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Compass
Atom 6HV › Compass 6HV Quality (MAIDEN UPDATE!!)
04-08-2011 09:08 PM  6 years agoPost 1
JOLT

rrVeteran

Baltimore, MD

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I am working on the build now. This isn't my first "Rodeo".

I bought the kit after many Align Kits. I have been spoiled I guess because the 6Hv is an unusual design from the boom back. Needed to do some drilling and sanding to get things lined up.

I am almost afraid to put it in the air with the boom the way it is. There is a slot in the front of the boom where it looks like it should line up with raised plastic on the inside of the boom block. My boom block is smooth on the inside all the way around. There is no way to line this tail boom up to fit?? I can see this boom ejecting very easily on piro.

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04-08-2011 10:07 PM  6 years agoPost 2
TheBum

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McKinney, TX

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You're also apparently used to torque tubes. The boom will not eject because the belt won't let it. The clamping force of the boom case bolts is more than sufficient to keep it from turning.

As for things not fitting, I would much rather have the tolerances too tight than have a bunch of slop. You can remedy the former a lot easier than you can remedy the latter.

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04-08-2011 10:52 PM  6 years agoPost 3
fenderstrat

rrProfessor

Aston,Pa

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what exactly is not fitting?

The reason the boom has a slot is I believe it is the same boom for all the 600 size and the Knights needed a slot.

LOL,tons of guys are flying the snot out of their 6HV's and no reports of ejecting booms yet

Compass helis Support Team
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Mini Titan/SE
TEAM KBDD

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04-09-2011 02:31 AM  6 years agoPost 4
JOLT

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Baltimore, MD

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I am missing shank bolts for the head--NO JESUS BOLT. The screws are extremely soft...softer than Align if you can believe that. The tail control arms (not the grips) have a plastic seam that is splitting along the base--really splitting. There is nothing smooth about the movement of the tail assembly.

One end of the feathering spindle had loc tite (Atleast I hope) while the other end bolt came out. This makes me nervous because I can't put loc tite on it myself??

The head is nice and I like the way they put the wooden dowl through so I can follow it with the flybar, but yeesh, I would hate to have to replace and realign by hand. The plastic is extremely brittle and "toy like."

Servo installation is a monstrous PIA. When installing the spacers on the aeleron servo, the screws barely grab the mount on the back--way too short. I just wish the kit didn't come as put together as it is because I had to take it completely apart and put it back together again anyway.

My tail boom came with dings and scratches all over it and the ball links are really bad. None of them were smooth at all and again the plastic is so rigid: resizing was tricky and still leaves me wondering if something is going to pop off on the first flight.

Wiring is a mess and leaves a difficult plan of routing that looks as if a rat's nest is unavoidable....

Other than that, no problems here.

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04-09-2011 02:51 AM  6 years agoPost 5
TheBum

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McKinney, TX

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Who did you buy it from? Did you contact them about the missing and damaged parts?

Every Compass heli I've had has come with a sheet that warns about the lack of loctite on the spindle bolts.

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04-09-2011 03:19 AM  6 years agoPost 6
fenderstrat

rrProfessor

Aston,Pa

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There is nothing smooth about the movement of the tail assembly.
the tail links must be resized and sometimes it takes a few turns to get it where it needs to be.the tail should be smooth as silk once you are done.The same can be said for ALL Compass links.It is well known that they are extremely tight when new and ALL links in All kits come this way.Their reasoning for this is explained in the manual I believe.

But,the upside is they are VERY durable and once sized will stay tight and smooth for a long time.You should not have any issues with links popping off unnecesarily.

Any damage or missing parts should be immediately taken care of by the dealer.

Compass is a different design and a different heli than ALIGN.I am not saying better or worse its just different than you are used to.I hope you at least give the heli a chance,and reserve judgement till you get a few flights on her.

And do keep posting with any problems or questions,I want to see this one through to the maiden

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04-09-2011 03:27 AM  6 years agoPost 7
fenderstrat

rrProfessor

Aston,Pa

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Nothing seems to fit without drilling and sanding.
what parts did you need to drill or sand to get them to fit?

