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HelicopterAlignT-REX 700N › Known Issues
11-17-2009 06:45 AM  8 years agoPost 1
Terrabit

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA - USA

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I've been trying to decide which 90 to build for a while now. I was pretty well set on an eAurora or e-something but decided that I should give nitro its due consideration as well. It's been about three years since a rather disappointing run with a T600N and I think I might be ready to give it another try. So at this point I'm 99% shure I want to build a T700N.

Now, I know there are some issues with the stock kits. I've read tons of posts about the old main gears, the plastic bearing blocks, the stock ball links aren't so hot, frothy fuel tanks, and I've owned enough Align products to know that the tails can get sloppy pretty quick. But is there anything else that I should be aware of? Is there anything else I should add to the first order?

This is what I have in mind for an initial order:

T700NPro Super Combo
OS Max .91HZ (non-pumped)
2ea #8 OS Glow Plugs
Hatori OS 91HZ pipe
Fuel Magnet
AR 7100R rx
TP 2s 3300mah Prolite
Quick UK link and ball set
Quick UK clutch
Quick UK tail
Extra silicon tubing
Which bearing blocks?

I plan on converting to flybarless eventually so I'll use the stock gyro until then. In fact, I'll probably just use all the stock electronics for now unless someone convinces me that I shouldn't.

Anything else?

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11-17-2009 06:50 AM  8 years agoPost 2
Anthony.L

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA

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Good shopping list, everything on there is good choices.

I would look at getting a slightly larger RX lipo pack. The 3300 is only going to last you maybe 5-6 flights. I run a 4200mah pack and can fly a whole gallon without charging. Plus when you go flybarless the amp draw is even high and you might get 4-5 flights.

The metal clutch bearing block I think is a must. Go with whichever you like best, as long as it's metal it will do the job. I'm personally running the Four Axis Design block.

Don't get too sucked in by all the talk of faulty parts in the 700 kit. Build it and fly, you will quickly see most people are making a stink about nothing.

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11-17-2009 07:04 AM  8 years agoPost 3
Terrabit

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Seattle, WA - USA

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Hey thanks Anthony. What do you think, 5000mah too much? We should talk. Have we met ... maybe down at Dale's or some place?

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11-17-2009 07:34 AM  8 years agoPost 4
Anthony.L

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA

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I would recommend anywhere from 4200-5000mah. 5000 is not too much, only downside is more weight. That's why I go with something like a Thunder Power Pro Lite or a Flight Power Evo Lite. Saves weight since you don't need the high C rating for the RX pack.

I'm sure we have crossed paths at one point or another. I've been at Dale's many times, and all the local fun flies during the summer.

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11-17-2009 09:01 AM  8 years agoPost 5
JetFire

rrKey Veteran

The Golden STATE

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Don't get too sucked in by all the talk of faulty parts in the 700 kit. Build it and fly, you will quickly see most people are making a stink about nothing.
+1. Also... In regards to the Rx battery, I always try to keep it somewhat small and have spares because if you bash the heli good.. its easier to swallow loosing a battery that you didn't spend a fortune on. But again, thats just me. 'Anthony' has a good point about the ampdraw on a flybarless system in which I know nothing about but its aparent that you have to plan for that as well when choosing a battery.

Oh.. and why the Hatori pipe? Definately a good pipe but I would of chosen the MP6 if I could do it over again for its simplicity. I was just never a big fan of flange pipes.

my2cents


Trex700N Pro
DX8-2.4
Spartan/BL9088

-The ONLY way you fail is when you quit.-

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11-17-2009 09:57 AM  8 years agoPost 6
p00rboi

rrNovice

Rockville, VA-USA

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A very nice shopping list indeed, however unless you just want to spend the extra money I wouldn't worry about the upgrades it flies great bone stock. I have one of the first production kits to hit US soil and am just now getting around to replacing the bearings in my plastic clutch stack bearing block. I replaced a few of the ball links as needed due to crashes. I haven't noticed any unusual slop developing in the tail and it holds rock solid with the Spartan gyro. What ever you decide I think you will be pleased with this heli.

