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01-01-2010 07:45 PM  7 years agoPost 1
hbk2owner

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indianapolis, Indiana

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How do you guys have your helis wired? When i wire mine up it looks like cr@p. if you could post pictures on how you have yours wired up that would be great!

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01-01-2010 09:35 PM  7 years agoPost 2
Gyronut

rrProfessor

Martinsville In.

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What kind of heli..??

Kings or 400's or just anything....

Rick

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01-01-2010 09:42 PM  7 years agoPost 3
hbk2owner

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indianapolis, Indiana

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anything. on my 400 it looks bad and i just had to re-wire my trex 450. so preaty much and heli.

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01-01-2010 09:53 PM  7 years agoPost 4
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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Buy a scale fuselage.

Seriously though all helis pretty much wire up the same. The motor and ESC need to be close to each other. The lipo is somewhere up front the gyro comes from the back. And the RX is movable but I like them near the back away from the Motor. Dont ask the RX placement I choose has to do more with old 72Mhhz radios and I still do it today. To eliminate interference seems that the 2.4ghz is not to susceptible to motor noise.

Now the trick is to have a couple short servo extensions this will allow you to run all your cyclic servos down one side all together. And you may need to ad an extension to your ESC so you can run the servo wire back with the cyclic servos. Then you can add a wire wrap and will leave you with one small tube of wires to the RX.

Thats half the battle right there. Now with the Gyro,RX, and tail servo at the back you just fold the slack up and tywrap it inside the frame hidden from sight.
That cleans up all the servo wires

Up front with the ESC just tywrap it underneath the battery tray with the Deans or ESC facing forward.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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01-01-2010 10:03 PM  7 years agoPost 5
hbk2owner

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indianapolis, Indiana

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This is how my wire are on my heli right mow. doesnt look good does it?

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01-01-2010 10:15 PM  7 years agoPost 6
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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No Really I am the club President!!!

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01-01-2010 10:24 PM  7 years agoPost 7
hbk2owner

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indianapolis, Indiana

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I like the paint job you have on your heli! i wish i could do it that neat. it looks like its a art to do wireing.

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01-01-2010 11:58 PM  7 years agoPost 8
Gregor99rrElite Veteran - Western Wa - My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

I agree with Tryan. Keep your ESC and motor up front and where possible seperate gyro wires from servo wires. I also like to use mesh covering where possible. But find that it added too much bulk on the smaller helis. Wires should wired for servicability where pratical. For instance, on the T500 its tempting to route the wires inside the frame between gaps in the boom block. But if they are routed outside the frame, the entire tail section can be easily removed, boom block and all.

Here is my HBK2. I've tried a number of different methods and never been happy with the result. I've tried to bundle all the servo wires together and keep the gyro wires seperate. The rudder servo needed a step down to 4.8v (I run 6v to the cyclics) so I hardwired one into the the servo's power lead. The wire was long and with the step down, it ended up being bulky. The wires and step down are coiled up and zip tied to the boom support. Also note gyro wire has some slack on it between where it leaves the gyro and where the first hard contact point is. This helps to reduce vibrations transmitted via the gyro wire.

Here is some excess servo wire. Best to just bundle this up as cleanly as possible and tie it down.

When running wire next to CF its good to add some protection to prevent chafing. This is a small piece of fuel tube cut down the middle. Also for the Xtreme frame owners, note the battery tray support made from a small rod and two ball links.

This is my Trex Pro. The single sided frames and frame mounted tail servo pack the wiring and Rx into a very cramped spot. I was able to use wire mesh on this install and routed the front servo wires on the outside of the frame. Also, just to make setup a tad easier, I label the servos and servo plugs.

Here you see the servo wires popping out of the frame, running past the motor and back into the frame where reaches the Rx. The wire is close to the motor and main gear, but the carefully placed the zip ties keep the wire bundle away from harm. Also notice the ESC wire running along the bottom section of the frame below the motor.

Here we see the ESC wire exiting the frame and connecting to a short servo extention which is plugged into the ESC. This is done because its a Castle ICE ESC and to set the govener, read the logs and update the firmware, you need to be able to ESC wire.

The Rx antenna wires are protected with small clear shrink tubing and hot glue at the base of each wire.

I opted to leave the wire mesh off of the Spartan Quark for this install. The wire mesh adds rigidity and you need some flex here. The wire tucks under the gyro plate /AR stand and routes into the frame, down to the Rx.

