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HelicopterMain Discussion › Castor Oil????
09-01-2003 02:18 PM  14 years agoPost 1
Derrill

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Worcester Ma

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Hi
my new tt50 manual says engine needs a little castor oil.Is castor like castor oil from a drug store?do hobby shops carry it?I run s+w 15 % $11 a gal. I dont wont to change fuels just add a little castor to each gallon.why would the manual say use castor?what properties does it have that syn doesn't?I wonder if this could have alot to do with TT's engine failures.
Thanks for your help.
Derrill

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09-01-2003 02:19 PM  14 years agoPost 2
James Yeram

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Oceanside, CA

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two words...............................
wildcat 30

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09-01-2003 02:20 PM  14 years agoPost 3
James Yeram

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Oceanside, CA

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buy a whole bunch and pay 17.50 a gallon shipped to a business address!!

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09-01-2003 03:35 PM  14 years agoPost 4
440GTX

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Calgary, Canada

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Castor

I have never run caster in my heli engines even thought the manual says to. I now run only run synethetic in my Helis and planks.
Castor is only good for a lean run. It will protect your engine a bit better than synthetic.
If you MUST you should be able to buy castor from your LHS

2 Words
CP 15% " Sorry James "

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09-01-2003 03:46 PM  14 years agoPost 5
FlyinBrian

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USA

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<<wildcat 30>>

That is one word and one number. Wildcat Thirty would be two words

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09-01-2003 03:58 PM  14 years agoPost 6
antivirus_e

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Enfield, London - England

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WildCat 15%

Derrill - I also have a tt50 in my raptor V2, run ur engine in with wildcat fuel, this should be fine for runing ur engine in(no need for extra castor oil). Use wildcat 30% if u can afford it but I use wildcat 15%, it gives more than enough power, and is much cheaper then wildcat 30%.

Gud luk with runing ur engine in.

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09-01-2003 04:04 PM  14 years agoPost 7
Ben-T-Spindle

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Central Illinois

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Castor oil is nasty stuff and I would never use it in a helicopter!

I have seen mufflers and especially Weston Pipes clogged so badly that the engine was loosing serious power.

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09-01-2003 04:27 PM  14 years agoPost 8
Derrill

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Worcester Ma

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thanks for the info
i've only got 4 tanks thru this engine,but ive seen alot of postings about tt engines and thought this may be the cause of some of the troubles.
I'll just take my chances with the syn. oil
Thanks guys
Derrill

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09-01-2003 04:33 PM  14 years agoPost 9
reddragon

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Brooklyn, N.Y.

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Howdy! I detest castor. It leaves a gummy serious mess everywhere. The old school guys swore by it and it removes heat much better than synthetics. But the end result is a brown mess inside and outside the engine that is too hard to clean. If you must use castor go with a castor oil-syntethic oil blend of fuel. Otherwise leave it alone.

Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!

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09-01-2003 04:54 PM  14 years agoPost 10
Derrill

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Worcester Ma

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My orig thought was just to add 3 or 4 oz castor to the fuel I use.s+w 15% has 18% syn oil so four oz would put me at 20% oil which is also what tt recommends.
Thanks for the help
Derrill

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09-01-2003 04:55 PM  14 years agoPost 11
FlyinBrian

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USA

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Derrill,

Dont worry about the postings, keep the motor rich for the first gallon and slowly lean it out over the next few gallons. Be paitent and dont push the motor hard till you have a few gallons thru it. If you give the motor a chance to break in you will not have problems.

From what I have expierenced with this motor it likes to have the low end rich, up to the point it wont idle very well. Set the motor to fly not to idle which I believe is one of the biggest mistakes people are making with them. It may be a pain to get to the takeoff area after starting it but it will last that way.

Different fuels have different effects on this problem (coolpower low viscosity oil's show less of a problem), just make sure its rich in a hover, after a few tanks .. rich in climbouts and rich in descents. If it does'nt idle well just use your third hand to pinch the fuel line while carrying it out

In all fairness this is'nt the only engine that shows this problem, quite a few of my os's do the same thing. The heli idles for 30 seconds and flies for 15 minutes, 30 seconds rich will not hurt the motor but 15 minutes of slightly lean will kill it.

If your motor shows the idle problem then do a search here for tt39 / tt50 idle mod to see how to fix it but wait till you get a few gallons through the motor first as it may change during the breakin process.

Most new ringed motors will kill a plug in less than a gallon, if you feel like your starting to fight the needle valves (or the idle gets really bad) at the one gallon point (or near it) replace the plug and see how it runs.

Take your time breaking it in and you will be rewarded later on....

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09-01-2003 06:22 PM  14 years agoPost 12
col47

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Fl.

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I have run 7 gallons of Power Master 15% thur my Cal 30. It starts as soon as I hit the starter switch. Never have at anytime have I had a problem. If the muffler gets some gunk on it, at maint. time I take a fine wire wheel and brush it off. If it works dont' screw with it.

