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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  Airwolf Turbine - My Build
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Haha Don gets it!!!

Steve

01-02-2017 03:03 AM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Mmm kay. Just spent the last 90 minutes wet sanding the vertical tail fin after the first layer of primer. Not sure I need to spend this much time on doing this. Gotta make the determination if I am building a flying model or a static model that is examined from a maximum distance of 5cm. LOL!

Steve

01-02-2017 03:30 PM
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chopper37

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FL350

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Steve, wolf looking fantastic, not sure if I missed it but what glue are you using to "fix" the styrene to the fuse?

01-02-2017 04:06 PM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Steve, wolf looking fantastic, not sure if I missed it but what glue are you using to "fix" the styrene to the fuse?
CA glue. Used medium thickness for most pieces. The super small pieces I used thin with a CA applicator wick attachment on the bottle.

Steve

01-02-2017 10:55 PM
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chopper37

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FL350

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That's what I figured, the CA isn't to brittle when the fuse flexes that it would cause it to come off?, have you tested this just curious.

01-02-2017 10:59 PM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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I've not tested that theory. But in my mind, if the fuse flexes enough to cause an issue with those glue joints, then I probably have other, much larger issues - if you know what I mean.

Steve

01-03-2017 12:16 AM
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chopper37

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FL350

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Gotcha.

01-03-2017 01:15 AM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Well crap! Bit of a set back today. Was getting everything ready to shoot the first coat of primer on the fuse tomorrow when disaster struck. Somehow I managed to bump the fuse when it was on my table and in its stand. I knew I was in trouble when I heard the massive THUD as it hit the concrete floor.

Nearly crushed the right winglet along with some various damage to my details on the bottom of the fuse..........


I guess it could be worse, could have happened AFTER paint; glad it didnt. I guess the heli gods are still looking after me. Fortunately it is all superficial damage and I'll be a be able to fix everything without too much trouble. Just bummed as it will take me quite a few days to get it all repaired and just delays getting primer on the fuse that much longer. UGH!!!

Steve

01-14-2017 10:50 PM
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hrc37

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Derry, PA

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CRAP!

Hey Steve,

I've had things like that happen to me (probably like most of us) and sometimes it can be enough to make a grown man cry! But like you said, it could have been worse. Mark

01-15-2017 03:48 AM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Well, cant let a little fall keep me down. So got a few things done today.

Got the doghouse pieces wet sanded and started with some rivets.........

Added some additional detail to the guns and gave them a first coat of primer. I took a bit of "artistic freedom" on the guns to simplify them a bit, yet still give them some "character" as the "real" ones are stupid complicated. The holes you see are for simulated cables and hard piped hydraulic lines that will be added after final paint......



And got the nav light housings installed. Housings are from fine-scalemodela.com. I didnt want to try to fabricate these and the price for these 3D printed pieces was too cheap to pass up. LED is installed from the backside and will be glued in place after paint is done......

And got the first round of hysol and glass down on the repair. Just waiting for it to dry so I can start sanding/filling and making the damage disappear.

Steve

01-15-2017 10:53 PM
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Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Steve, so sorry to hear about the Oh $hit moment with the fuse... It happens to all of us and hanger rash always sucks. I really like the 3D printed light bezels. I'm going to check the site to see if they have the roof bezels for my Huey.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

01-16-2017 01:40 AM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Amazing how much character a few rivets can give a model helicopter.....

Whilst getting my rivet therapy on, I had an epiphany on how I could add some raised surface detail to the fuse, vertical stab, and horizontal stab. So I will be tackling that next. Stay tuned.

Steve

01-18-2017 01:10 AM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Well I think I passed my Apprenticeship and am now a Level 3 Master Body Repair man LOL!!!

After manipulating and cleaning up the shattered fiberglass a bit, applied the first coat of hysol. Worked into each and every crevice and crack....

Sanded the hysol and applied the first coat of bondo......

Sanded some more and after a couple of coats of filler primer and a little more sanding and then sanding the small areas where I have applied some spot putty to fill in a couple of pin holes, damage will have disappeared.....

Pretty happy with how the repair went and the final result.

On another note, my epiphany test for raised surface detail failed MISERABLY. Something went wrong with the tape I was using for masking. It is the standard blue painters tape, supposed to be "clean release", but it did not release clean at all. It left adhesive residue behind big time and pretty much ruined what I was trying to do. Left a big sticky, nasty mess. Bummer. Oh well, will have to spend time fixing that mess and try to come up with something.

