RunRyder RC
 7  Topic Subscribe
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ] 5124 views
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
Helicopter
e-
Align
T-REX 700 › 700E Build thread
02-18-2011 08:47 AM  6 years agoPost 21
Taipan

rrElite Veteran

Sydney, Australia

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

That is normal for the one way bearing cage to be out of round. I have a rebuilt quite a few of them & they're all like that. All the cage does is to separate the sprags (teeth) equally more or less. You'll notice that all the sprags are exactly the same, that is far more important than the cage being perfectly round!!

Every one way I've had in a 700E eventually slips. Solved this by pulling the one way unit apart, dropping out the one way & using a blowtorch to heat up the case until the one way collar falls out. Replace the radial bearing in the case as it will get damaged by the heat. Scrape old loctite off collar with a sharp knife. Cover outside of collar with a liberal amount of green bearing retaining compound loctite. It should slide back in the case by hand & wipe off excess green loctite and bolt the whole thing together before the loctite sets. Don't forget to insert the one way sleeve while bolting up as to centre everything.

Below is a pic of the one way collar covered in green loctite before reinserting;

http://www.rotarypower3.com/taipan/...n%20loctite.JPG

After reinserting;

http://www.rotarypower3.com/taipan/...octite%20in.JPG

Btw I've found a one way sleeve to be slightly out of round. Found this out when setting the main gear mesh on my old 700E conversion. Simply by turning the head 90 degs at a time & checking the mesh it would vary! Now with every heli I have, no matter what brand I turn the head 90 degs at a time & check the mesh all the way around the main gear.

The other thing is the pinion may not be 100% centered as the grub screws pull it to one side but we're talking very tiny amounts that are not to be worried about. The only ways for truly centered pinions are to perhaps thread them on instead like how nitro pinions thread onto clutch bells or using a perfectly square machined cone shaped collar that is self aligning like the one used to centre the fan on a Hirobo WC Eagle.

I have exactly the same problems with my tail links & solved this like you did by sanding the moulding flash off them so that the brass inserts are longer.

No need to loctite the vertical tail drive shaft bearings inside the boom clamp box but do green loctite these bearings to the shaft itself.

Also check that your rear tail bellcrank moves freely. I find most of them stiff & the collar inside the bearings to be too short. Fixed this by removing a little bit of plastic by hand turning a 7mm drill bit in the bottom of the bellcrank so that the bearings sit closer & no longer bind. This is for the plastic bellcrank though. I assume the Super Combo to have a metal bellcrank? I'm not mad about the metal bellcrank as with the tail pitch slider ball in it, it can wear out quicker than the plastic one. You'll usually find that metal on metal can wear out quicker than plastic on metal i.e servo gears. That is why any metal on metal drive gears are rare. If they are both metal such as inside a tail gear box, they will need lots of lubing! But are obviously a lot stronger.

A few people have complained about the blade grip bolt snapping off when using the metal tail grips. I have done over 70 flights on one metal tail, no probs. IMO Align tighten on the grip bolts with way too much force & loctite compromising them. I replace them with brand new high tensile bolts 12.9 grade & just enough loctite and force to hold them on. Works fine.

Nice tip on the toothpicks & straws. This is my solution, to draw a line exactly in the middle of a 45 deg set square using a 90 deg engineering square & placing on the servo balls. Line up the bellcrank for easy subtrimming! Note the balls have been moved in for Vbar setup.

http://www.rotarypower3.com/taipan/...et%20square.JPG

As for elevator, I place a ruler on the balls & eyeball the ruler parallel to the main shaft;

http://www.rotarypower3.com/taipan/721E%20ruler.JPG

Use red high strength loctite (#262 here in Aust) on the grub screw holding the tail rotor on. I've caught it coming loose a few times during pre-flight checks using blue (#243) medium loctite. IMO Align should have used 2 grub screws opposite each other rather than just one. Other brands that use 2 grub screws hold on a lot tighter & no need for red loctite!

