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HelicopterRadio - Servo - Gyro - Gov - Batt › DIY Temp Sensor for MultiGov
06-01-2010 10:01 PM  7 years agoPost 1
kcass518

rrVeteran

Manhasset, NY - USA

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Does anyone have any good ideas on how to work with these sensors? I thought they were a terrific idea until I soldered one up, Arctic Silvered it to my 50 Hyper, checked its function (everything okay), and installed the engine. Now it doesn't work.

So, I tried soldering a little heavier wire to each side thinking I could bend the wires arouns a little and give it a stronger mounting, but I broke the sensor in two, twice. So, I have one left, and I really don't want to botch it up.

Are there any secrets to getting a strong solder joint on the ends?

And, what's the best way to remove the Arctic Silver from the head and clean it out so I can start over?

Thanks

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06-02-2010 01:33 AM  7 years agoPost 2
philthewrench

rrApprentice

Westchester Co. NY

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I made up a few sensors in a few different ways because I was hoping to mount once and avoid some of the frequent failures I had read about.

The way I went with was to first make sure that when I soldered wire to the sensor to leave only the necessary amount of wire exposed to make a good joint, just a piece the length of the sensor. Then it took a few times for me to get a good looking joint without any solder wicking up into the wire. I feel this is really important to longevity of the sensor. If solder extends past the joint into the wire it makes a brittle spot that I feel is a likely point of failure.

Second when I shrink wrapped it I used a good quality ADHESIVE LINED piece of shrink tube. I don't really know how that effects thermal transfer to the sensor but the adhesive doesn't get to hard yet adds what I felt was a bit of both structure and insulation from vibration.

Been using it all season and so far so good, but I am also curious about what others have done.

Phil

... and now my impression of a lawn dart .......

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06-02-2010 11:29 PM  7 years agoPost 3
Thumpernator

rrKey Veteran

Senoia, Georgia, USA

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I used a very small alligator clip to hold the sensor while soldering. The clip was on the opposite side and not on the brittle sensor itself. The wire I used was just standard servo wire, using just the outer wires. Stripped the wire the same length as the sensor and pre-tinned the wire and the sensor.

I applied the wire to the edge of the soldering area on the sensor. This makes the assembly just thin enough to fit between the cooling fins. I used a Weller Soldering station with a very small tip. I also used another alligator clip to hold the tinned wire against the edge of the sensor. All it took to join them together was a quick touch with the iron. I used the same shrink wrap Phil used.

Don't know if there's a better way, but when I used the Artic Silver, I made sure it completely covered not only the 'assembly', but also covered some of the wiring. So far, so good.

To remove the Artic Silver, I think the only way to do it is to Dremmel it with a very small tool. I've not had to remove one, so I'm just speculating. That is some tough stuff. Of course, you could always replace the head.

Good luck.

Dave
I keep on thinking, but nothing's happening. Knuk, Knuk, Knuk

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06-03-2010 03:36 AM  7 years agoPost 4
kcass518

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Manhasset, NY - USA

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Thanks for the advice. I'll try again. I was going to ask Phil if he tinned the wire and/or the side of the sensor, but I think Dave answered that. I'll wait until I drop the engine the next time before I try again. It's a cool system, but I'm not sure it's worth what I'm going through to get it to work.

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