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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Scale "Tip of the week"
01-19-2014 07:11 AM  4 years agoPost 21
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Thanks bud Here's another tip: before you cut the windows out of the scale fuse, sand the window bridges and do your filling/sanding of the seams. This will prevent you from cracking the thin bridges while sanding. Also, Dremel makes a really cool diamond coated bit that makes shaping the window radiuses a breeze. It's Dremel PN 7144 and looks kinda like a toothpick, but it's coated with diamond dust. Here's the link:
Barry

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accesso...l.aspx?pid=7144

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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01-20-2014 04:33 AM  4 years agoPost 22
heliVoY

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NJ

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Dremel tools are great ... the best add on i got for my dremel was a pedal speed controller. I feel like im so much more versatile and efficient now at cutting, shaping, drilling, countersinking, etc ...

like this one ..

http://www.beautywests.com/winfootp...eedcontrol.aspx

~V~

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02-10-2014 03:35 PM  4 years agoPost 23
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Loctite For Wood and Plastic!!!!
Barry saw this reply,in another post and reminded me to add it to this thread!!

Canopy glue is excellent for installing windows in your scale heli.. It dries clear and you clean up with water...good stuff.

BUT
I also use it on screws going into anything other then metal.. it keeps them from vibrating loose and easy to remove the screw if needed..(Barry came up with the Loctite for Wood!!)

If your looking for it at you LHS it is made by PACER and is Formula 560

Give it a try the next time out... pretty amazing how well a white glue can work..

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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02-16-2014 09:35 PM  4 years agoPost 24
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Good one Stan

Tip: Using goldenrod for the tail control rod.

Goldenrod is great if set up properly. The first order of business is to use support bulkheads at regular intervals along it's length. Second, make gentle bends in the rod. You don't want to unduce any friction between the inner/outer sections.

The third part of this tip is something that I came up with on my huey build. I had a bunch of squirm in the rod and it was causing my gyro to hunt and giving me a slow tail wag that just wouldn't go away. So, I took the threaded rod out of one end of the inner goldenrod and found a piece of solid carbon fiber rod that fit right down the middle of the inner rod (.050-.060 dia). I inserted it, then re-installed the threaded rod and it worked like a charm. It added just enough rigidity to the inner rod, and eliminated the squirm. Be sure to cut the carbon rod approximately 1/2" short, this will eliminate any bind in the rod.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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02-16-2014 10:16 PM  4 years agoPost 25
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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Stabilising Golden rod
I put the Golden rod inner and outer, inside thin wall brass tube, this stiffens it up no squirm
Cut down on the number of bulkheads as well
Also softens the bends
Peter R

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02-17-2014 12:37 AM  4 years agoPost 26
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Hi Peter, it sounds like the brass tubing works well and uses fewer supports. The carbon inner rod version has an added benefit, it supports the inner rod where it exits the outer tube, but it still allows the rod to bend just enough to handle the arc of the tail pitch slider. I just like this version because it's so simple, easy to install and it works.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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03-31-2014 04:04 AM  3 years agoPost 27
stunt4fun

rrApprentice

So Cal - usa

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Wow there are some killer pointers on here.

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04-05-2014 03:27 PM  3 years agoPost 28
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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I just wanted to share this great source for carbon fiber raw materials. I have bought from them before, the quality is high, prices reasonable and they ship quickly. They have everything from raw materials, CF sheets, sandwich panels, carbon rod, carbon tubing etc..
Barry
http://www.cstsales.com/index.html

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-05-2014 03:41 PM  3 years agoPost 29
helifinance

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Royal Oak, MI

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Barry,

I follow this thread and love it. Its super helpful to me. I'm new to scale building and doing my first build on the other thread, HF, simply because its easier for me to post pics there: 430 turbine.

As a newbe may make a request... how to make doors or hatch panels in a fuselage where there are none so they can open and close and look "factory". I've saw them done on another forum but they show the before and after and not the details of how.

Example: My 430 has room for the luggage compartment as on the 1:1 and I've drawn it out but it would be nice to be able to make it a working compartment where I could house lighting controls. So yes it wont be as deep as the 1:1 but it would be neat to have. That said, its a very tight compartment so the door seam would have to be really precise.

Even if you can't help with this request, thank you for the tips! Ray

N5c TT | Forza 700 | Bell 430 Turbine

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04-05-2014 05:18 PM  3 years agoPost 30
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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I don't think Barry will mind
There is no easy way to achieve what you are asking, no quick fix
Whenever you cut through the fuselage you are always going to get a gap, at it's smallest the same width as your cutting tool
Ideas have been posted in the past
One of the tips was to use a cutting knife blade in a soldering iron to get a hot knife
if you have a steady enough hand and can cut the radii corners, this is probably the most straight forward method
Peter R

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04-05-2014 05:27 PM  3 years agoPost 31
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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A couple of ways to do that...
I use a "Hot knife" which is nothing more than a soldering iron made so you can insert a #11 exacto blade in it. Ace hardware sells them for 19.95$.. let the blade get "toasty" hot then take your time and slowly let the blade cut through the fiberglass. This will give you a very fine kerf..
If you don't like this method, you can cut the opening (anyway you wish). Then save the part you cut out (door), and use it for a plug. You can then fiberglass over this (Make it larger) and then trim it to fit your opening for a precise fit. Add your hinges, and a magnet or two for a latch.. whalla!!!!

Here's a rear panel I opened up for my 500E;

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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04-05-2014 06:14 PM  3 years agoPost 32
helifinance

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Royal Oak, MI

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Thank you Peter and Copterptn.

