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Helicopter
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Blade
Blade 300 › Blade 300zyX, many mods, 450 gears, Rakon, Turnigy 4400kva , 6s
10-14-2013 01:34 AM  4 years agoPost 1
icanfly

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ontario

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Here's a short list of things to mod and how to make your own wood/fiberglass blades from 325's.

What it looked like before i began flying it, with the Tarot ZYX-S conversion, no problems at all to report. That's an Align 250 cano and my own rudder fin. Boom fin is off, might make a teenie one later. The cano is loosely fitted on in the pic. The chassis cano mounting posts fit the original 250 cano holes but it's too tight, The holes would need to be moved back 1/4" to fit comfortably with stock batt. A little duct tape on the inside of a new set of holes would strengthen them and or more fg to strengthen the tabs. I've designed an all new cano so the 250 will stay as is.

First we got the weak link in the main drive line, the hardened shaft breaks at the bolt hole to the pulley. I don't mind that going over other things,

Here's how I made some wood/fiberglass blades from 325's. Cut back 2.5 inches to make the blades 10". and back cut where the clamps will go, very simple but they're a little tight in the grips. not to worry,

Had to balance them with a bit of electrical tape.

You must drill 4mm and 5mm holes 8mm from the leading edge and 12mm apart. I use the original as the template to get it perfect so the plastic grip retainer fits exactly.

Here's the 450 tail clamps, they aren't thrust like the originals but that is not a problem because I did not tighten the screw real hard, just put a tiny little RED loctite in the bolt holes on the center bit, fit's in perfectly and ohh so simple, you can put longer blades in now because the blade screw holes are closer to the tail shaft axis,

And the piece de resistance, my under tail servo placement with hs digital metal gear servo. Fried the original and it became a donor for a roll servo today,

Oh yea, I find the original skids are a pos. I leveraged them in the back to tilt heli forward a bit and may chuck on alu tube 450 skids soon, or at least when these break, too flexible.

One aspect to plastic parts I've discovered is kind of a good thing is that you can repair the resin parts with cf cloth strand and ca aka crazy Glue. That or 5 minute epoxy glue. One technique I use with ca is a plastic bag on my fore finger to press the ca saturated cf onto the part without getting my fingers stuck. THE PLASTIC DOES NOT STICK to the ca. Had to repair some grip stems yesterday, better than new.

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10-15-2013 11:23 PM  4 years agoPost 2
icanfly

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ontario

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A recent crash netted another broken shaft , broken guide, broken frame, and dented boom.

Not one to wait for and spend on something I can repair like the guide, I made it better than og with some cf sheet I have, ca'd it to the base of the original and added some cf fiber with ca as the adhesive, works incredible and I beefed it up at the base by extending the beveled lower area that rests on the plastic above the servos,

I repaired an old set of 450 skids with the same technique but with regular fiber glass,

I originally had this set up to run a satellite but could not source the cable between the gyro and sat so I went with my 6115. When the cable is acquired the 3 big wires will be removed for a cleaner gig.

And here's the dreaded frame break everyone who lands hard experiences, already ca'd back together,

I have a choice of making a frame brace or building up the inside of the frame with cf fiber and ca as the adhesive. Thing is, it'll need the guide stiffened because the section it attaches to is weak. The frame brace will have to bolt on to the guide screw at it's base to stiffen it.

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11-04-2013 11:43 PM  4 years agoPost 3
icanfly

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ontario

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so I got around to making a frame brace which bolts up at the motor and back to the idler wheels for the belt and up at the guide as well as where the body mount stem goes,

Put a cf boom and swapped the old mot for a Cyclone MiniPunch car 4 pole 300watt mot with 11 tooth pinion, at 70 percent it really spins fast and the motor has no bogging, going to be a crazy little 3d'r. Those skids cracked again so another set from a new 450 got made up. The aileron roll servos got upped to kst 215s and a little plastic on the frame at the bottom of one servo mounting tab had to be removed to allow them to fit comfortably. A small 2mm washer was also needed behind one servo towards the front to allow the bell cranks enough clearance for up and down freedom of movement.

