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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Scale "Tip of the week"
03-07-2017 09:34 PM  8 months agoPost 81
fastphil

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LaPine OR and​Quartzsite AZ

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Good Tips Captain, i'm sure all of us will have an occasion to use them!

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03-08-2017 02:44 AM  8 months agoPost 82
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca.​USA

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Hi Roy, been there done that... sucks doesn't it!?

Jim: great tips, which reminds me of another. I'm going to add one on the same lines as yours, but with a twist. We use a lot of titanium allens in satellites. It's a gummy material and the screw heads strip fairly easily. When we have a "problem child" fastener that won't come out, we pull the fingertip of a rubber glove tight over the wrench tip (pardon the description, like a condom) and cram it into the head of the screw. The glove fills the void and allows us to remove the screw. I know, sounds crazy, but it works...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-30-2017 06:33 AM  7 months agoPost 83
helirocky

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San Diego, Ca. USA

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"RIVETS"

I think this "TIP OF THE WEEK" is only one of your great ideas Barry, thanks.
Hi every one, I have a question about rivets. I have a pre-painted fuselage and I want to know if there is any way to put rivets on with out having to re-paint the fuselage?

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03-30-2017 11:34 AM  7 months agoPost 84
garyl

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taxachussetts

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Yes formula 56 will go on top of the paint using the glue dot method and will dry clear.

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catag...CFZCKswod76UC4g

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03-30-2017 12:28 PM  7 months agoPost 85
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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BUMP, and will take laquer to finish
It is the best way when masking and painting, there is no need to worry when paint has to straddle rivits, and raise the tape, causing bleed
Peter R

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03-30-2017 09:28 PM  7 months agoPost 86
helirocky

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San Diego, Ca. USA

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ok, thanks garyl and PETER ROB for the link and tip, I have an old fuselage to try it first and learn "the glue dot method" technique

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03-30-2017 09:57 PM  7 months agoPost 87
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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It sounds simple?
With a few precautions it is
Do not use pencil to apply your lines, the clear glue acts like a magnifying glass
I use paper masking tape and mark the rivit spaceing, lay the tape edge close to your required line then spot your glue
Start with the longest runs then work down, you can keep using the same tape, until it becomes unusable that is
It is a long process but very theraputic once you are in the groove
Peter R

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03-31-2017 12:21 AM  7 months agoPost 88
helirocky

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San Diego, Ca. USA

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yes Peter R is simple enough, I did my first line in an old fuselage and it looks good, now I'm getting the blue tape and I will mark the spaces,also I'm getting a good amount of my favorite music to listen while I'm doing this, it looks like its going to take me some time (days?)

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03-31-2017 01:06 AM  7 months agoPost 89
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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You are on your way
Do not forget to post the progress photo's
Peter R

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03-31-2017 03:04 AM  7 months agoPost 90
helirocky

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San Diego, Ca. USA

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Here are my first rivet lines as a practice on the old fuselage...

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03-31-2017 04:13 AM  7 months agoPost 91
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca.​USA

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Thanks Helirocky, much appreciated.

Gary and Peter: Thanks guys, great info and I just learned a new trick!
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-31-2017 08:01 AM  7 months agoPost 92
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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How easy and effective is that
Be aware that a rivit is 1/4" or 6mm in diameter thats full size, you need to divide that by the scale of your heli to achieve the correct scale
I have seen some major scale riviting where the rivits are too large and detract from the rest of the work on the rest of the helicopter
Len Mount told me that to get more height to his rivits he used to have a fan blowing across his work area, to get them to dry quicker
It is also possible to use fine baby powder to thicken the mix, again do not add too much as it will be difficult to get through your syringe needle
You can change your semi dry rivits to screws by pressing the centre with the appropriate screw driver head,
Peter R

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04-02-2017 03:54 AM  7 months agoPost 93
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca.​USA

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Great info Peter!

Here's another trick when building vario drive shafts. Put a red magic marker witness line on the shaft. Then when you snug the set screw it will leave a mark. This is where you dremel the flat for the set screw. It's much easier than guessing.

Another tip: Invest in a quality tubing cutter. It makes it easy to cut the stainless steel tubing for the drive shafts.

Here's another easy tip. Make a pvc X frame for working on the tail boom. It holds the boom securely and makes the job easier.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-02-2017 08:29 AM  7 months agoPost 94
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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Barry, Just read your last post,
Vario supply aluminium inserts to put in the ends of their drive tube, when you tighten down your grub screws into the shaft with insert, the shaft distorts enough to give the purchase required to lock the coupling to the shaft
Taking the, insert in shaft, further, instead of filing a flat, you could drill a hole through the shaft/insert and use a longer grub screw or even a roll pin
I have never had a shaft with insert let go in any condition

If you use the cutter/ insert, you will need to file out the resulting burr caused by the cutter
Keep building
Peter R

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04-02-2017 05:40 PM  7 months agoPost 95
garyl

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taxachussetts

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If you want to make real clean cuts in tubing get this http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-M...ter-Cut-Off-Saw

I have one and it works great with the abrasive cutoff wheel installed.

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04-02-2017 06:46 PM  7 months agoPost 96
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca.​USA

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Good info Peter. Your version of drilling a hole for the set screw is another good solution.

I always use the Vario supplied aluminum inserts in the drive shafts. The reason that I dremel a small flat, is that it won't allow the coupler to spin under any circumstance other than a tail strike (then all bets are off). It also doesn't distort the tubing.

Gary, that is one Bad A$$ little miter saw! The beauty of using the miter saw is that it gives a very squared off cut and requires less deburring of the inside of the tubing after the cut is made. Awesome tool!

Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-03-2017 12:47 AM  7 months agoPost 97
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca.​USA

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Here's another one:
I had to cut the 11.5 inch long door tracks into the fuse today. So I used a couple strips of .020" thick aluminum sheet metal as guides for the diamond wheel. I taped them in place, then hot glued them for cheap insurance. When complete, just peel the strips off and hand finish the slots. What you get is super straight and even slots in the fuse. You still have to use caution and go slowly, but it's way better and following a line free hand...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-03-2017 11:56 AM  7 months agoPost 98
garyl

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taxachussetts

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Good one Barry! I have a hot melt glue gun but I rarely think to use it for things like that.

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04-05-2017 01:16 AM  7 months agoPost 99
aashu

rrKey Veteran

scotch plains, NJ

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Aluminum insert

While installing the drive shaft , I lost one of the aluminum inserts. I had one of those flex shafts from Starwood lying around I cut them to length and glued them in

Garden State, NJ

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04-05-2017 01:01 PM  7 months agoPost 100
co_rotorhead

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Centennial, CO, USA

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yes Peter R is simple enough, I did my first line in an old fuselage and it looks good, now I'm getting the blue tape and I will mark the spaces
Just a thought, but maybe you could do the taping and marking at the same time with this:

http://www.measureittape.com/

I've never used it, but it seems like it would be an obvious time-saver for accurately placing rivets.

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