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Other › Tail carbon rod issue
08-02-2011 04:37 PM  6 years agoPost 1
bopshi

rrApprentice

greenport ny

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My Logo 500 3d tail kept swing hard to left on lift off. On 3rd try when I tried working slider on ground the ball end threaded rod pulled out of rod. Has this happened to anyone else? This is 3rd season for this Heli. Does epoxy deteriorate over time? If so others beware. Dave. Bought heli used I am 3rd season user.

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08-02-2011 05:28 PM  6 years agoPost 2
gravydrive

rrApprentice

Jacksonville, FL

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Best to use JB Weld on your tail control rods. It's stronger than epoxy, you wont have this problem again.

Murphy's Law Denier

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08-02-2011 05:32 PM  6 years agoPost 3
Eury

rrProfessor

Dover NH

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Dunno if epoxy deteriorates over time, but I kinda doubt it. IIRC that was put together with JB Weld like I always do. I'd chalk it up to a freak occurrence, put it back together and go fl knowing that you should check it occasionally. I always tug on the links at the beginning of a day, including that one length wise because I've seen that happen before.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

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08-02-2011 05:36 PM  6 years agoPost 4
dxflyer

rrApprentice

Bay area, California

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Vibrations and other factors makes the bond weak after some time. This has happened to 2 of my helis and after switching to jb weld no problems so far after 100s of flights.

Logo 600 12S vbar, Logo 500 vbar
Protos FBL vbar

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08-02-2011 06:05 PM  6 years agoPost 5
ourbail

rrNovice

Ca,USA

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+1 on the jb weld ,way better than 5 min epoxyand also wrap sewing thread around rod metal ,than cover with some shrink tubing...

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08-02-2011 06:18 PM  6 years agoPost 6
Eury

rrProfessor

Dover NH

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Unless it was one of those days when I ran out and didn't have time to get more (rare), It was put together with JB Weld.

Nick Crego

Citizen #0168

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08-03-2011 12:20 AM  6 years agoPost 7
LaurenceGough

rrElite Veteran

Reading, UK

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I've never had an issue using epoxy which is very strong, don't use the 5 min stuff though...

Recently had my first crash after a year or so flying my Logo and it didn't come out without first cracking the carbon rod..

www.laurencegough.com
Sponsors:
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OPTIFUEL
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08-03-2011 01:13 AM  6 years agoPost 8
johnnie eagle

rrApprentice

Florham Park, NJ 07932

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Jb weld

I used jb weld and found it to to brittle. It came apart after a few flights so I did the one sur repair. I had a tail rod from a vibe, so I slipped it into the carbon rod. I put ca on the rod when I put it in the rod. Cut it to length and threaded the end. Now I can actually adjust the rod length if I want. It's bullet proof.

Team Minicopter - Peak Aircraft, Team Kontronik USA

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08-03-2011 01:23 AM  6 years agoPost 9
bopshi

rrApprentice

greenport ny

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carbon tail issue

Tried pulling out other ball end and it came out. Epoxy was yellowed like ive seen on old boats. Put ball end all the way on metal rod as carbon rod is cut to exact length so u only have to make it longer to fit. That way I got more threaded rod in carbon fiber rod this time. Also put JR landing gear on it is tougher. Not complaining just made this thread to warn others. Will be part of my things to watch closely list. and hopefully I will learn not to panic no matter what and land hard enough to break LG . Dave

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08-03-2011 02:44 AM  6 years agoPost 10
eddiscus

rrElite Veteran

Dumont, NJ-USA

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One other thing I also do is wrap the carbon rod where the threaded piece is epoxied in place. I wrap it with nylon thread then soak with thin CA.

I think over time without the wrap the carbon rod ends develop micro cracks and become loose over time.

Logo Xxtreme 800
Logo 700
Citizen 142
Synergy 766
TDR 2

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08-03-2011 08:57 AM  6 years agoPost 11
Paul Woodcock

rrElite Veteran

Dubai - United Arab Emirates

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Hi guys

I think the big problem is the inside of the cardon tube needs to be 'roughed up' really well before glueing the rod in. I use a small round file or rolled up sand paper and try rotate it. This puts scratches around the inside and helps the epoxy key to the carbon. Just don't force a slightly big file in.... The tube will crack easily.

I also grind 2 or 3 flat spots towards the rod inner end. just so it could never rotate or slip out, even if the epoxy cracks loose.

I have never had a rod come out, except in a crash where the carbon tube was in pieces and split open at the end.

I have had a threaded rod break, where it exited the carbon. I now use a regular pushrod in preference to a threaded rod. I just have to grind a few flat spots on it for the epoxy to 'grip' the rod.

Regards
Paul

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