Compass helis Support Team
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Mini Titan/SE
TEAM KBDD

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04-09-2011 06:40 AM  6 years agoPost 8
RAK402

rrElite Veteran

Alhambra, CA

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Jolt,

What you have posted regarding parts quality is the polar opposite to what I have experienced on any of my Compass machines. Parts quality and hardware quality has been far superior to Align (IMHO).

Bear in mind that I own five Align machines and five Compass machines (all ten of which are in good working condition and flyable).

As "The Bum" stated, the spindle bolts are not locktited from the factory and there is a sheet stating that and instructing you to use loctite on them. I too had one that I could not easily remove (from the factory). I simply applied heat to that one, removed it, cleaned it, applied locktite and was done in a very short time.

Also, contact the distributor and let them know what is missing or defective-Compass wants to know immediately.

As "Fenderstrat" stated, you do have to size the ball links-they last a very long time as opposed to some other brand links.

I am an old man, and I built a 6HV with no problem, so you will be fine-just ask lots of questions and we will be happy to help you.

Team KBDD/Compass Team Manger/Experience RC/Team JR Americas/WR Field Rep

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04-09-2011 12:57 PM  6 years agoPost 9
Dflyer

rrApprentice

Belgium (Brugge)

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You say you're tailsection is not runnin smooth, that's because you need to ream the taillinks too. Once this is done the tail will be silky smooth.

And as others stated, just fly the heli and comment afterwards. Maybe you're having some trouble because you're not used to the Compass model heli's.

I've flown every Align helicopter and once i switched to Compass i never looked back. Bearings, machining, metal parts etc are way better than Align.

Grtz,
Dirk

Warp 360 / Compass 6 HV Ultimate/ Invertix / CY Stingray

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04-09-2011 03:44 PM  6 years agoPost 10
TheBum

rrVeteran

McKinney, TX

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You say you're tailsection is not runnin smooth, that's because you need to ream the taillinks too. Once this is done the tail will be silky smooth.
If you find the tail isn't smooth after doing that, you may also need to disassemble the floating hinge that connects the tail case to the tail slider and sand down the mating surfaces. I had to do that and the tail is smoother than on any other heli I've ever dealt with. I think you'll find the floating hinge and over-under attachment of the slider to the tail control arm to be far superior to Align's ball-and-socket design.

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04-09-2011 04:48 PM  6 years agoPost 11
hornet dave

rrKey Veteran

Cedar Rapids, IA USA

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My kit was also missing a jesus bolt.

Did they change the frames so you need to use the servo mounts? The earlier kits allowed you to screw directly into the carbon frames, it worked great and easy as pie. Compass servo mounts are a pain ( i know from the K3D days) but compass did address that by using smaller servo screw mounting holes in the sideframes that didnt require the mounts at all. It would be sad if the servo mounts are now required.

I got a fever! The only prescription is MORE 6HV

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04-10-2011 01:35 AM  6 years agoPost 12
JOLT

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Baltimore, MD

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I finished it up this evening. The build was tricky. Mostly due to breaking everything down and reassembling. If manufacturers wanted to do me a favor they would put the parts together loose enough where I could remove bolts and balls by hand then loc tite and put back together.

I had a couple bolts in my bag of Trex 550 Spare parts that were the exact size specific to the Jesus Bolt in the manual. I had to do a double take because there is not much thread biting into the M3 nut after running the bolt through the head. I put a little loc tite on it any way. The first few receiving threads of the M3 nut do not have nylon so I figured a little extra something might help for peace of mind.

Here are some pics from tonight:

I had some more issues. The phasing pin guide has a couple set screws on one side that you remove and reinstall in a set location. I managed to strip out the holes. It appears that I am supposed to put the set screws into the receiver on the same side, but I was only able to put them in holes on opposite sides of each other. I am not sure if that is a problem, but it seems fine, holds on the shaft and the phasing is smooth.

The manual really leaves something to be desired in specific instructions. Many steps leave you guessing and thinking "I hope I did that right..." I am still a little unsure of the head. I am used to the flybar cage which is very easy to set up. This was a little different, but a lot more stylish.

