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MSH Protos, Mini Protos
› New to Protos 500 and looking for seasoned advice...
08-08-2011 04:49 AM  6 years agoPost 1
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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My new wife and I got married last week and a flying buddy gave us an old Protos he had after getting the new carbon one when it came out. Anyway, we've got a base 500 bird kit minus the head. I'm to understand I need to convert a stocker to FBL correct?

My sig shows what I fly now but looking for something I can beat on and not have to wait two weeks for parts before I can rebuild. This Protos should fit the bill nicely. I'm looking at VBar 5.1 mini (I assume that's required due to size?) and some digi servos. The going word seems to be 9650s I take it. Any other suggestions for a solid FBL setup? For tail it seems widely varied since a full-size fits so I might grab another 8900 or a BLS251. Any other suggestions?

The bird has the stock ESC/motor in it but I have no clue what the kv of it is. Any ideas out there?

Can I assume this stock motor/esc can hang for a while without needing some TLC/upgrades? Eventually I'd probably go with a Kontronic 55amp so if I don't have to upgrade the esc then that's good news for a while.

The typical choice for batts seems to be 6S ~2600mah? Any other suggestions?

I've been around the block with all the Align birds, one Compass, a few Logos and now a TDR so I'm familiar with all the conversion equations and all. I'm just looking for typical setup advice for a guy looking for something cheap to beat on and learn new stuff with. Decent-to-'nice' items are what I'm looking for. Not a "budget build" but not a "no holds barred" either. Something midway or up kind of thing.

Any advice you guys got I'd be happy to hear it. I'm coming from the Mikado and Henseleit forums but looking forward to hanging with you fellas now too.

Name's Dale, nice to meet y'all.

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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08-08-2011 05:26 AM  6 years agoPost 2
CX1

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Canada

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you will love the mini v
you should also buy this part to save your servos in a crash
http://rcflightstore.com/product_in...roducts_id=2844

the motor is a 880kv the stock ESC should do you fine or you could get this 1
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._w_5A_SBEC.html

for the tail I use a 9254 works very well

don't use a kontronic it will probably get killed in a crash

for parts try
infinityhobbies
experiencerc
rcflightstore
readyheli

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08-08-2011 05:49 AM  6 years agoPost 3
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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So don't use this but use this instead. Check!

I'm not really game on buying a Hobbywing just to put a Kontronik in it later if the stocker can hang for a while. The 880kv I suspected but wasn't for sure of. Thanks

Ultimately, this thing is our wedding present so eventually I told the woman we'd do up 100% nut-out and keep it forever. I'm just looking at what I need to get her up but not get anything I'd replace later ya know. Really, a year from now this thing will have everything they make for it as far as "bling" goes just cuz it is what it is to us. I'd just like to get it in the air initially with some goodies that I don't have to toss in the bin later for something I should've bought to begin with.

I learned long ago that your bird is only as good as it's electronics. That methodology is how I've built every bird I've had since. I don't mind splurging for electronics when it's needed. But platform upgrades needed to insure reliability and all I'm all about. If the bearing/servo mounts is compatable with the carbon frame I'll own sometime inside of the next 365 days then I'll drop it on first thing as insurance.

I appreciate the tips man. Keep it in one piece.

PS: Crashing isn't something you should ever think about or prepare for. The hobby you're in is to FLY, not stuff your money in the grass. Kontronik is the best and that's what it'll have. If I was tripping on crashing I wouldn't own a Henseleit Three Dee Rigid.

Incidentally, how's the gov in the stock esc?

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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08-08-2011 06:01 AM  6 years agoPost 4
CX1

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Canada

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thats a good attitude fo sure
I was just being practical
my buddy had a kontronic in his 1 crash and it was protoasted
the metal heat sink on the turnigy will stop it from getting crunched
I also added some info to the post above
yes the cnc servo frame will work with the carbon frames

I never had the stock ESC so I can't comment on it

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08-08-2011 06:04 AM  6 years agoPost 5
CX1

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Canada

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get the 9650's and put this gear set in them
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...o_Gear_Set.html

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08-08-2011 10:10 AM  6 years agoPost 6
baby uh1

rrVeteran

St. James, Mo.

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First thing, make sure that you have the anti-static mods. done! Do not fly without them!
Second, make sure that the belt is tight, front and back.
Lastly, hang on for a good ride!

Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!

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08-08-2011 03:31 PM  6 years agoPost 7
Paul Woodcock

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Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Hi

I had a 'early' carbon fit.

They originally came with LogiTec 80a esc or something like that. They work fine. Tareq's videos are all with that esc....
Later they changed to the YGE 60A esc. I have only tried it in my Mini Protos. It is VERY good...... I would not bother changing either. The stock motor and esc ran very hot here in Dubai..... Thinking about it, so did the batteries and me!!! With FBL, a smaller pinion may be better on the equipment.