Sad to say those fantastic 30mm wide cf blades hit a tree yesterday because I didn't get out from behind it fast enough. That was after some very close proximity flying between the branches of a pine and close in to a fence and shrubs, as long as nothing hits shes golden, and that's what fine tunes the senses, near misses amid obstacles.

Another annoying thing has creeped up, a miserable tail vibe has made spool up very unfriendly. It could be because of the cf boom. something's not cool with the tail and I hope it is resolved without removing the cf boom. I may extend the supports first.

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01-10-2014 03:13 AM  4 years agoPost 4
icanfly

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ontario

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well folks here we are agian as I was looking forward to flight with mine 300zyx recently but due to a soft impact with my blades the main gear stripped, a replacement has been in the wait. Meantime I put lots of time into a certain Hirobo Shuttle rebuild.

So why am I dropping into this thread now? because, that's why. Actually this is important in some respect as the parts on my shuttle that I did not want to wait to replace I fixed using a simple method gained knowledge on while repairing the 300.

Take a peek at this tail housing,

and now these grips and cranks,

ca/cf/kevlar/epoxy and they were wrapped several times then saturated with the epoxy, shaped out to their final form and the grips got cf wrapped while the 300 part was painted. I discovered it is best to do the cf/ca/ting before the part breaks because the tiny fibers in the part's plastic matrix are not given the chance to break then a repair. The way I wind the kev/cf makes the part stronger by a lot.

I found some sanding necessary where build up might inhibit a moving part from it's original freedom of motion.

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04-11-2014 03:14 AM  4 years agoPost 5
icanfly

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ontario

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Here we are again with a heli that has taken as much time chasing the bugs out as the 450 before it, long story.

After putting in al KST115 servos it is stable as all can be, an is really fast in terms of pitch and roll, got myself in and out of a lot of crazy saving, like only this afternoon when it was ready to flip all the way a few feet from the ground.

It seems a weak link on the 300x (to be 300cfx) are the upper links. Because the swash pulls the grips mostly and in an event the blades touch something the links are pulled apart and the link end breaks open. What did I just do tonight? I put 4.9mm balls on the grips and swash and spun some links on the original threaded link rods, amazing. I purchased some RAKON grips which I believe are the best out there and the 7 ball thrust bearings speak well of the product, as well as perform very well.

I think my servos draw too many amps for the esc and the pitch servo has pitched forward while shutting off and restarting either the gyro or itself. Somethings not right, could be the crappy bec in the 25amp esc doing this and I can certainly try a cc 10 amp bec to find out.

The motor is not all bad with a 10 tooth pinion minimum, and it's under a higher load with wider 450 cut down blades. I pitch pumped this aft and the heli reset but not before shutting while in full up and forward pitch rising 30ft highand dying in power then descending and coming on at the moment a tree branch caught it on it's way on to the ground. That's when I put the 4.9balls and links on. A spool up without and with blades showed everything perfect.
Pics to come

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04-13-2014 04:10 PM  4 years agoPost 6
icanfly

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ontario

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Here are the 4.9 balls on the grips and the swash also has them on,

The links are from a 450 and proved invaluable last week when my 300 went into a tree and also cut out while in full up pitch coming down into a tree branch before hitting the ground. Man did it look lovely up about 30ft. Some things on a heli deserve to be "UPGRADED".

In case your wondering about this "Tree" I mention all the time? It's an Apple tree in the further back portion of my backyard fly space and sometimes its just hard to judge the distance in the evening. I fly around it all the time, even when it's windy.

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05-15-2014 10:16 PM  3 years agoPost 7
icanfly

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ontario

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back to the laboratory, after using the old oem motor and esc for the better part of about 8 months now and since the bearing closest to the gear had become loose, this is what will happen if you don't replace the motor or the bearing at the very least, see the cracks at the center shaft spokes on the bell? top one in the pic is the one that started things,

It began to make a horrid noise and the tail was wagging with increasing frequency when I reined the heli in to inspect it. The bell had spun to one side where the magnets started to rub the stator and the bell began to rub the mounting plate, lower right hand side inside the bell. When I tried to bend it back it cracked the other two spokes. This is what will happen.

