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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Scale "Tip of the week"
05-24-2016 09:28 PM  21 months agoPost 61
TailKiller

rrApprentice

Panama City, FL

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Home made Swash Follower / Driver
I'm building a 700 AS350 and the rotor head that came with it is Fubar!!
So I ordered a new Century Diamond 3 blade rotor but it doesn't come with the swash follower / driver, and the one they sell separately is pricey.
So I was racking my brain and looking through a lot of old parts when I came across a couple of 600 flybar washout blocks with the radius arms. They are for 10mm shaft. But I noticed that there was a brass sleeve in the center. Hummm! If I can remove the sleeve will it be 12mm? Yeaper, it sure is.

It was easy to modify, Knock out the sleeve, cut the flange off the washout block, cut the radius lever arm behind the bearing and round off the end.

You secure it to the shaft be putting a screw back in the screw hole that held the other radius arm lever and it will engage the shaft tightly. You need a shorter screw then what was there with the lever arm, or you can drill an tap the side of the block and use a set screw.

Here's some pics.

,Dennis
http://pcrcheliclub.com/
700 Astar Super Scale T-600 Bell 206 Trex 600 Naza H DX8

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05-26-2016 06:28 PM  21 months agoPost 62
budblade

rrNovice

Cincinnati

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Using what you have lyin' around
Nice!

Always looking for the expiration date

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05-27-2016 06:19 PM  21 months agoPost 63
Copter Doctor

rrProfessor

Enterprise/ft.rucker ,al- home of army aviation

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That's the way to do it! Awesome!

drive a rotary, fly a rotorcraft

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07-31-2016 08:14 PM  19 months agoPost 64
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Here's another valuable tip from a friend of mine and amazing scale modeler from England named Paul. His handle on SRCH is HerefordHeli.

He has an awesome process for weathering and it looks so realistic that it's hard to tell it's not real. I have copied and posted his thread with permission:
------------------------------------------------------------------

I used a new product for me called 'Abteilung 502' in black and brown mixed with Odourless Turpentine to make a thin wash. This I applied liberally all over the model with a large brush (scary) and then wiped most of it off with a kitchen towel. I then went back and painted over all the panel lines/rivets with a thin brush to make them more defined. This is very similar to the technique I've used before but in the past I haven't done the scary part of putting the wash all over (which actually was no problem in practice) and with the turps you can effectively reactivate the Abteilung (which is much like artists oil paints) and remove it from areas you don't want it or where the panel lines are less than perfect on first attempt. It drys quickly and doesn't affect the acrylic based paint scheme. Its available in many different shades and I recommend it!

Abteilung 502 and Abteilung Odourless Turpentine

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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08-01-2016 12:31 AM  19 months agoPost 65
Dr.Tim

rrElite Veteran

Mojave Desert

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I used Pencil Lead and Turp. then rubbed the area with a dry towel until you get effect you wanted. Your method might be easier to do .. I like it Barry ..

From Simple minds come simple ideas! Approach Engineering

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08-14-2016 06:08 PM  18 months agoPost 66
DARTHTAC

rrNovice

brooksville, fl. u.s.a.

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like the idea OF "TIP OF THE WEEK". and, yes, i'm an old dog who can still learn a few new tricks. here's one I've used many times on airplanes as well. for some of the "high drag" items hanging on airframes, I've used construction paper soaked in ca. you can pre soak a sheet for flat panels or cut and bend to shape, then soak in ca. for really complex shapes, I've water soaked the parts to get those radical shapes done. once dried, soak them in ca. whats nice about this procedure, is that, it's cheap, easy to pre test a part for fit, can be sanded nicely with 320 grit, takes primer very well and you can make a lot of panels with just one or two sheets of paper.

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08-16-2016 01:14 AM  18 months agoPost 67
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Darth, that's a very cool idea, I'll have to give it a try some time!

So here's another scale tip while I'm in here: In a scale machine the tail servo is often hard to get to. So I've found that replacing the bracket hardware with allen screws makes the job easier when it comes time to remove the servo. You can get the wrench in by "feel". Also, putting the tail servo as far forward as you can, will help remove unwanted tail weight. (I wish this trick worked on ladies too)...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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08-17-2016 04:57 PM  18 months agoPost 68
Dr.Tim

rrElite Veteran

Mojave Desert

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I actually provide laser cut panels from paper for my Apache Kits I produce.

From Simple minds come simple ideas! Approach Engineering

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08-22-2016 08:27 PM  18 months agoPost 69
goodhunting

rrApprentice

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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OK my time to contribute...

I was looking for a good way to make rivets.. that would look the same and I found the answer in my buddy's build.

I use the little nail ornaments in the shape of the domes. I use 1mm and 2mm domes which correspond to the rivet size in 1/7 scale...
It is a tedious job and it is a "relaxing methond" but once done it looks like the real thing..

gh

Application takes time...

I use modeling glue to fix the little domes...

But the end result looks convincing...

