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HelicopterMain Discussion › Muffler gasket
06-09-2012 07:52 PM  5 years agoPost 1
RICHW

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Cupertino, CA

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OK, this one's for real. My heli almost returned home without its muffler had it not been for the one bolt that heroically stayed on. There is a small piece of what looks like a gasket remaining. I put this together twelve years ago and don't remember there being one, but there must have been. What do I use to make a new one or are they available for the TT36. Or do I really even need one?

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06-09-2012 08:21 PM  5 years agoPost 2
TheWoodCrafter

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Costa Mesa, Ca.

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Use high temperature silicone gasket sealer in a tube from the auto parts store.
Clean everything very well.
Put some on the muffler mounting screws also.
Let it dry before use.
Don't use too much so it blocks the exhaust port.

Thanks, TheWoodCrafter

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06-09-2012 09:04 PM  5 years agoPost 3
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Use nothing between the muffler and crankcase. High Temperature silicone RTV eventually flakes off inside (even if you use a thin coat, as some still gets squeezed into the void when you tighten down the bolts), gets sucked into the combustion chamber, finds its way to the glow plug and puts out the fire and screws up the plug.

AS long as the muffler flange and the crankcase mating surfaces are clean, flat, and not damaged, all you need is clean threads on both the bolt and the muffler.

Attach the muffler to the motor using an allen wrench that fits the cap screw well Tighten both screws. Go fly then land. While everything is still hot, tighten the bolts again, using the wrench that fits properly.

Do this a couple more times -- fly, land, while still hot tighten the bolts. The bolts will remain good and tight until you want them to come off, at which time all you'll need is that good-fitting allen wrench.

No RTV, gasket, epoxy, or other black magic is required.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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06-09-2012 09:08 PM  5 years agoPost 4
BladeScrape

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Warren OH. US

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About 5 yrs ago I started using 5min epoxy. A very thin bead around the exuast flange and even a tiny bit on the threads. Then put it together .Never ever had one come loose after that . I also have had no trouble removing when needed.

Team JR

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06-09-2012 10:12 PM  5 years agoPost 5
heli-cuzz

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Pittston, Pa. USA

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Or do I really even need one?
No you don't need one, but if you insist using a gasket , make one using an aluminum can. It works much better than the silicone, or anything else, and is very easy to make. It'll last longer than any liquid sealant and is reusuable.

Fury 55 NIB Furion6 CGY750 fbl helicopter-Frenzy CGY750 fbl nitro-Frenzy fbl NOBAR90

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06-09-2012 10:37 PM  5 years agoPost 6
YSRRider

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usa

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I agree, no gasket unless its a metal one. If you get oil leaking out, dont be lazy and just clean it at the end of the day!

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06-09-2012 11:21 PM  5 years agoPost 7
Dave Willis

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Sevierville, TN USA

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Look at this Website

http://icbimproducts.com/

Futaba AMA 6679 IRCHA 675 VHA 11

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06-10-2012 01:21 AM  5 years agoPost 8
jgunpilot

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Pollock, LA

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I usually make one from sheet aluminum or a convenient beverage can. The silicone does kill plugs, I've had 2-3 go after using that method. Do tighten when hot and you'll be good.

Check your engine to make sure it didn't lean out and have damage from the loose pipe.

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06-10-2012 04:15 AM  5 years agoPost 9
RICHW

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Cupertino, CA

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great suggestions. Thanks. Yes, the engine leaned out big time. My first clue was the absence of the smoke and the next clue was the suddenly very loud sound. I landed witihin 30 sec, had trouble stopping the blades at an idle that was twice what it used to be, and discovered the reason. I like the idea of the aluminum gasket. It gives me something to do, even if it may not be absolutely necessary.

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06-10-2012 05:17 AM  5 years agoPost 10
TattooArtist

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Chestnut Ridge NY

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U can also get Some automotive gasket maker at your local
Auto parts and make your own..
In comes in a roll and will last u for ever..
For about $8

Team Gaui/Empire Hobbies ,RcRcc,

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06-10-2012 06:34 AM  5 years agoPost 11
rotor head33

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Louisiana-United States

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I bought high temp rubber gasket paper from autozone. 4 dollars for like a 3 foot roll. Cut my own gasket and has worked absolutely perfectly ever since (bout five gallons. Going strong) rtv lasted maybe a gallon before it started leaking. The paper I use is a gray roll. Cut a square. Bolt it in between pipe and header (to make an outline to cut) remove. Cut. Install.