I had the JR 3517Mg. I am a Futaba guy, but liked these JR servos better than the 9650. I would probably get the bls version of the 9650 now though.

The only think I didn't like, was the soft dampers. They are a triple o ring setup. I wish it had been a one piece damper. I have seen epoxy on the dampers giving a nice hard setup.....

Regards
Paul

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08-08-2011 03:46 PM  6 years agoPost 8
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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This one has the YGE60 in it so figured the gov would probably be fine. The motor kv I wondered about but figured it would be around 880 like the above poster confirmed. The dampeners being soft and O-rings is something I'm familiar with from the Logos and TDR. I'd venture a small bet that Trueblood will have me covered in that area. Appreciate the info on that one too.

I'm not sure what pinion it has on it now but it's the one he used to run so I figured I had a good chance of being all set with what's in there now. Just wanted to check with everybody first.

I looked at those Futaba servos, think they were called BLS152's or something like that. They sure are proud of those puppies aren't they, lol. I was wondering what servos JR had for me but hadn't gotten around to digging in that direction yet. Appreciate the heads up on that one as well. I've got the optical tach so I'll check the headspeed on it's maiden. I'm assuming I'm shooting for the same speeds as the TRex 500ESP (~2800?) I'll be tossing on some Radix 430's but I'll check to see if the new V2's he just released come in that size too.

One trick on the Logos to stiffen the head a tad is to not lube the rings when you install them but anything more than that you hunt down Trueblood. I never considered KBDD ones an equal match so am kind of loyal to TB. Sorry KBDD fans! Still <3 ya though.

I seem to remember my buddy having a hot motor we used to talk about a year or so ago but he never upgraded. I'm sure I'll find something nice for it sometime but Hacker makes a nice A40 that fit in the 500 nicely from Align. We'll see what happens when I travel down that road.

Right now it's 120F everyday so haven't been able to fly in over a month and have until October before I can even think about it again. Waking up at 4AM to 95F outside sucks for about 3 months a year here. But hey, we don't get that stuff....what's it called again?...it's white I think and falls from the sky... OH YEAH!! SNOW!!! Nope, don't get that here so when you're digging out your car for work in the morning I'm waking up to 55F and packing the car to go fly. :P Every place has it's advantages I'm sure.

Anyway, appreciate the tips fellas. You'll make my life a lot happier not having to hit these potholes alone along the way. Fun flying and safe landings guys.

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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09-15-2011 03:38 PM  6 years agoPost 9
RCSavager

rrKey Veteran

Topeka, KS

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After brewing on it for a week or so I decided that a wedding present was worth more than just a stock build.

Yesterday I ordered up a full carbon kit, FBL conversion and the stretch kit for the new build. I've already been delivered the mini-vbar, 3 x JR 3517's and a Futaba 9254. The only thing needed now will be some batts, misc wires, rx, the lowered head and some spare time. I'll check the servo mounts when I build it next week and see if some cnc in that area should be done now or later. Otherwise everything should go well.

I appreciate the tips and I'll be addressing them all as I go. Wish us luck guys. I'll take some pics as things come together.

RC

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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09-15-2011 07:13 PM  6 years agoPost 10
integy2

rrVeteran

California USA

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You'll love this heli,
ESC (get a good one)
anti-static mods (must)
Enjoy.....

(Good flight end up with ...... big smile :D)

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09-15-2011 10:07 PM  6 years agoPost 11
Funknrock

rrApprentice

San Marcos, CA

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I have both the P-500 and the Mini-P and love them both! MSH makes an AWESOME heli! quiet, fast and fairly easy to work on and if they every make a 600 size heli i'll be explaining why there is yet anohter big heli in the garage!

on the P-500 I have Align DS510s on the cyclic and a Savox (Align re-brand DS520) on the tail. I prefer the Align servos over JR as they are very easy to change out gear sets when you do have an incident. i had JRs and just couldn't get the pot centered just right in order for them to work again. Futaba servos are also great, just $10 more each.

I did get the FBL upgrade head from MSH but a good friend is using the RJX CNC head and it is a bit more stable and won't break in a crash. the stock plastic grips break pretty much every time. RJX bearings, feathering shaft, and dampers are same as Align so easy to find when needed.

stock motor and ESC are fine with a 13t pinion but will need the motor adapter. you'll have to trim the stock motor shaft down to make it work or buy the short motor shaft and swap it out. A Voltz 6S 2600mah 35C batt is what i use.

as posted before, you MUST make the anit-static mods! the servos will glitch to high hell and you'll wind up upside down and in the dirt before you know what happened (it was a rough day )

i've never used the Vbar set-up, i'm using the Microbeast and it is so far, rock solid. in fact i have it on 4 of my 5 helis. both Protos and Align trex500/600. At $200 it really has been the best!

one other mod you should consider is cutting the top off the slot on the carbon frame over the elevator servo. if you ever need to work on them you can easily remove the bearing blocks with the servos all in one without having to remove the elevator servo first. you can also easily get everything leveled out before mounting it all back in the frames then remembering "DAMN! i left off the arm screw!" (another rough day)

well, these are just a few things i have learned since getting my Protos(s)

happy Flying!