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08-27-2016 02:11 AM  18 months agoPost 70
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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GH: Very cool tip! Thanks for contributing. We need to ruffle a few "old timer" feathers in here to contribute and keep the great info flowing! I've noticed the same questions get asked over and over and over again in the scale forum, so I opened this thread to help people who are just getting into scale...
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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08-27-2016 06:54 AM  18 months agoPost 71
goodhunting

rrApprentice

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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Barry

Maybe we should clearly state that if anyone has a question about how to do something he/she can feely ask in this thread. Perhaps this will start the converastion flow once more...

Sometimes people take things for granted that others are struggling with...

Klem

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09-07-2016 08:07 PM  17 months agoPost 72
goodhunting

rrApprentice

Slovenia ... somewhere in Europe

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So another big thing with "rivets" is keeping a straight line and evenly spaced rivets. To achieve this I use a blue masking tape and I draw even intervals (5mm apart). This enables me to keep the lines straight even on the curves and to evenly space the rivets....

gh

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09-08-2016 03:43 AM  17 months agoPost 73
GyroFreak

rrProfessor

Orlando Florida ...28N 81W

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Cheeze guys, this is really a great thread.
I recently bought a $350 laser cutter for my clock making (but around $900 after upgrades to make it useful) and cutting plastics. Thought this would be great for making scale flat parts such as instrument panels out of plastics (or card stock, or thin wood, or balsa).
The attached picture shows some parts for a clock. The card stock (white) is a test for a coil form end piece. The smallest holes are 0.750 mm dia (.030 inches). Now when I do my scale model this cutter will get a lot of use.

.
Anybody wanting a scale IP cutout, pm me and see if I could do it, no charge out of card stock, or if I have the plastic required on hand.

I think about the hereafter. I go somewhere to get something, then wonder what I'm here after ?

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09-08-2016 05:05 PM  17 months agoPost 74
GyroFreak

rrProfessor

Orlando Florida ...28N 81W

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Here is a made up sample of an IP.
Measures 24mm wide by 18 mm.
Could do any size up to 180mm X 260mm

SD card for relative size.
Cutting time, 4 secs
Heavy card stock 2 mm


Backside

I think about the hereafter. I go somewhere to get something, then wonder what I'm here after ?

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09-08-2016 10:35 PM  17 months agoPost 75
PETER ROB

rrElite Veteran

Devon UK

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laser cutting 2mm spruce ply
You will find that you can cut ply with your machine
just keep making pass's until you are through
Peter R

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09-08-2016 11:19 PM  17 months agoPost 76
GyroFreak

rrProfessor

Orlando Florida ...28N 81W

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You will find that you can cut ply with your machine
just keep making pass's until you are through
Correct. On thick plastics of 6 mm I have slow the speed down and make multiple passes.
On 6.5 mm Baltic Birch ply it takes about 5 passes to get a clean cut.

I think about the hereafter. I go somewhere to get something, then wonder what I'm here after ?

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10-24-2016 01:12 PM  16 months agoPost 77
cobieg

rrApprentice

Florida

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Ok, I have one that happened to me this weekend. The windscreen on my 500C got a little melted. It about blew off the table it was sitting on so, I tossed it in my chair not thinking it being in the sun and it melted a little bit. I swear I thought my stomach was going to turn.
I did the old foamy airplane trick and used a pot of almost boiling water. Set it in where the spot was to get it soft, and then worked it from the inside with my thumb/fingers. I got about 99% of it out. I think I can live with it rather than replacing it. Sorry, I didn't get any pictures of it.

Ron

I didn't crash. I just ran out of airspeed, altitude, and ideas all at the same time!

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03-05-2017 11:26 PM  11 months agoPost 78
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Good trick Ron! Glad you got it sorted out.

Tip of the week: Bond your blind nuts in place. If you've ever had a blind nut pop out on you when you were trying to start a screw, then you haven't been in the RC hobby long enough I use a high quality adhesive like Hysol or BVM aeropoxy (same stuff)on all of my builds. Regular 5/30 minute hobbypoxy gets brittle over time and will probably fail on you... at the worst possible time.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-07-2017 03:22 PM  11 months agoPost 79
Heli143

rrElite Veteran

Phenix City, AL

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Thanks and +1 on the last tip Barry!!

I learned that you are right on this one from experience. Had a tail rotor blind screw come loose from the wood due to using epoxy.
I now use Hysol to secure parts/woodwork, etc as recommended

Roy Mayoral

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03-07-2017 03:54 PM  11 months agoPost 80
coptercptn

rrElite Veteran

Mesa AZ. USA

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Here's my "donation" to the thread...
We have all become frustrated when trying to remove "Allen head" screws with a wrench that has rounded off..?
My simple fix is to "dress" the tip on my belt sander.. it just takes a touch and you get nice "new" edges in that Allen wrench!
Also, along those lines... got a grub screw slightly rounded out? Take the Allen wrench that "almost" fits it, chuck it up in a vise, And heat it with a torch.(I use a small plumbers torch w/MAP gas)
Now tap it (squarely on the end) with a small (flat faced) hammer. This will "balloon " the tip and give you that little extra you need for a tight fit to remove that pesky fastener!!
Oh, and don't forget to throw the screw out when you do get it removed.....
Hint #3.. I paint the slightly oversized wrenches w/red paint...

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Scale "Tip of the week"
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