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HelicopterCentury Radikal G20-30 N640 Hawk Predator Docs  >>>Radikal G30 FYI<<<
12-31-2010 03:06 AM  6 years agoPost 1
Century Heli

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CA. USA

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12-31-2010 03:31 AM  6 years agoPost 2
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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I am going to try and get the rest of these videos done this weekend. Being the Holidays, free time has been limited. But I will do my best. I wanted to at the very least get the frame and engine installs videos done, as they are unique to the Radikal 30, for those who may have gotten a Radikal 30 for Christmas or taken advantage of all the various sales during the holiday season. The head and tail sections are the same as the Radikal 20. So till I get the 30s videos done, you can refer to the Radikal 20 build videos for the head and tail sections.

Also, if you have any questions regarding the Radikal 30, please feel free to ask. All of the Century Field Rep team will do their best to get you the answers you need.

I hope everyone had a good Christmas and has a Happy New Year.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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12-31-2010 04:40 AM  6 years agoPost 3
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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Common Build Mistakes and General Issues

This will be a running list of Common Build Mistakes people make while building their Radikal 30s and some other just "General" issues that might creep up here and there.

-- Installing the bottom bearing block incorrectly. The bearing is flush with the surface of the bearing block on one side. This is the side that goes up. (Manual Page 21)

-- Forgetting to install the grub screw into the tail output shaft that holds the tail pulley drive pin in place. (Manual Page 35, Part Number 23)

-- Improper Drive Train alignment. It is crucial that you spend time making sure that the drive train is aligned as best as you can get it. If it is out just the slightest bit, it can cause a number of problems. Vibrations, Clutch engaging too early, Start Shaft One-Way bearing failure. The best way to tell if you have a good Drive Train alignment is by spinning the Start Shaft in the one-way bearing. It should spin freely with out any binding, grittiness or the like. Your clutch bell should spin freely about the clutch shoe as well. Also look to see if the clutch shoe is sitting inside the clutch bell evenly. Nine times out of ten though, if your Start Shaft is spinning nice and smooth, you are good to go.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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12-31-2010 04:41 AM  6 years agoPost 4
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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Tips and Tricks

I will post all the "Tips and Tricks" here.

-- Tip number one. Do not install the engine till you completely build the frame section. It is much easier to get the engine in and out this way. Watch the build video "Frame and Engine Pt 3" to see how to get the engine in and out without having to split the front and rear frame section.

-- Main shaft thrust bearing. I personally do not install this bearing. But, if you are going to install it, I would install it with the race that has the larger ID towards the top of the shaft. Personally, I am really on the fence on this particular part.

-- Gear Ratio and Tail Ratio. Choose a Gear Ratio that is a the best match for your desired Head Speed. The Radikal 30 comes stock with a 6.4:1 Gear Ratio. You can also get a 6.9:1 gear ratio buy purchasing the 13T pinion. All of the engines I have flown in the Radikal 30 seem to hit a sweet spot around 12,800 RPM. Based on that, if your Max Head Speed is going to be 1850 RPM or lower, then use the 6.9:1 gear ratio. At 1850 RPM and higher, use the 6.4:1 Gear Ratio.

The kit contains two tail pulleys. The plastic is a 9T (5:1 ratio) pulley and the metal is a 10T (4.5:1 ratio). If you are going to be running 1800 RPM and lower head speeds, you might want to consider using the 9T plastic pulley to get the Tail RPM a little higher to provide you will better tail authority at lower Head Speeds. At 1800 RPM and higher, you should consider using the 10T metal pulley to keep the tail RPM lower at the higher Head Speeds.

** If you are running a modified engine, consult your engine modifier before choosing your Gear Ratio for their recommendations. Otherwise, assume all liability for your chosen gear ratio.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
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06-28-2011 03:18 AM  6 years agoPost 5
Helimech

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Galveston, Texas

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....Hello???

Anyone here? I sure hope this thread continues. Would love to see good info. here like in Bill's thread.

AR-15........the REAL homeland defense league!

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07-22-2011 04:48 PM  6 years agoPost 6
oldfart

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Vancouver, Canada

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You will find continued info on any of the Century heli in the common area of this Century forum.

Phil

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07-29-2011 12:25 AM  6 years agoPost 7
Rumore

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city ad

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does it exist an aluminium two way cooler fan for the G30 ?

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07-29-2011 01:53 AM  6 years agoPost 8
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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The G30 only has available the plastic fan with the aluminum center hub.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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07-29-2011 01:56 AM  6 years agoPost 9
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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Anyone here? I sure hope this thread continues. Would love to see good info. here like in Bill's thread.
If you have questions or comments, feel free to post. The above videos cover what is different between building the G20 and G30s. There are build videos for the head and the tail sections already done when I did the G20 build videos. I did not see a need to redo them. So when I did these videos, I focused on the frame as that is where all the differences are.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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07-29-2011 04:26 AM  6 years agoPost 10
Fledgling

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San Jose, CA - USA

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Torque Tube Conversion

Sparx,

I have not gone through all of these vid's yet.

