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HelicopterHIROBOHirobo SDX › Conversion of SDX to FBL
12-13-2011 11:16 PM  5 years agoPost 1
Wyorcflyer

rrVeteran

Cheyenne, Wyoming USA

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Thanks to everyone that responded especially TMoore and Dr Ben who paved the way with their conversions.

I already had the D3 Ali washout base, 414-465 is the part number, so I used Ben's suggestion. Unlike my initial impression the base is thick enough to allow a 3mm X 3mm set screw. I therefore put the set screw out in the open so I could easily adjust and maintain it. (See pic below). I put one set screw on each side. The arms are stock FB arms with the radius arm relocated to the long arm and the short arm cut off. I wasn't going to cut off the short arm but I had to drill out the long arm for the pin so it would not have been reusable for FB, so I cleaned them up. Works with no interference and as Ben noted it therefore provides alignment so there can be no phase issues.

The link is made from an MA 120-25 2.6mm X 86mm rod with 3mm threads and Rocket City links. The standoff ball on the grips is a JRP994005.

I moved the servo balls into 10mm. At 50% in the CGY750 on pitch, Ele, and Ail the result is +- 13 degrees of collective and 8 degrees of cyclic. That may be more collective and less cyclic that I want so the JR ball length may be a bit too much but there aren't many standoff balls out there with a 3mm X 7mm stud. I will adjust as needed after test flights.

Jack

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12-14-2011 12:47 AM  5 years agoPost 2
fung_jeff

rrKey Veteran

Vancouver, BC, Canada

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Why don't you try and drill a hole and put a set screw on the stock washout.. Or does it not work?

Jeffrey Fung...15 Years old - FLEET: Evo 50, Raptor 30, Trex 500, SDX's, X-Spec, Logo 10/400

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12-14-2011 01:17 AM  5 years agoPost 3
payne1967

rrElite Veteran

uk

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the align one works ok on a sceadu and freya so it should be ok on the sdx
the vario 68/25 swash driver works on the sceadu also

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12-14-2011 01:17 AM  5 years agoPost 4
Wyorcflyer

rrVeteran

Cheyenne, Wyoming USA

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Why don't you try and drill a hole and put a set screw on the stock washout.. Or does it not work?
The washout is very thin so I would not be comfortable trying that solution. Good idea though.

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12-14-2011 01:37 AM  5 years agoPost 5
Wyorcflyer

rrVeteran

Cheyenne, Wyoming USA

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Payne1967

I will check and see if the swash for the Sceadu and SDX are the same. If so I will give it a try.

Thanks

Jack

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12-14-2011 01:51 AM  5 years agoPost 6
TMoore

rrMaster

Cookeville, TN

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The Align swash driver won't work, I tried it. This is one reason that I recommended the Mikado unit.

TM

Delayed Response Operator Not Engaged

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12-14-2011 04:53 AM  5 years agoPost 7
Wyorcflyer

rrVeteran

Cheyenne, Wyoming USA

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TMoore, thanks for being the Guinea Pig.

I presume since you used the Mikado that means that you can't get the Hirobo swash driver separate from the head. I looked at MRC's site but it is so poorly organzed that even if you could purchase those parts separately you would never find them.

Thanks

Jack

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12-14-2011 05:54 AM  5 years agoPost 8
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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Jack,

Whatever will fit the Freya/Evo swash will fit the SDX swash. The diameters of the swashes are all the same. The SDX/D3 swashplates differ in their radial bearing ID which allows the 'plates to tilt more.

Stock washout arms can be used with a modest amount of trimming. You can then use a Turbulence washout base that does have enough "meat" being ali to allow for placement of one or two set screws. I've flown that piece for a washout base for 9 months on my SDX FBL. 414-465 is the part number. It's $30. It's a reasonable part to use because it keys the washout base to the existing SDX head block, thus guaranteeing perfect phasing with no fiddling.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

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12-14-2011 06:19 AM  5 years agoPost 9
GootyS

rrApprentice

Gauteng South Africa

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I used the Align driver with the SDX arms. The arms that come with the Align driver are to big but just use the SDX arms and you are good to go. It took me 10min to convert the head and im using the D3 link rods. The Hirobo FBL head is the way to go but for now this is what is working for me.

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12-23-2011 11:00 PM  5 years agoPost 10
Wyorcflyer

rrVeteran

Cheyenne, Wyoming USA

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Here is the result subject to test flight.

Thanks Everyone.

Jack

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