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T-REX 700 › 3G or FC3 ?
01-12-2011 02:18 AM  7 years agoPost 1
dschmid4

rrNovice

Midland, MI

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I'm ready to bite the bullet and order my 700E. Having a difficult time determining between the 3G or the FC3 super combo packages.
I am not big into 3D, but I want the flybarless look for future scale fuselage. Extremely important to me is flight stability (hovering, tail stability, smooth flight). I won't be competing, so would I notice a huge advantage in flight stability with the F3C package?

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01-12-2011 05:56 PM  7 years agoPost 2
jawelsh

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San Antonio, TX

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Get the 3G!

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01-12-2011 06:58 PM  7 years agoPost 3
TrevJonez

rrKey Veteran

St.George, Utah - USA

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the biggest difference with the F3C is it enables you to adjust the mixing ratios to increase stability in a hover at the cost of roll rate.

just as well go with the 3G if your planning on using a 2 blade head on your scale project.

Who cares... its just money...

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01-13-2011 12:14 AM  7 years agoPost 4
JOLT

rrVeteran

Baltimore, MD

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Honestly--I don't have either one so I won't pretend that I know. But, based on your post and what you want, it sounds like the 3G is more what you are looking for.

Do you have any experience with FBL systems?

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01-13-2011 04:01 AM  7 years agoPost 5
dschmid4

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Midland, MI

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No experience with FBL systems. That is what whats making me a bit nervous. The 3G seems to be a 3D machine, but Align is a bit cryptic in their product descriptions. I won't be doing 3D, but I'm really wondering HOW MUCH smoother and HOW MUCH more stable the F3C system is. If it is only subtle, I agree the 3G system is the way to go.

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01-13-2011 04:50 AM  7 years agoPost 6
TrevJonez

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St.George, Utah - USA

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realistically i would bet you can get the FBL to actually hover better than F3C if setup just right using the proper blades.

personally i have had it up to my hairline with the 3G system because it seems no matter how hard i try i can't get them all setup right and flying how i want them to. I am going to get either a beastX vbar or gy750 to replace them all. but i am flying 3D type stuff and its the bobble on hard inputs and stops that is killing me. plus the tails are never very consistent.

anyway having said that i love my 700E and its one of the first style kits. i think my biggest issue right now is that i just switched from a DSX9 (JR Asia 9303_2.4) to a DX8 and the 11ms is a huge difference so on top of getting used to that i am noticing odd anomalies with the 3g units more than ever now that i am more connected to the heli.

Who cares... its just money...

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01-13-2011 05:34 AM  7 years agoPost 7
ch-47c

rrElite Veteran

san jose, ca

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Get the 3G. I just flew my 1st FBL on my Trex600N. I was skeptical all along until the first flight. I really like it. So much so, I ordered the parts to make my Rave ENV FBL.

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01-13-2011 01:05 PM  7 years agoPost 8
JOLT

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Baltimore, MD

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I can definitly relate to you. I have 4 helis (from a Trex 250 up to 550) and all are flybarred. I am apprehensive to make the jump and to be honest, the flybar doesn't bother me nor do I feel the need to change right now.

But if I were to step up, I think I would experiment with a Vbar on my Trex 450 Sport before strapping one on to a larger heli-hoping I haven't made a mistake in set up.

I guess, I would stay with my comfort zone in the FC3 unless of course you know someone that is very familiar with the systems to walk you through.

Nothing wrong with a flybar...

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01-13-2011 02:44 PM  7 years agoPost 9
The Old Guy

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UK Surrey

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You want you heli stable then just set the 3G cyclic pitch to around 8 to 10 degres instead of the 3D setting of 13 to 14 Degrees

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01-13-2011 05:07 PM  7 years agoPost 10
Evan D

rrApprentice

Charlotte, NC

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The canopy is nice on the F3C.... Other than that I see no reason to get it over the 3G.

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01-13-2011 06:53 PM  7 years agoPost 11
jsenicka

rrProfessor

Eagle River, WI

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Old Guy.
You said
You want you heli stable then just set the 3G cyclic pitch to around 8 to 10 degrees instead of the 3D setting of 13 to 14 Degrees
I disagree there. The 3G needs a specific pitch range to enable stabilization. You would still want to set at least the minimum recommended cyclic pitch in DIR more (think it is 12 degrees). Once you complete setup, you could then roll back cyclic swash settings in the transmitter 25 or 30% to reduce commanded flip and roll rates while still allowing the 3G full range of motion to work. You can also increase hiller and decrease bell a bit in the setup.

To state another way, cyclic range in DIR mode does two things. First is it hard limits 3G swash movement that can be used to avoid binding. This max pitch also somewhat effects max flip and roll rates (that is why they say something like +/-12, with +/-14 for 3d fliers. The second function is this also sets what the 3G can use to perform stabilization. If heli suddenly flips or rolls due to wind, the DIR settings say how far the swash can move to counter that uncommanded movement.

If you lower your swash percentages after DIR setup is complete, this will reduce commanded rate of roll or flip without reducing the 3G ability to correct.

Jim Senicka
Team Manager, GrandRC Flight Team

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01-22-2011 01:01 PM  7 years agoPost 12
Wimbledon99

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UK

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..

3D?? No - just another input error!!!

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01-23-2011 01:51 AM  7 years agoPost 13
iHover

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Berne , NY

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I have a 12 S 600 using a 3G and a 700E. I am VERY happy with both. I never had to do more than set the gain dials to 45% or so and fly.
I also put it on my 700 size A109 but havent maiden it yet.

