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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  Airwolf Turbine - My Build
12-21-2015 12:52 AM  24 months agoPost 201
Dingo07

rrApprentice

Newport Coast, CA - USA

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What Double E suggested is exactly what I thought you were going to do in the first place, Steve.

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12-21-2015 02:18 AM  24 months agoPost 202
Double E

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Atlanta, GA

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Instead of cutting out a hatch that weakens the doghouse structure, could you make the entire doghouse removable with magnets, pins, latches and avoid screws altogether? Maybe you could permanently attach the small cut outs under the exhaust pipes to the main fuselage and use a ply or glass lip to maintain a smooth consistent seam/gap?

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12-21-2015 03:01 AM  24 months agoPost 203
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Thanks Eric. I like your thinking. I think I am going to re-evaluate your original idea of having a small removable section just below the exhaust outlets and like you just stated, having the entire doghouse removable (sans the small removable sections.) I should have plenty of room for the doghouse to lift straight up. Looking at using recessed screws to help hide them a little better. I am pretty sure I still want a positive retention system (screws) for the doghouse.

Steve

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12-21-2015 03:32 AM  24 months agoPost 204
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Eric, I think I am liking your idea more and more. I think I can leave the red portion as a separate panel in the pic below. Then the entire rear portion of the doghouse can be lifted straight up and out of place. It will only add a couple of screws more than I would have had originally and I can recess them so they are flush with the body panel.

Steve

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12-21-2015 04:43 AM  24 months agoPost 205
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Excellent work-around!

Now git'er done!

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12-21-2015 03:07 PM  24 months agoPost 206
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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Aint nutn stoppin this guy! great job steve. your scale building skills have certainly been getting a workout with this one aye?
Magic in the making

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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12-21-2015 08:41 PM  24 months agoPost 207
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Thanks guys!

It is certainly a challenge I have been enjoying. Frustrating only because I am so very anxious to see it finished!

Steve

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12-21-2015 09:51 PM  24 months agoPost 208
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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" Frustrating only because I am so very anxious to see it finished!"

It will be worth every minute when she is up there cruising around, and you being comfortable that you gave it everything that it needed to work/look perfect...
That's what makes the first flights after final paint so much fun...
It is looking great...

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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12-22-2015 01:19 AM  23 months agoPost 209
Double E

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Atlanta, GA

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Steve,

That looks like a great alternative. I'm sure you'll do great with the fabrication.

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12-26-2015 10:54 PM  23 months agoPost 210
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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If ya wanna start sumtin, there gonna be sumtin!

Well this is the update of the good and the bad.

Let's start with the good.

Finished up the winglets. Winglets are constructed of 2 layers of 3/32" basswood bonded together with the grain running 90 degrees to each other. This gives me good rigidity and stability. Started by bolting both right and left units together to ensure I ended up with two identical winglets. Rough cut them close the line with the scroll saw....

Then used the benchtop belt sander to sand to the line....

Then hand sanded the leading and trailing edges to the proper profile...

Turned out pretty good!

A few coats of sanding sealer. Sanded smooth. Here they are temporarily installed on the horizontal stab. Permanent mounting will be via hysol to the stab, with a recessed 3mm bolt for stability. The recessed bolt head will be filled in with bondo and sanded smooth for painting.

Then we fabbed up the antenna on the rear boom. Again used 3/32" basswood. Few coats of sanding sealer......

Created a tab for mounting to hopefully help keep it from being easily knocked off....

Here she is just sitting place. I'll glue it place after priming......

Also worked on the fitting of the control panel hatch. Need to do some sanding and filling to get the hatch on fuse on the same plane. Pretty close now....



And got the first coat of primer on the reprofiled vertical fin. Turned out pretty good! Needs some minor filling and prep, but all in all I am happy with the result....

The bad. My doghouse fiasco. After gluing the cutout back in place and reinforcing the joint, then lots of sanding and filling and sanding, it turned out OK. But just OK is not gonna cut it for me. I also attempted to modify the location of the side vents below the exhaust, and again, they turned out OK, but I know I can do better and get them perfect the second time around. So, hopefully Joe can get me a replacement doghouse piece. Fortunately I saved my templates for the exhaust cutouts so that will be super easy to replicate. A lesson well learned for future builds for sure. Gonna stay with only cutting out the small pieces below the exhaust to allow the doghouse to lift straight up for interior fuse maintenance. The pics dont do a very good jobat showing the faults, but the are there. They stand out in the right light and angle. And because the heli is a dark color, the dark color will only highlight the faults. Some pics for your viewing pleasure......













Steve

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12-27-2015 04:49 AM  23 months agoPost 211
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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Wow! great job Steve! I know all about taking a step back during a build, all part of the fun.
Just like you did with the fins, I make a lot of mine from that thin bass wood. its easy to cut and finishes nicely. I try never to permanently glue anything in place when it comes to fins unless i have to in case I need to remove for transporting. its a habbit I developed after having all my scalers go to events inmy little Honda CRX that I had for 18 years. withthat little car, you leanr to make everything removable. now that its been replaced by my suv I still find myself making certain things removable for ease of transport or replacement just in case. The earth magnets are a godsent for some things like fins and big antennas.
keep on moving man, its all looking great

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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12-30-2015 03:49 PM  23 months agoPost 212
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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Thanks Doc!!

Update......nothing new to report LOL!! It's nothing but sanding, filling, sanding, filling and sanding. Oh my gosh I hate bodywork!! LOL! Gonna try and start on cutting the rear defense doors out this weekend. That's the last bit of major surgery I have to do on the main fuse. Would like to get those done, then it is just detail work to get it ready for the first coat of primer. Plan is to get the first coat of primer on before I cut out any of the window/door and other openings in the fuse.

