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HelicopterHIROBOOther › X-spec and SB16
12-18-2003 01:21 PM  14 years agoPost 1
elviswl

rrApprentice

Fort Lauderdale, South Florida

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I finally got my x-spec in the air, what a stable machine. I am now working on getting it to be on the agile side.

Two days out so far, and I have managed to break the muffler clamp after both days. The break is in the same place - where the clamp connects to the stand-off.

I am using the YS91, sb16, with original mufler clamp hardware.

Is this normal for the original clamp hardware ?

What are you guys using on your x-spec to keep the muffler in one place ?

I plan to start with the paddle weights to get this beast on the wild side. Any other ideas ?

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12-18-2003 02:43 PM  14 years agoPost 2
V8Buggy (RIP)

rrVeteran

USA

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Head Speed , Head Speed , Head Speed, I don't know what your running, but the difference in agility from say 1650 to 1850 or 1900 is astonishing.

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12-18-2003 03:11 PM  14 years agoPost 3
elviswl

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Fort Lauderdale, South Florida

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I am still breaking in the engine. I am shooting for 1900 with a TJ, using the 7.92 gear ratio.

First flights with stock set-up were smooth as silk, stable piro etc, but slow on flips and rolls.

The next flight will be without the brass weights in the paddle.

I have the ex-dampers and I will eventually use the lower hole in the main mast.

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12-18-2003 03:26 PM  14 years agoPost 4
V8Buggy (RIP)

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USA

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I took the brass weights out also, and that does speed it up some, I tried all three holes in the see-saw, and while the "high mobility" does speed it up, I found it to be a fairly small change. Per Jeff G. and Todd B. I moved the linkage ball that goes from the mixer arm to the blade grip out to the end hole, and this also quickened it up a little. After reading other peoples input on this board, and watching Augusto fly at what he claims is 1900 ( I think it's more like 2K), sorry Augusto if that's a secret, I found it responds to head speed the most. Great thing about this machine, none of this degrades FFF or that rock solid hover!

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12-18-2003 05:23 PM  14 years agoPost 5
MRC-Hirobo

rrKey Veteran

Edison, NJ

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Try this as well

Try removing the brass weights from the paddles,

put the seesaw in the mobility setting #1,

use the inner hole on the long side of the mixing arm up in the head,

use the longer pivot bolts included in the kit,

set your servo pivot bolts art 12.5mm each out from servo center,

run 1830 -1900 head speed, ( a little lower if using the 8.45 gear ratio)

make sure your governor is working and if you have the capability turn on the swash to throttle mixes,

use the outer holes on the lower washout assembly,

make sure your kit has the 555 flybar and not the 490 one that originally came with it ( if yours does have the 490, let me know and I will send you the 555)

let us know how that works for you.

Thanks

jeff

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12-18-2003 06:49 PM  14 years agoPost 6
V8Buggy (RIP)

rrVeteran

USA

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Jeff,
Question; why would you recomend using swash to throttle mix with a governor?
Thanks,
Ed

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12-18-2003 09:27 PM  14 years agoPost 7
elviswl

rrApprentice

Fort Lauderdale, South Florida

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Thanks,

I will try the set-ups over the weekend.

Hopefully the muffler clamp will last more than one flight.

There is no noticable vibs in the vertical or horizontal fin.

I saw where Augusto mentioned using a carbon bracket plate. Why does this take the vibration better than the aluminum ?
http://www.ecsvr.com/mta/shopexd.asp?id=2963

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12-18-2003 09:44 PM  14 years agoPost 8
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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I think that was a typo on SuperJeff's
part.

the 'and' should be an 'or'

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12-18-2003 09:46 PM  14 years agoPost 9
sluggo

rrElite Veteran

Kitchener Ont

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elviswl the stock clamp blows chunks!!! Email gjestico here on RR and grab one of his clamps and you will never need another one again.

Here is a pic of it.

Teambob00

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12-18-2003 09:49 PM  14 years agoPost 10
sluggo

rrElite Veteran

Kitchener Ont

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"use the inner hole on the long side of the mixing arm up in the head,

use the longer pivot bolts included in the kit,

set your servo pivot bolts art 12.5mm each out from servo center, "

Jeff which arms are you taking about, part number?

Also what longer pivot bolts are you talking about?