I re-installed the mini punch and a platinum hobby wing esc, re dialed the esc with a very soft start and have a 11 tooth pinion, holee. This combo proved to be 3d ready as a few pitch pumps in the re-test from 20 ft up and pitch up needed very little collective management, the mini punch motor has got umph baby. Now the motor is only a 2 pole four magnet motor I'm running at 73percent throttle in idle up and 75 in st1. The kv on the motor is around 5700 and I'm powering it with 11.1v lipos. Timing is on 15kz (?) and it sounded VERY SMOOTH with a slightly no lash gear mesh.

Hope your having as much fun with your 300.

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08-26-2014 01:35 AM  3 years agoPost 8
icanfly

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ontario

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after kerplunking the heli from 6ft up accidentally flicking into st2, WHAM, on the ground pitching the battery and canopy off and breaking the lower half of my 300, I decidered to make some new cf lower side frames. Here's one side,

I moved the tail servo to this location under the main gear, to better protect it and add forward cog, it's a nice thing. That's a 450 slant cut main gear on a slightly custo 450 one way hub set and had to file the motor mounting holes more forward by a couple of mm. The motor sits full forward on the mounting plate. Lowered the main shaft too by about 8mm to get the heli to look more realistic and perhaps fly better, it does but it's not as noticeable as the rubber dampers I made for it (order yours today black rubber or purple urethane, lol).

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09-04-2014 01:43 AM  3 years agoPost 9
icanfly

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ontario

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got a new Rakon shwash plate for my 300zyX, works really fantastically.

A bearing in one of my grips was loose and it was changed this morning. With shortened 325's this heli has lots of chord and that motor can pull it out of lots of things. It's in a scale body so I don't get to see the fancy cnc things. The 300 is a nice fit for my 45'/2 space in the back yard.

Crashed immediately after the package for the swash came in yesterday evening, ran heli right into a tree while doing a good banked turn around it, miss judged the space. It got the over haul and swash plate right away. Broke the main shaft at the gear.

What I didn't say yet was my custo fabbed main shaft is 8mm shorter than stock and the swash barely uses more than half the shaft space to do what the servos command it.

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09-06-2014 06:33 AM  3 years agoPost 10
icanfly

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ontario

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didn't really want to bump this but have I got something for you,
man my little 300 made me very happy this aft, then I let it go into a garage wall because it was in the way so I got to fix it, the heli. Finally stripped a slant cut gear, broke blades, shafts bent, it's ok, it's the nature of the beast. this was this evening. What changed? I failed to correct a very vibey rotor head and it took off funny, for the first time I held it to the ground in negative pitch in st1, then brought it up full rpm, head was too buzzy, I still forged it through, bad idea really.
I spent a solid 2 hrs fixing every detail while also making a newly mod'd part. When you crash these things you quickly find out where the weak spots are, and I try to make things better. I'm considering a 5mm shaft and actually may adapt the drive line system to 450, forget the Align tail drive gears. To make the shaft 5mm I already have bearings and an Align dfc hub wich will have to be shortened by about a cm total to have the same hub width as oem 300.

The flight I mentioned consisted of multi piro-ing in all the corners and at times the heli blade were 90 to the ground. What feels amazing was all the sim time paying off, my reactions were not fighting to see where corrections take place but to ride the heli out, dance it around. I had the 300 close to things, fast circles,8's,pitch pumps, fun.

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09-20-2014 02:35 PM  3 years agoPost 11
Mitchilito

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Morehead City, NC USA

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Ican, your posts put a smile on my face. You are having entirely too much fun with your toys.

It reminds me of the days when me and BobWho (you out there, Bob?) used to do this kind of thing to our Blade CP's and it was some of the most fun I ever had in the heli hobby. But to be honest, now I could NOT be happier with my 300x and cfx very nearly bone stock.

