-2015 12:45 AM  3 years agoPost 2
wjvail

rrKey Veteran

Meridian, Mississippi

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cam screw slot
Chopper Dave - What engine are you holding?

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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04-07-2015 12:47 AM  3 years agoPost 3
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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Oh yeah, OS 55HZ. Must have gotten dropped during my edits...

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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04-07-2015 12:53 AM  3 years agoPost 4
wjvail

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Meridian, Mississippi

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Oh yeah, OS 55HZ.
Knowing the above I have to ask, do you really fight crime at night?!?! - as a werewolf?!?!

Watch at YouTube

Also, is it a -R motor? Is this engine an OS DRS engine?

Bill

"Well, Nothing bad can happen now."

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04-07-2015 12:58 AM  3 years agoPost 5
don s

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Chesapeake, VA

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No regulator, not yet anyway.

The rest of the story, Power Boost muffler, RR 15%, Enya #4 plug.

That crime fighter stuff is classified...

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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04-08-2015 03:52 PM  3 years agoPost 6
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Tune the top end and recheck the idle.

The idle on my OS105 is fully rich!

If it starts easy enough, doesn't get hot at idle, comes down to idle straight away when flicking hold after a hard flight and doesn't just die when pinching the fuel line you can go leaner.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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04-11-2015 03:01 PM  3 years agoPost 7
datidun

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N Ireland

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Post a picture will compare it to mine.

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06-15-2015 02:06 AM  35 months agoPost 8
Arclight338

rrNovice

New Jesey, United States of America

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the physical orientation of the screw is meaningless.Richardmid1 is spot on. As soon as the engine starts spooling the head the hover needle is whats fueling the engine.

If it starts easily and idles without alot of throttle trim-you are close.Good Luck!

Goblin 700,Align: Trex: 250,500,600E,700N Pro,Blitz Avro 90,Outrage 50V2

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06-15-2015 05:43 PM  35 months agoPost 9
datidun

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N Ireland

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Spot on with what,did you do what he mentioned.

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06-15-2015 07:00 PM  35 months agoPost 10
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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If you have good transition from idle to hover without loading or cutting out, the needles are fine.

The situation you are talking about, where the high is lean and the low is rich, would have a tendency to cut out on acceleration from idle to liftoff.

So long as you aren't getting that, don't worry.

FWIW there are VERY few times where it's appropriate to adjust the high based on what's going on at idle. You normally adjust the high for good high operation and leave it there. Then adjust the mid for hover and the low for transition.

Guys who tune the low for a tickover idle without consideration to transition usually have bad transition, depending on the carb. You can live with a slightly rough idle but few can live with an engine that coughs and sputters or cuts out. Usually a tad rich is better, rich but just lean enough to rid the transition of hesitations.

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06-15-2015 07:57 PM  35 months agoPost 11
don s

rrElite Veteran

Chesapeake, VA

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What had happened was....

I converted from a belt to torque tube. After the switch I couldn't idle without the blades turning (slowly). What I didn't know was that the belt edge was rubbing on the main gear acting like a brake.

I have an HZ-R conversion on the way, and will have to redo the tuning anyway.

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Check my idle setting
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