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Synergy R/C
Synergy E7 › New toys coming for the E7.
08-28-2012 03:51 AM  5 years agoPost 21
Chris.C

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Hong Kong

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Is the main mast 10mm or 12mm?

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08-28-2012 04:31 AM  5 years agoPost 22
Jim Hansen

rrApprentice

Waimea Valley, HI.

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10mm

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08-28-2012 09:05 AM  5 years agoPost 23
Chris.C

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Hong Kong

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Thanks. Is the N9/E9 swashplate for 12mm main mast?

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09-10-2012 05:15 PM  5 years agoPost 24
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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I thought I would give a update to the new toys added to the E7.

The servos are perfect at 7.5 volts. I made no changes to my CGY750 and they are locked in perfect. Very happy with their speed and performance over the BLS252.

The BLS252 where good at 6.0 volts, I just wanted to step into the HV club the right way with a good BEC and servos spec for it. I'm very happy with the choice I made.

What's funny is I think you are going to see more people running these servos, at that point Futaba will release a BLS version and call it a Heli servo. HEHEHEHE

The BEC on the Kosmik is great. Very happy with the range of voltage and everything it can handle.

Now the ESC is another store. The programming is quite easy with a program disk. The upset is I have shut the ESC down on several occasions with what the lights indicate as a over voltage. I have been data logging my flights and recording everything possible for testing the ESC.

I have had several random spikes in amps that shut the ESC down. This can be at a point of a simple flip, nothing major in a maneuver that would over stress the ESC. What upsets me about this is my Heli-Jive 120 with the exact same setup can handle it all day long and ask for more.

I have contacted Kontroniks over this issue. Their suggestion was to change the timing from auto to manual and set it at 30. I did this with no fix in shut down issue.

So my goal is to test from auto timing to manual timing all the way to 30 in steps of 5.

The motor manufacturer suggest the timing be between 5 to 12.

At the field yesterday I started testing. I wanted to start at 12 for my true testing just to see if that would fix the issue right away. I set the timing from auto to 12, then with a fresh charged battery reset the heads speed for the timing advance. Normal 1900 Idle1 2000 Idle2 2000. Then recharged the same battery for flight.

The flights where very simple. No hard pulls, just stationary flips and rolls, and some piros. Easy flying. I performed 2 flights with the same battery. All testing was done with the same battery. Everything was fine with no shut downs, but again no true hard pulls.

I then reset the timing from manual to auto and re-calibrated the head speeds. With the same battery fully charged I went and flew. First flight was okay with the same maneuvers. Second flight I had a shut down at 3:45 into the flight in the middle of a basic flip. I was able to get the heli on the ground in one piece. The data logs showed a amp spike at 208 amps, I believe this is what cause the shut down. I'm not sure why it would have spiked.

I'm going to now set the timing to 5, reset the head speeds and continue testing up the timing range till 30 and see what happens.

I have been over my set up several times to make sure I have no cold solder joints or anything that could cause the issue mechanically.

I will keep data logging to try to figure this issue out.

Thanks,
Chris

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09-12-2012 06:22 AM  5 years agoPost 25
Dr.Ben

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Richmond, VA, USA

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Chris,

I know this set up was working with the HJ, but could you pair the Kosmik with some other motor and then beat on the model a bit and confirm the ESC holds? I have concerns about what on Earth is creating a 200 amp spike in a simple flip. Furthermore, as you may know, a datalogger cannot easily record micro current spikes that may be even higher than the 200 amp one you saw, and that may be why the controller shut down. It's not happy with some part of the motor system.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

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09-12-2012 07:40 AM  5 years agoPost 26
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Essentially kde is neu correct?

They "neu" always were known to throw ridiculous spikes. It may be actually real.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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09-12-2012 08:18 AM  5 years agoPost 27
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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Hello Dr Ben and OICU812,

I do not have any other motors then the KDE at this point. I understand your thought process though. If I switched motors and the problem processed then we would know it's in the ESC.

The upset is the flip side to that. What if the ESC just cannot run with the KDE motors? To be frank, I really don't want to do a bunch of beta testing for Kontronik. Dr Ben I would gladly send you or Kontronik this ESC and could probably get you a new KDE motor if you wanted to test and send the info back to Kontronik. I just really want this to work because I like the Pros of the ESC and also Patrick's motors.

I have a few more things I'm going to try before I give up.

Hey Shawn,

How are you doing? Hope all is well.

KDE is not Neu, Neu has not produced motors for KDE for a long time. The new KDE motors are Patrick's design from the ground up.

Thanks,
Chris

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09-13-2012 04:25 PM  5 years agoPost 28
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Chris are you certain on the whole ground up thing? I ask as I recall when the KDE first were coming to market and the mention of Steve NEU passing on plans and so on was very apparent to public so is it a casing re design by KDE but the core is still all NEU? I never once had good luck with NEU & Konny combos just didn't. I had a few power jives take a nap due to the 1912 and 1910 motors.

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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09-14-2012 02:38 PM  5 years agoPost 29
Chuck Bole

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Tulsa Ok. U.S.A.

