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HelicopterThunder TigerOther › Raptor 60 things to do?
12-20-2003 09:54 PM  13 years agoPost 1
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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I just traded for a Raptor 60 kit and was wondering what is maybe not absolutly needed to upgrade. But what would be good to upgrade when building the kit. Mine will arrive already haveing the carbon pitch arm (TT), aluminum aieleron bellcranks (quick UK), aluminum washout unit (Quick UK), aluminum swash plate (Quick UK), aluminum head block (Quick UK), and a Maverik see saw block with head button (all brand new, shipped from HeliProz and Quick UK). I already have a set of NHP 680mm mains for it, and the JR 14mm kit for the Vigor (to accomidate 12/4 blades). I also have a pair of MS 102 tail blades for it, and plan on buying an aluminum fan for it, as well as carbon fins. So what else would be good to upgrade while building? I know most will say fuel. But I like to get stuff out of the way while building. And I also have three top end birds. So I am accustomed to nice machines (not that this one will let me down stock). And this will be a well used bird. So what else? Perhaps the upgraded bearing blocks? Aluminum elevator settup? Push pull on the elevator servo? Anything for the tail? Let me know your thoughts.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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12-20-2003 11:14 PM  13 years agoPost 2
raptorchris

Senior Heliman

Mliford, CT

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A metal upgrade is a must. I ran the stock one 1st, and it didn't last long at all. I have been using the Quick UK metal fan with no problems ever since. Other than that, the only upgrades on my R60/OS70 are carbon blades and a header tank. I also installed the R90 fuel tank. I was only getting 7 min. flights with the stock one.

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12-20-2003 11:37 PM  13 years agoPost 3
James Yeram

Veteran

Oceanside, CA

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must:
1: pin the torque tube.
easton 2013 xx75 arrow shaft and the j4 ends from ricks. roll pins and jb weld and some tools. about 10 bucks

2: metal fan
40-50 bucks??

3: ricks head o-ring upgrade.
20 bucks

and thats it other than the occasonal bling

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12-21-2003 09:33 PM  13 years agoPost 4
Genty

Senior Heliman

Scottish Borders

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I've gone with James' suggestions points 1 and 2 plus carbon 3D fin and tailplane but otherwise my 60 is stock and copes well with all the 3D I can chuck at it.

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12-21-2003 09:51 PM  13 years agoPost 5
Dazzler

Elite Veteran

Ohio

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One other thing

I would check the Jesus bolts, if they are the stock ones(small or no shoulder), I would recommend replacing them with R30 blade grip bolts, they have a longer shoulder hence making them stronger, the part # for them is PV0053. Replace the one on top, and bottom!!!

Daz...

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12-22-2003 03:00 PM  13 years agoPost 6
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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OK that stuff sounds reasonable. What would be wrong with pinning the original torque tube? And why hasn't TT done it them selves at this point? I think the model has been out long enough for them to have made this little mod without us having to do it. I ordered the all bearing auto unit and a pair of side frame stiffeners for grins and giggles last night. Hopefully the kit will arrive Tuesday. So I have another toy to play with.

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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12-22-2003 04:04 PM  13 years agoPost 7
Rotorhead

Senior Heliman

Spokane, WA

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What would be wrong with pinning the original torque tube? And why hasn't TT done it them selves at this point? I think the model has been out long enough for them to have made this little mod without us having to do it.
The new 90 models appear to have a pinned torque tube according to the description on Heli-kraft's website. Interesting that they are sold out

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12-22-2003 04:17 PM  13 years agoPost 8
Sar

Elite Veteran

Saugeties, NY

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On my R60 I've upgraded to a metal fan, CNC mainshaft bearing blocks and tail boom servo mount, CF tails fins, tailboom TR servo mount. My plastic fan went to crud after a few gallons, and I had the CNC mainshaft bearing blocks from the start.

--
Jon

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12-22-2003 04:25 PM  13 years agoPost 9
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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The problem I have with that is that they decided to do that mod to a new model. And forgot to do it to the existing model as well. Seems like reverse engeneering to me. Unfortunatly the tubes are different lengths, so the one for the 90 does no good for someone that owns the standard 60. That is stupid IMPO. They need to adopt the same type of tube for all of their 60+ models. Anyone else agree? What would be so bad to have one that has mandrels that are fixed onto the shaft by setscrews (kind of Vigor CS design), and have a tube that can be replaced with an arrow shaft without to much hastle? I would think that this would be a good selling point. But of course less proffit to the manugacturer. So of course I know why things are not this way. Anyone out there that owns a machine shop? We need some ends and inserts for an arrow shaft!

