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HelicopterEngines Plugs Mufflers Fuel › Need help with os50 push rod
12-05-2011 12:30 AM  5 years agoPost 1
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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I have this that I saw in my engine!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcUe...be_gdata_player

It's a os50hyper. Is that bad? I am not sure what to do... Like should I change the push rod? Should I not touch it at all?

Do y'all suggest a rebuild? Is it necessary?

This is my first engine so I am asking all this! Y'all's help is greatly appreciated!

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12-05-2011 12:48 AM  5 years agoPost 2
gftazz

rrVeteran

upstate N.Y. in the​Adirondacks

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I would say it's been stretched by​over-reving and or hammering of the motor.

By hammering I mean the tuning was off or timing from plug (too hot or cold), needle settings, shims, muffler etc. making the motor run ruff and have a hammering action inside as the piston fires downward.
More likely the motor was over-reved and it stretched the lower rod out on the crankl pin or both happened causing it to take place.

I have that right now in a OS91 HZ I was starting to rebuild and so I would suggest changing the rod out as it was stressed and is slightly stretched and could finally through useage break off from that hammering action as the crank goes around and the engine fires and drives the piston and rod downward and will break and ruin the engine. Probably not worth taking a chance will end up costing way more for a rebuild or new engine.

Oh No Someone Please Stop Me Before I Go Broke With This Heli Thing!!

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12-05-2011 01:04 AM  5 years agoPost 3
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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Ok great! That's a good start. So I should change the piston rod out..

What all is constituted in an engine rebuild? This is my first engine and I got it used.. So I am not sure what would be a good time? Should I just change out a piston rod or would you suggest anything sale while I am in there. The piston looked clean to me, with a bit of a burn mark on top. Not big.. The rear bearing was good too. So would you suggest me just running it with a new piston rod?

On that same channel you might find some other videos that were posted on the same or dates around it. If you could check those out and and see why you think.

I really appreciate your help!

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12-05-2011 02:25 AM  5 years agoPost 4
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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The motor has been over revved -- outside its normal operating limits. The CONNECTING ROD (not push rod) ends are stretched out of round (or, the bronze bushing in the ends are shot).

In either case, replace the rod. A new rod looks like this:

The bottom end is on the left in that picture, and if you pay close attention, you'll see that the bronze bushing has a chamfered (beveled) edge. This is the FRONT of the rod, that chamfer provides clearance for the small radius between the rod journal on the crank and the crank web. The chamfer faces forward, toward the nose of the motor.

The piston is most likely fine, you might just want to check that the wrist pin (the pin that goes through the piston and the top end of the rod) is OK and that the holes in the piston haven't been stretched, too. The wrist pin is held in place by a couple of spring clips. The clips fit into small grooves cut into the wrist-pin holes.

The one on the left is what they look like (this one's a bit dirty), the one on the right -- well, it broke while the motor was running.

Pull one of the clips out using small needle-nosed pliers so you can remove the wrist pin. Push the wrist pin out using a toothpick or other small wooden dowel. When you put it all back together, make sure the clips are fully seated in their grooves. It wouldn't hurt to replace both retaining clips.

The piston has a small pin in its ring groove, as I recall, this pin is located at about the 1 to 2 o'clock position (looking down into the cylinder, with the crankshaft up, at the "12-o'clock" position). When you start putting things all back together, position the ring gap over that pin or you won't be able to compress the ring enough to get the piston back into the cylinder.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the rear bearing, since you bought the motor used, but that's a whole 'nother thread.

It's not rocket science to tear one of these motors down, just go slowly the first time, making notes of how it comes apart. Reverse that procedure as you put it back together.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-05-2011 09:15 AM  5 years agoPost 5
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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thank you thank you thank you for the detailed reply! really appreciate it!

can I ask, if this engine will atleast last me till Christmas... My family is plannning to get me the parts for christmas.. .. so like may be 5-6 flights... no 3D..

let m eknow sir!

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12-05-2011 05:19 PM  5 years agoPost 6
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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Can I also ask this. Is the muffler that comes with the kinetic 50 good enough for the 50 hyper engine? It's the SMS dengue mentioned in the manual too.

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12-05-2011 10:21 PM  5 years agoPost 7
gftazz

rrVeteran

upstate N.Y. in the​Adirondacks

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I wouldn't chance it myself now that you know​about it.

It could just be a matter of time before it breaks and ruins your engine completely that will cost lots more!! I would get a better good Hyper 50 muffler myself. That muffler may be too small and restrictive and choke off the engine making it hard to tune right and run smoothly and end up ruining your fresh rebuild.

Oh No Someone Please Stop Me Before I Go Broke With This Heli Thing!!

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12-05-2011 10:28 PM  5 years agoPost 8
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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can i ask why u say it might be choking? It is what comes with the heli and the manual is designed around the os 50 hyper too.

I am just asking questions..

After that video I have run the engine for a 3/4th of a gallon ... but its ok.. i'll see..

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12-06-2011 01:28 AM  5 years agoPost 9
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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As to your con rod. It might last 100 flights, it might fail the next time out, something appears to be seriously wrong with its fit on the rod journal. If the end is stretched from over-revving the motor, it's also weakened. If the bushing is just worn out, it's still slapping around more than it needs to.

Rod, new circlips for the wrist pin, new rear bearing...you're looking at about $25.

If you run it and the rod end blows, you're looking at a new motor.

-----

Muffler. A stock muffler that comes in a kit may or may not be "good" for a given motor. It may allow the motor to run, but it may not be "tuned" to work efficiently with a given motor. The aftermarket mufflers -- Curtis Youngblood, Hatori, Zimmerman, FunTech, etc, are all purpose-designed about a particular motor and to extract maximum power. They allow you to extract about every last drop of power from the OS 50 Hyper, much more than a generic muffler found in a kit.

