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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  New Project-OH-6A Cayuse Vario 1/4 scale
12-31-2012 07:01 PM  5 years agoPost 81
Rckfish

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Little Rock,AR

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Here is a taste of the update to come.

Bulkheads, floors, etc. are roughed in...glassing them as I write. Trying to hide the mechanics as best I can. I will get a full cockpit (gotta squeeze the seats and pilot around the bulge) and in the crew cabin I will get both sides...lots of area to detail!

More tomorrow. No paint yet Stan!

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01-06-2013 11:59 PM  5 years agoPost 82
Rckfish

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Little Rock,AR

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Update time
While it may seem I have not been working on the Cayuse I have...

The interior bulkheads have taken me forever. In the Crew area the back bulkhead and floor is lite ply...pretty straight forward.

Remember, my goal has been to hide the mechanics and maximize the cockpit area for detailing and 1/4 scale flight crews.

The tough part has been the bulkhead between the cockpit and crew area. It is built out of 1/4 balsa that I glassed did some filling with spot putty...more filling to do. It has been a PIA to get the bulkheads to fit with the mechanics in and has made me change the bulkhead and leave a true scale approach to the bulkhead. I will get there, mark my word...as best a the mechanics allow.

I am going to have to change two areas on the bulkheads. The areas circled in red will have to change to meet my desires. The upper one shows the cross stiffners that are pressed into the metal. I will sand them down they are much flatter than I have represented. They will be covered to a great degree with things like a first aid kit, ELT, etc. I will be adding rivets wires, etc...etc.

The second circle shows I did not get the horizontal member line up with each side of the bulkheads. The bulkheads are in two pieces so they can be removed to pull the mechanics for maintenence.

Do to the construction on the stainless mechanics mount I had to build the seat mount platforms out quite a bit in the middle.

So we covered it up. It will be minimized by the seats and the pilot. I still have to frame up the center console and the instrument panel riser, etc...

Speaking of pilot and crew chief, Premier Pilots (Ren) hooked me up with a couple of guys...I need to give a moustache or two and do some wardrobe work...but that is for a later time...stay tuned.

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01-07-2013 12:17 AM  5 years agoPost 83
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Nicely done. I am getting to the same stage with my TOW Defender build. I need to do exactly the same thing with mine to cover up the motor and chassis that sticks into the front. Take care.

Don

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01-07-2013 12:20 AM  5 years agoPost 84
doorman

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Sherwood, Arkansas

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Looking Good!!
I think you are making good time on this build... and it is looking really good!!! (no surprise:cool
I gotta stop over and take a look up close and personal!!! It will be OK...I promise not to drewl over it too much!!

Gonna be a good looking fleet addition...

Stan

AMA 2918-Team Spin Blades,,Castle Creations, Unique Aircraft

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01-07-2013 12:24 AM  5 years agoPost 85
SSMKN2

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Greensboro NC

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Bad ass to ay the least...thanks for the heli porn update

Joel
MD 500D
Bell 206

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01-07-2013 01:53 AM  5 years agoPost 86
Rckfish

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Little Rock,AR

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Thanks for the encouragement guys...seems like slow going...

The next tough part is the instrument stand. After that the detailing will start in earnest.

I have changed the gearing to a 13.6 to 1 which lets me run a 1.8M set of blades. I did a spool up...super slow with the clutch and let her run without blades for awhile. Still waiting on the blades to come in from Germany...

After Doorman helps with his magic tuning touch...we should have a sweetheart to fly.

Come on blades!!!

I can go ahead and get the lights set up pretty quick to add some Schizel.

Ps...I really got to get something in the hands of that fight crew!

Paul

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01-23-2013 12:39 AM  5 years agoPost 87
Rckfish

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Little Rock,AR

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Update
Howdy Sports Fans...
Time for an update.

Lights are done...nothing special there other than my nav/position/beacons etc., switch off of one switch and my landing light in the nose off another. In combat they did use their lights and Loaches did not fly at night if at all possible.

The next piece of the build in the interior is the seat frames...OMG I spent two solid days becoming a styrene artist. Now you may be wondering why styrene and not soldered brass. Too difficult I thought...

My first attempt at seat bases...looked intersting but did look like then real thing

The notch in the closet one was to let it fit around the mechanics build out... That took forever...I am complaining too much. You can see a pattern here.

