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HelicopterMain Discussion › Gear mesh
03-09-2015 08:46 PM  3 years agoPost 1
don s

rrElite Veteran

Chesapeake, VA

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Set "0" backlash at the high point.

or

Set minimal backlash at the high point.

I can find posts that support both statements. Which is correct?

E820, Raptor G4N, X50F/E, E620, Forza 450, and some planks.

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03-09-2015 09:16 PM  3 years agoPost 2
Jerry K

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Houston Area

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My vote is for "Set minimal backlash at the high point"

Slight movment at the high point of the main gear

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03-09-2015 09:31 PM  3 years agoPost 3
Ronald Thomas

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Gainesville, Fl, USA

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Depends on the heli/gear type…etc. For Mikado helis, set ZERO backlash at the high spot…...

Team MikadoUSA 480XXTreme, 550SX, 600SX, 700XXTreme, 800XXTreme!!

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03-09-2015 11:12 PM  3 years agoPost 4
ICUR1-2

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Ottawa, Ontario

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myself I find the low point and set zero then break in the gear for a couple of hovers and then reset the back lash.

but I guess it depends on the model make and gear material

spending time, paying attention

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03-09-2015 11:27 PM  3 years agoPost 5
Andy from Sandy

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Bedfordshire, UK

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Maybe there is no specific right or wrong just so long as you really do find the high spot and make the adjustment there.

Depending on the cogging of the motor it might not be so easy and when dealing with a Logo 480 that is a lot of teeth to check.

Setting no backlash can be another tricky task in that if you push just a little there will strain on the drive system. If there is minimal backlash you know there is no additional load.

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03-10-2015 12:13 AM  3 years agoPost 6
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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If the gear is more or less round and only has a small high spot, mesh for slight backlash on the low portion of the gear and let the high spot bed in with just a few flights maybe with some silicone grease. Clean the gear after it has bedded in. If the gear is more of a warped POS where half the mesh is way tight and the other is loose, you can't do much better than meshing tight against the high side and then hoping the low side is not too loose.

Ben Minor

Peak Aircraft/Team Minicopter Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA

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03-11-2015 12:22 AM  3 years agoPost 7
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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Another vote here for...

Zero on the high point.

So far, so good doing that. I fly 3D and get good life from a Mikado maingear using this technique.

In contrast, my SDX is not adjustable, has slight click at the high point, and wears out far faster.

Sure, there might be other variables (SDX is nitro, so is subject to vibration and collected lapping compound goo) but this is my data as such, so I'm a believer at zero on the high. That said, check for freedom of movement. A very slight drag may be ok, but don't go so small as to create a tight spot. That cannot be good on the geartrain and bearings.

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03-11-2015 12:55 AM  3 years agoPost 8
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

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0 at the high point, hover and do a few circuits to see if it broke in a bit, a very small amount of lithium grease after it has broken in, IF it breaks in and becomes even.

Problem with 0 is that the gears may change when driven and cause MORE friction, then your using more amps to power through, creating a load on the motor that should not be there, (sdx is nitro yes?).

You know those Blade 300/400/450 gears? all the same gear and terribly out of round, when I used them I keyed them on the unimat and filed the high point until they almost disappeared. crappy plastic composition too. Since taken to using some lithium mixed with dry lube to prime gears with slippage otherwise not there without, a little goes a long way. My 300 now uses trex 450 gears and as of changing in a new one last night I have to eliminate some material on the high point to keep it from jamming the motor some and get the best overall lash.

CNC gears are not supposed to need high point lash adjustment when you have that luxury.

If you have a piece of something shaped like the gear tooth valley and covered with 600 wet sand paper you can carefully knock down some high point material before flying, it won't take much but maintain the tooth shape primarily. Check the lash after a break in period and reset it until it is even all the way around. That's known as the McGyver cnc method, lol. Better you refine the gear a little manually than your pinion reshapes it and itself going through the process.

2cs

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03-11-2015 12:58 AM  3 years agoPost 9
Ronald Thomas

rrMaster

Gainesville, Fl, USA

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Be careful with Lithium grease, it is petroleum based and will attack plastics Over time and make them brittle. Silicone is synthetic and will not do that...

Team MikadoUSA 480XXTreme, 550SX, 600SX, 700XXTreme, 800XXTreme!!

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03-11-2015 01:01 AM  3 years agoPost 10
icanfly

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ontario

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yes that can be true, although, careful with silicone in the presence of electronics, it may cause static conductivity (if I read correctly in some article a year ago), EXPERTS, YOU WANT TO CHIME IN ON THIS?

so little is used it shouldn't be a worry, we're talking a nano meter of application besides.

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03-11-2015 01:39 AM  3 years agoPost 11
GREYEAGLE

rrElite Veteran

Flat Land's

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Oh well : Gear's of this siize ? and back lash ?? It' more of a Root clearance issue.

Their ar two different types of interference: Radial which you are discussing or Axial. Axial is the $10.00 word for wobble.

Then you even get morph's which combine the two.

Don't start slinging a Petrolium products on Poly or composite gear's unless you are using a high carrier solvent to disperse some thing like powdered graphite or a dry Moly .

Solvent can also attack plastic's and White Lith is nothing more than a White Clay used to carry the petroleum. Makes a dandy grinding compound like silicon carbide sand paper. Once you attrack the dirt to it.

Easiest way to diagnosis the issue is to grab a fresh bottle of type writer white out and lightly mark the high spot with a dot on the outer
rim as a bench mark. Then lightly paint the circumference / let it dry then roll the gear thru several time's.

Then go back and read the wear pattern. It may be a axial runnout issue. The white out will leave where their is proper contact or too much and the area's it effect's.

You will see the High Spot's and if their is a wobbel wear pattern.

Also note Poly Gear's are Hydroscopic " dynamic" especially if it's low grade material. They can change depending on the Humidity - absorb moisture .

Once you determine what the issue is then their are a few remedies - Hard to tell with out seeing the set up.

I only know this stuff cause I slept at a Holiday INN. -

greyeagle

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