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HelicopterMain Discussion › Nick maxwell on making bearings live longer
12-19-2011 01:40 AM  5 years agoPost 1
hbk2owner

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indianapolis,​Indiana

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12-19-2011 05:04 AM  5 years agoPost 2
DS 8717

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I use to do this years ago,one problem i had with muffler pressure for the fuel tank is when the muffler pumped the ATF into the fuel tank it wouldnt mix with the fuel because its petrolem based and it formed a very snotty substance that would plug up my fuel filter.I went to using castor oil but the only problem with that was it stained the muffler a little but it really worked good at keeping the bearings rust free....I use to pull the glow plug and squit the castor in the engine with the piston all the way down so it would get into the whole engine and coat everything.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE..IF YOU LIVE IT RIGHT THATS ALL YOU NEED

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12-19-2011 06:00 AM  5 years agoPost 3
Dood

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Wescanson

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did anyone notice the nitro Logo 600 in the background?

  ▲
▲ ▲

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12-19-2011 07:32 AM  5 years agoPost 4
aliosha323

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Los Angeles,​California

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Ya what's up with that logo!? I couldn't tell if it had a muffler or not but Deff interesting????

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12-19-2011 10:00 AM  5 years agoPost 5
LaurenceGough

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Reading, UK

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Watch at YouTube

www.laurencegough.com
Sponsors:
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12-19-2011 11:12 AM  5 years agoPost 6
mdu6

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Montreal

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That Nitro Logo 600 comes from one of our friend and local builder.

See the video here:

Watch at YouTube

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12-19-2011 02:31 PM  5 years agoPost 7
unclejane

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santa fe, NM, USA

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I always used ATF in the past to do long term storage and it has always worked well. But that was on my plank engines that didn't have any petroleum-sensitive pumps, regulators, etc.

With those, my philosophy is to generally avoid putting anything into them that doesn't normally already go in if I can help it. So in the event I do need to pickle an engine, I try to just use a regular 2-stroke lube. Some lubricants, tho, specifically say they shouldn't be used as storage lubes, so I obey those warnings in those cases.

I agree with 8717 that castor makes a good storage lube, though it can thicken up and even get gummy over a long period of time. So it may require some cleanup when taking it out of storage unless you've used it very sparingly. Also, plugging every orifice and wrapping in a plastic bag helps with that.
But it really does a good job preventing corrosion....

LS

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12-19-2011 02:39 PM  5 years agoPost 8
Pistol Pete

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Seffner, FL

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http://www.corrosionx.com

Period.

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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12-19-2011 02:50 PM  5 years agoPost 9
Ronald Thomas

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Gainesville, Fl, USA

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No need to take the motor apart to use the ATF. When I rand nitro boats a while ago, we would just run the ATF through the motor after each run. The motors would last for years without any bearing failures. Just connect a bowl of ATF to a carb line, remove the plug, turn the motor over until the ATF sprays out the top for 15 seconds or so. The motor will last a LONG time as long as you don't run it lean

Team MikadoUSA 480XXTreme, 550SX, 600SX, 700XXTreme, 800XXTreme!!

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12-19-2011 02:58 PM  5 years agoPost 10
KevinB

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Saskatoon,​Saskatchewan, Canada

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I used YS safe after run oil whenever the engines will sit for a while without use.

Works great and you don't have to worry about damaging diaphrams, check valves, etc.

KevinB

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12-19-2011 04:16 PM  5 years agoPost 11
400 flyer

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maryland, usa

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kevinB, were did you get that oil? thanks.

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12-19-2011 04:21 PM  5 years agoPost 12
Pistol Pete

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Seffner, FL

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google the label...

http://www.pspec.com/results.asp?keywords=oil

~~Enjoying the hobby one flight at a time~~

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12-19-2011 04:58 PM  5 years agoPost 13
Four Stroker

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Atlanta

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Works great. Forget about ATF. Sometimes you get bad advice from celebrities.