I've been flying 700E conversions since October 2008 & only just got my first proper 700E a few months ago as well. I can think of heaps more tips for them. I'm just as meticulous as you!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-18-2011 02:46 PM  6 years agoPost 22
MikeM

rrApprentice

Austin, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

That is normal for the one way bearing cage to be out of round.
I was beginning to think that. Glad to find someone else who has found this!

After reading this thread it made me think that the out of round is intentional.
Every one way I've had in a 700E eventually slips. Solved this by pulling the one way unit apart, dropping out the one way & using a blowtorch
I used a heat gun with no apparent damage to my bearings.
Btw I've found a one way sleeve to be slightly out of round. Found this out when setting the main gear mesh on my old 700E conversion. Simply by turning the head 90 degs at a time & checking the mesh it would vary!
That's interesting. I would have thought that the two bearings, above and below the sprag should keep everything centered. Hmmph.

I like your use of the engineer square on the servos. Quite a coincidence that your square is exactly the right length to fit there!

Thanks for posting all that info and the answer I needed here to my head setup problem. Very helpful!

Thanks
Mike

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-18-2011 11:34 PM  6 years agoPost 23
MikeM

rrApprentice

Austin, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

2 toothpicks and a straw...

Watch at YouTube

Used my laser level for checking the head setup. Just a Black & Decker carpenter laser level you shine on the wall etc. That's a screwdriver hanging in the blade grip.

Update: I think using the laser pays off, my head tracking was perfect w/out any further adjustment.

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-18-2011 11:42 PM  6 years agoPost 24
The Old Guy

rrVeteran

UK Surrey

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Within a month Align will produce a tool like that

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-19-2011 02:07 AM  6 years agoPost 25
MikeM

rrApprentice

Austin, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Noisy servos. I just have the align ds610 servos that came with the kit. I see plenty of posts saying digitals are noisy. Seems to be primarily the 2 servos with the bellcranks. When I remove the links they are almost silent. So that makes me think they're binding. But I've adjusted and sized the links over and over now and that helped but they're still noisy as heck.

Are these aligns particularly noisy? Is it possible to quiet them down or do we just live with it? Do they break in after a while and get quieter?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-19-2011 05:47 AM  6 years agoPost 26
integy2

rrVeteran

California USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

My 700E DS610 noisy too.
Just live with it, it works.

(Good flight end up with ...... big smile :D)

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-19-2011 08:25 AM  6 years agoPost 27
chicagoslick

rrApprentice

Indiana, USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

My servos that came with my F3C are noisy too. 610's and 650...My friends 3G servos noisy as well. Not sure how long I will be comfortable with that. I may buy Futaba servos and see if I get the same thing...Your doing a good build, by the way. More people need to understand that in this hobby it is very important to sweat the small things and pay close attention to detail.

Chicagoslick

PM  EMAIL  Attn:RR  Quote
02-20-2011 02:44 AM  6 years agoPost 28
MikeM

rrApprentice

Austin, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Main assembly complete

Finished the head setup yesterday, got the tail done today.

I saved the tail for last since it's just a lot easier to handle the frame w/out a 4' tail on it! Consequently I've been getting anxious to see it all come together. So I had to go ahead and strap on the blades and canopy for a snapshot.

On the tail bearings I opened up the assemblies and used green loctite on metal, and adhesive cement in the plastic tail case.

The Finless video suggests using red loctite on the tail grub screw that holds the tail hub onto the tail shaft. Did that. That's the only place I used red.

Torque tube went together without a problem. I applied silicon inside the tube and it slid right in.

My canopy and fins from AceHelis didn't get here yet so I had to go ahead and mount the stock skin.

My tail control rod is as straight as an arrow at center.

Can't work on it tomorrow. Hopefully early next week I'll get the elecs strapped on and spin her up!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-23-2011 09:41 PM  6 years agoPost 29
Richardmid1

rrProfessor

Leeds, England

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

You'll find the 610's will get quieter as they and your links kind of 'run in'! You cant tell my 600 is switched on now till you pick the heli up by the blade grips which obviously puts some slight strain on the servos.

