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HelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 30 › black residue that looks like oil on muffler and​landing gear
02-18-2011 06:22 PM  6 years agoPost 1
stingeragent

rrNovice

killen, tx us

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Just did a short flight on my raptor 30 and after I landed I noticed there was residue on the landing gear and also on the muffler. It looks exactly like oil. I also noticed after the flight that there is a little screw on front of muffler that was loose and it appears thats where it leaked from. Do I need to put some threadlock on that screw to keep it in? Thats not really my worry though, just wanna make sure the black stuff is normal. BTW, the engine is a TT39, and it only has maybe 4-5 flights on the engine.

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02-18-2011 06:37 PM  6 years agoPost 2
trekrider586

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Sylacauga,Al

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it is oil.nothing to worry about.those mufflers are known to be a PITA.It's a three piece design that you can tighten on all day and will still work loose.I would use a little jb weld on those ends after you tighten them down.I went so far as have a friend tack weld them.

it's better to ask for forgiveness than for permission

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02-18-2011 06:55 PM  6 years agoPost 3
stingeragent

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killen, tx us

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Ok good. Well thats a relief. I tightened down the screw and nut tight as I could get it. Guess I'll go pick up some jb weld to hold the thing together better.

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02-18-2011 10:20 PM  6 years agoPost 4
Rafael23cc

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Junction City, KS

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Hold on.... Before you JB-weld anything permanently, try this trick....

Fly the helicopter for several minutes until the muffler is nice and hot. Then carefully tighten the offending screw while the assembly is still hot. Repeat once or twice while letting the muffler cool off between flights. I guarantee you that it will not back off.

As far as the residue goes, if it is black and oily, then I would not worry too much. A grey residue is an indication of aluminum parts rubbing. That is a completely different story.

Rafael

Keep your feet on the ground, but your eyes on the sky.
Team Heliproz.com

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02-18-2011 11:10 PM  6 years agoPost 5
dsl11us

rrApprentice

drums pa usa

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didnt you know that your bird self oiling. lol i would worry about it if it was a electric heli lol

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02-19-2011 05:55 PM  6 years agoPost 6
stingeragent

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killen, tx us

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yea, oil on an electric can't be good.

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02-19-2011 07:30 PM  6 years agoPost 7
Swoop

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Newark, DE USA

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Put a split lock washer either under the screwhead or under the nut, they are seriously underrated and work very well.

Chris
X50, B320, Radix, Spartan
Titan,Kasama,MP5,Radix,JR770
Trex450SE,MavrikkG5,Phoenix35

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02-20-2011 12:40 AM  6 years agoPost 8
stingeragent

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killen, tx us

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I think it came from the factory with a lock washer under the nut. Anyways, I flew it again today, and the screw didn't come undone but the back half of the muffler decided to rotate towards the frame in flight and the exhaust heat melted about a quarter size of the frame. I've since applied some jb weld to where the 2 pieces connect together to prevent it from rotating or coming apart in flight. One day I'll get a new muffler when I upgrade it to a 50. Side note, not a good idea to fly when the sun starts to set. I could barely make out its orientation half the time unless I was doing forward flight. Trying to hover a little ways off almost resulted in meeting the ground.

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02-20-2011 12:47 AM  6 years agoPost 9
Swoop

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Newark, DE USA

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sun in front of you, very bad. sun behind is much better

http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=803160
not bad for $28

Chris
X50, B320, Radix, Spartan
Titan,Kasama,MP5,Radix,JR770
Trex450SE,MavrikkG5,Phoenix35

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02-22-2011 01:45 AM  6 years agoPost 10
stingeragent

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killen, tx us

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Sigh. This muffler just brings me no happiness. So i've had a few flights with no issues. On my 3rd flight of the day today like halfway through the tank my raptor suddenly became much louder than usual. So I knew something wasn't right and immediately set it down. Turns out, 1 of the 2 bolts that holds the muffler to the engine is gone and the muffler is hanging there by the other bolt which is like halfway out. Dissapointed to say the least. I took out the other screw and it did have threadlock on it. What could be the causes here? Just normal engine vibration or is this a sign that something could possibly be wrong. Regardless could someone tell me where to get the screw I need? Its a M3x32mm socket screw according to the manual, but the only ones I can find on google are phillips head screws.

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02-22-2011 02:29 AM  6 years agoPost 11
Swoop

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Newark, DE USA

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Threadlock doesn't work in this applicaton due to heat. Use a lock washer under the capscrew head if the pipe is threaded or under the nut if it is thru bolt. Get the engine hot, then retorque the bolts and it will stay on. Use new lock washers (it matters)

Chris
X50, B320, Radix, Spartan
Titan,Kasama,MP5,Radix,JR770
Trex450SE,MavrikkG5,Phoenix35

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02-22-2011 02:46 AM  6 years agoPost 12
stingeragent

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killen, tx us

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Ok, will do. Yea it had a lock washer under the screw head but guess it wasn't tight enough or something. Think I'm gonna get some bolts that are longer than the stock ones that way I can put a nut on the other end in addition to the lockwasher. Less than 10 flights and this muffler has already seperated in flight, rotated and burned the frame in flight, and now almost fell off completely in flight.

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02-22-2011 01:13 PM  6 years agoPost 13
gbcross

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Bridgeport, MI - USA

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I will try to clarify some things.
The black is due to oxidation of aluminum after it has rubbed/worn against itself. On an engine it can be from a lean break in, lean run, or from the muffler rubbing on itself or the engine. The black will not go away as long as there is rubbing/wearing. As one member mentioned when this wearing is really bad it even looks grey as there are larger chunks of aluminum in the black gunk.
Aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel when heated. Therefore to get the tightest seal do it when the muffler is COLD. What will happen next is as it heats up the muffler will tighten itself against the steel bolts by expanding. Same thing when removing aluminum with steel bolts/screws waith until they are COLD and the job will go easier.
Not using any gasket between the muffler and engine is a common practice to help keep things from moving. Multi pc mufflers usually leak after time just as you have experienced and can be delayed by using jb weld after a thorough cleaning of the parts with acetone.
Give the jb weld adequate time to cure fully.
Longer bolts (or threaded stock) with jam nuts and lockwashers can help as well.

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02-22-2011 02:29 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Rafael23cc

rrKey Veteran

Junction City, KS

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gbcross
Aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel when heated. Therefore to get the tightest seal do it when the muffler is COLD.
That sounds great in theory and paper, experience has taugh me the complete opposite.
Swoop
Get the engine hot, then retorque the bolts and it will stay on.
This sounds very familiar to a suggestion given before, but apparently ignored.

Rafael

Keep your feet on the ground, but your eyes on the sky.
Team Heliproz.com

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HelicopterThunder TigerRAPTOR 30 › black residue that looks like oil on muffler and​landing gear
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