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09-06-2003 06:30 PM  14 years agoPost 1
Dale W

rrNovice

Hodges, SC

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I think I'm at the point of hooking up my V3 after doing all the preliminary checkouts and a couple circuits without it, just to see the difference. I have had start up problems, almost always after the motor has warmed up. I talked to Joe about this and it may be as simple as too coarse of a throttle movement using the stick. Joe, I found my throttle trim (right where it's supposed to be) so I will try that to see if there is a difference. I have the 24-4 Motor with the standard 23t pinion (I think), running the stock Joker 700mm mains, stock tails and SAB 20g CF paddles.

So, back to my next objective of hooking in the V3. My trim pots on the board are labled 'N', 'I' & 'P' (Pots @ bottom; left to right). I assume these relate to the "N', 'G, & 'I' pots described in the instructions and on previous threads here, but the order seems different. Anyway, I have set them at N=6, I=2, P=4. I see in the instructions that it is suggested to decouple the throttle from collective. Although I can do that on my EVO with no problem, what is the general setup you guys with the controllers enabled are using?

My biggest problem in hooking this baby up is that I'm not quite sure what to expect from the heli/throttle.Soft start and then right to speed until you bring throttle back (is this why they suggest a slider on the decoupled throttle?).

I will say I'm enormously happy with the Joker. Very nice, smooth and the sound is terriffic. In fact, I had to call Joe about the sound the tail blades were making.... Never heard that before in all my heli flying!

Dale

dale.wilkins@gmail.com

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09-08-2003 09:08 PM  14 years agoPost 2
Dale W

rrNovice

Hodges, SC

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Al,
No, I don't use a UBEC. I have a separate 1800 4-cell NIMH that handles the receiver/servos. I have it down pretty well pat on starting it without the controller hooked up and while it is cool. The whole thing needs to cool down after a flight before I can fly again. It just will not spin up. It makes that 'overamped whine' and shuts down if hot. In fact if it does that the first time (while cool and too much throttle), I have to wait. Since I haven't done that in a while, I don't know the temp of the motor/esc/capacitor when that happens from a cold start.

dale.wilkins@gmail.com

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09-08-2003 09:53 PM  14 years agoPost 3
Dale W

rrNovice

Hodges, SC

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Al,
I'll try that... on both the battery lead and the ESC to receiver, eh? Yes, my battery is up front, under the ESC. I assume I can use any 'ole ferrite ring (we have a place called Skycraft that has tons of this stuff), but how many turns? My motor leads have one turn through them and I've seen others (servo lead, I think) with so many I couldn't count!
Thanks,

dale.wilkins@gmail.com

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09-09-2003 01:31 PM  14 years agoPost 4
dmcgirt

rrApprentice

Atlanta, GA

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Hey Dale - what RPM are you shooting for? I have not bothered to setup my governor on my Maxi yet, just have not tinkered with it yet..

Thanks

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09-09-2003 02:15 PM  14 years agoPost 5
Dale W

rrNovice

Hodges, SC

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David,
Well hello! Between you putting that Maxi together at Sanford, the armada of support stuff required for a glow heli, and the sweet sound of the electric stuff, I just HAD to change over to a Joker! I'm also looking for a Logo 10 to putts around with in the neighborhood parks. I still have my Agusta (gas) and just changed over to a Royal Evo radio system (very sweet also) so I could do 4-point CCPM plus e-swashplate timing. The 10X fell way short on that and I don't miss it one bit. I will say that the ability to assign any control function to any switch and any servo receiver slot to any servo function is a hoot. It has taken two weeks just to get my brain working along the logics of how that's done.
Anyway, what rotor RPM? I think 1500-1550. I understand the Joker can do most anything with that RPM. It just makes me wonder though if running the ESC at lower than 85% (my guess) will give me problems like I have been picking up on the BBs. The setup I have is the 24-4 Motor & 23t pinion. supposedly that gives 1750 (at 100%, I guess). I have not hooked up the governor yet, as I still don't know what I should set the pots at or what to expect (see the start of this thread).
I don't know about your maxi, but I get about a +10 to -10 collective range, with cyclic binding at the extremes. The head works very quickly though and provides a hell of a lot of control around +/-6 degrees, so I've toned the range to +/-9 and the cyclic to ~+/-6 and things seem to smooth out there while still giving a good scoot when commanded. I haven't tried any aerobatics or 3D yet, just general circuits and hovering. Sure is smooth......

dale.wilkins@gmail.com

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09-13-2003 07:18 PM  14 years agoPost 6
Dale W

rrNovice

Hodges, SC

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Well, I tried using the Control Panel V3 last night. Had the settings at N=6, I=4 & P=2. I used my normal start proceedure of plugging the battery in at off throttle in normal mode, flipping my mode switch to Idle 2 (100%) and flipping it back. The control panel LED blinked in the same fashion the ESC LED had done before (except it was two quick blips for what was every one blip on the ESC). I moved the throttle stick to ~50% and the controller soft started the motor. However, the rotor RPMs would never get high enough to even mush into the air (made a helluva air noise in trying to though!). Since I was in normal mode (75% straighlined from mid stick up), was the controller only giving me 60% of that (6th tick on the pot)? Should N be higher? Should I have the throttle line at 100% in for all modes? Dale

dale.wilkins@gmail.com

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