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HelicopterHIROBOHirobo SDX › SDX building question
06-06-2010 09:38 AM  7 years agoPost 1
big_swede

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Sweden

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Stabilizer blade assemby:

Do I think right that you have to eyeball the seesaw against the center hub to get it center and level, before you secure the stabilizer bar?
Se pic:

CCPM setup.
As this is my first 135 ccpm heli the stock futaba 50% swash mix whas way to much.
What do you run?
In the manual Hirobo prints out 32% on ail and elev on a futaba t10chp. Would that be a good start point for my Futaba T8Fg?
How much ail and elev pitch do you use?

THanks for the help..

JR Vibe Ito Edition, JR Nex E8, JR E550, TAGS01 FBL system, JR XG8 radio

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06-06-2010 04:07 PM  7 years agoPost 2
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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Don't eyeball! Measure exactly.

Once you get it perfectly aligned, mark the locations of the four set screws that secure the flybar (stabilizer stoppers and control arms shown on page 22 of manual). This can be done with a fine point Sharpie marking pen or paint on toothpick through the screw holes. After marking the locations, remove the flybar and file flat areas at all four locations for the screws to bear down on. They all need to be level and not very deep, maybe 5-6 strokes with a small file.
If you don't do this, you won't be ble to get the flybar off again or adjust it due to burrs from the set screws.

The stock setup per the manual was far too mild for me. My setup is for 3D. The swash in my Futaba 12Z is set to 43% for aileron and elevator, and -50% pitch. I'm using the swash ring as well to avoid conflicts in the corners. The paddle weights can be left out or just use either the brass or lead weights, not both.

I almost forgot, the stock ball locations on the B/H mixing arms are also too mild and don't give more than ±10° collective. Move both balls to the center positions on the arms. I get ±13 collective and almost 9° cyclic with these settings and without binding.

Hope this helps.

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06-06-2010 06:52 PM  7 years agoPost 3
big_swede

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Sweden

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Thank you, that helped alot.. This has been bugging me during the build..

In the review by James Wang in the Model Helicopter World, James recommends this setup. What do you think?

- outer hole on wash out mixer arm.
- middle hole on left side on bell hiller mixer (input)
- left hole on right side of bell/hiller mixer (output)
- middle hole on flybar carrier.
- lead weight in paddle (brass removed)

THanks again for helping..

Regards

Ps: I will try out the swashring function in the 8FG..

JR Vibe Ito Edition, JR Nex E8, JR E550, TAGS01 FBL system, JR XG8 radio

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06-07-2010 02:07 AM  7 years agoPost 4
rexxigpilot

rrProfessor

Florida

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That setup will work great. Only comment I have is try the paddles without any weight first. If it's too unstable for you (it was for me), add the lead weight. Once you put in the lead you may not be able to get it out in one piece. I use a squirt of PAM cooking spray on the inside of the paddle pocket to help remove the lead.

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06-07-2010 04:30 AM  7 years agoPost 5
big_swede

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Sweden

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I will try without the the weight , I have it like that now.

Thanks again..

JR Vibe Ito Edition, JR Nex E8, JR E550, TAGS01 FBL system, JR XG8 radio

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