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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › OS Regulator Assembly
08-02-2013 10:43 AM  4 years agoPost 1
pitch black

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Hey guys,

Anybody pulled apart the OS Regulator assembly for a good cleaning before? I'm rebuilding my carb and that's the only thing left unassembled.
I do know that some guys say to leave that thing intact, but really how complicated are the internals?
Any tips?

Thanx!

Slope Soaring not a Crime

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08-03-2013 05:28 AM  4 years agoPost 2
CF1

rrApprentice

Olympia, WA

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I'm very interested too. Has to be just a diaphragm.

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08-03-2013 06:20 AM  4 years agoPost 3
pitch black

rrApprentice

Singapore

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That was what i was expecting too.
I suspect mine might be clogged up. I used a syringe with nitro just to see if everything was clear, and the regulator did create quite abit of back pressure before releasing the nitro into the rest of the carb.

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08-03-2013 11:30 AM  4 years agoPost 4
mystar60

rrVeteran

Clifton, NJ

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I have opened the regulator before. It is not complicated inside. You have 3 parts - the two halves of the body and a diaphragm.
If you do open it, you have to watch the orientation of the diaphragm, as well as not to pintch the outer edge when re-assembling.

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08-03-2013 01:14 PM  4 years agoPost 5
unclejane

rrElite Veteran

santa fe, NM, USA

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Agree, it's not complicated inside. But IMO don't take it apart just to take it apart. If it's working fine and not running over or having any other problems, leave it be.

The most common problem is debris getting into the valve seat. It has an extremely eensy little spring loaded valve in it that is even more extremely easy to plug up. You MUST use a) absolutely operating room cleanliness when plumbing the fuel system for the first time and b) a fuel filter in line with the fuel supply line.

The diaphragm is the most delicate part and is not available as a user-serviceable part. So if you damage it (or actually anything in the regulator), you have to send it in to HS and hope they don't charge you a significant fraction of the cost of a new one to repair it .

The reg itself is pricey at $100+, so don't go in there unless you absolutely have to .

LS

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08-03-2013 03:00 PM  4 years agoPost 6
pitch black

rrApprentice

Singapore

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You got it right on pricey.
I'm really hoping it isn't anything in the regulator too, since i've got everything else torn down.
Can't quite determine whether it's the regulator down or something though.

LS, you mentioned the valve seat, care to share which exact part you are referring to? I'll pay more attention there.

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08-03-2013 03:56 PM  4 years agoPost 7
unclejane

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santa fe, NM, USA

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The smoking gun on the regulator is fuel pouring out of the carb on shutdown, or a slobbering rich running especially in the hover.

If it's not running over like that, it's probably ok.

As for the needle/seat, it's just a tiny spring loaded needle/seat deal with an arm extending out. The diaphragm pushes on that arm to open the needle valve. Not sure how it actually works, but that's what it does.

If you're trying to clean it out, you can push gently on that arm to open the valve. Then gently blow/suck through it using some spare fuel line attached to the inlet nipple like normal. Or you can gently force fuel through the open valve to try to dislodge it.

I've done it twice on two carbs, but with poor results. One continued to leak and I had to send it back to HS for repair. The other, well, I just sent it back to HS just to save myself the aggravation .

But like I said, if it's not leaking or really running erratically, etc. it's probably fine as is.

LS

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08-03-2013 04:17 PM  4 years agoPost 8
pitch black

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Roger that, fine tooth comb it is.

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08-04-2013 05:24 AM  4 years agoPost 9
CF1

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Olympia, WA

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When you send in is that the entire motor or just the regulator?

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08-04-2013 07:34 AM  4 years agoPost 10
pitch black

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Probably just the regulator.
Issue with my engine is, after a not-that-long hiatus, it dosn't wanna start.
Tried everything, thus the tear down, seems like the regulator isn't sucking fuel into the carb.