But, do you have anything about the torque tube conversion - especially if installing during a brand new build (not retro fitting)?

Is instruction really necessary to begin with (for the TT)?

Thanks,

'

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07-29-2011 09:29 PM  6 years agoPost 11
James Kovach

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canton, oh - US

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I do not have the TT on any of my helis. Will have to pass this one over to Zman. Maybe he can shoot a video for you.

*disclaimer: These are my opinions. Agree or disagree, Your Call :)
Let'r Rip Tator Chip

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09-02-2011 07:05 PM  6 years agoPost 12
Disciple4123

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USA

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Hey, I had good service out of the machine with the 6:4 ratio. Just installed the 6:9 on it, and it has TR wobbles, vibes, all the signs of an alignment issue, My question is this: I can get the start shaft to spin freely, but then the bottom of the clutch area is non-level. If I wish to have the bottom of the clutch concentric with the bell, then the start shaft has a little resistance. I have found a compromise position between the two. Any logic to this? After 10 minutes of flight with the new ratio it has smoothed out a bit, but still is a concern. It is a commercial AP machine, so I have to get the logic and application right.

Edit: I leaned it out a little, and more flight time brought the vibes under control. The bold portion above though is still something I am trying to understand...

Thanks,
Eric

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09-06-2011 05:25 PM  6 years agoPost 13
ChrisK7

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Stanfield, Ore. 97875

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I've read a lot of posts on guys trying to sort out vibes on these gassers. Here is what seems to work for me.

I static balance everything I can, main blades, tail blades, paddles, fan, head, etc.

If I still have vibration issues that I think may be the tuning, I remove the main and tail blades and spool up the heli on the ground. I've found that even when I think I have it tuned good if I hold the tail boom so I can feel the vibration and turn the mixture screws a little at a time while it is running I can smooth it out considerably more and its quicker than flying, tuning, flying etc.
I know, I know, guy's will scold me for tuning that way and tell me how dangerous it is but I'm just saying, it works. Obviously you DON'T WANT TO HAVE BLADES ON THE HELI if you do this.

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09-06-2011 09:49 PM  6 years agoPost 14
Disciple4123

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USA

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I have mine sorted. The theoretical question as to clutch concentricity vs start shaft friction remains. Nonetheless, I would not advocate a spooled up no rotorblade condition might not reveal much? Lack of load during a high RPM status always yields increased vibes and different mixture settings than when lifting a load, eh?

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09-06-2011 11:21 PM  6 years agoPost 15
Machinehead01

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Lower Michigan

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Although I don't like...

The safety issues of it, a bladeless machine would reveal more about engine tuning as the dampening effect of the blade mass wouldn't be there. Also realise that this wouldn't help with anything other than an engine issue.

My 2 cents

Tom

"You judge according to the flesh; I am not judging anyone."

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09-08-2011 01:05 PM  6 years agoPost 16
ChrisK7

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Stanfield, Ore. 97875

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"Although I don't like...

The safety issues of it, a bladeless machine would reveal more about engine tuning as the dampening effect of the blade mass wouldn't be there. Also realise that this wouldn't help with anything other than an engine issue.

My 2 cents"

I agree with you guy's. I just found it easier to sort the engine tuning the way I did it. I still had some vibrations after I know I had all the blades, paddles, shafts, etc. all balanced. After I did the bladeless spool up and richened the needles a bit to smooth the heli out it made the whole heli a lot smoother.

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09-18-2011 11:02 PM  6 years agoPost 17
Brian18

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Banff, Aberdeenshire, UK.

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-- Forgetting to install the grub screw into the tail output shaft that holds the tail pulley drive pin in place. (Manual Page 35, Part Number 23)
- James -
"Let'r Rip, Tator Chip"
Many thanks to Sparx if I hadn't seen that post I wouldn't have known to ask the question.
Q; Where does it go?
James - A; Inside the shaft.

Thanks! You've 100% saved me the cost of a wipeout there.

Oh! and Great videos by the way I followed them as closely as I could. I put the Fuel tank rubber strips in wrong but otherwise ok.

Brian

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10-07-2011 01:28 AM  5 years agoPost 18
heliocolorado

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brighton colorado

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updated one way bearing with TT conversion.

I am having problems getting the tail rotor drive spocket aligned correctly with the tail drive gear, about half enegagment. I have the heavy duty one way bearing and TT upgrade. Anybody try this combination yet? The one way bearing it thicker the the original equipment. The helio worked well before. Maybe I should send all this stuff back to Century and leave it be.

Looks loke the bottom of the new bearing case is intended to replace the lower thrust washer. The vertical alignment is much better.

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10-07-2011 08:46 PM  5 years agoPost 19
Century Heli

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CA. USA

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heliocolorado: What do you mean by having the heavy duty one way? Are you talking about the Sprag upgrade for the G20?

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10-08-2011 02:08 AM  5 years agoPost 20
heliocolorado

rrNovice

brighton colorado

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yes

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