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HelicopterMain Discussion › Logo 400 - Am I Crazy?
08-02-2011 11:58 AM  6 years agoPost 21
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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But a learner can easily get 8-10 mins out of an electric if they are shown how. Elecric flight times only get annoying when you start 3Ding.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-02-2011 03:34 PM  6 years agoPost 22
wgeorge111

rrApprentice

West Palm Beach, Fl

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I think it is a good choice, however, I would get the Logo 400SE.

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08-03-2011 01:20 AM  6 years agoPost 23
dw12

rrApprentice

pennellville new york u.s.

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Just go with the 500 with 550 blades,what a first heli that would be!

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08-03-2011 01:26 AM  6 years agoPost 24
hopetohover

rrNovice

New Jersey

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LOL! Not sure I could afford the repair costs! Logo 400 is just about in the budget...

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08-03-2011 03:59 AM  6 years agoPost 25
CX1

rrKey Veteran

Canada

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a Protos 500 is cheap to repair and parts are easy to find online.
bigger is better, smaller is $$$$
if it's your first heli. go FBL rite-away save your time and money
flybarred heli's are more difficult to set-up and an unnecessary expense after a crash

my big mistakes learning are:

Don't buy into this" bling" you don't need it to be cnc to fly it.

if it needs upgrades to fly well, trash it rite away and save your money.

trying to pinch pennies will cost you dollars

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08-03-2011 04:09 AM  6 years agoPost 26
1800bigk

rrNovice

ohio

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anything larger than 325 mm blades and you're asking for trouble.
This is not true. Before electrics were popular everybody learned on a 30 size nitro and they have 550mm blades. Get the biggest heli you can afford to crash without getting upset.

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08-03-2011 10:05 AM  6 years agoPost 27
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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flybarred heli's are more difficult to set-up and an unnecessary expense after a crash
Isn't this the wrong way round?
Get the biggest heli you can afford to crash without getting upset.
Yeah sod it, go out and buy a Kasama 700E or TDR as your first heli! To a beginner 450 crash costs can be upsetting let alone anything else!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 01:58 PM  6 years agoPost 28
CX1

rrKey Veteran

Canada

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flybarred heli's are more difficult to set-up and an unnecessary expense after a crash
Isn't this the wrong way round?
if a new guy starts with a mini V-bar. he will find it alot easier to set-up VS flybarred.(less links easy to follow and set-up v-bar)

after a crash he will save money on parts ( no more mangled flybars)
and after a while the money saved on flybars will help pay for the mini-V

plus the new pilot will actualy get sim like flying with FBL

ya it adds to the start-up cost but it more of an investment than a luxury

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08-03-2011 02:18 PM  6 years agoPost 29
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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after a crash he will save money on parts ( no more mangled flybars)
and after a while the money saved on flybars will help pay for the mini-V
He could have 100 flybars for the cost of a mini-v! What about the extra cost of FBL blades?

Building a flybarred kit is easier, follow the instructions in the manual and your done. With FBL you have to follow both the kits manual and the FBL units manual! Oh and you don't need a computer to set a flybarred heli!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 02:40 PM  6 years agoPost 30
mlucia

rrKey Veteran

Essex Jct., Vermont

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You just will not progress as fast starting with a 500 or larger heli here's why:
Sorry, i will disagree with this. I would say the exact opposite.
I think you will find a general statement from people that learned on a 450 and moved to something bigger would be something like "I wish I would have stared with a 500 or even 600". There is a big difference in size and stability between a 450 and 500 even. The parts costs is very little difference and the flying characteristics are much better.

It's just plain easier to fly a larger machine in every aspect.

my .002

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08-03-2011 02:48 PM  6 years agoPost 31
CX1

rrKey Veteran

Canada

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He could have 100 flybars for the cost of a mini-v! What about the extra cost of FBL blades?
we are talking about multiple parts associated with a flybar, not just a rod.
even if it takes 10 crashes to pay for a v-bar, it will pay for itself.

