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HelicopterAirstar Mongoose-Jetcopter-Evolution › head rubber flog out after 4 flights???
01-02-2010 09:00 PM  7 years agoPost 21
lrogers

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Mobile, Al

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We're in the same boat when it comes to posting and programing!

Larry Rogers - R/C Helicopter Pilot

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01-02-2010 09:50 PM  7 years agoPost 22
Outback Jack

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South Australia

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Ah! Thank god there's someone else, now I don't feel so bloody lonely.

Larry I've been to your gallery that many times since I've been dribbling and drooling over a Mongoose, isn't it high time that you stuck some pictures of yours in there???

Cheers,

Chris

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01-03-2010 03:25 AM  7 years agoPost 23
lrogers

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Mobile, Al

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I think you are right! One of the guys in my club is a very good photographer and Has some nice shots of RAMOTH (that's what I named my Mongoose) in flight. I'll add those as soon as I can.

Larry Rogers - R/C Helicopter Pilot

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01-03-2010 04:14 AM  7 years agoPost 24
lrogers

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Mobile, Al

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Okay Chris, next time you visit my gallery you'll find pics of the 'goose! I even left them at the top of the gallery so they would be the first things you see!

Larry Rogers - R/C Helicopter Pilot

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01-04-2010 04:12 AM  7 years agoPost 25
plantone

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Perth wa

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Hi Chris

Many thanks for the info you emailed to me prior to xmas, gave me a bit of reading, cheers.

Re. the head rubbers in your bird you can remove the plastic cups that slip into the head block & change it out for the double O-ring set up if you wish, i just did this with my second hand mongoose i bought.

Larry

I could not get the GV-1 to work at all wires back to front or not so i took it of & have just found out that you can select head or engine rpm i did not know this mine was set to head rpm should i change it to engine rpm ??? being that its not picking up a signal from the magnets on the main gear. The GV-1 wont work will it until it gets within a certain rpm range. This unit was sent by airstar but it does not have the correct connector you mentioned.

I currently have installed an align governor with the magnets mounted in the clutch bell & this seems to work well.

Mongoose
Srimok FAI
SAB Goblin
ENV Rave Next D 450

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01-04-2010 06:05 AM  7 years agoPost 26
Outback Jack

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South Australia

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Hi Wayne,

Yep! No worries about the stuff I sent you, I hope some of it was helpful.

Are you winning? You haven't mentioned the trouble you were having.

Re. the head rubbers in your bird you can remove the plastic cups that slip into the head block & change it out for the double O-ring set up if you wish, i just did this with my second hand mongoose i bought.
[/quote]

Yes, I may well do that, it's obviously an upgrade, but reading your text here, did you buy your new bird from Airstar? and it came with the single "O" ring insert and two "O" rings either side?

Was it a brand new machine or did it come from someone else?

If it was new, did you assemble it yourself?
What "O" ring insert does your older machine have, single or double?

Is the problem solved?
Watch your step assembling the bearing pack and dog bone in the blade grips, I saw a bit of crap inside the grip, wiped it out and must have left it too dry. Now it's all stuck solid inside the blade grip and don't want to come out.

Don't forget to change out the carby insulator blocks to Aluminium ones if they aren't already fitted. The plastic ones warp, then you get your motor leaning out and eventually it's toast.

Don't buy the insulators from QWW, the ZRC are the ones that you want.

Re-read this text and carefully answer all the questions, I for one really do want to know.
I hate playing guessing games or having to read between the lines.

It must be KIWI week, another gasser enthusiust down in Christchurch got onto me. It looks as though I've made myself a Predator buddy.

Cheers,

Chris

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01-04-2010 06:22 AM  7 years agoPost 27
Outback Jack

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South Australia

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RAMOTH

Good job Larry, and they're in the right spot.

I've also violated any copyright you may lay claim to, a copy of all RAMOTH shots now reside in my Mongoose folder.

It actually was interesting to see the size of the cartons it was delivered in.

Cheers,

Chris

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01-04-2010 07:00 AM  7 years agoPost 28
mikeflyz

rrApprentice

Westlake Village, CA

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Regarding your governor,

Are you getting any RPM indication when the engine is idling?

Do you have the correct gear ratio programmed on the GV1? (9.09)

Are you using one lead (RPM) to the receiver or both? (RPM and ON/OFF)

Mike
MA Fury Extreme, JetCopter SX

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01-04-2010 08:52 AM  7 years agoPost 29
plantone

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Perth wa

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Chris.

