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HelicopterMain Discussion › Engine cuts out after a tic toc
06-22-2014 09:56 PM  3 years agoPost 1
Hamo

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Ireland

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Raptor 50 V2, OS50 engine. Header tank full, clunk in header tank perfect. Flies well. Invert for a second, then straight, then the engine stops. This started happening last week for no apparent reason. Any ideas ?
Thanks,
Hamo

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06-22-2014 10:16 PM  3 years agoPost 2
wrongler

rrProfessor

Brewerton, New York

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How old are the fuel lines?

Bill Whittaker

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06-22-2014 10:40 PM  3 years agoPost 3
icanfly

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ontario

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breather hose on top of muffler? too rich and have a lot of oil in the muffler when run, might choke the tank pressure tube

my 2 c's maybe.

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06-23-2014 04:48 PM  3 years agoPost 4
Dee Flies 3D

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Farmington Hls, Mich - USA

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Just throwing this out for you check... I had a similar 'action' on my Redline 53... Turned out to be the 'O' rings around the LOW speed needle were worn, & the vibes were causing the needle to creep closed.
Odd as it seems, new 'O' rings cured it.

Not sure on the OS how the low-end is sealed, but mite be worth a look ?

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06-23-2014 09:29 PM  3 years agoPost 5
Hamo

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Ireland

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Yes the breather is on top of the muffler and yes the mixture is on the rich side but I would never have thought of this. Is this a known problem with rich mixture ? I will adjust the mixture and try again. Good thing I learned to auto

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06-23-2014 09:50 PM  3 years agoPost 6
Ace Dude

rrProfessor

USA

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Also, make sure the fuel lines easily reach the bottom of the tank when you hold it upside down. Sometimes if the lines are left too long they can hit the rear of the tank and may not reach the fuel below. Same if they are too stiff as well so make sure you're using a flexible clunk line.

  

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06-23-2014 10:00 PM  3 years agoPost 7
Jeff polisena

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westpalmbeachflorida usa

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Old plug could cause this , you load motor then when coming off load if tuning is off or governor is laging motor loads up with extra fuel and cools plug too much . Make sure your not leaning first ,check temp when motor died .

I stole it ,flew it and gave it back ;)

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06-23-2014 10:55 PM  3 years agoPost 8
Ladymagic

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South Korea

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I've had this happen before...sometimes, the clunk inside the tank gets stuck on the sides and can't reach the fuel. In which case, you are just sucking in a bunch of oily foam from the fuel sloshing around inside the tank.

If your engines seems like it's leaning out or pinging just before it quits..then it's likely that this is your problem. In which case, just shorten your clunk line so that it can move freely inside of the tank. The clunk doesn't really need to touch the bottom of the tank when it's upside down, but it should be able to move around in he tank without getting stuck including the corners.

Also check that your clunk line isn't too soft. If you haven't changed it in a while, it will become mushy and when you start drawing fuel, the line will actually collapse on itself. This pinches off fuel flow enough and force your engine to run lean and work harder to draw fuel. A good sign of this is if your header tank empties before your main tank does. If you haven't done so already, go ahead and change it out.

If it sounds "loaded," laggy, or gargles then it might just been a simple matter of running too rich which can foul your plug. A fouled plug will still sometimes glow and look normal when you pull it out, but will fail under load. Change out your plug and check your fuel lines and your fuel filter for leaks or clogs. Reset to factory and dial in for power again.

Would also check the top of your piston for dimples, cracks, or unusually dark staining. This is usually a sign of poor fuel mixture settings or FOD in your engine and may require replacement. Check the heat sink for tightness as well. If you rarely checked these screws, they may be loose...sometimes they aren't fully tightened from the factory. A loose heat sink will cause tuning problems as well as messy leaks. If your engine is messy then it's a good idea to check.

Good luck! And i hope you get back to those tic tics soon

Mellisa

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06-23-2014 11:22 PM  3 years agoPost 9
Ladymagic

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South Korea

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Of course, that is assuming that the engine is the culprit. Without seeing what's going on it's really hard to say for sure....on the other hand, it may just be that you might be too aggressive on your collective during your transitions. If your are new to tic tics or 3d in general. this could be the problem as well.

You really don't need a lot of collective through the whole transition. If you are just powering through the maneuver, then it's possible that you are simply over loading the head and engine. Coupled with poor needle settings...it just might quit. If you do that, use quick collective pops and fly the disk over with small inputs instead to conserve power as opposed to always doing "pure power overs."

Your little O.S .50 will thank you for it and your tic tics will look very clean and precise at the same time.

Mellisa

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07-05-2014 03:52 PM  3 years agoPost 10
Hamo

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Ireland

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Update
I had a chance to fly yesterday and the engine stopped after a few minutes of hovering, forward flight and quick climbs. No inversion. I was half expecting this so had the heli high up and was able to auto down. I quickly checked the engine temperature with my finger but it was not hot.
I have replaced the glow plug since and waiting for a chance to try again. Thanks for all replies.
Hamo

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07-05-2014 06:52 PM  3 years agoPost 11
jgunpilot

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Pollock, LA

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It was the plug. It's all rainbows and unicorns from here on, Hamo.

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07-06-2014 01:27 AM  3 years agoPost 12
Glenn Goodlett

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California

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Anytime a nitro engine does not run right for with no obvious reason;

1) Replace the glow plug.
2) Replace the fuel/clunk lines.

If it is still not right, at least you got those two "out of the way."

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07-06-2014 02:57 AM  3 years agoPost 13
Twrecks600

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Round Rock, Texas

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Might be a long shot but I had a baffle in a muffler that was bad (loose) once and everytime the heli got into a certain orientation, the engine cut out.

Team me

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07-06-2014 05:45 PM  3 years agoPost 14
Hamo

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Ireland

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Update. It was the glow plug
A new glow plug fixed the problem. I tried to load the engine by doing quick ascends, tic tocs and flips and no problems.
The old plug was actually very old, like maybe 3 years old, but it looked clean and the filament was intact, the engine started quickly and idled OK. Can someone please explain how or why a good looking plug can be responsible for the engine stopping when loaded.
Many thanks to all for their input.
Hamo

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07-06-2014 05:58 PM  3 years agoPost 15
jgunpilot

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Pollock, LA

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The coil can glow and look good when static, but if there is a crack or the coil itself is deteriorated (from a lean run or contaminants) it won't do its job properly.

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07-06-2014 06:54 PM  3 years agoPost 16
Twrecks600

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Round Rock, Texas

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3 years old??? Holy smokes!! You definitely got your $$$ worth!! I usually replace mine every 4-5 gallons just to be safe. I would hate for my machine to be on the deck and the engine quit.

Team me

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07-06-2014 07:38 PM  3 years agoPost 17
Hamo

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Ireland

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3 years old but hasn't seen 4-5 gallons of fuel. I would guess 2 gallons max in the 3 years. The weather here in Ireland is not good for outdoor activities. Often very windy and rainy, that's why Ireland is so green. I also fly planes, mostly electric.
Hamo

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07-06-2014 08:39 PM  3 years agoPost 18
Twrecks600

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Round Rock, Texas

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Wow!! I hit 4 gallons about once a month when I was flying my 600N. Now that I have a 700N, i'm hoping not to exceed 4 a month as I now have 3 other electrics to fly. It gets costly pretty quickly

Team me

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