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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12-22-2003 04:41 PM  13 years agoPost 10
Dazzler

Elite Veteran

Ohio

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Brian

Its pretty easy to pin the torque tube that will be with your stock R60, but I agree they should have done it. Funny thing is Mavrikk makes a R60 torque tube, and it looks identical to TT, and those are the same they need pinning too. My flying buddy had the mavrikk, and the end broke lose. I would have thought Mavrikk knowing the problem would have pinned the ends on theirs, but maybe its just too expensive to do, dont know!!!

Daz....

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12-22-2003 06:12 PM  13 years agoPost 11
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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I agree that this is the mentality. But to me, I would think that the extra 50 cents would be worth the not so good publicity that is being spread in this thread alone from not being an issue at all. To fix exsisting problems, and to let it be known that you as a company know and are takeing care of it. Ensures not only consumer loyalty but trust as well. But I guess I am only one person. So maybe others don't think that way. TT are you listening?

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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12-23-2003 04:00 AM  13 years agoPost 12
Rmac41

Senior Heliman

Stockbridge,Ga

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Hey Brian,
Build it with the 90 size boom & shaft . That gives you more choice
for engine, blade and tail blade.

Rick McCullough < Stockbridge, Ga.>

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12-23-2003 04:03 AM  13 years agoPost 13
Sar

Elite Veteran

Saugeties, NY

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I think 50 cents is a large overestimate of the price to add 2 screws to the torque tube. You buy 50,000 screws, 50,000 nuts and the labor to drill two holes? That's pretty cheap, maybe 5 cents

--
Jon

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12-23-2003 06:18 AM  13 years agoPost 14
woodchopper

Heliman

Edmonton, Alberta

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If you are going to run a 60 in the Raptor you might want to try 660mm blades.

If you measure the blade span on the raptor with 680's it will be close to most machines with 700's That's almost 1.5 sq. ft. of additional disk area.

Its cheaper than buying more power.

Have fun.

Mark Richens

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12-23-2003 03:05 PM  13 years agoPost 15
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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I am sure it will be fine with 680's on it. I had 700's on the Fury that the engine I am going to use came out of. And it flew fine. Had plenty of power. Besides I already have the blades (680 NHP), and they are practicly new. So I am going to use them. As for the 90 size boom and tube, I will wait until I am forced to buy those parts to do that mod.

Another question I have is how are you guys pinning the stock tube? I don't realy want to do the arrow shaft thing at this point. So that is my best option for now. What size drill bit are you guys useing? And are you useing a roll pin, or a screw and nut? And what size pin/screw? Also are you useing any shrink tubeing over the pin just to make sure it doesn't come out? I do have access to a drill press, so that is no big deal. I just want to make sure I do it right. Thanks so far guys. My kit should arrive today. CAN'T WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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12-23-2003 03:23 PM  13 years agoPost 16
Dazzler

Elite Veteran

Ohio

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Brian, I have used roll pins and they work great, especially since they collaspe to make a nice snug fit, however a 2-56 bolt will work fine too. With the roll pin I believe I used a .068 size drill, but whatever pin type you use just measure it and get the drill bit required, it doesnt have to be perfect, but the closer the better.

If you use a bolt be sure to dremel the ends off with a cutoff wheel so that it is flush with the tube, and insert the pin with JB Weld included.

I like to use heatshrink tubing over the assembly just for cosmetic purposes, it may help but if the pin is a tight fit, and using JB Weld its probably not required, but I do it.

One other point is b4 drilling through the torque tube install the shaft bearing, once you drill it they can be quite difficult to get on.

Now stop looking for that UPS Truck

Daz...

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12-23-2003 03:39 PM  13 years agoPost 17
MobileRaptor

Veteran

Orange, Texas

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Well, I'm sure your going to get several answers on how to pin it. Many ues roll pins and such.

I use a 1 in peice of music wire. (APX. 1/16") I use a drill press to drill a hole near the same size to slightly smaller in the torgue tube. I then use a larger drill bit in the drill press upside down and use this to press the music wire through the hole.

Once I have the music wire installed I use a cut off wheel to cut of the excess music wire on either leaving about a 1/16 of a inch on either side. I then used the anvil portion of my vise and a hammer to mushroom the exposed music wire.

I have done about 10 torque for flier at my field this way and none have failure of any kind with the turque tube.

Talking about costs, I can do around 20 tubes with one length of music wire and once I'm on a roll I can do one in about ten min. by hand. How fast could they do it if they had a machine set up for it.

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12-23-2003 05:30 PM  13 years agoPost 18
Buzzin Brian

rrProfessor

College Station, Texas

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MobileRaptor,
That is an interesting idea. I hadn't even thought of something like that. I bet that would work well. I might look into that. But I am sure roll pins and shrink tubeing would work well also. Things to consider. But luckilly for me Dazzler made it a WHOLE lot easier on me.

With that out of the way. Any other ideas for the machine?

Build it, fly it, crash it. Repeat as often as needed.

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