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10-20-2014 04:53 PM  3 years agoPost 12
icanfly

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ontario

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this might make your smile a bit wider, I shoved a Leopard hobby 3500kva motor in yesterday wile waiting for a 4380kva no name from ebay, no matter this Leopard motor is fine fine and amazing at near 100% throttle I was pleasantly surprised. Yesterday morning I tested it out for the first time and got my 300 in to a tight situation in the backyard, going nose into the ground and back toward a garage from a vertical pirouette near overhead and close to a tree. Ech-chem, full throttle and collective and whoosh just inches from the ground in 3d style heli is redirected away from harm with inches to spare, shyt happens in tight spaces.

If you do something like this try to keep the motor weight down to not much greater than 60 grams, especially if you want longer flight times while using an 1800mah lipo as seen in this pic,

(top of the Leopard motor was polished after it was scratched in earlier use on a 450).

The Mini Punch car motor was not right for the 300, had to turn the throttle down to 65% max, it heated up considerably, and when I had it at 80% it puffed the two 1800mah lipos I use in the 300, daym.

The Leopard motor runs cool to the touch at 96% throttle with an eleven tooth pinion turning the 121 main gear, putting the head speed around 3800 on average, and it's plenty to toss the 300 around in 3d. I' have to try a 12 and 13 t pinion in the future or put in the slightly heavier 4380kva bl mot I'm waiting for. That motor is 67grams while the Leopard is 64grams and about 5mm shorter in height too.

This was a VERY SUCCESSFUL MOD, and I was also surprised when I weighed the old Mini Punch at 73grams. Considering I have 4 alu case servos adding 40 grams and a tail section adding at least another 20 grams, and the 1800mah lipo another 25gr on top of that, anyway it works real well in high wind, you have to keep the tail speed up to give it lot of bite, My self made tails are 50mmx1.5mm wide on a trex 450 tail shaft and belt gear. I tried some shortened 450 tail blades that worked pretty good, seal up the cf edges with ca or epoxy so they don't splinter or fray, solid plastic tail blades are easy to shorten without concern afterward.

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03-01-2015 01:26 PM  3 years agoPost 13
icanfly

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ontario

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here's the latest development, seems the Leopard 3500kva mot was tired from heating up too much and I had ordered this 4400va mot back last summer but never put it in till now. dropped one tooth from 11 to 10, torque is definitely up rpm ever so slightly up, flight times same,

and that's a Castle Creations Talon 35amp esc powering it, very nice and subsequently quieter combination while the mot is only 5gr heavier.

Crazy, yesterday I gave the heli some back yard testing and at one point when the heli was coming toward me I accidentally flicked throttle hold. Through the air and to my left the heli sailed as rotor speed diminished hitting the snow bank gently while sinking in a little. After I checked everything and restarted it to fly out the remaining battery juice it went into low battery mode and then all of a sudden stopped while about 2 ft from the snow. I have to program the cutoff to be a lot slower when I get the cc link soon, can't have it falling from the sky. Battery was checked at 3.3v per cell.

------------------------------

6s?

Now can you imagine since I have the Talon 35 what I can do with putting a 2500 kva 6s motor in? Just have to buy batteries and fortunately the local hs has 850mah 3s so I'll have to series two to get 1700mah? WHAT? holee freaking amazing, yeppers while the rest of you will have to do with what else is available which is not a lot and much fewer mah from a short read on hf regarding a oxy3mot thread there.

You know what, that from a flight test yesterday of my 300 in the backyard going very fast 6s is not necessary, the combo in it is plenty powerful size to weight and all that considered.

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03-14-2015 07:21 PM  3 years agoPost 14
icanfly

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ontario

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Can't really show much more these days other than my customized round cons switch from deans.

lost about 2 whole grams,man,,,,,, wow, lol. The simplicity of this method and the lack of spark is worth it, wires are about 1.5in from the lipo and 3.5 from esc (which could be shortened to half that, even less if I soldered the male device cons to the esc board and placed the esc up. My 450 has the same thing and the red/black are left/right side so no confusion over what color goes where.

fun, next is to exchange the 3m cons on the esc/mot for 2m

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Helicopter
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Blade
Blade 300 › Blade 300zyX, many mods, 450 gears, Rakon, Turnigy 4400kva , 6s
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