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HelicopterBeginners Corner › Custom Link Rods
01-26-2012 10:23 PM  6 years agoPost 1
Flyagra

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Singer Island, Florida

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I am converting a Blade 450 to 3GX flybarless with the Mikado flybarless conversion head. None of the existing link rods are the right length to connect the swashplate to the blade grips.

How do you make, or where do you find, odd length link rods for something like this? I can think of a few ways that I might be able to do this, but I don't want to crash it 3 or 4 times in the learning process.

Any help or suggestions appreciated.

-

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01-27-2012 01:43 AM  6 years agoPost 2
RCHSF

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NC

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Goto a hardware store and find you some threaded steel rod it comes in 3 feet lengths I belive.

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01-27-2012 02:17 AM  6 years agoPost 3
S Crutchfield

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Arkadelphia,Ar. usa

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build your own
I bought the blank rods and dies to thread my own, from East Coast Scale Helicopters. It's a little pricey to start with but sure saves a lot of headaches. Just cut them to the lenth you want and thread them. Here's the link. No pun intended!
http://www.eastcoastvario.com/

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01-28-2012 12:29 AM  6 years agoPost 4
ticedoff8

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Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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I went to the local hardware store - no 2mm threaded rod. The best was 4-40.

I went to the local hobby shop - and the 2mm threaded rod was REALLY .063 (1/16" ) dia - not 2mm. I pointed it out to them - they didn't know.

I've used bicycle spokes - one side is threaded and you can cut to length. I will solder a DuBro brass coupler to the other end. But spokes can be pretty soft and pliable - not the best characteristic for a swash plate link. I have used them on pull-pull links for throttle through.

I bought one of the KB Tools 2mm die - and stripped the first time I tried to cut threads on a cut-down link. That didn't work.

I thought about trying to soften up the link material with heat, cut some new threads and then re-heat treat it = never tried it though.

Most of the commercially available ball links for helicopters are meant for 2mm threads. Some (mainly used on FBL main blade links) are 2.5mm.

So...
If you really want to build a nice set of custom length control rods, buy the parts form Vario. High strength carbon-steel dies.

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02-03-2012 01:01 AM  6 years agoPost 5
neilg.

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north of borston

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Dubro?

In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti

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02-07-2012 11:27 PM  6 years agoPost 6
spiderco

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Henderson, Nevada

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Any hardware store carries the threaded rods. I've used them in the past and put heat shrink tubing to cover the exposed threads. It's easier on the eyes this way. I've also used carbon tubing, little harder to find though.

fly til its dry

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02-07-2012 11:29 PM  6 years agoPost 7
VKGT

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Sanford, NC

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Another vote for threaded rod. Hopefully you have a good Hobby Shop in your area or you could always try ACE Hardware or somewhere similar.

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02-08-2012 01:48 PM  6 years agoPost 8
reddragon

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Brooklyn, N.Y.

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Try JR helicopter rods from Horizon. They have dozens of various lengths, two rods per pack.

Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!

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02-09-2012 11:11 PM  6 years agoPost 9
ticedoff8

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Morgan Hill, CA. USA

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Any hardware store carries the threaded rods
2mm threaded rod? I can't find 2mm at Ace or Orchard Supply Hardware.

Or, is the 2-56 small enough to use the standard 2mm ball-links?

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02-11-2012 03:28 AM  6 years agoPost 10
Bladecpnitro

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Ga

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Post removed by Blade CP Nitro

If its fixed don't break it.

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02-12-2012 01:26 PM  6 years agoPost 11
dizzymarkus

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Oswego, NY

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I use the threaded rod with CF tube over them, shrink wrapped on the ends to match :0)

Markus

I reject your reality and substitute my own :0)

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02-12-2012 05:50 PM  6 years agoPost 12
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Be careful using fully threaded rod, it can and will break on the threads (one reason why rods that come with the kits are not fully threaded and why the links cover most if not all of the threads to provide support. Your best bet is to order 2mm rod from a place like McMaster Carr and cut and use a proper die to make the lengths you need. Maybe use the fully threaded to determine the buld length then make them out of proper material. Do not use piano wire as it will be too hard and kill the dies

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02-12-2012 05:53 PM  6 years agoPost 13
dizzymarkus

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Oswego, NY

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it can and will break on the threads
why I have cf rod over the top and have never had an issue ever :0) unprotected I agree

Markus

I reject your reality and substitute my own :0)

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02-12-2012 05:59 PM  6 years agoPost 14
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Unless the carbon rod is bonded to the link, it can still fracture under tension. When you cut threads you create micro fractures which is what causes the break. The carbon cover does nothing but look pretty

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02-15-2012 01:32 AM  6 years agoPost 15
reddragon

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Brooklyn, N.Y.

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Here is a link to Horizon's page on the control rods.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/.../:cp=1/:ip=45/:

Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!

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02-15-2012 03:59 AM  6 years agoPost 16
dizzymarkus

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Oswego, NY

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lol ok rocket your right --

Markus

I reject your reality and substitute my own :0)

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02-15-2012 09:41 PM  6 years agoPost 17
neilg.

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north of borston

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if you have exposed threads sticking out of the ball link, why don't we hear about more fractures and failures?

Neil

In Nomeni Patri Et Fili Spiritus Sancti

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02-16-2012 01:14 AM  6 years agoPost 18
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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Actually you do on occasion. I have seen on here people talk about rod failures. Having a thread or two exposed isn't as bad as having 1/2 an inch exposed for sure but yes there have been reports of rod failures on various machines on occasion

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02-16-2012 01:46 AM  6 years agoPost 19
Tag1260

rrApprentice

Ohio USA

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Could that be because we tend to use the very smallest diameter that we can and as such we over stress it? What if we used a larger diameter of threaded rod?
Just speculating here....

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02-16-2012 02:17 AM  6 years agoPost 20
rocket_33

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Mount Pleasant, Michigan USA

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There is logic to that as well. Rolled threads would be better than cut threads as well

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