Power is nothing without control

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06-10-2012 04:33 PM  5 years agoPost 12
nitro fun

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Oc ca

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Just use permatex ultra copper with no gasket !! will not flake, dry, fall off, other silicones are not the same as this stuff,

It's all I use when I build V8's also

Also use carb cleaner to clean the parts before applying the silicone to get it clean with no oil. The ultra copper will never come off when parts are cleaned properly .

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06-10-2012 05:52 PM  5 years agoPost 13
RICHW

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Cupertino, CA

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I seem to recall that one reason for having a gasket, even if the surfaces are well mated is to act as a thermal block and keep the heat the muffler has accumulated from going back to the cylinder head. Or maybe that was the purpose of a carburetor gasket. Let's see.....what was the first law of thermodynamics? Would the muffler be hotter than the cylinder head? I am going to try both the aluminum and the material you suggest. Gee, maybe now I have an excuse to get telemetry equipment.

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06-10-2012 06:15 PM  5 years agoPost 14
dkshema

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Cedar Rapids, IA

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Gaskets control leaks, they're not too efficient at being thermal barriers. Get an air leak around the base of your carb, your motor will run real poorly.

The majority of RC motors on the market don't isolate the carb thermally from the crankcase and they run quite well. The base of the carb fits into the crankcase, and is held either by a couple of screws, or a clamp. The gasket (O-ring) controls air leaks, not thermal gradients. Thermal isolation of the carb from the block is done to keep excess heat from affecting the flow of fuel through the carb (if the fuel boils or vaporizes at the wrong place in the carb, you're not going anywhere).

The muffler is going to be a huge heat sink, it's not generating heat, it's removing heat. It has a large surface area exposed to a decent airflow. The muffler will not increase heat going to the motor simply by being present. There was a time in the modeling world when mufflers were optional, and the motors ran quite well. Very few mufflers supplied with today's motors are supplied with gaskets.

The gasket on the muffler would serve two purposes. 1. It keeps burnt fuel from going everywhere; 2. if you're using muffler pressure back to the tank, it makes sure there is actually a decent pressure AT the muffler tap. If the mating surfaces are sound and flat, you won't have glop leaking out of the joint, and you will maintain adequate pressure at the pressure tap.

Odd how people will go out of their way to make installing something as simple as a muffler so darn difficult and labor-intensive. Of course in your original post, you ended with "or do I need one at all". The answer is NO, you don't need one. After all, it took TWELVE YEARS for you to even come to this point, asking if you need one, after FLYING it for twelve years without.

BTW -- First Law of Thermodynamics: The law which states that the total energy of a system and its surroundings remains constant.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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06-10-2012 06:21 PM  5 years agoPost 15
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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I agree with Dave. No gasket. The silicone can also go through the pressure line and end up in your tank and then clog the filter or worse yet get to the carb. If the mating surfaces are barfed up, a soft aluminum gasket may work. Not really reusable since the whole purpose is to conform to the barfed up mating surfaces.

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06-10-2012 07:57 PM  5 years agoPost 16
RICHW

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Cupertino, CA

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Regarding the gasket on MY machine. I am pretty sure it had been there up until yesterday when it was subjected to exhaust forces and no support. The carburetor gasket I mentioned was in reference to someone's Walbro carburetor that didn't seem to like being heated up by the engine and performed much better with the addition of an insulating gasket (airleak was not an issue). Anyway, I am off to the pile of diet Coke cans in my garage to select a candidate for this project. I can no longer NOT do it. I have to see how good a job I can do, even if it may be pointless. Then off to the Auto parts store. It's too windy to fly now, anyway.

Thanks all.

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06-10-2012 08:26 PM  5 years agoPost 17
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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Aluminum duck tape.

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06-11-2012 02:07 AM  5 years agoPost 18
Cra-Z-1

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Washington,UT-USA

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This is what I use on my OS 55 HZ; No epoxy, No Sealants, No Silicone...No Cork, No Fiber, No Rubber...nope...NONE Of that and flawless seals and re-seals without mess or wait times "EVER".

http://helidirect.com/aluminum-engi...-50-p-24331.hdx

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Muffler gasket
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