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08-04-2013 11:34 PM  4 years agoPost 11
Toddc72

rrNovice

weed,ca-usa

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The metering arm,needle and pivot shaft plus spring I bet comes from Walbro carbs. They look identical. The diaphragm itself I wonder if it the same size as the YS one? Looks the same type of setup. What may have happened is the needle is stuck in the body with oil gluing it in kinda. Another issue if the fuel is pouring out of carb if it may happen? Is on my engine the needle erodes the rubber tip at an angle on it which will allow fuel to not seal and pour out. Yes this is s gas engine but we use the Walbro carbs on the motors we build.

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10-30-2013 04:22 AM  3 years agoPost 12
ssrobzoom

rrKey Veteran

Tn

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Why doesn't Tower Hobbies sell a diaphragm replacement for the regulators ?? If you have a YS Engines, they service these parts and are very reasonable.

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10-30-2013 05:05 AM  3 years agoPost 13
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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after a not-that-long hiatus, it dosn't wanna start.
Tried everything, thus the tear down, seems like the regulator isn't sucking fuel into the carb.
You may want to look for a stuck piston ring (no, or little compression), a stuck or bad check valve, or leaks in the plumbing everywhere.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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11-02-2013 09:12 AM  3 years agoPost 14
pitch black

rrApprentice

Singapore

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Definitely,

Engine is in tear down, LHS refuses to get my piston ring in..

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11-03-2013 02:19 AM  3 years agoPost 15
dodgeboy

rrApprentice

slidell, LA

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unclejane, would a faulty reg cause a lean run?
i ask because i was hovering my os105 to see if i fixed a electrical issue for a warmstart on my vbar. when i got into a hover, it sounded weird, like way rich. then all of a sudden, the sound cleared up and headspeed jumped up. i figured what ever it was cleared itself up. about a min later i could hear the head speed start to drop and then it shut off. walked over and the motor was so hot i could touch it for even a second. it smelled funny and i could hear the fuel boiling as it entered the motor. i havent torn it down yet to see what the damage it. the only thing that was changed was the vbar unit. nothing on the motor was touched.
another thing... from the get go both mid and high setting where way low. im running 30% fuel and my mid was like 1/2 turn out and my high was about 3/4

Empire hobby, Gaui USA, OMG servos, Cyclone Blades

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11-05-2013 02:40 AM  3 years agoPost 16
dchekas

rrKey Veteran

Farmington, CT

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Unless it's 100+ degrees out, there's no way your high speed needle should be in at 3/4. That's far too lean from most of the setups I've seen and run, especially running 30%.

The OS regulator is very simple. The most common mode of failure is for debris to stick open the inlet valve, resulting in a VERY rich engine as mentioned above. This will not damage the engine in any way, and is relatively easy to fix yourself.

Were you seeing any of these symptoms?

Team Align, Team Futaba, Team Byron Fuels, Team Thunder Power

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11-05-2013 06:18 PM  3 years agoPost 17
dodgeboy

rrApprentice

slidell, LA

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unless it was stuck from the get go and would make sense why i had my high speed needle so closed. then if it became unstuck it would make sense why i went lean.
the temps when i was tuning it was around 95 degrees out and head speed was close to 2050. i search os105 settings and found plenty plenty people with close to the settings i ended up with. plenty people were under 1 turn, so i thought i was going in the right direction.

Empire hobby, Gaui USA, OMG servos, Cyclone Blades

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11-05-2013 09:36 PM  3 years agoPost 18
dchekas

rrKey Veteran

Farmington, CT

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Running 15%, I could see the main needle settings dip under 1 turn out.

But on 30%, your main needle settings will generally be north of 1 turn, typically in the 1.25+ range on the regulated engine.

Team Align, Team Futaba, Team Byron Fuels, Team Thunder Power

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11-06-2013 01:56 AM  3 years agoPost 19
dodgeboy

rrApprentice

slidell, LA

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whats weird is i had close to 2 gallons thru that motor with those settings.

Empire hobby, Gaui USA, OMG servos, Cyclone Blades

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