You had me at Hover

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02-01-2011 07:29 AM  6 years agoPost 14
Wingspinner99

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Dallas, tx

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HOWEVER, stay away from the 3G unit
Did the poster ever fly a 3G? Doesn't sound like it.

The 2.1 version of the 3G works great and I have analyst data that says Align has sold more 3G's than all other vendors combined.

Personal, I've got two of them - one on a 550e and the other on a 250se. I also have a 550e with a Beastx. Its high quality, works fine but lacks flexibility. It's designed as an easy to setup, lower-end unit with limited tuning options. It's not well suited for scale or other specialized stuff because of that.

On the other hand, the 3G can be really tweaked from docile to very aggressive. As far as setup, I actually think its quicker to setup a 3G - there are only 5 or 6 steps whereas there are 10+ for the BeastX. The important thing about the BeastX setup though is it FORCES you to get your mechanics and everything setup right. That's the 3G's biggest downfall, you can go through the setup even if your mechanics, radio, etc aren't right. Given the range of experience and skills that's a big advantage for Beastx for the broad market and I think that's one reason for the BeastX's fan following - they did their homework and have made it very easy for anyone to successfully getting it working acceptably well.

I haven't tried a 3G for scale but because it can be considerably tuned it should be able to work ok. For me though, if I was doing scale stuff I'd get the SK 720 or one of the others that isn't primarily a 3D unit. It's easy to setup and has auto setup routines for scale, sport, 3D, etc. If you desire (not required) you can adjust things like Hiller delay, Bell gain, etc. etc. The even bigger feature is the auto-leveling capability which can be anything from none to completely self-leveling (i.e. you center the sticks and the ship goes into a hover regardless of it's attitude). It can do this because not only does it have 3 gyros but it's also got 3 axis accelerometers which facilitates the self-leveling among other things. You can make a 720 based ship super aggressive or almost auto-hover AND you can control all that independently from your transmitter if you are using Futaba or Spectrum.

There are one or two other units with accelerometers but the 720 is lower priced and more widely used. 720 also has a logging function for position, RPM, some other things and Skookum says it will soon have a GPS connection. Hard core 3Ders don't care about most of these things so a VBar or one of the 3D targeted units are better for them.

Anyway, the fanboy syndrome on FBL units is rampant and the opinions are broad. In my opinion, all the major brandname units pretty much work well and they ALL have had problems and their own strengths and weakness. It's really a matter of studying the features of each one and deciding which one fits best what you want to do.

I chose to buy a few and try them myself since it's nearly impossible to separate the enthusiasm from the facts and I'm a gadget guy so it's fun to learn about them. So far I've used 3G, SK 720, BeastX, VBar.

My take:

VBar - Competitive 3D

SK 720 - Best all around for a broad range of flying styles, best obsolescence insurance (very powerful processor facilitates upgrades)

BeastX - Best plug and go for hobbyist 3Ders

3G - Lowest cost (if you get it with the kit) competitive 3D performance (heck all the Align team uses them) and flexibility for other flying styles

One I'd like to try out is the Helicommand models but they are quite expensive. I'm also eager to see how the new Futaba unit will standup. Supposed to be out anytime now.

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02-01-2011 07:46 AM  6 years agoPost 15
Wimbledon99

rrVeteran

UK

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..

3D?? No - just another input error!!!

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02-01-2011 01:11 PM  6 years agoPost 16
Evan D

rrApprentice

Charlotte, NC

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More Align helo's have the 3G in it than any other FBL system. No I didn't do a poll and it's purely my own opinion but I'm positive it's true. That does not make other systems bad or better than the 3G, just simple numbers....

I agree 100% with Wingspinner99...

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02-01-2011 08:04 PM  6 years agoPost 17
litespeed600

rrKey Veteran

St. Charles, Missouri

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My 3G on my 700e works just awesome. I have a Logo 500 V-bar V4 to compare it to. It's definitely different than the V-bar but obviously a different helicopter too.

I think for so many and I quote
it's nearly impossible to separate the enthusiasm from the facts
and they get rid of the 3G because of some high posting internet x-purt. 3G is not for everyone just like some don't like Ford or Chevy.

I actually lost some respect for myself replying to this thread but figure if it save some poor soul a few bux by not jumping on the "Buy brand X because it's better" wagon then so be it. The liberal "I don't like it and don't want anyone to use it" mentality is the downfall of the modern world. To present an bunch objectionable facts is one way to plead your case but a bunch of brand loyal cheerleaders (not saying anyone here is or pointing a finger but you know who you are!) is just dumb.

I say try them all or what ever you can afford. Have bad luck then post it for all to make their own educated decisions with. Same with the good luck.

For me Rondo V1 was really tuff, V2 worked well, V-bar V4 with Logo 500 works perfect for all flying and 3G is set-up for hard 3D and works phenomenal to say the least. 3G link is a must have to get the heli set up perfect as I have. Could something work better on my 700e? Maybe but if it's not broken.......

+1 to Wingspinner99 also
Tom

Married with 2 kids, I am no stranger to pain!

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02-05-2011 01:02 AM  6 years agoPost 18
dschmid4

rrNovice

Midland, MI

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Thanks all for you replies. Despite my research, it was very difficult to find anyone who had experience with both the 3G and F3C units to give this a fair comparison/assessment.

Someday I hope to fly someones FC3 to see if it is much more stable than the 3G. I never questioned if the 3G was a good heli, and in fact this is what I ended up purchasing.

Thanks again.

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T-REX 700 › 3G or FC3 ?
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