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HelicopterMain Discussion › My Raptor 30 V1 keeps exploding!
12-18-2003 04:16 AM  13 years agoPost 21
helichulo

rrApprentice

Queens, New York

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I have a Raptor 30V1 and I had a boom strike in the summer which changed my heli for a while. I did not replace the double links (You say you did already) but I replaced everything else and when I when to fly for the first it had the so-called woof and spoof bad. I hit throtle hold thinking that that would save the heli but it broke the blades, boom + more stuff. Again I rebuilt it and again it did the same thing but I lowered the throtle and landed without a problem, this went on for about a month. I couldn't really fly, I knew there was something wrong and I just would not perform. Well, it happened again and hit the boom and broke the blades. This time I noticed that one of the double links was out of the ball link! EEHH.
I replaced everything else that broke and put new double links and it's been pretty good after that, rolls, loops, flips, etc.
Incidentally, this helicopter i have for about 2 years and it was always so good before this summer when that happened.
Please check/replace your double links and the other links as well. I have a friend that has the V2 and mine is almost completely stock and I don't see any difference in flight, the V1 is that good.
I hope you solve this problem and enjoy. You can put either thread lock or thin CA on the other linkages but don't take the double links apart or adjust them. Also, I don't think is a good idea to put oil on the dampers, this might make the rubber soggy. If anything put a very small amount of di-electric grease from the Auto Parts or slide the spindle with a little bit of windex or nothing at all like I did the last time.
I hope this helps.

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12-18-2003 04:26 AM  13 years agoPost 22
hercules

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania - USA

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Phoenix1,

Thanks for the reply. I don't have the problem either, but am thinking it might be worthwhile to get rid of the slop. Of course with my luck, I'll end up with the woop and poof after doing the mod!

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12-18-2003 05:20 AM  13 years agoPost 23
RobG

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Duncan BC. Canada

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Have you checked the air in the tires lately?

I would give it a complete teardown! Check everything very carefully.
Some times another set of eys on the problem helps too. After that if it doesn't fly you might try the grip flip. I've never done it so I can't comment on how efective it is.

Rob

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12-18-2003 05:25 AM  13 years agoPost 24
S_Owen

rrApprentice

Wichita Falls, TX.

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I think that's where I'm headed with it. Pain in the butt though!

[b]Murphy's Constant:[/b] Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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12-18-2003 05:34 AM  13 years agoPost 25
HelicopterJohn

rrKey Veteran

Seffner, Florida (Just East of Tampa, Florida)

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Ideas

raptor_newbie

You Said:
I think I will try the epoxy idea. It seems there is some slack between the bearings and the grip. What grease would you recommend seeing how the bearings will probably never see light again.
I use bearing grease in a tube that is available at your local auto parts store for lubing the thrust bearings.

I also own a GREASER and would recommend greasing the inner and outer bearings prior to epoxying them into place. My friend says that the epoxied bearings can be removed to salvage the thrust bearings if needed in the future.

You Said:
I am also going to lube the dampers although I don't know how that will help.
I use Parker "O" Lube for greasing the dampeners. It is specifically designed for lubing "O" Rings so I think is would be suitable for the dampeners. This product is usually available at industrial supply companies that sell "O" Rings.


OC Bob's Gathering #2 was a Premiere Event. Pictures in my Gallery

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12-18-2003 05:52 AM  13 years agoPost 26
helinutforever

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Delaware, Ohio

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Probably a bit off since it sounds like you are using idle ups... but do you still have the training gear on? I did not see any mention of this in any replies or your original post.

Thanks

Don

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12-18-2003 06:27 AM  13 years agoPost 27
S_Owen

rrApprentice

Wichita Falls, TX.

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Nah, I took them off, they look silly when hovering inverted. Those red balls shaking all over upside down. They'd seemed to be slowing down my flips too. And, well, you can just about forget about piro-flips with training gear.

Seriously though, no training gear.

I just ran it up out in my shop. Nice big florescent lights on the cieling and walls (wall lights help when working on the race car). With all that light, my blades looked very slightly out of track. Just barley, maybe 1/4". I am not about to try hovering in the shop, getting it light on the skids is as far as I'll take it. I ran it up in Idle 2 (1900RPM) and it started flapping at 0 pitch on the ground. I didn't notice it after I lubed the dampers and re-tracked it so I guess we'll see. I'll get her outside tomorrow.

Come on though! I have seen guys out FLYING more than an inch out of track. That couldn't be it could it? I mean 1/4"? That's not even visible with white blades!

I race little cars too and I have some silicon diff. lube I greased the dampers with. Silicone will never harm rubber and it's meant for plastics and o-rings so it should work well. I just ordered the "Greaser" from Heliproz so I'll get that in then grease and epoxy the bearings in the grips.

If this doesn't work I'll tear it down. If that doesn't work, I'm scrapping it.

[b]Murphy's Constant:[/b] Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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12-18-2003 07:18 AM  13 years agoPost 28
helinutforever

rrNovice

Delaware, Ohio

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Yes i suspected you were not using them but had to ask.

I have two R30 V1's... Both had alot of play at the grips and had a slight out of track problem as well. I dripped ca inside the grips where the bearings go to tighten things up, worked well... I also placed a washer between the spacer and the flap dampers. The result was a head just as tight as the V2 head and I never had the out of track problem again.

A friend had a 50 v1 with same issues, an upgrade to v2 head fixed all tracking issues as well.

