RunRyder RC
 5  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 3864 views
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterHIROBOOther › SHuttle ZX Conversion To FBL 120DEG Swash HV​DIGITAL
12-21-2013 01:18 AM  3 years agoPost 1
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Whats out there that'll make this ting pep up and get pretty with a non stock look regarding the muffler?

Lookin cooler every day now. Finished most of the head link convert to fbl and began to remount and link up the servos one by one. I need a servo tester first. Tank is back in, have to fab a custo base and hook up for a motor run, its moving ahead slowly but surely. Every nut, bolt, and screw will need the thread lock before it leaves the ground, sometime in the coming year.

here's the fbl out of the old parts conversion.

It's come along a lot further with the turnbuckles and links all done now. A few tweaks to set 0 pitch and servo throws, sooee.

An Alu head will drop the rotor height down a couple of cms later.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-21-2013 01:38 AM  3 years agoPost 2
TMoore

rrMaster

Cookeville, TN

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Are you seriously going to use tie wraps for a proper swash puller?

Delayed Response Operator Not Engaged

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-21-2013 02:25 PM  3 years agoPost 3
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

no no no, they were temporary to see how much room the swash needed first. Glad you picked that up. I will post an updated photo soon. I found a nice big set screw and drilled out where the follower hub has the most plastic to put the screw there. The set screw is holding the follower hub on the shaft nice and tight.

First upgrade would be alu grips front and rear. Easier to get a fbl hub with attached follower links. nothing major. This definitely ran a heavy nicad battery to balance it, the shuttle is still quite tail heavy without fuel and a batt for the e parts.

A little tail dis/re-assembly revealed a sticky slider and loose grip bearings. Crank to slider point is a loose spot. This thing will have to be tightened up some before I would put a lot of faith in it. It's a good lesson to see how things were done a while back.

Best not to make too much lemon ade.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-21-2013 03:19 PM  3 years agoPost 4
fastrc1

rrKey Veteran

Brooklyn, NY-USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I've seen more white knuckle stuff than that but just can't remember where.

Eaton

RIP Roman Pirozek Jr.
Team SRW Comp
Zeal Blades U.S. Flight Team
Team Futaba

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-21-2013 09:25 PM  3 years agoPost 5
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

and a big viola on the conversion with most everything from swash balls to linkages set up. I had to shave a mm off either side of the follower hub to keep the links from hitting them during swash events. you can see the grab screw, and a couple of spacers will be added on the follower cranks where the legs attach,

The servo links are adjusted and all I have to do is test the servos, hook them up and have some power to the entire group to make sure it's all right, then some thread lock on everything. Those Ti links are quite the bonus act at $5 originally $13, very lucky sift at the local hs, exactly what was needed.

A little cf/kevlar/ca/epoxy will re-enforce the present set of non thrust grips for the time being (one is cracked at the blade bolt from over tightening).

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-21-2013 11:19 PM  3 years agoPost 6
dcasole

rrApprentice

Dacula GA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Ur really not going to fly it with a crack in the grip are u ?

There are plenty of places to get parts for a shuttle and the grips are cheap

Dave

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-22-2013 01:52 AM  3 years agoPost 7
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

not a chance on a flaw like that

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-22-2013 02:01 AM  3 years agoPost 8
payne1967

rrElite Veteran

uk

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

for the swash driver the trex 500 one fits the shuttle

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-26-2013 01:30 PM  3 years agoPost 9
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

good to know.

Tested all the servos and all are functioning normally, now how do they connect to the rx that's different than an e heli. If I went from left to right, heli forward, servo one would be throttle, 2 is collective (aux1), 3 is rudder, 4 is aileron, and the servo on the right side (heli faces forward) is pitch (elevator). Swash plate is attached to the servos and travels have been checked, all is as it should be.

Now, does battery, I have a cc bec, go into Batt on the rx. The rx is a AR7100 (?) with satellite. Pic forthcoming. Next is to change all the links to metal balls on the servo horns.

Seems the battery I need has got to be a heavy 200g+ out on the nose some to balance this heli. Had a 2200mah hanging out front to check, I know nicads would do the trick.

I may just get it running in a week or two with the time I have on my hands these days.