Here you can see the gyro wire on the inside of the frame past the tail drive gears. Its held safely away from the moving hears with zip ties. Below the main gear is the a female servo plug which connects to the BAT port on the ESC and serves as a remote bind port. Otherwise I'd need to take the bottom of the frame off to get the Rx.

Here is rudder servo on my T500. It needed a step down which gave me the perfect opportunity to setup the tail servo so that it can be disconnected at the frame. This makes it so that I can remove the entire tail assembly and quickly disconnect the tail servo. In the event of a crash, if the boom is broken off, the servo plug can be easily disconnected. This meant that the full length of the servo wire needed to be bundled between the servo and the frame. This was accomplished by coiling the servo wire and wrapping the coiled wire in mesh and shrink tube.

The Spartan wires are very long. Here you can see that they are coiled up and zip tied to the inside of the frame. The servo wires and ESC wire run on other side of the frame.

Under the main gear you can see the bundled gyro wire. Thankfully with the new Spartan (the Quark) they've shortened the wires considerably, making it a much easier install in small helis like the Pro.

Revolectrix Beta Team

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01-02-2010 12:50 AM  7 years agoPost 9
tryan02

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Canton, Missouri

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Hey aint no one can argue with greg when he starts showin pictures!!!

What happened with that one mesh greg the blue stripe looks terrible!!

No Really I am the club President!!!

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01-02-2010 01:14 AM  7 years agoPost 10
mgjones

rrApprentice

Seattle, WA - USA

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Damn...

Looks great Greg! I wish I had the time to be that meticulous about my wires.

You took a lot of pictures.. you must have spent a LOT of time on that wiring

Michael

First Heli - ESky BeltCP v2 2.4G
The addiction begins!

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01-02-2010 02:11 AM  7 years agoPost 11
Gregor99

rrElite Veteran

Western Wa

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What happened with that one mesh greg the blue stripe looks terrible!!
The weird thing about taking picture of mesh'd wires is that the flash lights up the wires inside the mesh. In ambient light, the insides aren't as visible and the whole thing looks darker.

On the T500 I wanted to try some mixed blue/black mesh. It looks much better in person, but I still prefer the black. The other problem with the blue/black mesh is that its a tad larger than it needs to be and it ends up kind of balloning out. I now use the smallest size mesh that will go over the servo connector for a more tailored fit. I get the mess at the local electronics store, which I'm quite thankful to have.
Looks great Greg!
Thanks!
you must have spent a LOT of time on that wiring
Not really. With heat shrink the wire mesh goes on pretty quickly. It takes longer to heat the soldering iron/heat gun than to actually cover it. The harder part is planning out how the wiring will be layed out. You can usually look at some forum pics to get some ideas. The Pro was particularly difficuly because its so tight in there. I ended using a few ideas I got from others plus a few of my own ideas.

Revolectrix Beta Team

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01-02-2010 02:43 PM  7 years agoPost 12
Heli_KV

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Ottawa, Canada

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Nice job on wiring Gregg!

That's how I wired 'Lil Be':

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01-02-2010 03:39 PM  7 years agoPost 13
Heli Bob

rrVeteran

Puerto Rico,Carolina

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Hey Guys nice 101 on wireing good info greg nice pics

Beam E4(md-500e),Gaui 200,T-Rex 500,E-flight MCX.

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01-03-2010 02:31 AM  7 years agoPost 14
racin06

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Indianapolis, Indiana

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Below are photos of my Mini Titan and EXI 500. I'm very picky about how my wires are organized, but that's just me. I've had a couple of fellow heli buddies comment on how "clean" the wiring looks on my Mini Titan. It's really nothing special. Just a little organization.

Photo #1 - Mini Titan Left Side: The MT has a nice tray under the battery holder in which to secure the ESC. The ESC throttle wire and UBEC wire are both routed along the bottom of the frame, which has four tabs in which to secure the wiring. The excess of the ESC throttle wire is folded and secured, along with the elevator servo wire, with a zip tie. The pitch servo wire is simply allowed to run freely into the frame slot. No securing of the motor wires is needed.

Photo #2 - Mini Titan Right Side: The ESC is mounted on the underside of the battery holder using velcro and a zip tie. The excess gyro and rudder servo wires are folded and secured, along with the aileron servo wire, to the bottom-rear of the frame with zip ties.

