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HelicopterHIROBOHirobo SDX › Slide block pins dropping out of guide block
06-06-2010 03:26 AM  7 years agoPost 1
Bouchah

rrKey Veteran

Willow Spring, N. Carolina USA

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I was at a FF today getting ready for my first flight of the day. Started the motor, started to spool it up and noticed the aileron and cyclic inputs were not correct. I shut it down. I found that the slide block at some point had dropped down far enough so that the pins had come out of the stationary block and turned so they were no longer in the slots designated for them to slide in. This seems to happen when I turn off the power, it allows the swash to drop far enough to allow the pins to come out. When the power is on, the full throw of the swash is not far enough to allow the pins to drop out.

I have not had a chance to really look over the bird to see what may be going on to allow this to happen, just wondering if anyone else has ran across this with their SDX or any other heli?

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06-06-2010 03:38 AM  7 years agoPost 2
rudyy

rrElite Veteran

E. Amherst, NY

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1) What is your maximum collective pitch value?

2) When you go to the maximum collective pitch, what is the distance between the slide block and center hub block?

fyi - mine is

1) 11.5 degree

2) 2.5-3.0mm

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06-06-2010 04:17 AM  7 years agoPost 3
TMoore

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Cookeville, TN

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This was a known early issue. Grind a small flat on each pin and CA the pins back in and the issue is solved.

My bad, I thought the pins actually came out of the block which I have seen happen a time or two.

I always just make sure the swash is up a little high on the shaft.

TM

Delayed Response Operator Not Engaged

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06-06-2010 04:18 AM  7 years agoPost 4
altima1779

rrKey Veteran

Toledo, oh u.s

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I had the same problem, never really figured out how to address it. I just made a habit of making sure it was in a safe position before i powered on the receiver.

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06-06-2010 06:14 AM  7 years agoPost 5
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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The propensity for a particular model to have its swash drop low on the mainshaft is mostly a function of how much (little) drag there is in the control system. The more free every component including the servos are, the more likely the swash is to settle with no power going to the servos.

Between flights, just lag each blade slightly in its grip. Upon power down, the grips will naturaly either want to hold their current position or will actually raise the swash. Feather the blades back out after you power up the radio for your next flight.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

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06-06-2010 07:02 AM  7 years agoPost 6
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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1) What is your maximum collective pitch value?
It doesn't matter what his max pitch value is. The swashplate, when unpowered, settles so that the pins are low enough to leave the notch they ride in.
2) When you go to the maximum collective pitch, what is the distance between the slide block and center hub block?
Again, doesn't matter. This problem is not occuring with the radio on. Only off.
This was a known early issue. Grind a small flat on each pin and CA the pins back in and the issue is solved.
This would only fix the issue if the pin were falling out of the washout base itself. They are actually falling out of the groove IN THE HUB because the swashplate falls well below flight pitch when powered off.
I just made a habit of making sure it was in a safe position before i powered on the receiver.
This is what I have been doing. Although I'm going to try this...
Between flights, just lag each blade slightly in its grip.
The fix is to get Hirobo to send us some longer pins. Mine are nowhere near the top of the notch they travel in even at full pitch. We could afford longer pins if Hirobo would like to fix the issue.

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06-06-2010 07:07 AM  7 years agoPost 7
TMoore

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Cookeville, TN

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.078" music wire is what the pins are made of. It would be an easy fix to make a couple of longer ones to try.

TM

Delayed Response Operator Not Engaged

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06-06-2010 07:19 AM  7 years agoPost 8
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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Alternatively, maybe a collar on the mainshaft to limit how low the swash can travel down due to gravity when unpowered?

I'm just saying, I don't think we have to live with this.

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06-06-2010 09:29 AM  7 years agoPost 9
Piyaphan1

rrApprentice

Bangkok, Thailand

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I had one of the pin came completely out of the sliding block during the flight. Luckily I heard the blade hit something so I landed immediately and saw the problem.

I used epoxy to glue the pin to the block and problem solved.