I find the easiest way to check for binding in the head is listening to the servos so I dont mind it.

60% of the time, it works every time!

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-24-2011 11:35 PM  6 years agoPost 30
helismash

rrKey Veteran

Gloversville, NY -​Fulton

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Looks great! Congrats on the new heli.

Hey, Who put the ground there!
T-Rex 500/T-Rex 600N FBL/T-Rex 600E PRO/T-Rex 700N/T-Rex 700FBL

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
02-25-2011 04:27 PM  6 years agoPost 31
HarveyR

rrVeteran

France - North

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Looks nice indeed, I hope it flies up to your building efforts ! When's the flight planned ?

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
03-06-2011 11:51 PM  6 years agoPost 32
MikeM

rrApprentice

Austin, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Maiden flight, finally!

Got distracted for a couple weeks and finally put a little more time into getting it in the air. Just hovered it twice for 3 mins each in the driveway. So far so good. Tracking looks pretty damn good as I was hoping.

I went back and forth on my esc placement. I know you don't want it too close to the gyro or even receiver. But I have seen several pics of guys having it up front with both gyro and receiver. So I'm starting out with it up front. As I get the gyro gain dialed in I'll see how it goes.

Here's my canopy from Ace Helis and the adapter/spark arrestor I made up. I still have to tidy up my wiring etc.

I still have a few minor things to nail down but I'm in the air!

I'm glad I did this build thread it was a big help, learned a lot and I hope I gave a little bit back. Interestingly I received at least as many PMs about this build as the number of posts to the thread.

Thanks for all the help.

Mike

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
03-15-2011 06:10 AM  6 years agoPost 33
MikeM

rrApprentice

Austin, Texas - USA

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

elec placement and wiring

I've taken it out twice now. Wow. Coming from a 450 all I can say is wow. This is what I've been waiting for. This is fun. Amazingly stable and easy. AND BIG. No problem seeing this baby. Lovin it.

It takes me a few tries to become satisfied with my placement and wiring. Maybe I have it now. I've gone back and forth with and without a spark arrestor. Even with the EC5s I don't like the spark.The spark arrestor works like a champ so I'll end up using it.

I originally had the jive on the back but I like it up front. This location makes for the shortest wire requirement plus better access to the esc/motor bullets (as opposed to under the swash which is too damn hard to get at).

Spent some time today getting the servo wiring strapped down half decent. I've got some of the mesh wire sleeve protector from HK and I've been experimenting with it. Problem is as soon as you cut it it wants to frey all apart. I see how people use some heat shrink on the ends. I'll have to keep working with it.

I've about got my battery situation figured out. I can now load from the back so I can leave the canopy on. And I think I'm gonna replace the straps with a pin or long screw through the battery rails on each end. Anyone do that?

Now all I have to do is learn to fly

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
03-15-2011 12:12 PM  6 years agoPost 34
The Old Guy

rrVeteran

UK Surrey

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I found the straps a fiddle so did a screw mod using Cabin screws

PS Self amalgamating tape is great to close ends of sheething to stop fraying and not slipping like heat shrink

PM  EMAIL  HOMEPAGE  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
03-15-2011 09:12 PM  6 years agoPost 35
5high

rrNovice

NW Montana

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I started my own 700FBL build last night and just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread. Some great info and sharing. Keep it up and congrats Mike on your new bird!

PM  EMAIL  GALLERY  Attn:RR  Quote
WATCH
 2 pages [ <<    <     1     ( 2 )    >    >> ] 5124 views
Scorpion Power Scorpion Power
Helicopter
e-
Align
T-REX 700 › 700E Build thread
 Print TOPIC  Make Suggestion 

 7  Topic Subscribe

Saturday, November 18 - 4:47 am - Copyright © 2000-2017 RunRyder   EMAILEnable Cookies

Login Here
 New Subscriptions 
 Buddies Online