One thing I can tell is that a tail pitch slider slides better on a shaft that is polished compared to one that is not. The manufacturer could not imagine this would 3d, and I don't intend to do more than flips or loops with it if that.

update: I just got off the bench after polishing the tail shaft, making sure the crank worked smoothly, loosen'd and cleaned all the tail pitch links, then hooked everything to the rx/bec/tail gyro to make sure all the servos were plugged in and functioning on the heli correctly, with great success. Discovered a washer was missing on one pitch crank as it was tight, and replaced several balls. Next step is to finish and tighten up the tail and head, loctite or ca every ball, clean the motor and check everything before installing it, and fab some trays up front for the rx/sat, gyro, battery, and anything else it may need. The bulk of the machine is a few steps from ready, yahooee this may fly soon enough. I'm making a drone style canopy too, hehe, gonna be cool to get it going.

Oh yea, I did see there's some after market mufflers out there for the Shuttle OS32 motor, not expensive either. Alu head, swash, and tail first.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-27-2013 02:14 AM  3 years agoPost 10
Isaac F

rrKey Veteran

Panama Republic of​Panama

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I use to have several Hirobo Shuttle and the Helimax Tune Pipe will give live to that OS32. Check Tower Hobbies, I am pretty sure they have it.

Also, the Weston mini pipe is also and excellent choice! Not sure if you can still get this one in USA...... Maybe you can order from UK. They made a model for low or hi nitro....... so if you going to order one, make shure you let them know what % nitro you will use.

You can see my Hirobo Shuttle with this mini pipe on my gallery. Also my Hirobo GPH 50 with a Weston Mini Pipe. I am a true beliver of this pipe You need to hear the engine screaming with this pipe and making a lot of power and you will get in love with it.

Speed of light is greater than speed of sound. Some people seem very bright until U hear them speak

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-28-2013 12:10 AM  3 years agoPost 11
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

great news there Isaac F thanks.

After taking the plastic tail clamps apart it appeared they were loose because the only bearing(s) in them is a thrust set. The shoulder they rest on on the hub is slightly longer so I put a shim washer on first and tightened the nylock nut short of stopping the clamps from binding. A touch of ca on the exposed threads will stop the nut from coming loose after the nylock has lost it's grip.

Bought new servo arms and ball links, the tail will take a 1/8 cf rod directly from tail servo to crank. I may mod the crank to accept a ball on the slider rather than the stock 1/16 rod, not hard to do at all (or an upper rod and the crank is made a fork with bent plastic or aluminum).

The os32 will need a heavy soaking in old fuel to de-gunk it before it gets closed up. The fan has 2 opposing blades broken and it'll work if balanced, to test the motor, though a new fan is in-expensive and budgeted as a future purchase.

Had all the servos, bec, and rx working properly and in order last night, next is the gyros and final re-assembly. I used to mess with cox .049's a very long time ago and know enough about 2 stroke tuning from rebuilding some 125/250 motor/mx bikes a few years back, glad to hear the os 32 can be pepped up with a pipe, that makes it worth sticking with.

It has come to me that a nitro bird is better than electric in cold weather, bought my first liter of nitro fuel, in a v-e-r-y long time, today.

The Shuttle is not a badly made product, relatively in-expensive, and has been educational in learning how things were done 20 years ago. 20 years ago there was no such thing as "3D". This ZX has negative pitch and enough to do inverted, it's got potential. I'll be eyeballing a Mikado or Mostro 500 after the Shuttle is flying nicely.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-28-2013 03:30 AM  3 years agoPost 12
Isaac F

rrKey Veteran

Panama Republic of​Panama

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

icanfly,

I personally think that the Shuttle is one of the best of the best heli ever produced. I am prettu sure that many learn to fly with a Shuttle.

I learn to fly with a Shuttle and that heli is a trouble free one. You can crash it hard and it will cost you 60.oo a crash kit that include all you need with wood blades!

I went tru 3 engines with my original shuttle and the Shuttle lasted long time. I just need to put a new engine. First engine was a Enya then OS32. With the Tune pipe I put to scream that engine with a sweet sound :-)

I was using 550mm Carbon Fiber blades with hi head RPM.....Just make sure to keep in eye on the plastic blade holder for cracks........

You can make all pirouetes with this heli but is a little tail heavy. Maybe you can set up the header tank in the nose to compensate for this.