Finally I got my head out of my rear end and did a fourth version that included seat and back with all the right curves. It is really a half seat to fit the mechanics. It will get upholstered with mesh fabric to emulate the full size that I am modeling...I still have to do the mounts.

A little more tweaking and I will nail them...I am actually doing another set now that I know how to work with the styrene rod...

The back jumpseats will be way easier but I am going to make them folding so hang on to your hats!

The pilot in his place...looking good.

And the boys out looking for trouble. The crew chief is holding a 1/4 scale M249 because no one makes a 1/4 scale M60...a little putty and an aluminum barrel shroud and you wont know the differnce.

Thats it for now...

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01-23-2013 12:57 AM  5 years agoPost 88
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Want to do a set of those in 1/6th scale? LOL. Nicely done. I am getting close to my seats arriving (four weeks, I think), but like you, I am thinking about giving the scale pipe work seats a try. I was also thinking of plastic or brass so your confirmation leads me to plastic and wait for the seat cushions before covering with some form of cloth. At this scale, it will be hard to do mess UNLESS........wire screen? It may be worth a shot. Thanks for the post and have fun with it. Looks great.

Don

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01-23-2013 01:55 AM  5 years agoPost 89
Rckfish

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Little Rock,AR

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Don
Happy to do you a set if you can give me the dimensions. There is a glue by Plastistrut that wicks in and welds the parts together. Makes a stronger bond than CA.

Works fast and clean...here is the tip of the week. Get a piece of glass. Lay it over a cutting board ( green type with a grid) and construct the pieces on it. The glue won't stick and you can see dimensionally what you need in bends and curves.

From there I will upholster with a fine mesh fabric.

Paul

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01-23-2013 02:04 AM  5 years agoPost 90
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Cool seats. You need to share all of your styrene secrets with us
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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01-23-2013 02:23 AM  5 years agoPost 91
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Paul:

I remember that glue when I built a custom milk tanker years ago. You're right, there is nothing out there like it. It may actually be at my sister's place as it was years in my mom and dad's house until it was sold. My brother-in-law may have brought it home. I appreciate the offer and will keep that in mind. Those are really well made. If nothing comes of these seats, and I give up trying to build a set, I will get in contact with you about it. Keep up the nice work.

Don

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01-27-2013 12:25 AM  5 years agoPost 92
Keygrigger

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Rckfish:

You're right, that glue is magic but I can't find it so I have to put up with Tamiya, sigh. I am actually giving it a go and have one raw frame done and the second one underway. The details are what will take forever. Thanks for the push in the right direction. Take care.

Don

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02-03-2013 05:09 AM  5 years agoPost 93
95nostalgia

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US of A

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Cayuse
Paul,
Just stumbled upon your fine build and wanted to congratulate you on your hard work. Quite a project you have going. As you know, I abandomed my H500 build but glad to see someone pursuing one. Love the model. I have some suggestions.

The top window cutouts I left whole to give strength to the small outside edge and keep it from bowing up. Many models have a plate riveted over this as it apparently made the cabin hotter. Consider adding something back at this area. I already suggested the nose landing light parts and see you will be adding a bolt-on. It will look good. Testors glue is whAat I have used for styrene. Was this your choice? I agree. Works better than anything else I found. How did you control the bends? I need to build a brass bender that will do sharp corners if I do a scale again.
I was planning on a removable tail boom but it wouldn't look as sacle as moulding it over. But I would definately suggest running spiral or lengthwise strips inside for tail flexing (racking). Your tail selection is the best for weight reduction but is still a load on the boom during startups and wind gusts.

I used many many custom sized magnets on all openings. I'm not sure the plastic hinges are up to the job of keeping doores working right. I have some metal. I couldn't use scale locations for hinges as it put the front doors in a bind.

Landing gear was the reason I stopped. Get that "Doorman Landing" down and you shouldn't have an issue. Ha.

Now that I am "updated", I will be following your post. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

God created only a few perfect heads...the rest he put hair on them.

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02-03-2013 05:20 AM  5 years agoPost 94
95nostalgia

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US of A

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Forgot
For the cross foil connecting the tail fins...I used an aluminum pre-shaped foil. It is a bit smaller than the supplied wood but looks good. Du-bro (I think) has turnbuckles. I drilled the fins from the outside all the way thru (bondo later) to install half of the turnbuckle. The other half I filled the foil completely with epoxy to help keeping it from becoming bent later. I used small HO railroad bolts to attach the two halves. Didn't really "turnbuckle" but it looked right. The rest of the tail doesn't attach right like scale but would require too much work. I did beef up the fin bolts and backed it up inside with more plywood and blind nuts as I recall.