Piyaphan
TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C / TurbulenceD3 YS-SR3C-RR / Lepton

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06-06-2010 09:48 AM  7 years agoPost 10
Trevor G

rrApprentice

Brisbane, Australia

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The use of an additional main shaft collar sort of fixes the issue, but if you are using the maximum available 30 degree pitch range, the collar could bind the cyclic movement of the swash if it is right down over the collar at -15 degrees.
If you lengthen the two pins, you may find they bind at full collective +15.
You would have to measure it all up with your particular setup and see if either solution is suitable for you.
Easy to just check it before powering up.

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06-06-2010 01:48 PM  7 years agoPost 11
rudyy

rrElite Veteran

E. Amherst, NY

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Add this to your preflight checklist.

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06-06-2010 01:53 PM  7 years agoPost 12
Bouchah

rrKey Veteran

Willow Spring, N. Carolina USA

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Glad to see it is not something that I have done during the build. I think I may just add a collar under the swash to keep it from dropping or may try longer pins if I come across the correct size material.

Thanks again for everyones input.

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06-06-2010 06:00 PM  7 years agoPost 13
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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I used epoxy to glue the pin to the block and problem solved.
This is not related to the problem the OP has.
This would only fix the issue if the pin were falling out of the washout base itself. They are actually falling out of the groove IN THE HUB because the swashplate falls well below flight pitch when powered off.

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06-06-2010 07:23 PM  7 years agoPost 14
doorman

rrProfessor

Sherwood, Arkansas

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Pins...

I noticed the problem on my first one.... I pushed the pins up in their holder and put a little thin CA in and have had not had the problem again.... there is enough pin left in the base to do this... you only need to raise them about 2-3mm .....
The collar under the swash will cause problems with binding when at bottom pitch...

As Dr Ben said... there is so little drag in the system and with good digitals with power off the swash just settles right down to the top of the frames!!!!! (not a bad thing)!!!!!

Stan

AMA 2918-Team JR, Spin Blades, East Coast Scale Helicopter,Castle Creations

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06-06-2010 09:40 PM  7 years agoPost 15
Against Gravity

rrVeteran

Pottstown PA

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Another Solution

I think this might do the trick.

http://www.gforceheli.com/c291071_e.../p17522988.html

AG

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06-07-2010 02:53 AM  7 years agoPost 16
planefxr

rrNovice

San Diego, CA. USA

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Bouchah

I have the same problem. After complete assembly I could push the swash plate down to far. My radio was glitching when I turned the reciever on & sliding down. I centered all controls except throttle & re bound the radio to reciever. Now berfore turinig on the reciever I make shure the swashplate in in the correct position and then turn it on. This is not a fix just my procedure for this heli. Good luck.

David

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06-07-2010 02:56 AM  7 years agoPost 17
Aaron29

rrProfessor

USA

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yeah but it gets old doesn't it?

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06-07-2010 11:37 AM  7 years agoPost 18
Leif

rrElite Veteran

USA

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Any 10mm mast lock will work to keep the swash from dropping.

Personally I like the (0414-312) Hard Grip Mast Lock as a standard upgrade for the Evo/SDX.

This version grips the mast and does not damage the mast surface.

Leif

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07-04-2010 09:33 PM  7 years agoPost 19
rudyy

rrElite Veteran

E. Amherst, NY

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Any 10mm mast lock will work to keep the swash from dropping
So you have two mast locks on the main mast? Will that affect the swash plate movement at minimum -ve pitch?

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07-05-2010 01:12 PM  7 years agoPost 20
Leif

rrElite Veteran

USA

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No, I don't. I'm using the Evo swashplate, which has a smaller opening underneath.

The hard-grip lock is thicker, but smaller OD than the stock Evo/SDX lock ring, so it stops the Evo swash from moving too far down based on it's thickness.

I don't think it would stop the SDX swash if you used just one lock ring, but if you used two it would work. I haven't tried this combo yet since I'm running the SDX head on an Evo HPM.

The GForce upgrade is probably the best solution, as it is both thicker and wider than the Hirobo units. I just don't like the grub-screw-into-mainmast designs.

Leif

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HelicopterHIROBOHirobo SDX › Slide block pins dropping out of guide block
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