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T-REX 700 › Trex 700E question
01-23-2012 03:26 PM  6 years agoPost 1
Aces

rrApprentice

Georgetown Tx

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I am purchasing a 700e and was wondering what you guys are powering the electronics with? I had a 550 and was powering everything off the main battery but I want to have a back up for the electronics in case of failure.

Did he crash? Dang, I missed it!

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01-23-2012 03:54 PM  6 years agoPost 2
Stephen Born

rrElite Veteran

USA

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You can use 2 4000mAh or 2 5000mAh to power the motor. As backup for electronics, use a 3300mAh 7.4 2s for receiver / Sbus, servos, gyros, and tail servo. You will need a regulator for your tail if not HV.

If main batt or esc goes out, 3300mAh will allow for cyclic control for auto.

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01-23-2012 04:27 PM  6 years agoPost 3
Aces

rrApprentice

Georgetown Tx

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Thank you
Thats what i was looking for.

Did he crash? Dang, I missed it!

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01-24-2012 11:56 PM  6 years agoPost 4
MIG76

rrNovice

tx

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4000 or 5000 for trex700
is there a big difference using 4000 or 5000 mah
whats recomended out there?
how much Cs?

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01-25-2012 01:10 AM  6 years agoPost 5
Stephen Born

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USA

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4000 or 5000 for trex700

is there a big difference using 4000 or 5000 mah
I use 2 4000mAh 6s to power motor and seperate battery for HeliCommand and all electronics.

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01-26-2012 02:40 PM  6 years agoPost 6
Chanceyman

rrApprentice

Riverview, FL

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An alternative for the Electronics is to fly a Life pack. I use a 2s Life which runs at 6.6 volts. I run the stock DS610's and DS650 so no need to step down the voltage on the tail with this setup. I like to remove anything from the electronics equation I possibly can, regulator being one of them. Later when I upgrade the tail to something that will take 8v I will switch over to an unregulated Lipo.

http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HP-FR21002S

Fly it like you stole it. -Team Heliproz- -Morgan Fuel-

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01-26-2012 02:53 PM  6 years agoPost 7
unclejane

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santa fe, NM, USA

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If you're using a BEC, I'd run a buffer pack along with it. When I had my Kontronik (Jive 120HV) on my 700E I used its BEC with a 2000mah 4 cell NiMH (4.8v) on a switch plugged into one of the spare ports on the RX. With this, if the ESC goes, you still have power for the electronics to auto it in.

If you're using a seperate RX batt, I recommend as much capacity as you can afford/fit onto the heli. Especially if you're flybarless, you want at least 3000mah, IMO.

On my 700E I use two of the Align 1900mah 2s lipos wired in parallel into the stock Align RCE-B6X regulator that came with the kit. This gives about 5 flights - it's FBL with a BeastX and stock Align DS610s/DS650 servos which really suck down the power in flight.

For the main power, I use 2 Align 5200mah 40C 6s batts, but probably anything in the 4000-5000mah range that'll fit into the heli will work fine.

LS

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01-26-2012 03:20 PM  6 years agoPost 8
Aces

rrApprentice

Georgetown Tx

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Thanks for all the responses
Let me ask this. I have flown electrics for many years now and never had a main battery pack "fail" in flight. What would cause a battery to "fail"? I mean I totally see the sense in running the flight controls seperate but then Ive never experienced a battery failure? Im by no means a stick banger pilot and only do mild 3D. ANd if you were to run long on a flight and drain your battery then that does not cause loss of electronics does it (unless you have a esc cutoff setting for low voltage). I guess I am playing devils advocate.

Did he crash? Dang, I missed it!

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01-26-2012 05:21 PM  6 years agoPost 9
Stephen Born

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USA

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I started to use a seperate Rx battery pack on my 700e when I was out flying and had a "dead cell" on my 400mAh pack. All of a sudden the heli motor quit running and the heli just dropped. The only thing that saved the heli was the 710mm blades were spinning so fast and they are so long, it auto almost by itself.

I took the battery out and it was puffed. Put it on a blinky and found one cell went out during flight.

I now fly a seperate battery pack for the Rx. I make sure THAT battery is fully charged and balanced. This is my safety measure that I use. To each his own.