Good luck

Isaac

Speed of light is greater than speed of sound. Some people seem very bright until U hear them speak

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-28-2013 07:37 PM  3 years agoPost 13
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

yes,

if someone made a 21mm cf boom it would lighten the tail considerably. I may adapt an over or undersized cf boom if I have to. I think a 4s 7.4v 2000+ mah battery set up front about 2 inches of the servo arrangement will balance the heli with the aluminum boom.

Just came off the bench after setting up a cf tail pitch rod, the servo crank ball and link places the ball link right up against the frame where the servo is but loosely and the servo does not throw the tail pitch link all the way without more throw added in the tx. Set up the main swash links and servos to get 10 degree pitch at full throttle/pitch, aiming for more however. The turnbuckles are showing their usefulness when an upper link was turned half way reducing blade pitch .5 degree. The turnbuckle will be very useful to set precise tracking afterward.

I'll use the wood blades until I prove the Shuttle's airworthiness. An Align gp780 is the tail gyro and 2 GWS pg03 rate gyros are on the pitch and roll servos. A Tarot zyx-s, Robird, whatever 3x gyro would have been less expensive.

My 450's are beginning to look micro sized every time I get into the Shuttle and look back at them.
.Just make sure to keep in eye on the plastic blade holder for cracks........
I'm looking into replacing the clamps with aluminum ones, not exactly a retrofit. There is a method of building up the plastic clamps in such a way with Kevlar/cf tow/ca/epoxy that the clamps will never crack, they do because of over tightening more than anything else. I feel it's possible to put some brass sleeves in the clamps to prevent cracking, a large diameter washer top and bottom will be needed to bridge the sleeve and plastic when it comes time to bolt the blades in. Small incremental improvements overall will make a big difference in the final outcome of the Shuttle's fly-ability.

Here we go, left side

right side with GWS's taped for orientation sake and components dangling because they are going to be mounted on the front plate knowing now everything is ok and works. rx is ready for a sat but wire will have to be a longer variety to run the sat out back.

tail squared

a closer look at how far to the left the hub has been moved to line it up with everything squared at the horn and servo, I get equal l/r throw with the hub placed here, a flat spot was filed for the grab screw.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-29-2013 01:30 AM  3 years agoPost 14
Isaac F

rrKey Veteran

Panama Republic of​Panama

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

a closer look at how far to the left the hub has been moved to line it up with everything squared at the horn and servo, I get equal l/r throw with the hub placed here, a flat spot was filed for the grab screw.

I remember that the last time I order a upgraded a tail output shaft with metal sprocket for my shuttle or GPH 50, it come already with 2 holes in the shaft in order that you can set up the blade hub to sit outer or inner. I am not sure about the part number but it look like you fix it doing a flat spot on the shaft

Since I was using a upgraded shuttle tail pitch slider this fix my L&R pitch throw. Check my pics.

Make sure to check Quick UK, they have plenty of after market parts for the Shuttle, including aluminum blade holders

http://www.quickuk.eu/cat/hirobo_parts/shuttle.html

Isaac

Speed of light is greater than speed of sound. Some people seem very bright until U hear them speak

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-29-2013 02:37 AM  3 years agoPost 15
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

nice, and thanks for the link there Isaac, lots of nice upgrade parts. I like that you upgraded only what was important. (your pictures are very small)

Another possible way to correct the poor hub placement is to push the shaft on the belt pulley over to the left by the correct amount.

To lighten the tail end some I will opt for ti bolts and screws all over the tail instead of the many long steel ones. Did this to my 450's with success. They should cut the tail weight down considerably as the metal bits and the tail shaft (excessive length) are the heaviest things there. I would fab a new HOLLOW tail shaft if possible, hollow to lighten it, shouldn't be hard to do. Might mess with the idea of Chinese weights.

It is a consideration to hang the tail servo on the boom or mod the mounting plate placing the servo further out, this would allow a longer horn giving the tail more pitch. An aluminum plate could work to allow this. I suppose a tail servo with more throw than 60 degrees would also be helpful.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
12-29-2013 02:47 AM  3 years agoPost 16
Isaac F

rrKey Veteran

Panama Republic of​Panama

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

nice, and thanks for the link there Isaac, lots of nice upgrade parts. I like that you upgraded only what was important. (your pictures are very small)
you can see large pictures in my gallery

Speed of light is greater than speed of sound. Some people seem very bright until U hear them speak

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-02-2014 04:28 AM  3 years agoPost 17
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

ok, saw them there Isaac,, good stuff.