Also, am going to visit a couple of auto body shops today and get some education on product and technique for painting this giant killer whale. Yep, I am gonna paint it myself. All I know at this point is I need a 2 part urethane clear coat for fuel proofing and durability. Gotta get the 411 on primer and color coat product type (to make sure I dont have any compatibility issue) and how to address masking the white and black. JOY!!

Hope everyone has a VERY MERRY NEW YEAR!

Steve

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12-30-2015 07:41 PM  23 months agoPost 213
BEAR

rrApprentice

Peterborough

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I would advise not to paint it yourself
One reason is the top coat is nasty stuff that needs professional breathing equipment.
You'll need etch primer for the grp and that's nasty stuff
And painting for the first time is no easy task.
But if you do do it yourself take your time. It's better to go with lmore light coats than a couple of heavy ones

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12-30-2015 08:35 PM  23 months agoPost 214
ssmith512

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Indianapolis, IN USA

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One reason is the top coat is nasty stuff that needs professional breathing equipment.
Eh, I'll just paint outside on a very windy day and make I stand up wind. Should be OK! OR, I'll just switch to a brush on polyurethane like Minwax and use a sponge brush so I dont get brush marks in the final finish.

Seriously though, I appreciate the words of caution. I'm determined to paint it myself. Maybe at the very least I might have a body shop shoot the clear in their paint booth with their fancy-smancy personal protection equipment.

Steve

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12-31-2015 11:36 PM  23 months agoPost 215
Dingo07

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Newport Coast, CA - USA

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Wow, hearing you're going to paint it yourself gives me the chills!!! You spent countless hours making sure all was excellent up to this point - why skimp on the last part that makes All the Difference!?! Don't get me wrong, I know the feeling of accomplishment you'll feel after being able to say you did it ALL yourself, but like another poster said, a professional paint job is not for beginners.

Here's a couple reasons why I suggest you do not paint it yourself:

1 - Unless you have a manometer with a slightly negative pressure "Clean Room" with high density air filtration to paint in, you're going to have particles in anything you paint or clear.

2 - A paint gun needs to be set up properly, it's not only an art it's science too - you should have a firm understanding of the relationship between the velocity of volume of air passing through the gun and the velocity of the fluid flow rate passing through the orifice. The ratio between the two is critical to providing an excellent wet, smooth finish.

3 - The air coming out of your compressor should be dry, which means the tank needs to be moisture and rust free.

Good Skill on your endeavor! Can't wait to see!!!

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01-01-2016 01:26 AM  23 months agoPost 216
hrc37

rrApprentice

Derry, PA

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Paint

Hey Steve,

You have to paint it...that's 33 & 3rd worth of the build...lol And to me, I don't get the same satisfaction if I don't build, set-up, and paint my own models. I do have a few "factory" painted models but I don't get that same feeling inside when I look and fly one compared to the models I've painted myself. It's really not that difficult and as long as you use a good gun, good mask, eye protection, and keep all exposed skin covered up, you'll be good. As the famous Rob Schneider once said "You can dooooo it!"
Mark

Ps. By the way, if you would ever want to compete with the Airwolf, you will lose points if it's not painted by you.

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01-01-2016 01:25 PM  23 months agoPost 217
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Wow, hearing you're going to paint it yourself gives me the chills!!!
What!?!? Have you no faith in my ridiculously, unbelievably, super awesome, out of this world skills!?!?!? I was TOP DOG at finger painting in Kindergarten. Granted, I wont be finger painting Wolf, but it cant be all that much different?!?!? I appreciate the concerns, advice, and precautionary information. But I HAVE to paint it paint myself. I just wont feel right if I dont. I am not looking for a custom show car finish that is so deep and glossy you can comb your hair from the reflection at 10 feet away, so I am pretty sure I can get it close enough.
Hey Steve,
You have to paint it
I know!
Ps. By the way, if you would ever want to compete with the Airwolf, you will lose points if it's not painted by you.
Not building it to compete with, so that was never a concern. This is supposed to be my "fun" scale heli.

Steve

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01-02-2016 12:50 AM  23 months agoPost 218
MattJen

rrElite Veteran

UK

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have you flown the mechanics in pod and boom format yet ?

before you put them into the lovely highly scaled fuse ?

I seen the vids of you testing the mechanics in the fuse and I personally would never test out a set of mechanics in a beautiful highly scaled fuse until I ironed out all the bugs in a pod and boom format setup.

Its a lovely fuse you have and some really nice personal touches you have added, I had a hover with one a while ago which belonged to a fellow club flyer..

Matt

All The Best

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01-02-2016 01:55 AM  23 months agoPost 219
ssmith512

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, IN USA

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Thanks Matt.

Pod and boom? No. That would require me designing and fabricating my own pod and boom frame and buying a complete whole other tail boom/torque tube setup. That doesnt seem practical to me and not really interested in spending the money or time to do that. I have flown the system in its designed format and am satisfied with its performance. I am confident that there will be no issues. There are lots of them flying around, so it is not like I am flying a one off with zero air time.

Steve

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01-02-2016 02:59 AM  23 months agoPost 220
Double E

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Atlanta, GA

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I agree with Steve. These aren't your run of the mill pod and boom mechanics being bolted into a fuselage. The Jetcat PHT3-3 turbine mechanics were never designed to be flown as pod and boom. Don't get me wrong, I would prefer to maiden the mechanics separately but it's not really practical for these large turbine powered Vario kits.

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  Airwolf Turbine - My Build
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