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12-15-2003 06:02 AM  13 years agoPost 1
reefguy

rrApprentice

palmdale california

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i need some advice my g23 with billme needle setups, i get this really bad tail twitch about every 1-2 seconds or so, i did switch over from 89 octane to camper fuel, before it would twitch on/off now and then, i do fly at 3000 ft, and the weather has been in 40-50 degrees weather, any help would be appreciated. last time i flew was couple months ago, could the camper fuel gone bad? thanks,

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12-15-2003 06:08 AM  13 years agoPost 2
Wally

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San Diego, CA

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First some questions:

Is the twitch accompanied by an engine burp?

Is this while hovering or throughout the envelope?

What are you needles currently at?

I am thinking 1/8 turn on the low-end would be a good start.

The Big Wally

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12-15-2003 02:23 PM  13 years agoPost 3
BIGRCR

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Easley, South Carolina

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If the twitch is not accompanied by some difference in sound from the motor (listen carefully in hover), then try this. Bill Meader showed me this and it works. Take out your auto hub, clean the bearing well and re-oil it with light oil WITHOUT Tri-Flow in it and reassemble. See if it stops the twitching, I bet it does if it was not mixture induced. I re- oil mine much more often than I used to now because of this.

Hope this helps!

BIGRCR- John Garst

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12-17-2003 06:37 AM  13 years agoPost 4
reefguy

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palmdale california

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twitch

the tail twitching seems to accompanied by engine noise, i guess like oinking, its worst in hover, and still does it in-flight, but less. the only thing is different is the weather temp. lower of course. using bill's needles, then lean few clicks, just to if was too rich, was thinking of changing to a new plug, but then current plug is probably 6 flights new.
might have to check the auto hub for dryness, like big said, so don't use tri=flow?, how about sewing machine oil which is light?. any other suggestions would be helpful thanks

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12-17-2003 10:37 AM  13 years agoPost 5
BIGRCR

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Easley, South Carolina

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Automatic transmission fluid works well for the auto hub.
You did not mention how much oil you are running. A too rich oil ratio can also do this.

Later,

BIGRCR- John Garst

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12-17-2003 05:19 PM  13 years agoPost 6
reefguy

rrApprentice

palmdale california

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g23

i am running camping fuel with 2oz/gallon, does the auto hub have come off to be oiled, or can the heli be flipped updown till the oil seeps thru.

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12-17-2003 05:21 PM  13 years agoPost 7
reefguy

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palmdale california

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g23`

forgot to ask i search many posts and could not find the idle screw setting, because i turned that silver spring loaded screw, thinking it was the hight or low needle, and did not know what settings to put it back to original.

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12-17-2003 05:26 PM  13 years agoPost 8
DangerousDick

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Cheshire, England

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You can take that one out if you want, it only 'limits' the low end travel - just in case you don't want to stop it by the servo.

In my heli's I prefer to be able to stop the engine while I'm 'up there' sometimes so I just leave the screw out (weight saving aswell, not a lot I know but every little counts )

Cheers
Richard.

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12-18-2003 02:00 AM  13 years agoPost 9
BIGRCR

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Easley, South Carolina

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A good starting point will be 1 turn open on the low and 1 1/3 turn open on the high. You will most likely be at 7/8 low and 1 1/4 high when tuned, but always start from the rich side and go from there.

I always take out the throttle stop screw and save it (don't know why). Also if your throttle return spring actually returns the throttle barrel to closed, clip only the little "hook" off of the spring so that it does not return the throttle to the stop position, BUT- leave the spring intact. If you remove the spring, it can lead to premature wear of the throttle butterfly shaft as the spring also helps keep the whole mechanism from gettting loose and worn from normal vibration.

I would advise taking the hub out to oil it, it works best that way.

Later,

BIGRCR- John Garst

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12-19-2003 05:21 AM  13 years agoPost 10
reefguy

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palmdale california

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twitch

thanks guys, will try oiling the hub, also, the bearing in the hub isn't that a one bearing, i thought those kind bearing needed grease, correct?

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12-30-2003 02:50 AM  13 years agoPost 11
rbort

rrProfessor

Franklin, MA - USA

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Leave the throttle return spring on

Personally I would advise everyone to leave the throttle return spring on. What you can do is move the spring hook one hole closer to the spring itself to lessen the tension but keep the feature of closing the carb of the throttle arm comes unhooked from the servo for some reason.

Here is why:

a) The spring is not that much load on the servo and will act as a fine tuner to the throttle since it will take out the little slop in the linkage or servo itself.

b) Should you crash, the engine will shut off and you won't do the chicken dance if some certain situation occurs. It happened to me, crashed because the aileron servo wire broke, and when the heli hit the ground the battery got disconnected from the receiver and the throttle linkage disconnected from the servo (side impact on throttle side). The spring pulled the carb shut and the heli quit on impact. I got lucky there. Imagine if the same thing happened but the throttle was not spring loaded? Now I got a dancing chicken that probably won't quit until it runs out of gas or burns out the clutch.

c) While airborne, my throttle arm snapped in half (a fluke in my opinion). Engine went dead stick and I autoed to a safe landing (due to spring loaded carb). If the carb was not spring loaded, it could have been a LONG painful flight waiting for the engine to run out of gas, especially a gasser model!

I know these things don't happen often, but I am telling you this from experience. They happened to me in 2 out of 1063 flights, so the chances are slim, but having the throttle spring loaded all this time proved to be a better choice for me. I have yet to have a situation where I wished it would stay open by itself, but it hasn't happened and I'd rather be safe (engine off in case of a problem) that sorry.

You can do what you like, I'm just telling you how it is from my experience.

-=>Raja.

MA 1005 Hanson 280, 4129 flts
Spectra 27 3DMax, 3187 flts
Whiplash V1 Hanson 300, 1425 flts
Whiplash V2 Hanson 300, 185 flts

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01-03-2004 08:23 AM  13 years agoPost 12
reefguy

rrApprentice

palmdale california

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g23

now, i can't seem to get the engine started and stay on, i put the choke on, almost on the first pull, engine fires and stops(normal), unchoke the carb, engine pops to fire, but will not, check and replaced plug for the heck of it, even though its only 1 gallon old, i pull and pull and still motor will not fire and stay on, put the choke back on, fires again, unchoke no go. i will probably check the mesh screen inside the carb for clogged screen. i wonder if my coil is going bad?, any ideas will help, thanks,

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01-03-2004 03:00 PM  13 years agoPost 13
BIGRCR

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Easley, South Carolina

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First, make sure that the carb is securely mounted. If the carb mounting bolts get loose, the motor will pull air at the base of the carb and also will not get the proper pulse to work it. Also check the mounting gasket for damage or leaks.
Next make sure the needles are at a setting that will allow the motor to start, this would be for a G23 around 7/8 to 1 turn on the bottom and 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 turn on top. For the G231, this would be around 1 1/4 on bottom and around 1 3/8 on top.
Next, check the screen under the plate to make sure it is not fouled. You can burn it off with a lighter if it is the steel screen. Get it cherry red, blow it off and re-install, making sure that it is properly seated.

If the motor is running at all, I would not suspect the coil, unless it has been crashed hard and there has been evident damage.

Also make sure that the motor is actually drawing fuel and the line is full. If not, this could indicate a poor mounting, bad mounting gasket, fuel filter problems, clunk line problems or fouling of the carb internals.

Hope this helps!

BIGRCR- John Garst

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01-03-2004 04:32 PM  13 years agoPost 14
reefguy

rrApprentice

palmdale california

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g23

will check those items, thank,s

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