I'm on the same path as I used the hot knife method, what I was missing was the internal structure which I can kind of see on coptertn's rear door section.

It looks like you line it with wood to reinforce it then install your magnets. Is that what you guys are doing? If so can you take a few close up pics of that?

Again, thank you for the responses. Ray

N5c TT | Forza 700 | Bell 430 Turbine

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04-05-2014 06:40 PM  3 years agoPost 33
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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Then save the part you cut out (door), and use it for a plug.
If you intend to go this route, then use the helicopter as the plug, before you cut the doors out
This will ensure an exact fit for the door you form, and can be fitted precisely
This method can be used for all the hatch's openings,
Think about what you are going to need then cast them all at the same time, when the fuselage is new and shiney
Then when you rub down for paint you will clean off any residue

Peter R

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04-05-2014 06:47 PM  3 years agoPost 34
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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I started this thread to help the new guys that are coming into the scale side of the hobby and to get the experienced guys to chip in their "tribal knowledge". That way we old dogs can all learn a new trick from time to time. That being said, the thread is open to all contributors

The above info regarding the doors is great stuff! I'd like to add another twist to the story. I agree with Peter, it's fairly tricky to cut the doors out and have it turn out nicely, but as Jim (and many others) has proven, it can be done with great results. The hard part is making the door jam, so that the door has something to shut solidly against. The trick to this is fairly simple: Apply car wax or mold release agent to the outside of the fuse where the door is located (prior to cutting it out). Polish the wax so the surface is shiny 2-3 coats (apply more if required). Cut out a couple layers of fiberglass (enough to go at least 3/8 of an inch beyond the cut out section), then mix some resin/hardener or 30 minute epoxy and lay the FG cloth over the outside of the fuselage door section wetting it with the resin/epoxy, making sure to work the air pockets out as you go. Now let it cure. After it cures, pull the hardened cloth off the fuse and trim the edges nicely. This will be the mold for your new door jam, or you can simply use it as a finished piece. This piece will be bonded on the inside of the fuse and will be the new door jam. Cut the door out, make all the edges pretty, then hold the new jam inside the fuse behind the cut out hole that you made. Trace the door opening on the FG piece, then remove it. Draw a line 1/4 in inboard of the line that you traced for the opening, this will be your cut line. Cut the hole out, then bond it to the inside of the fuse and you now have a door jam for the door to close on. The 2 ply piece is not perfect, but is flexible enough to conform to the inside of the fuse. Make sure you clean the mold release/wax off the outside of the fuse prior to painting it.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-05-2014 07:09 PM  3 years agoPost 35
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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I've also used .030-.040 styrene for door jambs...make a template and cut it to fit. this way you can have slots/openings for the hinges...
(Note that this was to get it flying and the doors/jambs were not finished/trimmed yet)...

You can see on the front "Avionics hatch" where I slipped the magnet in .. (You can do a lot cleaner job but I was trying to get this thing in the air... )

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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04-05-2014 07:15 PM  3 years agoPost 36
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Good idea Jim!
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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04-05-2014 08:09 PM  3 years agoPost 37
helifinance

rrNovice

Royal Oak, MI

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Gents...

That was exactly what I was looking for. I know, seems simple but I was not sure how it was being done to get the form exact.

Many thanks, Ray

N5c TT | Forza 700 | Bell 430 Turbine

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04-06-2014 02:15 AM  3 years agoPost 38
eyefly3d

rrApprentice

magnolia tx

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Barrys way of waxing the fuse works great. There is a simpler way by just using glad wrap. Tape it down on the fuse large enough to cover the area of the hatch then lay the glass on top as Barry described. I'll agree with the guys that it is much easier to make the hatch/door before cutting it out.

Chris

I don't always fly helis, but when I do I prefer to fly scale.

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04-06-2014 09:15 AM  3 years agoPost 39
PETER ROB

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Devon UK

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There is a simpler way
Remember, if you use any type of separating agent other than polished wax, you will start to give yourself problems
You are trying to replicate part of the fuselage, and it's finish, smooth, shiny
any crease, lump, imperfection, will be, replicated in the casting you take off, then use as the mould
I am not sure what glad wrap is,(being English), but I use an industrial cling film, or kitchen cling film as a separating agent if I am going to form the part I want, by layering up a couple of layers of epoxy mat, with the finish on the last layer
But I have found that anything other than wax/polyester mould release, tends to distort ripple, not a problem if it is on the inside, but a big problem if it is the finished mould face
Peter R

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04-06-2014 12:19 PM  3 years agoPost 40
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Mounting Magnets!!!
We are using a lot more magnets in our builds, and sometimes, they get mounted inside, underneath, or in between things, and not always a matter of just adding a bit of glue and dropping it into the proper position...
I ran into this problem while working on my latest project, and trying to figure out how I was going to hold the "hidden" magnets in place...
I could reach around the back side to place it, but had no way to hold it... then that little light came on...I took another magnet and placed it on the outside of the fuselage, and then, inside, I got the magnet that needed to be mounted close and it just jumped into the proper position... WOW.. this was really a nice trick.. THEN I thought, how do I glue it now that it is where I want it... I put a light pencil line on the fuselage to position the outer magnet, and then just slid it out of the way, and that also moved the inner magnet... I put a little epoxy on the interior, and then slid the outer magnet back into position...and you guessed it, yes it put the inner magnet right in the center of that little pile of epoxy.. and just to make sure that I captured it really good, I moved the outer magnet around a little in each direction and this spread the glue and got it around the inner magnet.. once cured, just pull the outer magnet off and there you have it.. no getting epoxy all over everything!!!!

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › Scale "Tip of the week"
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