Some are using Evercoat GLAZING as bondo. This is supposed to be used to do pinpoint imperfections. There is an Evercoat filler you are supposed to use first. I have found the glazing by itself to be "chippy" and could ruin a paint job if not backed up underneath. I use 3m bondo off the shelf at the Depot because the cans are small. Seems to work as good as the rest.

Now you know all I know and I have nothing else to add. It all you now.

God created only a few perfect heads...the rest he put hair on them.

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02-03-2013 11:55 AM  5 years agoPost 95
cabojay

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Kenosha, Wis.. USA

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WOW
Talk about detail !!! What a great job I'm sure people will think it is real when its flying.. Great job Rckfish

AMA#939908
IRCHA#4219
LCRCC Vice President

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02-03-2013 01:02 PM  5 years agoPost 96
Rckfish

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Little Rock,AR

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Allen,
Thanks for chiming in. Let me respond to your comments. You are correct on the upper windows. I did cut mine out and reinforced the frame with carbon strand. I am building this one for competition and it will have to go as scale as possible.

On the V tail I used the shaped aluminum tube as well and built some scale fasteners. It is much more scale than the supplied wood. I also shimmed it out to be at the scale angle.

I use Evercoat. Never a problem. It is the best.

As far as hinges and magnets, this bird will not have any doors. They flew the OH-6A without doors.

On the styrene, I used Plasti Strut glue. Works just like the Testors.

The tail is super rigid with correct bulkhead placement and Aeropoxy...it is not going anywhere...with a straight shot on the torque tube that is removable there is not much reason to make the tail removable.

Barry,
The biggest trick is a candle to do the heating on solid styrene rod. On hollow tube you can bend it by hand and get what you need and not use heat. building on glass is helpful for alignment and gluing (it will pop right off the glass). The biggest trick by far is the correct glue. Testors and Tamiya work good but for me the Plasti Strut glue wicks in quicker and welds faster. These glues actually melt or weld the parts together.

They tack very fast, in seconds, and then leave it overnight and it is bomb proof. I have completed the instrument stand and console with varying thicknesses of styrene. In the photos below you can see where I took it. I have some engineering in my background so I either find photos or tying to understand how something it constructed and replicate it. The Plasti Struct allows me to weld and the styrene allows me to form and shape. Much too hard to do in brass or any other material...for me anyway.

On another front with this build, I am using a sound system from Model Sound Solutions in Canada. I have finished the speaker box which will go into the belly. The sound system will run off of 6s putting out 106db of sound. It has the OH-6A turbine sound files (startup, idle, flight and shut down) as well as my weapons files...very cool.

So, lots of fun and lots to do...I am anxious to get all the rough in done in the cabins and cockpit so I can get to the exterior details.

I just received my blades from Germany and Joe so I can get started on flight testing pretty quick.

Paul

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02-03-2013 02:50 PM  5 years agoPost 97
coptercptn

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Mesa AZ. USA

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lookin good Paul!!!

Home of the "Sea Cobra".....

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02-03-2013 04:06 PM  5 years agoPost 98
Mojave

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Palos Verdes, Ca. USA

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Thanks for the info on the styrene! Your seats and instrument pod look great.
Barry

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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02-03-2013 05:43 PM  5 years agoPost 99
Keygrigger

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Mississauga, Ont. Canada

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Those seat frames are far different in shape to the ones in my bird. Yours look great. I know you are modelling a specific heli but I have seen armor plating on the sides of the seat in one configuration. So many heli's, so little time, lol. Nice work on the instrument panel. Are you planning lighting in it or going with it as non-lit? I really can't attempt to do mine at this point as there are too many faces on the panel I am waiting for and I know it is setup to be able to be lit. I have found out talking to one heli tech that the modern lighting in the helis and panels is red lights for everything. If someone has worked on 369D military use heli's, maybe they could chime in. I'm watching the build and so far, it's one nice job.

Don

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02-03-2013 08:38 PM  5 years agoPost 100
Heli143

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Phenix City, AL

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Beautiful detail work!!

Roy Mayoral

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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters Docs  New Project-OH-6A Cayuse Vario 1/4 scale
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