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01-26-2012 05:36 PM  6 years agoPost 10
Chanceyman

rrApprentice

Riverview, FL

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I have witnessed two packs puff in the air, neither pack was heavily abused and they actually failed during normal flight. Nothing strenuous was being done. One puffed because of age so you can take this one out of the equation and just assume you probably wouldn't use an old pack. The other was brand new and a cell went bad. It had a handful of flights and no real reason to go bad. Actually got the battery replaced by the manufacturer who also scratched their head as to why it went bad. Bottom line is its not the fact of can a battery go bad and fail its just a matter of when.

I have always flown a separate receiver pack on anything larger than a 500, just my way of doing things. I have seen several people who fly BEC with no RX pack. To each their own.

Fly it like you stole it. -Team Heliproz- -Morgan Fuel-

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01-26-2012 07:23 PM  6 years agoPost 11
Terrabit

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Seattle, WA - USA

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A bad solder joint can also cause a flight pack to fail. Never happened to me though. It's less of a concern with quality packs. I used 2s 2100mAh LiFe packs for my 700N. LiFe packs maintain current through the discharge cycle more consistently than LiPos do. What that looks like is a flatter discharge curve. I used the BEC of Jive esc's for years without issue, including my 700E.

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01-26-2012 10:00 PM  6 years agoPost 12
Aces

rrApprentice

Georgetown Tx

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thanks guys
I will definately run a seperat pack for the flight controls.

Did he crash? Dang, I missed it!

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01-26-2012 11:41 PM  6 years agoPost 13
flyride

rrKey Veteran

Salt Lake City UT

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I have been running the pro bec off one main pack and have had no problems. My question is if a cell dies don't you still have power from the other cells to power the receiver? Maybe not the motor but the receiver only needs 6-5v do you should still have control of the heli. I have had packs with dead cells but it still has power. I could see a bad solder cutting power to the whole pack, am I missing something?

and the blonde said "RECTUM, Hell damn near killed em!!"

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01-27-2012 12:00 AM  6 years agoPost 14
Stephen Born

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USA

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I could see a bad solder cutting power to the whole pack
No soldering for me. Bought the packs brand new. For my 700e cameraship, I choose to use a seperate pack. All I know is the battery was fine when I put it in the heli. Once the heli fell out of the sky, the heli was puffed with one bad cell.

I just feel better having a seperate battery for electronics, and batteries for motor.

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01-27-2012 01:10 AM  6 years agoPost 15
flyride

rrKey Veteran

Salt Lake City UT

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I guess my question is did you still have control of the heli when the pack died or did the receiver lose power also?

and the blonde said "RECTUM, Hell damn near killed em!!"

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01-27-2012 01:13 AM  6 years agoPost 16
Stephen Born

rrElite Veteran

USA

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No control. Heli dropped but has 710mm blades which allowed the heli to float. I was fortunate enough that the heli didnt just take off on its own. OR crash.

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01-27-2012 01:18 AM  6 years agoPost 17
Stephen Born

rrElite Veteran

USA

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I would like to add that I had a similar experience last summer with a bad Turnigy batt. I had my receiver and all electronics on a seperate pack. Was able to have complete control, and auto perfectly. As long as the volt output on the Rx pack is good, no matter what happens to the esc, motor, or battery, you still have control for autos.

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01-27-2012 01:54 AM  6 years agoPost 18
Terrabit

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA - USA

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No soldering for me. Bought the packs brand new. For my 700e cameraship, I choose to use a seperate pack. All I know is the battery was fine when I put it in the heli.
I was referring to factory solder joints. I read a post by, I believe it was Laughingstill Ron, about a factory solder joint that failed in flight. It was a DC-UP Mark 2 that allowed him to auto without a separate rx pack. Another option to consider.

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01-27-2012 02:19 AM  6 years agoPost 19
Stephen Born

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USA

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I was referring to factory solder joints. I read a post by, I believe it was Laughingstill Ron, about a factory solder joint that failed in flight. It was a DC-UP Mark 2 that allowed him to auto without a separate rx pack. Another option to consider.
Gotcha. I just spoke with Ron (laughingstill). He is doing good. He is one of the "good guys" here on RR.

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01-27-2012 02:58 AM  6 years agoPost 20
Terrabit

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Seattle, WA - USA

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I agree completely.

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