My crashes are cooler than your flying! ;^)

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09-16-2011 01:22 PM  6 years agoPost 12
CX1

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Canada

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A building tip:
center your servo arms on the bench prior to installing on the kit
by using a spare rx to do it.

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09-16-2011 03:36 PM  6 years agoPost 13
rcnut

rrElite Veteran

Rockford, Illinois

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CX1...in order for me to do that...first I need to upgrade the Beast X to V3, then program the Beast X for the servos I'm using (BLS 9660A+), then center the servos.

Team Miniature Aircraft
"I love the smell of Nitro in the morning!"
...Citizen 654!

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09-16-2011 04:39 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Funknrock

rrApprentice

San Marcos, CA

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actually, you center the servos by by-passing the BeastX on the bench first. just direct to the Rx. you then complete the full set-up after everything has been installed. by making the CF frame mod i mentioned, you can install the servos on the bearing block and it will be very easy to see how close to center they are.

with the Beastx you just have to be close. make sure you have zero trim and zero sub-trim. if you have anything programed it will cause issues with the BeastX. the BeastX reads sub trim as a constant stick input and will not fly right.

My crashes are cooler than your flying! ;^)

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11-03-2011 03:19 PM  6 years agoPost 15
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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Finally got some stick time on the new bird. Flies very smooth with plenty of power. I didn't do a video but I did take our birds outside the other morning for a few pics.

The build went pretty smooth and didn't have any surprises. I blew the tail out twice flying it but I was hauling the mail in a reverse power loop at the time so I can't complain. The SAB 470's are performing well as is the rest of the bird. HeliDirect says that MSH discontinued the FBL head so I guess it's built the way it will stay.

I appreciate the advice along the way and wanted to repay your generosity with a few pics of the new family member.

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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12-08-2011 04:34 AM  6 years agoPost 16
amb1

rrNovice

S.D. CA

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Low fbl head

MSH must have modified/redesigned the head somewhat, I just got a low fbl head from a new shipment at Readyheli, just in case you wanted to give it a try...

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12-08-2011 04:42 AM  6 years agoPost 17
alexf1852

rrApprentice

Inverness, FL - U.S.

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MSH must have modified/redesigned the head somewhat, I just got a low fbl head from a new shipment at Readyheli, just in case you wanted to give it a try...
Just in case...that new FBL head is for stretched Protos only.

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12-08-2011 05:11 AM  6 years agoPost 18
RCSavager

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Topeka, KS

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I tried to buy it last month but was told that it was discontinued. I got an email the other day saying they were back in stock. /shrug

If you get a minute take a pic for us. If it looks good I might have to drop the $30 for it.

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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12-12-2011 03:16 PM  6 years agoPost 19
RCSavager

rrKey Veteran

Topeka, KS

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I've got about 20 flights on our FBL stretch and it's pretty crazy how hard you can throw it around. During a "close-one" with another heli I had hit hold about 30 feet up the other weekend. This might be the time to say that I haven't tried to do that with this small of a heli before. When I hit hold I was full pitch and could see the blades almost stop. I figured it was a rock. Full negative and 20 feet later the blades just started spooling again. Five feet off the deck I gave that little bugger all it had. Made a sick slap as it hit. One blade grip and two sets of servo gears. /facepalm

Got it all back together the other day and took it back out. You'd never know it happened.

Just thought I'd chime in and give an after-the-build update. Not a bad little bird. Yesterday started some clicking in the boom so I guess that's my new project for tonight. What is the carbon tail blade of choice out there? From what I can find the 470mm stretch blades are only made by SAB? /sadface I'll have to measure them and see if Radix has something for it. Appreciate the tips along the way guys. I think I'm happy with it for a while. If it takes a hard digger I might use that to add some bling to it.

BTW, anyone else HATE the canopy colors at distance? This thing nearly disappears at 100 feet nose-in.
/me makes mental note to break out the fluorescent paint and the Iwata this week

Once you try steak, is hard to go back to hotdogs.

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12-12-2011 09:18 PM  6 years agoPost 20
CX1

rrKey Veteran

Canada

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Glad to hear you enjoying the lil bugger
they have nice aftermarket canopies available
I had conteplated getting the 470 mm blades but they're rare and more $$ the 430's which are plentiful are much less $$

I did build as a stretch version and use the 18t tail gear for tail authority at low HS.
I'm running at 2200 - 2400 HS, 90% - 100% lin not governed.
can't wait for spring

" Team Protoast "

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