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I thought i remember reading somewhere the KDE was a Castle design.

chuck

Team Synergy Field Representative / Thunder Power

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09-14-2012 06:21 PM  5 years agoPost 30
badastinner

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Wentzville, MO-USA

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Could it be possible the motor is shorting during the flight? Have you ohm tested it? A friend of mine had 2 bad kde motors at ircha. The one in his heli was bad and the vbar wouldn't even initialize. So Mr. Mel said to test the motor and it was bad. Then he got a new one and it was bad out of the box. The third one works great. I don't know much about all this electronic stuff but just throwing it out there.

No changes are permanent but...change is.

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09-14-2012 06:28 PM  5 years agoPost 31
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Actually that's a good point and something to check! Bit Doubtfull however it is a possibility. Easy to check that Chris!

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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09-14-2012 08:51 PM  5 years agoPost 32
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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I have ohm checked the motor, it's fine. I check all my motors now before they go into a heli. Simple process and saves a lot of time trouble shooting.

Mr Mel also shared that information with me to check my motors.

Keep the suggestions coming.

I might break down and buy a Kosmik 200 to see if it's the amps that are killing the 160. That will let me determined if it's the Kosmik or not. I need something for my second heli anyways.

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09-14-2012 09:09 PM  5 years agoPost 33
OICU812

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Edson, Alberta, Canada

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That doesent make sense. I'd try different motor first. 160 is plenty. I mean L700 much larger, heavier machine and with a 4525 Scorp you can get by with a helijive 120. So I know you feel obligated in that motor but what does it do a 4530 xera or Scorpion 4525 can't ?

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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09-14-2012 10:51 PM  5 years agoPost 34
helikid_24

rrNovice

Jefferson,Oreogn,Usa

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newguy

I would start by changing the flux capcitor, the 1.1 jigawatts is lot of power and they sometime get fried! If that dosent work i would look at the nuclar rods, you might have a bad one. If we can talk about it, it could happen !

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09-15-2012 02:01 AM  5 years agoPost 35
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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Tylor,

I'm going to need to borrow your radiation suit before I tear into this thing. I'm afraid my 4" lead walls in the work shop won't do the trick.

Here are my thoughts on the ESC thing.

I have no problem switching to another KDE motor to see if the issue lies in the motor it's self, but to switch to another motor brand and then say the ESC is okay does not work for me.

If the new Kosmik cannot handle a certain brand motor then the issue lies in the ESC not the motor.

I also have no problem purchasing a new Kosmik 200 ESC to see if it can handle the KDE motor.

I'm loyal to KDE as many other are loyal to other brands. I also have always enjoyed my Kontroniks ESC's. I really want this combination to works. Having the best ESC and to "me" motor on the market makes me smile.

If I can present this information to Kontrinks in a positive manner and show that the testing is solid, maybe they will also test on their end to see if I'm incorrect.

I have no problem being incorrect as long as I'm shown why in way I understand.

This falls back to the beginning where the Heli-Jive 120 works fine with this motor. If there needs to be some tweaking for the Kosmik to work properly, I would hope they would be open to that.

I look forward to any feedback.

Thanks,
Chris

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09-17-2012 01:28 AM  5 years agoPost 36
thenewguy

rrElite Veteran

Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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I have taken my second KDE motor out of my #2 helicopter. This motor has been flying great for the last 5 months with the exact same set up as before. I have twin helis, KDE motors and Heli-Jive 120's.

I checked the motor for shorts and gave it a good once over. I took the KDE bullet plugs off and added connectors for the Kosmik 160. I crimped and soldered the connectors being very precise about making sure everything was perfect.

I'm going to install this motor in my #1 heli with the Kosmik 160. With no changes from the last test, that was with auto timing the had the shut down, I'm going to go test the system again.

I'll report back as soon as I have information.

Thanks you everyone for your suggestions.

Here are some pics before the install.

Chris

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09-17-2012 01:46 AM  5 years agoPost 37
OICU812

rrMaster

Edson, Alberta, Canada

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Cool Chris!

...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars and frequency pins...

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09-23-2012 09:18 PM  5 years agoPost 38
thenewguy

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Corvallis, Oregon Where there is liquid sunshine!

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Well,

I'm here at the field testing. The only thing that has changes is the motor. Same shut down issue with a spike at 200 amps. Shut down the esc with basic flying. Planning on purchasing the Kosmik 200 to see if it can handle the motor.

Thanks
Chris

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09-24-2012 12:33 AM  5 years agoPost 39
360Wings

rrApprentice

Australia

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I just recently switched from a Powerjazz to a YGE 160 that's 16s capable. Fixin to do a stretch also. Thinking 16s 3300's.. Looking at a different motor also.
Is that a custom build/special order YGE160HV? Ive just got myself a YGE160HV with heatsink and its spec'd at 14S...??

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09-24-2012 01:06 AM  5 years agoPost 40
Chuck Bole

rrElite Veteran

Tulsa Ok. U.S.A.

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No, stock version.
http://www.demonheli.com/category_s/53.htm

chuck

Team Synergy Field Representative / Thunder Power

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