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HelicopterRobbe Cuatro - Millennium - Nova - Dyna-X › Fututa Nova Electric conversion
11-21-2009 10:57 PM  7 years agoPost 1
Jason Lewis

rrApprentice

Whitby, Ontario,​Canada

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Just like to show everyone my electric conversion.
My goal was to use the clutch and as many stock parts as possible.
I used a dremel with metal cutting disc and a hand drill to make the mount. The only special tool that I used was a press to remove the motor shaft and install the new one.

The Scorpion 4035-500 motor shaft was removed and replaced with one from a Hacker A60L that I shortened on the none threaded end and ground flat spots to match the Scorpions. This allowed the stock clutch to bolt up using the 8mm collet(used 2 washers under the collet to clear the motor bolts). Just hold the motor with a strap wrench. The prop nut I used was from a YS61, anything in a pinch!

The rest is aluminum angle and plate cut and drilled to fit. Existing holes where used, no holes where made in the frame.

I used 4S and 6S 5000mah Air Thunder bats in series as I had some left over from other projects. The 6s is on a wooden plate where the fuel tank goes and the 4s is in the front, attached with velcro to the inside of the frame. I had to remove a couple of the plastic spacers to make it fit. Using 5s bats on either side might be easier! The C of G did work out good with this set up though.

RPM is 1730, weight is 12.5lbs and it fly's nice and stable with good power. Could benifit from some new Hyperions, and a set of 720's to bring the disk loading down a bit. Getting about 9min of sport flight with these old bats. I have about 70 flights and it has been perfectly reliable. The smooth spool up with the clutch is great.

I am using 690's with 22 tooth pinion, jazz 10-32-55.

Enjoy, Jason

I am adding a step by step on swapping the motor shaft due to some requests. It is not hard at all, have no fear!

I should add that this was inspired by Peter Wales, thanks Peter. He used a Actro motor and drilled and tapped the end, worked great. Only problem is that I needed a method that did not require machine work!

Thanks also to Mr Mel for his excellent calculator, this stuff would not be possible with out it.

Here it goes.

-Remove clip and washer from scorpion shaft.
-Slide motor apart.
-measure the distance from the inside of the can to the c-clip grove
-I can not remember if there is a washer between the can and bearing, if there is just reinstall during reassembly
-Remove 2 set screws from motor can used to retain shaft.
Shaft is a light press fit in can. Warm the can a bit and press it out. I used a large press at work, but they say that even a drill press will work as it is not that tight.
-Now the spare shaft from a Hacker A60L is prepared.
-Shorten the non threaded end to the same lenght as the scorpion, measured from the c-clip grove. A little longer is OK, it is not critical, shorter would be a problem though!
-Grind or file a smooth the edge at a 45 degree angle, to make instalation easier.
-Set screw flats are now ground on to the Hacker shaft. They look to be 90 degrees, but are not! Use the scorpion shaft as a example.
-The Hacker shaft can now be pressed into the can. Again warm the can, also support the back side with a block of wood with a hole drilled in it just bigger that the shaft. This will prevent deforming the can end. Getting it pressed in the correct amount is a bit of trial and error (use the measurment you took earlier to get close), test fit the motor and install washer and clip from Hacker shaft(supplied with spare shaft). Mine is set up with no end play.
-At this point you basicaly have the same shaft on your Scorpion as an 8mm glow motor shaft.
-I added to the motor shaft 2 washers approx 8mm ID from the parts bin to give clearance for the motor mount (see pic)
-Now add the 8mm engine collet, fan hub(no fan ) ect., just like a glow motor installation, no need for the hex adapter either. I do use the piece that the adapter bolts to though.(see pics again)
-When tightening the prop nut hold the motor can with a strap wrench to get it tight.

Hope this helps, Jason

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11-22-2009 01:24 AM  7 years agoPost 2
terma-nator

rrNovice

Fort Lauderdale, FL

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This is great! I've been looking for a solution to my problems with using my 4 Robbe heli's in Brazil.

The nitro fuel is very expensive down there.

I see that the motor and esc that you used are also very expensive (about $400.00 for both). Are there any suggestions about going with something that hobby-king might have in stock?

I'm trying to keep the expense down.

Thanks....