Thanks
Chris

Teambob00

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12-18-2003 09:57 PM  14 years agoPost 11
z11355

rrMaster

New England

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seesaw mixing arms 414106

he's referring to the swashplate upper
bolts. later kits came w/ 2 spare 'E'
bolts (to use instead of the shorter D's)

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12-19-2003 02:42 PM  14 years agoPost 12
Alistair

rrKey Veteran

no where land

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here is my ballistic/stupid/silly/shiite eating grin on your face set up...


collective push-pull t-lever...centre hole

collective pitch lever...outer hole

collective rod...81mm centre to centre

maximize flybar input by using the outer holes on the washout control arms.

use the outer holes on both sides of the mixing arms.

seesaw set for for maximum mobility.

all weights out of the paddles.

obviously adjust your pitch rods for zero pitch at mid-stick.

this will give you +/- 11 degrees collective pitch, 8 degrees cyclic pitch, 13 degrees collective pitch in hold, and no binding (going into one of the corners with cyclic will drag the swash on the mast... so don't do that).

bring your larger set with you when you go to fly this for the first few times.

enjoy

Alistair

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12-19-2003 02:55 PM  14 years agoPost 13
Alistair

rrKey Veteran

no where land

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one more thing... no expo

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12-20-2003 02:06 AM  13 years agoPost 14
elviswl

rrApprentice

Fort Lauderdale, South Florida

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I had some time to fly today and this is the set-up that I tested

..collective push-pull t-lever...outer hole,
..brass weights removed from the paddles,
..seesaw in the mobility setting #1,
..inner hole on the long side of the mixing arm up in the head,
..and the longer pivot bolts on the swashplate

I am using the longer flybar and I have about +/- 11 degrees collective pitch

The YS91 had major overflodding problems, so 1 1/2 hr to get the engine running. Also, I had a metal to metal sound while attempting to start. It sounded like it was coming from the muffler, so I took the muffler off, and I noise was still there. It looked like a problem with the clutch bell, but the noise dissapeared once the engine started.

The heli, with canopy off, was a beast. Now its responsive and loads of power.

After thrashing it around for about 7 minutes (this is the 4th flight of this machine), the engine died while almost vertical. The x-spec with the MAH 690's autos extremely from about 40ft,considering that the blades had virtually no headspeed when the engine died.

Upon inspection, the clunk came off in flight. I also have a wobble in my clutch bell.

Before I take the heli apart for further inspection, any thoughts on the metal to metal sound, and fixes to keep the clunk on. I was using the original fuel line supplied with the kit.

BTW, I am definitely sold on the x-spec. It was extremley responsive and stable at the same time. It should be a sweet machine once the growing pains are fixed.

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12-20-2003 02:58 AM  13 years agoPost 15
Alistair

rrKey Veteran

no where land

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the stock line never stayed on or together for me. i just used fuel line, and zip tie to keep it on in the tank. haven't had a problem since.

perhaps the sound could be from the hex start coupler being a bit loose, and moving on the start shaft. this has happened to mine a few times. no bother, just tighten the set screw

try my ballistic set-up. i'm sure that will be more than enough

cheers

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12-20-2003 10:47 PM  13 years agoPost 16
Augusto

rrElite Veteran

US

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V8Buggy,

At the San Diego Fun Fly in a couple of my flights the head speed was way high probably 1950 like you said. That was caused by a governor sensor gone bad. When flying 7.92 I fly at 1800-1850 and when flying 8.45 ratio I fly at 1730-1750.
I don't keep any of my setups a secret as a matter of fact I usually post them to let everyone know what I'm doing lately and get some feedback.

Also even though it might seem that my cyclics are fast they are not. The same applies to my piro rate. I do a lot of pirouette flying but if you pay attention I'm not doing blinding fast piros. They are more like medium to high piro rate but very controlled. It's the way you fly it what makes you think it's fast on the cyclics. If you flew Alan Szabo's Raptor you would think it's the most unresponsive heli you ever flew. Most people that try my heli are surprised at how the cyclics are not setup too fast. Having them like that helps a lot with power managemenr when you are combining cyclic movements like when doing rolling circles for instance.

Augusto.

Avant Aurora Ultimate

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12-20-2003 11:19 PM  13 years agoPost 17
V8Buggy (RIP)

rrVeteran

USA

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Augusto,
Sorry, I was kidding, about the secret thing. I have never known you not to help anyone who asked. I'll try to keep my miss-understood sense of humor under control.
Ed

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HelicopterHIROBOOther › X-spec and SB16
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