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HelicopterThunder TigerOther › Just ordered a 50 v2
12-19-2003 12:48 AM  13 years agoPost 1
da_man

rrKey Veteran

Central NC

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I just purchased a raptor 50 v2 from heliproz. I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions or building tips or anything I should look for.

Is there also any tricks to breaking in a thunder tiger engine or is it the same as any other engine.

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12-19-2003 01:04 AM  13 years agoPost 2
Ruff

rrVeteran

Queen Creek, AZ

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Get the metal frame post set and the bearing Greaser.

You'll thank me later.....

Ruff

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12-19-2003 01:09 AM  13 years agoPost 3
capebob

rrVeteran

Cape Coral, FL

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It's a fairly straight foreward build. Make sure to use thread locker on all metal to metal screws especially the set (grub) screw that holds the pin that secures the tail rotor gear on the tail rotor shaft. Also make sure the dampers are pushed all the way into the head block. I strongly recommend that you grease the pinion bearing. It will last a lot longer if you do. If you are a JR radio user it is a lot easier to mount the large JR switch if you mount it on the servo tray before you mount the servo tray to the main frames. I don't use the carbon fiber brace on my 50. If you look at where it attaches to the heli,it doesn't do much if anything to stiffen the frame and it sure makes it a lot easier to remove the engine when needed.

I have one fifty with an OS 50 and one with a TT50 and I gave them both the same normal run in. I have heard that the TT50 is a little less forgiving of a lean run when it's new but I have no firsthand knowledge about that.

Enjoy,

Bob

Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm. Churchill

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12-19-2003 08:56 AM  13 years agoPost 4
btmmcintyre

rrNovice

Ireland

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Try this site, http://www.raptortechnique.com/ I found it very helpful.

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12-19-2003 01:58 PM  13 years agoPost 5
da_man

rrKey Veteran

Central NC

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I think that site is helpful, but couldn't find his breakin settings for the tt 50. Also where do I get the bearing greaser? Is this the same stuff that goes on the pinion?

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12-19-2003 09:13 PM  13 years agoPost 6
DrDan

rrVeteran

Potosi, Missouri

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I just got the same one from Heliproz. It is awesome and very easy to build. The free tools are great too. One thing you need to remember is to remove the washer from the engine before you put the fan on. I didn't take it off and it made my clutch bind in the bell. I noticed this before I started it which probably saved my fingers, and a crash!

Also, an easy way to make sure you use all the parts listed in the instructions, use a yellow highlighter to mark off the parts you use. This really helped out a lot on the first couple of pages. If you have any questions on the building, let me know and I will try to help you with my very limited knowledge.

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12-19-2003 09:19 PM  13 years agoPost 7
joey.furr

rrApprentice

Little Rock, AR

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Ruff

Why the metal frame-posts?

Watch for the autorotation-white gear issue on the Rappy 50.

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12-19-2003 09:27 PM  13 years agoPost 8
RaffyrrElite Veteran - Chicago, Illinois - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Secure the bottom latch of the canopy on the skid with a screw.

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12-20-2003 03:49 AM  13 years agoPost 9
tauscnc

rrKey Veteran

Joliet IL

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I just bought one too! My first raptor. Overall very straight forward kit and good parts (though my clutch bell was bent). The free parts from heliproz are truely useful! Very nice.

I built mine stock and figure will replace as needed. I did not find anything on it that needed instant replacement. I agree while many of the upgrades are or look nice the stock version seems plenty (now again this is my FIRST raptor and I have not flown it yet so do take that with a grain of salt). I also mounted my fan with the thrust washer to find out it did not fit well. So do take that off.

As mentioned above, secure the lower part of the canopy, it slips off easily and can get caught on the cylic.

I also don't think the carbon frame brace really adds to the strength of the frame but I do think it may keep the frames from cracking in the event of a crash. I had the Nexus and the raptor frame is very simular. With a good nose down crash its possible to snap the frame in the engine area.

I read up on raptor techique (nice site) and did some of the "mods" suggested.

Nice kit.
taus

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12-20-2003 04:23 AM  13 years agoPost 10
donlynn

rrKey Veteran

New Zealand

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Gidday

Another option rather than the screw through the front body clip, fit a fiberglass rod into the tube running crosswise at the front of the gear tray, have it ~20 mm proud and slip ~15mm large dia silicone tube as soft ends, (confirm your clearance) this pushes up against the inside of the canopy and helps prevent the canopy flicking up and locking the swash at full cyclic foward, not a good look while landing.
Lightweight or thin oil, soaked into the bushes at each end of the one way auto bearing in the maingear center, more is ok
Run the hor fin mount on a file a wee bit if loose on the boom.
Glue the bladegrips and seal the root end , I use ca some use epoxy.
Large fuel tube over the entire needle assembly.
Bottom jesus bolt and virgin nyloc nut only tight enuf to prevent the jesus bolt rotating.
If using the futaba h/duty switch then flip open the back of the switch cover and file a slot to allow the wire to exit the rear, this allows a stress free installation.
Just a lick of light oil on the mainshaft where the swash plate runs and the same on the tail shaft where the yolk runs.
Some folks reccomend a uniflow mod, I'm yet to try it, do a search maybe.
Same for the tt idle needle a wee radius, do a search and decide for yourself.

Regards Don

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12-20-2003 12:05 PM  13 years agoPost 11
zoro

rrApprentice

Cairns

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I found that if you check, check and double check
all your link lengths, put the lower canopy clip on, CA'd everything that was supposed to be CA'd and loctite'd eveything that was supposed to be then the bird will fly true and straight right outa the box.

Kent Duncan

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12-20-2003 01:12 PM  13 years agoPost 12
Drunk Monk

rrProfessor

Preston, UK

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tauscnc, there are a couple of upgrades that really are worth looking at. The first is a metal tail pitch slider. The plastic does work perfectly well but with the metal slider you get upgrade pins that have e-clips on to stop the pins coming out. The other item is an upgraded washout base for the same reason, the pins come out in flight so you lose elevator control. I've had this happen and it's not pretty. With the upgraded washout you also get better pins with e-clips so this "shouldn't" be a problem. I've heard of people on here using a little ca on the pins or drilling the plastic and putting a blob of glue in but the upgrades are pretty cheap and the e-clips work really well. The stock pin in my elevator lasted 12 months before it decided it had enough and left for a better place so it's not something you need to do straight away,


Stephen

I only open my mouth to change feet.....

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12-31-2003 07:33 AM  13 years agoPost 13
tauscnc

rrKey Veteran

Joliet IL

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Hey Drunk Monk,
thanks! Will keep a watch out of the potential problem areas. I am very interested to try most of this heli stock as I also get caught up in the "upgrade this" "fix that." So far the heli seem nice, haven't flown it yet. I probably will upgrade per crash or machine out my own parts as time permits.

thanks again
taus
http://www.cuttingedgecnc.com

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