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11-22-2009 01:50 AM  7 years agoPost 3
Jason Lewis

rrApprentice

Whitby, Ontario,​Canada

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Hello Terna-nator

Tower Hobbies has the speed controller on sale for $199. I own several of these and the are very reliable and easy to set up, not worth it for me to try something else to save a few bucks and risk a machine. You could mount the speed controller with velcro and easily switch it between machines to save money.

The Scorpion has also proved to be very good, just oil the bearings every 5 flights with thier oiling kit and it will be fine. If you find something cheaper than the Scorpion (good luck!) with 500kv in this size class you are on your own with it. I have had very good service from the Scorpion dealer and there motor is easy to change the shaft on which is important for me.

I am sure that there are other ways to do this, but this is what has worked for me.

Thanks, Jason

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11-22-2009 02:44 AM  7 years agoPost 4
Dr.Ben

rrMaster

Richmond, VA, USA

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IMO, the speed control is no place to pinch pennies. A cheap, knock off "Ginsu" controller may seem like a bargain until it "pops" in the wrong place and costs you $500 in repair parts. I know of no other choice for motors in this size range that offer the price versus quality ratio of the Scorpions. The 4035-500 is comfortably under $175.

Ben Minor

Team Synergy Team Futaba Team Kontronik USA
Progressive RC

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11-23-2009 05:23 AM  7 years agoPost 5
terma-nator

rrNovice

Fort Lauderdale, FL

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That jazz is $175.00 and it's only a 55amp speed controller.

Castle Creations has 80 amp speed controllers for less. Wouldn't that make more sense for me to use?

BTW, just about all the stuff made for RC is made in china, and the us suppliers mark things up 200-300% before the hobby shops even get them.
So if I can get the same thing direct from HK for less, I will "pinch pennies"

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11-23-2009 12:34 PM  7 years agoPost 6
Jason Lewis

rrApprentice

Whitby, Ontario,​Canada

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The Kontroniks are very conservatively rated. On 10s the current draw is low. I estimate 20-25 amps in the hover, will confirm when my eagletree arrives. I do full power climb outs and my controlller comes down at ambient temps. Guys have been using these for years on 10s, even up to 800 blades. These controller are so easy to set up it is not funny. They hold rpm great. There is nothing out there the same as Kontronik, many are trying! Do not let the amp rating fool you, it is published by the manfacturer, comparing one to another can be like apples and oranges.

I like to go to the field, plug in and have everything work, I do not have the time to tinker, so I use products that help with that, that is why I went all electric!

All that said, it is your money, do what you want with it

By the why where is the jazz for $175 ?

Jason

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11-23-2009 10:25 PM  7 years agoPost 7
terma-nator

rrNovice

Fort Lauderdale, FL

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Tower has it for $175.00

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12-02-2009 05:49 PM  7 years agoPost 8
Jason Lewis

rrApprentice

Whitby, Ontario,​Canada

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Original post edited to add details of motor shaft swap.

Jason

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09-10-2011 03:34 PM  6 years agoPost 9
Jason Lewis

rrApprentice

Whitby, Ontario,​Canada

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Bump for those interested!

Thanks, Jason

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09-10-2011 05:15 PM  6 years agoPost 10
mopardan

rrApprentice

Wantagh N.Y. USA

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Jason

Repost pictures.

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10-26-2011 07:18 PM  6 years agoPost 11
Jason Lewis

rrApprentice

Whitby, Ontario,​Canada

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Sorry for the delay getting the pics back up guys.

For an update the conversion worked great with 690 blades in a pod and boom machine and sport flying.

I built another for my Futura Nova in an Alouette geared down for 800 blades. It flew very well, but I keep having belt skipping problems on spool up. In an effort to eliminate this I added a belt tensioner and also had to run it quite tight to eliminate the skipping. This resulted in breaking the Hacker shaft at the c-clip grove from the side load during a test run. The clutch bell was also hot after flight even after switching to the heavy gasser clutch, indicating slippage.

I plan to redo the conversion this winter using direct drive from a Joker pinion/pulley. This will be simpler (keep the stock scorpion 8mm shaft) and as it can be lower on the shaft than the clutch pulley, should reduce the leverage on the shaft, preventing breakage. I may also try a shorter belt, which should help as well. The shorter belt also opens up the possibility of mounting the motor aft of the large pulley, and allowing the batteries to be mounted in the space where the motor once lived.

Jason

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HelicopterRobbe Cuatro - Millennium - Nova - Dyna-X › Fututa Nova Electric conversion
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