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12-19-2011 05:15 PM  5 years agoPost 14
400 flyer

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maryland, usa

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thanks pete .

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12-19-2011 06:52 PM  5 years agoPost 15
nickmaxwell

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Huntsville, AL

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Hi guys,
I am very open to other ideas and opinions on what might work best for this situation or goal of extending the life of a rear bearing.

But just curious for my own knowledge, @ Four Stroker, why would using the ATF be "BAD" advise?

I understand if not applied correctly it could find its way down and could sit in the check valve, but I would hope that is not what is making this bad advise. Several very good modellers use this technique and with the proper application (amount, time drained, and not turning the motor over to push the ATF into the check valve for a long period of time)for general engine condition, and rust prevention, this has proven to be a great solution.

In general once starting to fly the very little amount of ATF that might pass through the check valve upon first running the engine after doing this, will not damage the diaphram. It would have to sit, soaking it for an extended period of time to do any damamge. I did not explain that well in the video.

Thanks,
Nick Maxwell

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12-19-2011 07:14 PM  5 years agoPost 16
DS 8717

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No need to take the motor apart to use the ATF. When I rand nitro boats a while ago, we would just run the ATF through the motor after each run. The motors would last for years without any bearing failures. Just connect a bowl of ATF to a carb line, remove the plug, turn the motor over until the ATF sprays out the top for 15 seconds or so. The motor will last a LONG time as long as you don't run it lean
I did the same thing when i raced boats,which i might add we used 60% nitro in. At the end of the bay we pulled the engine out and flushed it with mineral spirts and then flooed it with ATF and sealed in a baggie. Never had rust,and these engines sometimes took a dive and went totally under water. ATF is a great rust preventative,i never saw the inside af an automatic transmittion that was rusted inside and i rebuilt a lot of them.ATF could cause the diaphrams to swell in YS engines and the check valve in the newer OS HZ engines.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE..IF YOU LIVE IT RIGHT THATS ALL YOU NEED

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12-19-2011 08:40 PM  5 years agoPost 17
MarshallB

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Middle Arkansas

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The ATF works very well if done properly. I use it on every rebuld before it's cranked, and occasionally drip it on the rear bearing. It does work well. Been doing it for awhile.


CurtisYoungblood.com
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Spyder Batteries

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12-19-2011 09:03 PM  5 years agoPost 18
MikeyD_From_Indy

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Carmel, In

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Nick
Thanks for sharing. Looks allot like we do for the "Nelsons" Wink Wink! Forgive my ignorance, what if anything do you do for the front bearing?

For the long hard Winters, and or the anal-retentive...many of my competition motors(Non Heli) have been taken apart. Crank is removed, but bearings remain in the case. Crank and bearings are lubricated in hydraulic oil, Marvel Mystery Oil works good too, but I personally like the Performance Specialties stuff. Anyway once you lube it up stick it in a food processor bag suck the air out and seal it (if you have one). The longest I have stored an engine using this technique is a year, and have yet to see any rust.

Mikey D

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12-19-2011 09:11 PM  5 years agoPost 19
DS 8717

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Back when i flew control line speed,we only had castor oil no synthetics.I have a ETA 29 engine that was stored for over 30 years,i flushed the engine with ATF and ran it and the bearings were in perfect condition.i dont remeber adding any oil after we ran them but if we did it was castor.these engines didnt have carbs so the engines were always ran out of fuel and quit.

YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE..IF YOU LIVE IT RIGHT THATS ALL YOU NEED

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12-19-2011 10:02 PM  5 years agoPost 20
jgunpilot

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Pollock, LA

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I think I'd rather replace a bearing that do all that. It's kind of like the Shell Oil pamphlet on the 47 easy things to check on your car before going on family vacation. Most people just make sure they have booze and a credit card, then hit the open road.

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Nick maxwell on making bearings live longer
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