I have 2 mongoose's one is brand new but built here in NZ & i was the first to fly it, this is the latest model to come from Airstar & has the double O-ring set up in the head block. This machine also has a ring inside the head block so it allows the feathering spindle to pivot in the centre & takes the vertical loading when the model lifts into the air where as my other mongoose is the older vario type with single stack side frames, no removable servo plates & also has the white tail belt, this model came with the single O-ring set up so i changed it. The head does not have the centre pivot peice inside it so i made the head rubbers tighter by using shims to stop the rubbers from squashing at the top when flying. As they are then under load but unloaded at the bottom. ( hope that makes sense)

If the isolators are not overtightened i can't see them being too much of a problem chainsaws ect. get a harder life than these things & seem to run fine but i will keep it in mind anyway.

I still have a vibration issue i cant track down but have managed to stop the vertical bounce i had in my video, now it is just a slight motion blurr, it looks good on the camera but get home & put it on the telly & its very slightly blurry. The model fins are vibration free but the skids buzz slightly & better as the motor warms up but does not go away so i still have some work to do. I have balanced everything that rotates even the paddles. next will be the motor if i cant fix the vibs.

Mike
The align gov overspeeds when depitching so i would like to solve the issue with the GV-1 & keep trying, with re. to your question no i dont get any reading on the rpm display when the motor is running, ratio set to 9.09 & i am running rpm only lead not the on/off. what i did was set up a 3 way switch on the 14MZ 1 at 100% which tells the gov to turn of on the display & the other 2 positions i set head speeds of 1250 & 1400 on the display but it might not work as IROGERS mentioned there are 2 SG & i dont have the one with the plug in style set up i have the one with the 2 leads, 1 with a bullet connector & the other with a eye connector. I cut these of & put on spade terminals so it would connect to the motor properly & i also tried both polarities. But i dont know if i should have changed the setting from head rpm to engine rpm on the GV-1 i have only just found this???

Mongoose
Srimok FAI
SAB Goblin
ENV Rave Next D 450

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01-04-2010 11:10 AM  7 years agoPost 30
Outback Jack

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South Australia

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Wayne have a good read of this and try this setup with your Align govenor, it may well just fix your overspeeding problem, it's known as the "Malorie Mod":

https://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/...hlight=Malories

Cheers,

Chris

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01-04-2010 11:24 AM  7 years agoPost 31
lrogers

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Mobile, Al

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I have my Gv-1 set to a three switch as well top switch postion is set for 900 rpm (with will not let the unit activate, middle postion 1400 rpm and lower postion 1450 (I use the 1400 most of the time). Additionally, I have the unit set for throttle switch activatation. The stick must be at advanced about 20%, this allows the "hold switch" to over ride the governor since that curve is set below the 20% mark. This was a suggestion made by RAJA (rbort) and has worked fine. As I said early on, if you have the wrong unit, it will not work even of you switched connectors (this came from Chris at Stator Gator).

No worries about copyrights on the pics! I glad someone actually looks at them!

I got a flight in yesterday, but it was too cold for me and I called it after one flight. Ramoth didn't seem to mind the temperature at all and flew VERY well.

Larry Rogers - R/C Helicopter Pilot

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01-04-2010 03:46 PM  7 years agoPost 32
mikeflyz

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Westlake Village, CA

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The GV-1 will operate more reliably if you use the ON/OFF lead to the receiver. The problem with the single RPM lead operation is the way the GV-1 arms 15% over idle. This is meant to keep the governor OFF during engine start. Most throttle curves on the Mongoose are pretty low around the hover that it straddles the 15% arming position, unlike glow engines which have fairly high throttle positions.

Additionally, if the actual RPM exceeds the governor RPM before the throttle is beyond 15% (armed), the GV-1 will not engage to bring the RPM down. I have found this to be the most common culprit with the GV-1 when using a single RPM lead. The Malorie mod will also help get the throttle servo sufficiently above 15%, providing reliable governor operation

Double check the SwCd screen that the governor comes on (which really just arms) when advancing the throttle to high, stays on when in idle up throughout the throttle range and turns off in Throttle Hold.

If you're not getting an RPM indication on the GV-1 when idling (display shows 0 rpm), then the problem is the stator gator (the Vario version)

Mike
MA Fury Extreme, JetCopter SX

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HelicopterAirstar Mongoose-Jetcopter-Evolution › head rubber flog out after 4 flights???
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