-----

You'll find -- if you stay around the hobby awhile -- that there is a broad spectrum of performance available for your heli for a price.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-06-2011 01:36 AM  5 years agoPost 10
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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Ok that's interesting to find. I thought just the rear bearing was like 30.. If I get boca are they cheaper?

If that's the case I'll just do the swaps myself. Just buy those things.. I thought this was all gonna cost me like 60-70 bucks. Hmmm. Please confirm about the bearing and I'll definately do it!

I can then ask for a muffler lol what would be a good one to start with CHEAP and good to start...

If you know anyone selling a multigov , please let me know, I am looking for that one too.

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12-06-2011 03:05 AM  5 years agoPost 11
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/...products_id=353

$5 for a rear bearing, Paul will treat you right.

About $16.50 for a rod from Ron's Heliproz South, and another $3.50 for the clips. Add in some postage, you're ready to fly.

-----

If you're looking for a good, cheap muffler, go on the classifieds here and see if you can find a Curtis Youngblood MP5-50 for sale. There are others, but a used MP5-50 is pretty good bang for the buck.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-07-2011 03:17 AM  5 years agoPost 12
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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Parts ordered!!! hoping for the best..

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12-08-2011 04:36 AM  5 years agoPost 13
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7RA...omment_received

tell me what you think about this?

I am not sure why, but the engine quit on me 100ft up in the air, coming out of a roll.. I had to auto it down.

I thought may be fuel was too low for it to be inverted. I fueled it .. took it up, and did a flip.. well it didnt quit right away, but sure did quit after a bit.

I leaned it I think a little to see how it'll do, but still it made a pinging sound I think, and engine died.. .

I am so confused.. I mean the idle sounds ok.. and then thr transition is sputtery.. but then it runs ok. then I lean the idle up, and it starts pinging on me. I am CONFUSED!

help!

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12-08-2011 05:58 AM  5 years agoPost 14
dkshema

rrMaster

Cedar Rapids, IA

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I didn't look at the video yet, but first, set the needles back to the original factory settings.

Go from there. If you can find an experienced flyer, get him to help teach you how to tune the carb.

The slop in the con rod isn't helping you here, as top-dead center is now somewhat variable and overall, the port timing of the motor will be a bit weird due to the slop.

-----
Dave

* Making the World Better -- One Helicopter at a time! *

Team Heliproz

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12-08-2011 07:25 AM  5 years agoPost 15
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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do you know what the factory setting for low needle is? i know that high is 1.5 out. and I also know low is cam type needle. but I am not sure what my factory default for that is.

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12-08-2011 11:18 AM  5 years agoPost 16
poerQwa

rrVeteran

Rotterdam, The​Netherlands

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The video is definitely showing too little smoke.
Did you shut it down on purpose at the end(where you auto'ed)?
If not than for sure it is too lean,
Or at least that is my experience with a .61 OS sounding the same and cutting on me. No bubbles whatsoever just way too lean.

Guidelines from previous post should be followed to re-asses the needles.

Grtz.

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12-08-2011 11:25 AM  5 years agoPost 17
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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it didnt cut, it was ideling in the end I hit throttle hold.

but it cut when it was much much higher.. lol luckily I did my first real successful auto and got it down safe.. that was nerve wrecking.

I will definately check all this again, and retune this engine. Cant believe I have gone through like a whole gallon of fuel and havent gotten it tuned still.. lol...

is there something wrong if I see a bubble sitting in my fuel filter all the time... it just chills there. does that mean my compression is not engouh? I doubled all pipe ends to get them to sit tight... donno... lemme know y'all..

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12-08-2011 10:51 PM  5 years agoPost 18
gftazz

rrVeteran

upstate N.Y. in the​Adirondacks

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Sounds like your too lean.

The idle slot should be slightly above the 3oclock horizontal position (anywhere from 2 to 2:30 position you'll find) it don't take much to go from lean to rich. Anything past horizontal will be too lean. You want a nice smooth idle if you have to bump up the trim some you'll know as it will just idle along no problem. Use an OS#8 or 7 or Enya 3 or 4 plug and if using 30% fuel set your main needle to at least 1 1/2 possiably 1 3/4 out then you go in a couple 3 clicks at a time and you will possiably end up at 1 1/4 on an Align muffler unless you run a MP5 then I ended up at 1 turn out on high.

The transition should be smooth not raspy or then it's lean, if blubbery and wants to not go up smoothly and hesitates then rich.

Should have a good ammount of smoke coming out as you rev it up and it will go up smoothly to hover and beyond and it will drop to a perfect idle when you drop the throttle or hit hold. If it goes yeng yeng yeng yeng yeng and doesn't settle right down into an idle when you do it's too lean, if it stalls out could be too rich on the idle slot screw.

Oh No Someone Please Stop Me Before I Go Broke With This Heli Thing!!

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12-09-2011 09:37 PM  5 years agoPost 19
coolgabsi

rrApprentice

Plano TX

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hey thanks for the replies y'all.. i'll keep y'all updated!!!

can i ask one thing.. does mutilgov work fine with 6channel.. ??

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12-09-2011 09:52 PM  5 years agoPost 20
gftazz

rrVeteran

upstate N.Y. in the​Adirondacks

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I would think so. Would be only one head​speed though.

I believe it can be programed with the programer and set for a head speed unless you go back in and change it later so you don't need to use any switch on the radio just power to it from the throttle channel.

Oh No Someone Please Stop Me Before I Go Broke With This Heli Thing!!

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