Photo #3 - EXI 500: Right Side: The excess elevator servo and and rudder servo wires are folded and secured to the frame with zip ties. The remote AR6200 antenna wire are also secured to the frame with a zip tie. No securing of the motor wires is needed

Photo #4 - EXI 500: Left Side: The ESC throttle wire is routed along the bottom portion of the frame and secured using zip ties. The excess gyro wire is folded and secured to the back of the frame using a zip tie.

Both the AR6100 in the MT and main antenna for the AR6200 in the EXI 500 are secured on the receiver trays using velcro.

The nice thing about the EXI 500 is that there is plenty of space inside of the frame in which to hide the majority of the servo wires. Of course, these servo wires still must be secured so that there is no interference with moving components...servo arms, main shaft, main gear, tail drive gear, etc.

Anyway, that's how I do it. I just pay special attentions to insure the wiring looks organized, while not interfering with moving components.

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01-03-2010 03:03 AM  7 years agoPost 15
Melnic

rrElite Veteran

Columbia, MD,USA

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There are lots of good posts above. I'll add that I go for function over form. I like to be able to pull stuff apart when I want to. I don't like wires to pull on the servos, they need to have strain relief but not so tight that the wires pull at the servo. That's not good. Also heed the posts above about chafing. I use an Xacto to debur the frame edges and often will add extra stuff like pictured above to stop the chaffing.

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01-03-2010 03:08 AM  7 years agoPost 16
racin06

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis, Indiana

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Speaking of chaffing (Thanks, Melnic), I forgot to mention that on the EXI 500, I used small pieces of electrical tape on the frame to prevent wires from rubbing against the sharp edges of the carbon material.

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01-04-2010 04:05 PM  7 years agoPost 17
J_Cunny

rrVeteran

Austin, Texas

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The one thing that I find frustrating when setting up the wiring, is the antenna leads. With the Futaba system (FAAST), you have the LONG leads that have to be at least 90 degrees opposing (Futaba tech says you can go down to 70). This kinda makes you have to be creative. I tend to follow the same path. All of mine look the same, with the recieiver in the hind end of the bird and ant. leads jutting out form the boom supports. I do envy the Spectrum guys as the recievers are more "freindly" with the shorter leads.

JC

I used to be normal, but then I started flying heli's....

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01-04-2010 11:11 PM  7 years agoPost 18
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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Jcunny if you look close the futaba and spektrum antennas are the same length. 1/4 wavelength.

Both spektrum and futaba are this length futaba uses a shielded wire for antennae and strips back the shielding at the right length.

Futaba gives you the wire length to allow you to move the antennae away from a possible interference or even out of the plane or heli.

Now the 90 degrees well I try to run that but that has to do with how you hold your TX anyway. The idea is no matter what orientation your aircraft is in one of the antenna's should get a good full signal. A RX antenna should be parallel to the TX antennae for full signal. So even the spektrum guy's could benefit by bending there antennae up.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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01-04-2010 11:36 PM  7 years agoPost 19
Gregor99

rrElite Veteran

Western Wa

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Not tracking with you there Tryan. The Spektrum antennae are short, the Futaba's are long cat wiskers. Simple as that.

Regarding the 90 business, the Spektrum Rx uses a dipole type which works best if both antenna are parallel to each other. If you had a dual reciver then the 90 degree thing would help.

I've got a little of the "show me state" in me so I set out to test this. Sure enough, I was able to get a longer range if the two Spektrum antenna were going straight out, and not at 90.

Revolectrix Beta Team

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01-04-2010 11:53 PM  7 years agoPost 20
tryan02

rrProfessor

Canton, Missouri

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Trust me greg they are the same size antenna they have to be for it to work.

If you look at those Cat whiskers only the tips are being used. Futaba uses a shielded coax and strips back the ground AKA shielding to the same length as your antennae.

Greg Are you sure its a dipole? I thought you used 2 antennae also?

A dipole is like TV rabbit ears. Only one antennae!!!!

A dipole would mean you only use one antennae with the center conducter out one side and the shield out the other and also would be horizontally polarized meaning your Receiver picks up signals best in only one position horizontal.

Futaba uses the individual monopole opposing antenaes at different angles 90 degrees apart for horizontal and vertical polarization.

But as for your test did you use a spectrum analyzer and set a 0DBM reference. Then try the different variations of transmitter positions.

Sorry for being a smartarse but hey, I Have done FCC Specs to qualify Television transmitters for broadcast.

No Really I am the club President!!!

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