Good luck

Don

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12-18-2003 01:13 PM  13 years agoPost 29
HelicopterJohn

rrKey Veteran

Seffner, Florida (Just East of Tampa, Florida)

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Tightening Up The V1 Head

helinutforever

You said:
I also placed a washer between the spacer and the flap dampers. The result was a head just as tight as the V2 head and I never had the out of track problem again.
A friend of mine also suggested the same thing to me as he had the same results as you.

Both of my R50 V1's are flying great at the moment but I think I will take one apart and epoxy or CA the bearing in the mounts and add the spacer washers between the rubber dampeners and the flap collar. He indicated the washers he used were of a diameter that was close to the diameter of the dampeners which allowed equal distribution of the load. The "goal" is to get as much surface contact on the rubber dampener as possible and take the end play out of the spindle shaft without creating any bind in the blade grip rotation. The washer thickness/sizing can vary due to the wear in the dampeners.

I think I might just machine some new (longer) flap collars with a larger diameter on the end that faces the dampener.

I will let you know how it works.

P.S. Both of my R50V1's have the head flipped. When I first starting doing aerobatics the helicopter would come of track bad at the bottom of a loop. I was using TT woodies at that time. I did the head flip and starting using SAB 600 Fiberglas/Carbon reinforced blades and have never had an issue since.

OC Bob's Gathering #2 was a Premiere Event. Pictures in my Gallery

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12-18-2003 02:22 PM  13 years agoPost 30
eric_b

rrKey Veteran

Denver, CO, USA

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Maybe the flybar paddles are misaligned, or loose enough to allow them to twist...

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12-18-2003 03:44 PM  13 years agoPost 31
w.pasman

rrElite Veteran

Netherlands

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Sounds like you have a major construction failure, maybe a wrong part maybe a construction error. I would suggest have someone well known with raptor 30 V1 do a thorough inspection. Could be anyting, some slop in the drive train, bad servo, play in a link, you put in a V2 part on the place of a V1, etc.

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12-18-2003 07:36 PM  13 years agoPost 32
skydvr79

rrApprentice

gainesville, florida, usa

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send it to me ill fix the problem fly it for a year or so and send it back
j/k it sounds like something is binding when u put pitch on the heli if it does it only when flying id put full pitch w/the motor off and hand turn the main blades see if i could feel any binding anywhere

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12-18-2003 10:20 PM  13 years agoPost 33
S_Owen

rrApprentice

Wichita Falls, TX.

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Ok, I am on my way out the door. I will let you guys know what happens!

Wish me luck!

[b]Murphy's Constant:[/b] Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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12-18-2003 10:26 PM  13 years agoPost 34
rcrebel

rrApprentice

Michigan

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I'm with wingtip. Be sure the flybar control hoops/ovals are on correctly. If they are upside down they will cause what you are experiencing.

rcrebel

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12-19-2003 12:04 AM  13 years agoPost 35
S_Owen

rrApprentice

Wichita Falls, TX.

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I know how to put the thing together (short side up on the loops) but thanks just the same. Pay no attention to my username. That was last year. I've flown more that 60 gallons of fuel since then and can tic-toc, piro flip etc.

I try to fly a few tanks every day or every other. I love the sport, too much the wife says.

Anyway. I few a few tanks through it today and all was well. I wish I would have tried one thing at a time to be little more scientific about it so I could give you the actual problem, but it seems to be flying fine now.

I have to make a run to Wally World real quick (need paper towels for the birdy's) but when I get back, I'll give everyone a full run-down of what I did.

Thanks to everybody!!!! If anybody is ever in North Texas, let me know. The beer is on me! Cheers!

[b]Murphy's Constant:[/b] Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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12-19-2003 02:41 AM  13 years agoPost 36
S_Owen

rrApprentice

Wichita Falls, TX.

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Ok.....after trying several different things, here is a list of the things I did that made it stop. I can't give you any specific thing because I did it all at once.

- Lubed dampers with silicone based model differential grease

- Greased grip bearings with a borrowed Greaser and epoxied the bearings into the grips. I used brand new bearings too.

- Bought a pair of hardened washers and installed them just outside the dampers. Now there is ZERO play in the grips.

- Re-tracked the blades. 1/4" out

- Found the bearings on the washout base were a tad loose. I replaced the entire unit, bearings and all.

And that's it folks! Now she flys fine, silky smooth. I just wish I had tried one thing at a time so I would know the exact cause/fix.

Again, thanks to everybody. It's good to have this bird back! I was kinda thinking I might turn her back into a trainer. The WIFE has shown some interest in learning to fly! That could be cool I guess, then again, when will I ever get away?

About the MPII muffler. It is a finicky thing. It needs a much richer needle but, to get the top end running right, the midrange goes super rich and no leaning of the the idle screw will take that out without the idle going too lean. I think it really needs a three needle carb to perform correctly. It's not a BIG deal, but for someone who is critical about their tuning, it could be aggravating. You can find a happy medium though. A smidge too rich on the top end and an OK midrange. I will tell you one thing though, that 32 with the MPII is the strongest motor of that size I have ever seen. I have never seen a 32 pull that hard without bogging. It's not a 50 mid you, but for a 32, you would be seriously impressed!

[b]Murphy's Constant:[/b] Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

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HelicopterMain Discussion › My Raptor 30 V1 keeps exploding!
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