Yes you need a computer to set it the first time and once it set that it your done.
besides most households have a computer nowadays
Building a flybarred kit is easier, follow the instructions in the manual and your done. With FBL you have to follow both the kits manual and the FBL units manual!
If you can read 1 manual, 2 shouldn't be a problem
oh and don't forget to read the manual for your radio and reciever and tail gyro.
FBL you have 2 links from the swash to grips
with FB you have 6
Hmmm 2 or 6 which is easier

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08-03-2011 02:55 PM  6 years agoPost 32
maxxteezy

rrApprentice

texas

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Some of the guys you meet in the rc world will tell you just about anything. Some might even tell you to get some cheap small crappy pos 450 or coax simply because thats all they could afford to fly or learn with. Take it from someone who has had every size heli made pretty much....get the 400 Logo. I spent tons of cash on rebuilding my smaller helis before I wised up and bought a 600, and my learning curve went up tremendously. I was crashing the little pos elecs 3 to times a day, because they are harder to fly. I hardly ever crashed once I stepped up to a nice sized machine! Much more stable, reliable, and parts on a logo a cheap. I owned a Logo 600 for a couple of years, before every one jumped on the Mikado or flybarless train. Get a sim, learn the basics, then surround yourself with other skilled pilots that will help you learn and take it slow, you will be fine.

YardBird Rc
Team Hardcore
Team LunaTickz
Mikes Hobby Shop

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08-03-2011 03:06 PM  6 years agoPost 33
Heli-on

rrVeteran

Southern Cali, CA - USA

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I love that a 450 and 500 cost the same to crash. You guys have to tell me where you're getting your parts because I'm easily paying double. I would say that 500 crash cost is closer to a 600's than a 450's.

The biggest thing you're gaining with larger sizes is its easier to see. Things also tend to happen more slowly and those microseconds are precious to someone starting out, for sure. But, telling someone to sacrifice safety to compensate for their lack of skill is crazy. Does it sound better stating it that way?

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08-03-2011 03:07 PM  6 years agoPost 34
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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Learning to fly any size heli isn't easy! However you can set up any size heli to be as easy or as hard to fly as you like almost!

Ok a 500 at a push is a good beginner heli but anything bigger is just stupid.

My opinions are based on someone wanting to learn to fly nose in, inverted, loops, pattern, 3D etc. not stuck hovering tail in doing lazy eights because they are too scared to try anything else!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 03:12 PM  6 years agoPost 35
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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I spent tons of cash on rebuilding my smaller helis before I wised up and bought a 600, and my learning curve went up tremendously. I was crashing the little pos elecs 3 to times a day, because they are harder to fly. I hardly ever crashed once I stepped up to a nice sized machine!
Sounds to me like you simply got your learning curve sorted out with the 450 which is why you didn't hardly crash by the time you got the bigger heli, that and being scared to try new stuff on the big heli!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 03:15 PM  6 years agoPost 36
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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we are talking about multiple parts associated with a flybar, not just a rod.
Only the flybar gets bent in 9 out of 10 crashes though and even then you can straighten it out most of the time.

What about bending main blade grip arms on FBL because of the extended balls on them!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 03:16 PM  6 years agoPost 37
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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and parts on a logo a cheap
Not what ive seen!

E.g. Logo 400 main shaft:

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/mik...aft-p-5153.html

Trex 500 main shaft:

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/h50...aft-p-3613.html

Nearly half the price and you get 2!!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 03:17 PM  6 years agoPost 38
CX1

rrKey Veteran

Canada

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my first real rc heli was a Hawk Pro ( guess I'm stupid )

a 450 can just as easily hurt you and alot of people get hurt with a small heli because they think they are safer.

any Heli can be dangerous to ones person

I say start with sim then go to a 500 up to a 600
Only the flybar gets bent in 9 out of 10 crashes though and even then you can straighten it out most of the time.

What about bending main blade grip arms on FBL because of the extended balls on them!
what about the paddles? or the flybar cage or the bearings that hold it all together
blade grips arent a problem for me either I use the plastic version because something has to break in a crash

for every negative reason you give for FBL I can give you 2 positives for going FBL.

Have you owned or even flown a fbl heli yet ?

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08-03-2011 03:23 PM  6 years agoPost 39
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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I say start with sim then go to a 500 up to a 600
Good advice.... Then maybe get a 450 for practicing new moves that you daren't try on the 600!

60% of the time, it works every time!

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08-03-2011 03:27 PM  6 years agoPost 40
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

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what about the paddles? or the flybar cage or the bearings that hold it all together
Never broken any of these things!

I have flown a few helis with various FBL units yes.

60% of the time, it works every time!

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Logo 400 - Am I Crazy?
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