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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › H-19 600 size vacuum formed
06-17-2014 10:48 PM  3 years agoPost 1
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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I've been in scale rc helis for a couple of years now and I thought I would post some info and pics of my projects. This is my first effort at posting so bear with me while I get proficient with it.
I'm starting with my vacuum formed Sikorsky H-19. I used the drawings found here on runryder and enlarged them with my copier. I also used the Italeri 1/72 model for reference. I carved balsa forms and made a vacuum forming setup that I copied from a U.K. website called XRobots. It used a simple electric room heater and stand and vacuum table made from OSB.I used .060 styrene for the main fuselage and .030 for the tail boom. I found that you must wait until the HIPS gets to about 305 degrees F. to get a good result.
The mechanics I used are Thunder Tiger X50E fbl which are well made, light and easily available. I'm using a Scorpion 4035 - 450 kv and 13 tooth pinion at 12S and this seems to work well. I made a wooden sub-structure to fit the fuselage to the mechanics. The total weight came out to about 9 lbs.
The electronics are Spektrum AR 7200bx and they work well.
I used Krylon Fusion paint and it really works well on the styrene. I found that Mercury CA holds the styrene together extremely well.
I'll be happy to give more info and pics if anyone wants. Bob

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06-17-2014 11:09 PM  3 years agoPost 2
Heli143

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Phenix City, Alabama

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Bob, this sounds so interesting and I'm sure all the scale heli nuts would love to see your project, so post pics please!!

Roy Mayoral

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06-18-2014 04:37 AM  3 years agoPost 3
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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I hope the photos get posted correctly. I'm sorry but I'm new to this and will try to get better.

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06-18-2014 05:08 AM  3 years agoPost 4
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here are some additional photos showing the inside and the new fuselage by itself

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06-18-2014 11:49 AM  3 years agoPost 5
chopper37

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NJ and Long Island

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Very cool, well done!

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06-18-2014 02:05 PM  3 years agoPost 6
Sleeper

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Cincinnati, Ohio, USA

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Well done Bob. Regards, Gayl

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06-18-2014 04:38 PM  3 years agoPost 7
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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That's one super cool project, well done!!
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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06-19-2014 12:08 AM  3 years agoPost 8
R.J.

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SF bay area, CA USA

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Looks really good! Congratulations on a very unique project. Looks like a lot of work involved. What does the vacuum form setup look like?

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06-19-2014 12:14 AM  3 years agoPost 9
eric_b

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Denver, CO, USA

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These helis are really neat, lots of detail, the plastic work is impressive, and they are light and durable. Bob is a real craftsman, and every time I talk with him he has something new he's working on that I've never seen modeled before. Can't wait to see your new one at the field!! Which reminds me, where are the pics of the Pitcairn?

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06-19-2014 03:50 AM  3 years agoPost 10
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Hi to all you guys and thanks for the compliments. I'll take some pics of my vacuum forming setup and get them posted. I'll also get organized and post my Pitcairn PA-33 autogyro-helicopter. Bob

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06-19-2014 07:40 PM  3 years agoPost 11
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Hi Guys,I took some pics of my vacuum forming setup to show how I do it.
This is my home made heater box. It's 24 " tall and 20" square. It's made of particle board and the aluminum foil helps disperse the heat more evenly.

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06-19-2014 07:54 PM  3 years agoPost 12
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here you can see the electric room heater that is about a 1300 watt quartz rod type that I got at Lowe's for about $50.00. I removed all the plastic housing it came with and just used the heating portion itself. It takes about 7-8 minutes to get the styrene up to forming temp.

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06-19-2014 08:00 PM  3 years agoPost 13
Grimracer

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Eau Claire WI

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I dont know.. I have been a model builder for years and this is one of the funest reads in some time..

Super well done...

Grimracer

Michael J Zaborowski

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06-19-2014 08:02 PM  3 years agoPost 14
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here you see my vacuum table which also made of particle board. It's also 20" square of course. I cover various portions depending on the shape of the form to concentrate the vacuum or actually the atmospheric pressure push. I keep my timer and infrared heat thermometer handy.

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06-19-2014 08:14 PM  3 years agoPost 15
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here you can see the shop vac hooked up. I take the paper filter bag out to decrease resistance. Here in Colorado our elevation is almost 6000 ft. In the summer our density altitude gets over 9000 ft. As a result, I can only get about 5 or 6 " Hg. of vacuum. In winter, our density altitude is more like 3000 to 4000 ft. and I can get more like 7-8" Hg. vacuum.

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06-19-2014 08:20 PM  3 years agoPost 16
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here you can see the 2x2 frame that I staple the styrene to with 1/2 in. staples.

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06-19-2014 08:26 PM  3 years agoPost 17
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here's the vacuum table ready to go. I use spacers under the forms to get a deeper pull with no radius on the edges. That's just plain weather stripping along the edge. Again, the duct tape just helps the vacuum concentration and changes with whatever form I using.

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06-19-2014 08:30 PM  3 years agoPost 18
xcellgasman101

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WOODWARD, OKLA....

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Very well done,,, Congrats, Looking forward to the next project!! XGM/VGM

John Crotts
www.soonerhelicamproductions.com

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06-19-2014 08:48 PM  3 years agoPost 19
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here's the form on the vacuum table with a 12' ruler for reference. I'll take a moment to point out some things about the form itself. Vacuum forming was all new to me when I started a couple of years ago and I was just experimenting so I used a lot of scrap pieces of balsa to save the expense of balsa blocks. This caused a lot seams and even though I used aliphatic resin (sandable) glue it still shows up in the finished piece and therefore makes a lot of work (sanding and filling) on the finished plastic to get a decent result. I learned from that and on my latest project, which is an H-34 Seahorse like I got to ride in when I was in the USMC back in 1961, I used 3x3 balsa blocks and saved a lot of time and effort. I use balsa because it is a good compromise of ease of working and strength. A model boating friend of mine uses a plaster cast of the wooden (or anything else) form. The balsa has to be "unfinished" or just bare so the hot styrene doesn't stick to. I do use wood filler sparingly and let it cure for at least a day or else it will also stick to the hot styrene. By the way, I use HIPS or styrene because it takes paint very well. ABS is fuelproof but harder to paint and I only fly electric helis.

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06-19-2014 08:57 PM  3 years agoPost 20
seahorse bob

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Arvada CO

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Here the plastic piece has already been trimmed from the holder and I just placed it on the form. It takes a lot of cutting and trimminmg to get the pieces in good alignment. I use masking tape to hold them together and CA in some pieces on the inside to hold them together permanently. Almost surely it will be necessary to fill in places and I like the Tamiya filler as it doesn't seem to shrink as much as others.
That about sums up my process at this point in time. I hope I keep learning new methods to improve it. Let me know if there are any questions about all this

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › H-19 600 size vacuum formed
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