RunRyder RC
 2  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 1 page 1337 views POST REPLY
HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Installing Chip style (SMD) LED lights????
04-06-2015 04:46 PM  3 years agoPost 1
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I just purchased a DELight starter kit and it comes with the chip style LED lights in place of the more traditional T-1 or T-1/34 (5mm) round LEDs. Since I've never mounted lights like this before, I'm wondering the best way to do it since these won't slide into a per-mounted round lens. And places you want to add lights, what kind of lenses are used and again, how are the LED's attached?

Thanks! Mark

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 04:24 AM  3 years agoPost 2
flyawayed

rrVeteran

orlando , fl .USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Installing the Delite system is alittle tricky but not hard. For me that a great lighting system to use cause u can program ur own type of strobe or beacon setup u want and not have to go qith the stock programming. As for lens I like to use fiber optic wand to make my lens cause it magnify the light output when their on and with leds they are directional. Where the fiber optic wand make the light shine 360° when lit. So much better lighting then just putting little pastic covers over then. Here are 3 of my scale birds using the Delite systems and all three have different strobe and beacon flash patterns that isnt the stock patten that Delite installed in the controller when u
Recieve it as a kit. I had made file to match the same flash patterns of the full scale of each of my builds

edward lopez sanchez

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 05:56 AM  3 years agoPost 3
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Thanks for the pic's and the suggestion Ed. But it still does seem like a lot of work and in some cases, the SMD LED's and the Fiber optic wands may not fit in the space that is available. I think I may go with standard 5mm flat top LED's with standard lenses. These type of LED's have a wider angle of view (180 degrees) then the standard round head.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 01:48 PM  3 years agoPost 4
flyawayed

rrVeteran

orlando , fl .USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

How about showing some of the spots ur trying to install the leds

edward lopez sanchez

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 03:20 PM  3 years agoPost 5
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Locations
Here are a few. I marked the locations with black circles. On the Vertol rear mask, I have just enough room for the wires of the LED's because the mechanics, swashplate, and linkage are pretty much up against the fuse. And I have the same issue on the 500E...the mechanics are very close to the top of the fuse so there really is only room for the wiring. Mark

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 06:57 PM  3 years agoPost 6
flyawayed

rrVeteran

orlando , fl .USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Hey mark ive done Delite on same type od fuse. For the seaknight and the hughs the trick with them is drill the hole using a 3mm drill bit then after drilling use a square sanding file to make the square opening foe the smd led to stick thru and the either hot glue or CA the led board from underneath so the only thing u will see is the smd led sitting flush with the fuse. Then u can add what ever cover over the led so when lit the cover Will illuminate.

edward lopez sanchez

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 07:28 PM  3 years agoPost 7
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Oh sure....that may have worked BEFORE I used and mounted the current lenses and LED's....lol But that's why I asked the question to start with on how to "retrofit" to the new SMD LED's to a setup that used 3mm or 5mm. Also, I don't think just mounting a lens to the surface of a fuse will hold very long....especially if it's a nitro machine with the vibration. I would feel more conformable being able to have the lens go through the fuse and attach from underneath in some fashion.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 07:58 PM  3 years agoPost 8
flyawayed

rrVeteran

orlando , fl .USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

No they work fine in nitro scale birds my bell 412 started as a nitro rappy50 with well over 400 flights on it before I converted to electric two months ago and I have had the Delite system in it since day one amd I havnt one fiber optic lens come off or lose any of my Delite leds these two pics show how the leds look installed from the underside and just ad a lens after, and remember this yellow 412 is 5 years old and still kicking strong and my lights still as bright as the first time I put them in.


RC Rescue Helicopter:

Watch at YouTube

edward lopez sanchez

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 09:03 PM  3 years agoPost 9
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Nice machine and thanks for the pic's! I'm going to do a little experimenting tonight and see what I can figure out. I'm also concern since I'm doing a retrofit if I will get any light "bleed through" the fuse but won't know till I try. I do like how you mounted the one in the tail. Does anybody know where these SMD LED's can be purchased from other then DELight....such as Digikey or Mouser....etc. I haven't really looked yet since I wasn't sure if I was going to use these or standard LED's. But I do really like to programablity of the DELight controller and for only $30, you can't beat it.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-07-2015 09:53 PM  3 years agoPost 10
flyawayed

rrVeteran

orlando , fl .USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Yeah I agree about the controller. If u already have leds installed just carefully pull them out and install from inside out. And hot glue the led in place. As for the leds DE makea them inhouse ao im not sure where there getting the leds from but ive been lookimg for more SMD leds but most of them I found are not a true 1 watt, and still run on 5-7volts resistant. Others ive seen that were 1watt rated needed 12 volts. Now do u have a strobes or beacon patterns that ur looking for? What I mean by that is number of flashes with strobes and want them to flash parallel or alternating, and if a beacon is on/off or ramp up like a rotating beacon. And then there is landing light and work lights how u want them to come on by switching, or by throttle curve?

edward lopez sanchez

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-08-2015 01:44 PM  3 years agoPost 11
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Well I did some experimenting and playing around with the DELight SMD LED's last night on a few of my machines and Ed, you were right! They are pretty easy to fit and I think in most cases, they will work in place of the standard 5mm LED's. On my Vertol, I made my own sockets/mounts as you can see in the pic's. These were made to fit a 5mm round LED. So after I removed the old LED, the SMD one fits the hole perfectly and all I would have to do is use some ZAP-DAPA-DOO to hold it in place....just as Ed said. But I think I may cut a notch in the edge of my mounts just so the board will fit flush and be a little bit more secure.

I also found out something else a little interesting....and it could be just my eyes cause I'm getting old...lol....but I think the White LED's are brighter then the red or green so I thought if I would use the White ones with my red and green lenses, it would make for a brighter light....But....it appears to me not to be the case and in fact, the white LED's seem to "wash-out" the color when used with the red and the green lenses. So I think it looks better and just as bright using the red LED's with the red lenses and same for the green.

Mark

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-08-2015 02:50 PM  3 years agoPost 12
flyawayed

rrVeteran

orlando , fl .USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

In glad that it work out for u. But 1 question when u hookup the red and green witch ports did u connect them in? For the red and green need to be on ports 7-8, because those are the ports with the highest out, up to 2 watts in those two ports. The first 4 is alittle less then 1 watt ,but those ports are for the strobes and beacons. 5-6 are at 1 watt ,and those would be ur landing light, and or work light. But the brightest light output is from port 7-8.

edward lopez sanchez

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
04-08-2015 03:01 PM  3 years agoPost 13
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ahhhh....good point Ed! I was just using port 1 because it was set for flashing. I didn't even think about trying any of the other ports.
Thanks Ed!

Ps. Ed, can you send me one of your program files that you have set for a strobe and rotating beacon?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 1 page 1337 views POST REPLY
HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Installing Chip style (SMD) LED lights????
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 2  Topic Subscribe

Tuesday, May 22 - 7:00 am - Copyright © 2000-2018 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online