So here's what an elf got himself into the past 2 days

As a reference this is a 300zyx tail housing I cf/kevlar/epoxy/ca re-enforced realizing it could also be molded a bit to make it look like a part and not a sloppy repair. There's a piece of aluminum molded in because the original section was lost,

Now then in the order of importance, time to put my rebuild skills to better use like the grip of Shuttle. There's a reason they crack here when the bolt is tightened to hard. The valley inside the grip which otherwise is intended for slipping the bearing in is also spread apart as the blade bolt is tighten toward the center, and it cracks. A heatgun on med/low heat relaxed the plastic and a vise kept it there as it cooled. I filled the valleys in later as part of the cf re-enforcing stage while leaving enough room for the bearings to fit in the sides and be revolved into place,

Here's what I have to work with, long story and a catalogue of progress photos later (not shown att)

and I'm halfway after wrapping with the kevlar and cf strands pulled from the cloth to wind around the part around and around a few more times tacked on with the ca, then adding epoxy and later filling to reshape the grips a little before binding and epoxying on the final cf cloth finish laminate. a link arm broke too, got the same treatment, what is done on one side must be duplicated on the other side to maintain head equilibrium, makes it stronger before it breaks in mid air,

AS you can see the cf cloth makes an enviable finish while providing additional strength to the final part. The repair was done in stages where the final cf cloth was wrapped onto a shaped and sanded grip and saturated with 15min medium set epoxy heated with a heat gun. That's how the epoxy will flow like water into every fiber and cure while the part cools. A final filler coat of epoxy was applied in similar process, left to harden, the excess cf cut away with exsacto knife, the grips sanded nice and smooth with 240 sand paper, and the grips given a moderate finish of Acrylic clear coat. I could have gone a step better by clearing with polyurethane auto clear which I have, the acrylic is enough.

vowalla, grips are much stronger than originals and were checked for equal weight before cleared,

All things considered, I have an autodesk inventor programmed comp, but the software must be ancient, can't do half the stuff I was doing in photoshop, but there lack 3d and vector files.

For now everything is going to be "OLD SCHOOL" mates. Going to make my own follower arms next, why mess with the oem's.

Not far from completion, motor clean details, fan, install/prep for test run, electronics/gyro(s)/battery tray fab and install, glow stick, fuel in tank, check check check nothing was over looked, nothing loose, and (?????) a few pulls of the starter.

Plastic can be a bother, it'll crack and you won't see it, the heli wil fly normally, and then for no apparent reason the cracked part breaks while heli is airborne, and down comes your nice machine breaking many more parts, gal dang it oye.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-04-2014 09:01 PM  3 years agoPost 18
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

little update. had to fit a sleeve on the clutch bell bearing, crazy where the aluminum tube came from,

and am about to cut mounting plates for everything electronic, Motor is fixed in, glow plug fitting attached, fan, housing, just a throttle control rod, get igniter, and zing,

How many turns of the idle needle valve should I begin with (1.5 turns out, where it is now?) No I don't plan to forget the throttle return spring, I bought a few last year.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-04-2014 10:58 PM  3 years agoPost 19
dcasole

rrApprentice

Dacula GA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I have an os 32 with a hatori pipe
Running 30 % nitro the needle is at 1 1/4 with a 1700 head speed
Less nitro, close the the needle

20 years of flying never used a return spring ..good servo , good links , no need for it
If its to tight you will cause a load on the servo

Dave

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
01-05-2014 01:11 AM  3 years agoPost 20
icanfly

rrElite Veteran

ontario

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

The throttle arm is moving very loosely on the motor as it should. Spring is added insurance to minimize a catastrophe.

1 and a 1/4, will do. Do you run a ball link from servo to throttle arm or a c style connector from the arm and a ball on the servo, or a c grip connection on both ends of the throttle rod?

Lines, tank, igniter, go, that close.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 3 pages [ <<    <    ( 1 )     2      3     NEXT    >> ] 3864 views
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
HelicopterHIROBOOther › SHuttle ZX Conversion To FBL 120DEG Swash HV​DIGITAL
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 5  Topic Subscribe

Wednesday, November 22 - 7:20 am - Copyright © 2000-2017 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online