There is virtually no room on the inside to tuck away wires. This is the first heli that I have built that has a mess of wires everywhere. I thought of as many different ways to route, yet none of them made the heli appear any cleaner. I am not a big fan of wire wraps, so it will stay as is.

The main blades are a work of art. I did manage to get loc tite on the other side of the head feathering shaft. I put loc tite on the side (bolt) I could get off last night. Today I went back to it and was able to break free the other side. I know it was opposite side because there was no dried loc tite on the bolt. I think I am good to go.

I have not programmed the ESC yet. It's a little confusing and the instructions a miight as well be in Cantonese (clear as mud). I think I will leave that step for tomorrow morning. I set up everything with a small receiver pack in the mean time. I have not sparked it on 12S. I have everything set up with the Hercules Super BEC running a full 12S to it, but I am a little nervous to connect power. I have fried electronics in the past in situations like this, but I will cross my fingers and hit it in the morning--of course backing the pinion away from the main gear.

I have to say that this is the fastest looking heli I have ever seen, even just setting on the floor. Very sexy "Speed Demon" look to it.

One Question: the motor wires are color coded, but the ESC wires are all blue. Does it matter what gets plugged where with the Hobbywing ESC to the motor leads?

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04-10-2011 02:16 AM  6 years agoPost 13
fenderstrat

rrProfessor

Aston,Pa

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looks great

as for the esc to motor wires,hook all 3 up,if the motor turns backward,switch any 2.this holds for all bl motors

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04-10-2011 02:53 PM  6 years agoPost 14
hornet dave

rrKey Veteran

Cedar Rapids, IA USA

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It looks like your upper jesus blt is too short. You need to see threads coming out of the locknut. You also need a bolt which has a smooth shank (not threaded) where it goes through the main shaft. Fyi, the lower jesus bolt should not be tightened, it should just be snug or else the oneway assy gets distorted.

Also.... The flybar control arms look messed up. These need to be set in just the right way in order to maximixe the amount of paddle tilt available. On the compass fb heads, the flybar control arms are what limits the amount of available cyclic control. Heres what to do:

1) remove paddles
2) remove links between flybar control arms and the washout arms
3) loosen flybar arms on flybar
4) center the flybar in the head (the flybar ends sticking out of head need to be same length)
5) let one flybar arm flop all the way downwards and center it laterally within its cutout. Tighten the flybar arm.
6) raise the other flybar arm as high as it will go and center it laterally. Tighten this flybar arm.

Now the flybar arms are set to allow max deflction. When one is contacting its lower limit, the other is at its highest limit. This is the best we can do.

Now, using a caliper if you have one or the finest scale ruler you have if you dont have calipers, adjust the links from the washout assy to the flybar control arms to exactly the same length. Install the links.

Next its time to install the paddles. First you want to screw them in all the way (make sure the setscrews are plenty loose first) and then back the paddles out until they are pointed roughly in the proper direction. Measure the distance between the paddles and the little collars which hold the flybar in place. Adjust the paddles (roughly) as near as you can get them to be the same distance out and still pointing in the right direction.

Now for the final paddle adjustment. Stand back a.little from the heli so you are looking at the end of the flybar and looking towards the head. Now magine a line which goes through the ball on each flybar control arm. We need the paddles to both align with this imaginary line. Use some pliers to hold the flybar right next to the paddle to make fine adjustments, otherwise the flybar winds up like a spring and makes small adjustments impossible. Adjust the other paddle in the same way. Now both paddles should be in alignment with each other and also be in alignment with the flybar control arms.

Congrats the flyar setup is now done.

Ps - later when you make your swash adjustments, you may find that the links from the washout assy to flybar arms hit the swashplate in certain conditions. N this case you will simply shorten both of those links the same number of turns.

I got a fever! The only prescription is MORE 6HV

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04-11-2011 01:08 AM  6 years agoPost 15
Pulento

rrVeteran

CHILE

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It seems your phasing is off. The manual is wrong, advance the blades about 5-10 degrees.

As everybody stated, ream your tail links to get the tail run smooth.

Flybar arms aren't straight also.

