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HelicopterScale Model RC Helicopters › TT MD530 nose coversion help??
02-20-2011 11:15 PM  6 years agoPost 1
liljalepeno

rrNovice

Dublin, Ireland

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Howdy,

I am installing my e-converted Raptor 50 in to an MD530 scale body and wondering if anyone has any suggestion on how to mount the nose to the body so there is access to chnage the battery?

The instal instructions say to use screws but that's just not practicale for an E-hile so I was thinking small magnets but can't figure out how to mount them without them being noticable.....

Totaly lost here and would be very greatful if anyone could point me in the right direction?

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02-20-2011 11:25 PM  6 years agoPost 2
SSMKN2

rrVeteran

Greensboro NC

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Is it a TT fuse or century...if there are no side windows I just slide mine in and out through there, otherwise you can make some pins and on the opposite side put some lite plywood with holes for the pins to align through. Then drill out the tips of the pins to accept hood pins that are used on rc cars/trucks.

Joel
MD 500D
Bell 206

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02-21-2011 12:11 AM  6 years agoPost 3
liljalepeno

rrNovice

Dublin, Ireland

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Yeah it's the TT one, I was thinking of no side windows so I could slide the batts in but would prefer to have better access anyway from the front if at all possible. Will look at ways to build a former with locating pins but it's an unusual front end.

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02-21-2011 12:46 AM  6 years agoPost 4
SSMKN2

rrVeteran

Greensboro NC

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Yeah if its the TT nose you cant do the locating pins...however on the one I did, I used velcro on one of the side windows in the front so you could take it in and out...i also attached a ball link with a screw and some super glue to use it as a little pull handle

Joel
MD 500D
Bell 206

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02-21-2011 04:09 AM  6 years agoPost 5
Mojave

rrElite Veteran

Palos Verdes, Ca.​USA

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On the TT fuse there aren't a lot of options. The windscreen is integral to the structure of the front of the fuse. I would probably do what SSMKN2 did and make the side window removeable. Another option would be to set the heli up to run A123 cells and just fast charge them in the fuse. Then you never have to worry about opening it up to remove the lipo for charging. Just my .002

All helis and planes have an expiration date stamped on them...you only find it after you crash!!

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02-22-2011 05:48 PM  6 years agoPost 6
HAV

rrNovice

Central Florida

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May not be applicable/possible with your set-up, but my solution was to cut out the engine cowling in the back and insert the batteries from the rear. I converted an R-50 frame with a conversion kit (pre-e550/620 kit release). This conversion does not have an X piece between the side frames. I made a tray where two 5 cell packs are velcroed end-to-end and then slid into the frame and secured with a single 4-40 bolt through the tray into the rear strut cross-piece. The front of the tray is held in place by blocks glued to the side-frames which captures the tray as it slides underneath the blocks. The cowling is simply held in place with screws into wood blocks. Magnets may work as well for this job but may not stiffen up the body as much as the screw do. I could not think of a convenient way to use the front windscreen to access the battery. HAV

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02-22-2011 06:57 PM  6 years agoPost 7
Krumrick2

rrApprentice

Sao jose dos Campos​Brasil

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Hi,

There is a nice way to do, but is not so easy ( not so difficult too), is make the doors openable.

I do this in all my helis since my first MD530 by TT.

Let me know if you have experience and tools for handwork, then I will help you with phtos and info.

best regards,
Manuel

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02-22-2011 10:35 PM  6 years agoPost 8
liljalepeno

rrNovice

Dublin, Ireland

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Thanks guys for the comments, I see I am not the only one to come across this issue!
After considering the options, inculding cutting a closeable hatch in the bottom of the fus to allow battery fitting from the bottom just like HAV, it seems that opening the doors up seems like the best option.
It keeps the nose screwed in place for rigidity but allows increased access for battery changing.
Manuel, would love to see detail pics of how you did it. I had a look in your gallery and I see a blue md530 wih working doors and it looks great.

Thanks again guys, don't know why opening the doors never came to mind as an option, DUH!

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02-23-2011 12:26 AM  6 years agoPost 9
ruddernate

rrKey Veteran

sulphur,Ok.

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I'd love to see those pics to. I've seen lots of opening doors on many helis but never seen a good how to. I've used trial and error myself and haven't done as well as I'd like. Love to see some technique.

fly it like you stole it

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02-23-2011 01:28 AM  6 years agoPost 10
Krumrick2

rrApprentice

Sao jose dos Campos​Brasil

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hi,
I will prepare a few photos and video to show maximun details as possible.

With patience you can open the doors without need to repaint the fuselage, just a few touchs with brush.

The items needed are:

epoxi resin ( two components)
fiver glass cloth
Dubro links for airmodels ( will pass info of this later)
Dremel tool with cutting discs ( part number 409 , this come in package with 36 units, I use this ones because are fine).
an old litle brusless motor to take the magnets, this is best option to manteain closed the doors, can make a handle door functional, but there is a few issues with that choice.

This work can take up to 12 hours, whort every minute, trust me !!!

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02-23-2011 01:34 AM  6 years agoPost 11
ruddernate

rrKey Veteran

sulphur,Ok.

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I've spent that much time on my current fuse doors and I'm still not happy. I'm ready to start all over. Sorry , didn't mean to hijack the thread.

fly it like you stole it

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