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HelicopterMain Discussion › Please help...counter sunk stripped hex screw
08-29-2012 12:59 AM  5 years agoPost 1
flyinfriend

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North American continent

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Hi,

I have two screws in my Century Predator gasser that are counter sunk into the frames. These two screws that hold the tail on the frame. Both are flat and counter sunk so I can't slot them without destroying the frames.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how these could be removed? They are m3x10 flat heads. Would JB welding a hex wrench onto each of them be enough holding power to turn them? They are only blue lock tited in.

Thanks for any ideas.

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08-29-2012 01:08 AM  5 years agoPost 2
Heli 770

rrProfessor

USA.

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Drill the heads off.

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08-29-2012 01:09 AM  5 years agoPost 3
McKrackin

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Lucasville,Ohio

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Left handed drill bit after holding a soldering iron in the head for a couple minutes.Start drilling into the head of the screw.
It will usually spin out before the bit gets too deep.
If not,the bit will take the head off the screw.
Use one the same size as the screws shank.

And yes,I have epoxied an allen wrench in the head before.

I literally never use the word literally right.

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08-29-2012 01:36 AM  5 years agoPost 4
ThumbBumper

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A little to the right and down!

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Sears sells a very set of easy-outs that I have had very good luck with.

Another trick some folks use is to take your hex driver and add a little dab of JB weld and insert it in the screw. Let it set overnight and remove the screw the next day.

Pick your poison... Good luck!
Bob

If it ain't broke, go fly some more!
http://facebook.com/groups/TORCHS/

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08-29-2012 01:38 AM  5 years agoPost 5
flyinfriend

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North American continent

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Thanks for the ideas guys...really appreciate it.

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08-29-2012 02:40 AM  5 years agoPost 6
MartyH

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USA

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Both are great ideas. I have JB Welded an Allen wrench into a stripped head before. So far I have never had to drill one out but the left handed bit seems like the way to go if you get that far.

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08-29-2012 02:44 AM  5 years agoPost 7
YSRRider

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usa

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drill a little deeper and use easy out or take those crappy dremel discs that explode when you flex them, cut on a hard piece of steel till it wears down very small and then use the remaining part of that cut off disc to slot the head and use a flat head.

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08-29-2012 02:57 AM  5 years agoPost 8
Brokenlink

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Oakdale

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m3x10 flat heads
YSRRiderThis is a 3mm flat head,and as you can see he said
Both are flat and counter sunk so I can't slot them without destroying the frames
So I suppose your idea of drill a little deeper and take those crappy dremel discs that explode when you flex them, cut on a hard piece of steel till it wears down very small and then use the remaining part of that cut off disc to slot the head and use a flat head,won't work for him.
Heli 770 has the right idea.

Jamie Griffith

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08-29-2012 04:44 AM  5 years agoPost 9
CXD

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Norway

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I think he meant you wear it down so its small enough to cut only the screw not the frame.

Dumb Thumbing doesn't apply to pinchers!

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08-29-2012 06:13 AM  5 years agoPost 10
YSRRider

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usa

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I believe those are the same ones/style that were used on the chassis of R/C cars. Back in the day I had a Team Losi truck, all the screws on the bottom were counter sunk and this was a common method to remove them back then. It works, just takes patience.

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08-29-2012 06:13 AM  5 years agoPost 11
YSRRider

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usa

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yes, wear it down so the wheel is tiny

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08-29-2012 06:34 AM  5 years agoPost 12
adamsz06

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Geilenkirchen Germany

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I have a set of hardened hex drivers in sae and metric...sometimes if the screw is really stripped I can apply some heat with a soldering iron and then tap the next size sae driver in with a brass hammer...the shock and the heat should break the loctite loose and the hardened tip gets just enough bite to back it out. Good luck....

R.I.P. Roman

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08-30-2012 01:35 PM  5 years agoPost 13
eppler

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Baytown, TX

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Use a drimal cut a slot and take it out with a flat head screwdriver.

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08-30-2012 01:44 PM  5 years agoPost 14
RCHSF

rrKey Veteran

NC

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YSRRider

drill a little deeper and use easy out.
^^^ Best Bet. Easy out. Drill the screw out with a drill bit a hair smaller than the dia of the screw. The drill bit might bring the set screws threads out with the drill in reverse after you drill down into the screw. If not get an easy out small enough to fit into the hole you drilled. Or over drill the screw, and then tap a new set of threads for a bigger set screw.

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08-30-2012 06:48 PM  5 years agoPost 15
tonyd12

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hamlin,PA

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screws

Me, I used a small solder iron with a pin point tip. The heat did the trick. I replaced One of them with a normal headed hex screw all that was needed and the other with a stainless steel screw from Lowes just a pain in a## once.

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08-30-2012 07:28 PM  5 years agoPost 16
jschenck

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La Vista, NE.

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I have had the exact same screws get jammed and stripped on my Predator. I'll see if I can take a picture tonight. I did end up cutting a slot into it with a dremel. It did cut into the frame a bit but it didn't ruin the frame. If you can live with a couple extra cuts in the frame that did work with me.

The left hand drill bit makes a lot of sense to me.

Only issue I have with easy-outs of this size is if they snap off you'll have a real mess.

another option that really sucks is tearing the airframe all the way down so the transmission case is held on to that frame component by that one screw and they are in your hands. then you can unscrew the transmission case by spinning it around the screw.

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08-30-2012 07:42 PM  5 years agoPost 17
BobOD

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New York- USA

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Left handed drill bit
I don't run into too many people who know of this trick. Better than any easyout bit I ever had.
And if the bit gets dull from drilling into the hexes of hardened screws, all the better as it'll create a lot of heat when you're drilling.

Team POP Secret

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Please help...counter sunk stripped hex screw
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