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09-01-2003 11:42 PM  14 years agoPost 13
FLYHOBO123

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B'ham AL.

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Caster Oil

Caster OIl's main purpose these days is for rust prevetion. Castor acts like after run oil with out having to go thru all the trouble of putting it in your motor at the end of the day. Alot of the old Four Stroke guy's like it because it is very hard to get even after run oil down to there Bearings and get the left over fuel residue out.
I have been running Powermaster Fuel with PowerPack , which is still all senthetic, which is a rust inhibiter. I took my OS 91 C-spec Back plate off at the Field and showed the Guy's and they couldn't believe the motor was 8Months old with not a spec of rust.
One thing is for sure no matter what kind of fuel you run, like the other's are saying take time to break your motor in and don't try to get every last drop of power out of it by leaning it out and it will last way way longer..............
Don Wade

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09-02-2003 12:01 AM  14 years agoPost 14
mojojo

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Shrewsbury Massachusetts

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Hi Derrill, Your profile says you use CP 15% Just stick with that and don't beat on the engine untill it is broken in 18% wont hurt your engine unless you run it to Lean. Castor= bogus Mess on and in the engine.
Where do you fly out of, near Grafton?
We Fly a SAC Park in Shrewsbury
Good Luck

Joe Miller

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09-02-2003 01:42 AM  14 years agoPost 15
Derrill

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Worcester Ma

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jp
wow been at SAC for three years(been spotty last 6 months)cant believe we havent met. 5 of us were there today and yesterday as a matter of fact,sure ill run in to you.most sundays @ 6 pm during soccer season
Derrill

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09-02-2003 10:42 AM  14 years agoPost 16
mojojo

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Shrewsbury Massachusetts

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HI Derril,
I have been working at Sony Pictures on Long Island all summer,
So I have had just enough time to crash and rebuild a few times.
I fly with M1ke1 , Dave L, Stephan and Mike from Barry Communications. Ya Soccer $ucks. Just got an Excel Optical Tach,
so if you want to check your head speed I'll try to make it Sat and Sun.
Oh you could add Klotz Oil to the mix to raise the % of oil in the fuel
See ya

Joe Miller

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09-02-2003 01:45 PM  14 years agoPost 17
Steve Campbell

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Baton Rouge, LA

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What Don Wade said...

I have been adding ONE ounce of castor to each gallon of CP 15% for a couple of years nows, strictly for rust prevention. Yeah, I get a few brown flecks burned onto my mufflers. Big deal. I'll take rust-free bearings over a pretty engine exterior any day.

Howdy, Don. I believe we met when I was at Greg's little scale get-together up there in July.

Steve

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09-02-2003 03:12 PM  14 years agoPost 18
patternfly

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ChicagoLand

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Auger, AMEN to what you said!

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09-02-2003 06:29 PM  14 years agoPost 19
Glenn in Den

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Longmont, Colorado area

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DON'T DO IT!

I'm almost sure what contributed to the failure of my first TT39 was following their directions and adding castor oil to the fuel. I only added a few ounces per gallon. I did the math to bring my 20% up to 25%.

Then one day it went POP! They replaced it and I kept that junk FAR away.

Did that cause the failure? possibly . . . most people I mention it to say it did.

Now I give it to the kids when they're bad . . . . JUST KIDDING!

It is available at Hobbytown USA if you want to ruin your engine anyway.

Glenn.

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09-03-2003 01:31 AM  14 years agoPost 20
reddragon

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Brooklyn, N.Y.

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I still believe with todays fuels that castor is not even necessary. My cousin gave me one of his helis last year. He comes from the old fliers school where his father and uncles all used castor. He puts a few ounces in every gallon of fuel. When I took apart the heli to make sure everything was sound I was disgusted when I saw the inside of the muffler and the engine. Of course the outside was a brown mess but the inside was a bloody nightmare. I don't have sunny weather all year long in New York so you know for a few months even adding some kind of rust inhibitor the castor will turn into a gooey mess here. That is mess inside the crankcase, maybe inside the bearings and in the carb. I have seen magazines from England with horror pictures of what people did with castor in their airplane engines. One of the editors could not even turn over the piston with a starter much less by hand. When he took the back plate off there was a sludge that would rival The Blob. Now this is an EXTREME occurance caused no doubt by poor maintenance. I am sure many of you have added the extra castor for years with no ill effects. But at the cost of things in our hobby I can not break down my engine every few months to boil it in anti-frezee to keep things clean. It doesn't make much sense. I would have to replace seals and gaskets, plus not to mention the downtime. I agree with some that all you need is a good fuel and to run it a little rich for a while. No one has lost an engine due to premature wear for that.

Wayne - Fly it like you stole it! You're in good hands with Runryder!

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HelicopterMain Discussion › Castor Oil????
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