Also, check that your tail bearings are green/red loctited against the tail case. Also check that the upper bearing on the motor, the one that is on top of the pinion is green loctited on its case.

I've had some Align kits, some JR kits and a Rave ENV. If you judge a helis by its parts termination you probably will love Aligns. If you judge helis by its tolerance and flight you will hate Aligns after you fly something like a Compass 6HV.

As any non Align kits, it have some stuff you have to get used to setup, like phasing on Compass kit.

On my 3D+ the only thing I've changed from stock it's the dampers, on my 6HV the dampers and the paddles. Most people use KBDD dampers on Compass due its durability, in my case I got some KBDD Extreme paddles for the 6HV because with stock paddles it was sooooo fast

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04-11-2011 08:07 AM  6 years agoPost 16
charliedoane

rrApprentice

Branford, CT USA

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I really like the quality of the 6HV. Only have one little criticism is the mounting of the phasing ring. The setscrews mar the main shaft and need to sand down the ridge left by the indentation on the main shaft in order to remove the swash. It's a minor thing and I feel on the other hand somewhat confident that the phasing ring will never move. There is no slop in any of the controls links or tail. It's such a great flying heli.

No Anonymity Here - Charlie Doane

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04-11-2011 09:32 PM  6 years agoPost 17
JOLT

rrVeteran

Baltimore, MD

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^^YUP. Took me an hour of trying to get that phasing bracket off last night when I was re-doing the head. It was loc tited to the shaft. A half hour of heat (Soldering Iron) and off she came....and then I had to sand/oil the shaft smooth after the set screws messed up the main shaft and caused phasing issues.

4 hours of fun last night and the geometry is lined up. I will have to go over the bearings with green loc tite as recommended--Thanks for the heads up.

The only thing I have to do now is ream the ball links and up she will go this weekend.

Timing??--I read 7.5 for extended flight times...any concensus from stock Hobbywing ESC users on this????

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04-15-2011 01:43 AM  6 years agoPost 18
JOLT

rrVeteran

Baltimore, MD

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I went out to maiden my new 6Hv tonight. YEAH, COMPASS! Go to spool up after checking and rechecking everything:

Western Robotics BEC Hercules 5.3 volts check
Servos check
Gyro Working in the right direction check
Pitch set 11-11 and 0 in the middle check
2 6S packs at 4.2v across cells check
Loctited everything check
Hobbywing ESC programmed check
Throttle Curves Set -4 at the bottom and 11 up top Check
Idle up 80 flat check

Plugged in Y Dean Harness and here we gooooooo.....

Very Soft start to spool up and it cuts at around 1/5 throttle. Try again same thing, and again. Reprogrammed ESC. On the phone with Amain....new Hobbywing 70A stock ESC on the way.

I have had so many issues with this China Bird. I am so fed up at this point and regret this purchase.

Why No Love For Compass Huh????

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04-15-2011 02:33 AM  6 years agoPost 19
TheBum

rrVeteran

McKinney, TX

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You've just had bad luck. It really is a sweet flying heli. I sold my Logo 500 because my 6HV was getting all the flight time.

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04-15-2011 03:57 AM  6 years agoPost 20
Rogman88

rrElite Veteran

West Monroe, LA

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YEAH, COMPASS!
Yep another satisfied customer...
WHAT A PIECE OF JUNK!
I just finished building my Logo 600 and was saying the same things. "It makes squealing noises when the head is loaded", "The German dude put the right canopy hole too far forward", WTH is the head in two pieces held together with 20 bolts that have to be loc-tited and same with the tail case", "Static electricity wires...WTH?", "How in the @#$# am I supposed to route these @#$# wires through this solid frame?"

Now that I'm getting it dialed in, my tune is slowly changing. This thing flies really well, I don't care now that it took longer to build the head, or route the wires, or that the canopy hole sucks (ok I'm still ticked about the canopy hole because it crumples the canopy in the back and puts strain on the grommet) or that it took way longer to assemble than it should have.

Now my point. Once you get it dialed in, your tune will hopefully change as well. Hang in there the end is in sight!

High Voltage just works better

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