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11-17-2009 01:15 PM  8 years agoPost 7
Avropilot

rrVeteran

Murfreesboro,​Tennessee

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You might give this pipe a look.Here A few of us are running them at our field with great success. None of those rubber o-rings to deal with and gobs of power. It's a tuned pipe so tuning is critical but when it's on the pipe it runs amazingly well and powerful.

Waiting for parts

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11-17-2009 02:18 PM  8 years agoPost 8
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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may want to buy an aftermarket frame bolt kit. The stock shouldered bolts can get jammed in the frame and be a real bear to get out.

http://lironheliproducts.com

or from Ron Lund

http://ronlund.com/T-rex%20news.htm

personally I bought a set from helidirect.

http://www.helidirect.com/metal-was...700-p-11356.hdx

then ground off the rear main bearing block bolts to clear the linkage arms

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11-17-2009 02:55 PM  8 years agoPost 9
GScott

rrElite Veteran

Lewis Center, OH

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You can save yourself a few bucks by getting the Align 91H instead of the OS. The Hobby Services warranty support has gone downhill so IMHO it's not longer worth the extra $$ for the OS. You can also get a great package deal at GrandRC with the Align 91H and the Align pipe. Whatever you do don't listen to the "just fly it stock" crowd. Align's QC is really a crapshoot. Even if you get lucky and don't pop a link in flight the stock links are good for a few gallons before they get really sloppy. Same with the clutch. Sure you might get lucky with the stock one but every 700 at our field broke clutches before the QuickUK version was available.

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11-17-2009 09:29 PM  8 years agoPost 10
THX1138

rrElite Veteran

Camp Bondsteel,​Kosovo

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I did go ahead and order the QUK link and ball set. I plan to get the clutch in the not so distant future.

Do I really need to replace the screws and washers? With what little I have done with the air frame so far, the factory screws seem ok.

Lou

Just give me five dudes and two flashbangs...

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11-17-2009 10:02 PM  8 years agoPost 11
Blink 182

rrApprentice

California

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No you do not, as long as you dont use threadlocker on the frames screws and use the Align drivers you should be fine,

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11-17-2009 11:46 PM  8 years agoPost 12
Terrabit

rrElite Veteran

Seattle, WA - USA

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I just took another financial kick in the balls. So my T700 build is on hold again. Hopefully I can get'ur done by next season.

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11-18-2009 01:38 AM  8 years agoPost 13
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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I just took another financial kick in the balls
Well that sucks -

but kind of made me think of this -->

Watch at YouTube

(great movie)

and look at what I stumbled across.
They make Syphlide's and this

Watch at YouTube

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11-18-2009 01:48 AM  8 years agoPost 14
basmntdweller

rrKey Veteran

Indianapolis IN

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I bought my 700 kit at IRCHA this year. I don't know if they have done any upgrades to the kit or not but I saw nothing wrong with the bolts and washers on the frames. I'm keeping an eye on the links but they are still good at this point. I really like this heli, so much so that I have only flown one of my Fury Extremes since flying this 700. I only flew it once just to be sure I was giving the 700 fair comparison. I prefer the 700 FWIW!

Matt


Stupid people have no idea how stupid they are!!!

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11-18-2009 01:52 AM  8 years agoPost 15
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

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I have personally seen the frame bolts so jammed that the only way to get them out is with a Dremel cut-off wheel. I know many others have had similar experiences including Ron Lund who wrote about his experiences in one of his email newsletters. worth $25 to me just to make sure that I don't ever have to run into that.

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11-18-2009 02:05 AM  8 years agoPost 16
jschenck

rrProfessor

La Vista, NE.

My Posts: All  Forum  Topic

Found it!

Ron Lund's 7th Newletter

With framebolt experience

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