Steve

01-20-2017 01:45 AM
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hrc37

Senior Heliman

Derry, PA

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Hysol

Hey Steve, question, Why did you use "Hysol" and not just standard two part epoxy? I've never heard of Hysol nor used it before. I did look it up on-line and it does seem a bit pricey compared to epoxy.
Thanks! Mark
Ps. By the way, where did you buy it?

01-20-2017 03:15 PM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Mark,

As a young modeler wanna be, I was schooled by the masters who told me that standard 2 part epoxy does not bond very well to the fiberglass resin, and can result in a not-so-great joint. Hysol also known as Loctite 9462 or BVM aeropoxy, seems to to be the glue of choice for structural bonding of just about any composite resin based material (fiberglass or carbon fiber sheet/shapes). It's STRONG. I was wanting to make sure I bonded all of the cracks back together to ensure they never propagated in the future, hence the reason I used hysol for structural repair AND I also used it as the main "filler" to build back up the low areas - for extra surface area bonding.

Yes it is expensive, but it IS the stuff. It is thixotropic in that it stays in place and wont sag, run or drip when applied. About the only "down side" is the long cure time (24-72 hours for full cure), but this is also a good thing as it remains "workable" for nearly an hour (becomes almost putty like and can be "molded" after an hour or so). You can smooth it out with your finger and create very smooth fillet glue joints with ease. I absolutely LOVE the stuff.

I get my supply from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com).

https://www.mcmaster.com/#loctite-9462/=15zt6r1

You'll need the dispensing gun. You dont have to use the mixing nozzles, most of the time I just dispense what I need right from the tubes using the gun into a epoxy mixing cup and manually mix with a wooden skewer. You'll waste ALOT of hysol using the mixing tubes - but I have used the mixing tubes a few times as they aid in getting to hard to reach areas.

Hope this helps!

Steve

01-20-2017 03:51 PM
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hrc37

Senior Heliman

Derry, PA

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Hysol

Hmmmm....I've always used Zap Z-Poxy Finishing Resin anytime I've laid-up fiberglass or made major repairs. Not sure why 2-part epoxy would not not bond with this sonce they are both epoxy base. I can see that it may be a problem if you were repairing a fuse that was made with polyester resin instead of epoxy resin (which I don't is used much anymore). But anyhow, I'm going to order some Hysol and give it a try. Thanks for the link! Mark

01-20-2017 04:18 PM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Keepin on keepin on......

Well, raised panel details have been giving me a fit lately. I had tried 3 different techniques that all resulted in failure. Some more epic than others. I had almost thrown in the towel on these details, but after reading JestRR's Crane build thread, he was able to show me the way. I figure I am at least 6.372% (rough estimate) as talented as he, so I gave it one final go.

Raised area didnt come out as "raised" as I would like. Hoping paint and clear coat dont make them disappear. This better be worth it as it has been alot of work LOL!.

Started with the masking on the winglets and vertical fin......

Then applied 6 coats of SEM high-build filler primer, waiting 1 hour between each coat to allow the previous coat to fully flash off....

Allowed the 6th and final coat to fully dry overnight. Then I rubbed my stomach and patted my head at the same time for 30 seconds and started pulling the mask to reveal a raised panel line. These pics are immediately after pulling the tape and before any sanding .....





Happy with outcome, just not as defined as as was hoping. Like I said, I hope they dont disappear after paint.

Also got the first coat of primer on the tail boom. It is now ready for the first wet sanding......

And I know I have been saying this, but I am pretty dang sure I am FINALLY done with fabrication/detailing on the fuse. As long as I dont drop it again, next step is first coat of primer.....

Steve

01-23-2017 02:55 AM
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cobieg

Heliman

Florida

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Steve, I have been following this build for a while now. Amazing attention to detail. I feel your pain with breaking it before it is done. After building the "V" tail on my Hughes 500C, I was taking it out for a test flight when the dog got under my feet, causing the tail to smash into the door frame. It broke away clean because of the type of glue that I used. Glued it back on with Hysol, it is permanent now.
What kind of primer are you using? I like the color.

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

01-23-2017 02:02 PM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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The really dark primer is Duplicolor Automotive Sandable Primer. I like it as it easily highlights any imperfections in the prep that needs addressing.

Steve

01-23-2017 03:36 PM
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ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Raised panel detail on the vertical tail fin leading edge............


Steve

01-23-2017 11:49 PM
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